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Old 12-22-2009, 09:21 AM   #1
2000aleroff
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Reinstalling the rocker arms

I am reinstalling the rocker arms and i know there is a specific way to do it right, something to do with them being lined up. can someone explain more in depth?
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:53 AM   #2
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Its real simple.

They are keyed.

Lightly tighten them.

Before you torque to the correct spec, turn the motor over so the rod is loose and can be spun by hand. Then torque them down- one at a time.

I THINK its 62 In lbs and then 30 Degrees past that- confirm the torque first.

62 In-Lbs = 5.2 Ft-Lbs
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:12 AM   #3
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i just screwed mine down, and then did 10ftlbs... runs fine
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:31 AM   #4
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Torque specs are there for a reason.
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:01 AM   #5
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Torque specs are there for a reason.

haynes manual said 10, updated, it was a TSB, @ 5.5 they were coming undone

use RED threadlock on them too, i can't get you the TSB, i have the last of 546 TSB's here, for the entire line of cars... but it's on alldata..

screw down, turn over til loose, remove, apply red threadlock, tourque to 10ftlbs, DO NOT GO ANY FARTHER
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Old 12-22-2009, 02:56 PM   #6
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I have had no problem just running them down. My both my mechanic neighbors do the exact same on gms and have never had a problem.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:57 PM   #7
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okay but there isnt any specific direction they have to be seated on the head or anything?
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:00 PM   #8
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okay but there isnt any specific direction they have to be seated on the head or anything?

that's the pushrods? longer is Exhaust, and shorter is intake... i think
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:02 PM   #9
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okay if its just the push rods i already made sure they were all in right. okay thanks guys.
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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okay if its just the push rods i already made sure they were all in right. okay thanks guys.

sweet, let us know how she runs, LIMG job i suppose?
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:18 PM   #11
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i dont think nate should be giving advise on this subject after his month long LIMG swap lol
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:44 AM   #12
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i dont think nate should be giving advise on this subject after his month long LIMG swap lol

huh? the lifters were gummed up! so they didin't compress, and kept the valves open slightly, porsing no compression!.....i win
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:36 AM   #13
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huh? the lifters were gummed up! so they didin't compress, and kept the valves open slightly, porsing no compression!.....i win

I dont think your Alero wins or likes you.

Just my assumption here.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:11 AM   #14
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I dont think your Alero wins or likes you.

Just my assumption here.

my alero loves me..... 34K miles for 300$? i've put 34K on it, and no breakdowns
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:25 AM   #15
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my alero loves me..... 34K miles for 300$? i've put 34K on it, and no breakdowns

And how much $ in repairs?

How much time in repairs?

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Old 12-23-2009, 12:25 PM   #16
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ya im going to put everything back together today.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:42 PM   #17
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And how much $ in repairs?

How much time in repairs?


apparently more now,

checked coolant today, bone dry, took uppoer rad hose off, completely dry.... ugh
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
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apparently more now,

checked coolant today, bone dry, took uppoer rad hose off, completely dry.... ugh

i would have burned the car to the ground long before this point.

...but not all of us can have as much automotive downtime as you....
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:38 PM   #19
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okay just put the sealent on and the LIM, got the belt back together and all thats left is the fuel rail/injectors and the UIM. almost done =)
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:55 PM   #20
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degrees, torque poundage....are there special tools required for a head replacement or LIMG fix to complete these jobs or is it more obvious when you have it all open and looking at it?
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