gutting my sterio system out

[lonnie]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

even when they scuff...

Oh yeah! Ever notice that when you play a scuffed cd in the car radio you get the jumps or the repeating, but if you take the same cd and play it in the computer those jumps and repeats are gone, well all you have to do is burn the cd to a cdr and whala cheap fix. Now I will tell you that if these are store bought cds it will help a great deal to buff first then burn. Also Nero makes a program that will show the actual wave pattern of the song and you could manually go in and cut it out, this however takes a bit of time depending on how much the song skips. So you got a few options, and if all else fails you can burn it from Limewire. Side note: this will not work if it is a burnt cd because a burnt cd dosen't have the bumps pressed into it like a regular cd, hence the reason you can't buff a burnt cd like you can a store bought one.

[mikegett]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

You know, theres a lot of mumbo jumbo here, and Im having a hard time swallowing it.

First off you say:



The simple FACT is this does NOT happen in any car audio amplifier. The power supplies are run on DC. The signal inputed into the amplifier for amplification is in AC. The end result is an amplified AC signal. There is NO DC-AC-DC in it. Unless Ive totally overlooked something?



What filtering is done? Thats all extras! Thats what Im talking about. Filtering such as EQing and crossovers. Thats simply extras. The power is still power. An amplifier does not color the sound to a noticeable level without extras such as filters, crossovers, bass boost...



Maybe we are arguing a moot here... But the input signal is AC. It never was DC... The power supply is not the signal... The RCA input is the signal. The output signal is simply the amplified input. Which was never DC, ever.



If Im not mistaken, the amps are made to scope the same on the O Scope. Giving way to the fact power is power. When no filters, whether user adjustable or built in can interfere, power is power.

I hope nobody takes what I have said out of context. I do not tell people to run out and buy a Boss Audio amp simply because power is power. I tell people to buy whats in their price range that supplies the power they need with the features they want.

I know there are plenty of features that aide us and help tone our systems.

Im no stranger to the higher end items also, so Ive tried some of the better stuff out there. For instance I just came off a McIntosh MX4000/MDA4000. I used an Eclipse EA4000 which powered my Rainbow prfoi fronts and my 8" Neo in a 6th order. Surely when putting together such a system the Eclipse is way out of place. But given the amount of money in hand, the features and its power output it did just fine, even for a cheaper amp...

Thats the point.

Ryan. No offence, but go to school. Then lecture me. It is my job. The purpose of a dc, ac, to dc conversion is simple. Concider you are amping your ac signal (less than one volt or a miliamp) to achieve 20 amps. In order to achieve the 20 amps, a 12 volt rail WILL NOT allow the ac signal to be multiplied enough to reach your goal. Your rail will fry in the process. This is why your dc power is converted to ac 100 volt. You can then raise the input of the rail to mulitply the ac source signal. Once the signal has been raised, the power is then changed back to a dc signal. Your power supply is the heart of your amplification. As for frequency, yes it will have a affect on your amp and wattage produced. Your amp will ONLY pull the power your speaker requires. This is why your amp shows 0 volts with no speakers on it. Your speaker does one job. It produces resistance. This increases amperage and in turn more watts are produced. Low frequencies pull more wattage than higher frequencies. Think of your sub and your tweeter. This is what your designers must overcome. If you simply ran your ac signal accross a rail and increased the voltage, then the result would be very poor over a large scale. One speaker will be pulling more efficiently than another. This will result in a spectrum showing very high peaks in certain areas. Not due to the frequecy, but the speaker producing it. You have to realize that watts may be watts. But a audio system is NOT dependant on the watts. It is dependant on many factors. The source signal and its processing. The power supply to amplify the source. And the speaker, think of it as a big resistor, that tells the amp how much to pull. The developer of the amp must take this into concideration. The process to smooth this out is normaly done with small caps and diodes. Newer amps use dsp signal processors and microprocessor to achieve the same results. This is why I say that the article is misleading. It gives the author some facts. Just not the whole fact. you cannot simply say power is power. Because the listner is not just dependant upon the power. They are dependant upon many factors in the equation. He then circumvents the technology with eq's. Well, I hate to break it to you. That is a basic example of what is happening in the amp. In essance, the manufacturer is placing a eq inside to compensate for the difference in the signal pulled by the speakers. If you have questions about this, then just email me. I appologize to the author of the post for the hijack. I just do not like to see missleading information being posted. This is how assumptions get spread that inturn are believed to be fact. It is even more powerfull when dealing with companies. The consumer wants to believe that everything being sold or pitched to the consumer is simply a gimick. This makes it much easier to believe what appears to be correct.

[mikegett]

Originally Posted by lonnie

Oh yeah! Ever notice that when you play a scuffed cd in the car radio you get the jumps or the repeating, but if you take the same cd and play it in the computer those jumps and repeats are gone, well all you have to do is burn the cd to a cdr and whala cheap fix. Now I will tell you that if these are store bought cds it will help a great deal to buff first then burn. Also Nero makes a program that will show the actual wave pattern of the song and you could manually go in and cut it out, this however takes a bit of time depending on how much the song skips. So you got a few options, and if all else fails you can burn it from Limewire. Side note: this will not work if it is a burnt cd because a burnt cd dosen't have the bumps pressed into it like a regular cd, hence the reason you can't buff a burnt cd like you can a store bought one.

Good suggestion. Just remember to set your cd or dvd drive to its slowest read setting. Or at least around 4x. This will help to get a better, skip free, copy.

[tw0123]

i have a clarion deck, infinity all around, 3 audiobahn amps and 2 cerwin vega dvc 12's... i get a headache if i run it past 18 for more than 10 minutes... its great!!!