LIMG Troubles - Page 2

Nate's Alero · 01-19-2010, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gr1m

nate when you put your pushrods in the wrong order you called me saying there was smoke coming out of the TB when you cranked it, so how are you going to say its just plugs and wires?

for your information, i NEVER put my rods in the incorrect order, my Lifters were gummed, not bleeding out, and holing the valves

OOOH BURN

2000aleroff · 01-19-2010, 06:12 PM

i have this same problem, i thought it was bad gas in the tank but this is the exact same problem. i try to start it up and it just backfires and smoke starts comming out everywhere if i give it gas. then it sputters and dies. im going to check my wires but i double check them everytime and i doubt thats the problem.

2000aleroff · 01-19-2010, 06:14 PM

o and i forgot to say, no its not the pushrods because im 100% sure they're in right.

a.graham52 · 01-19-2010, 08:04 PM

either of you check codes? is it possible the camshaft postion sensor is toasted?

A57 · 01-19-2010, 08:33 PM

OK i can only say did you plug the knock sensor in, also did you check for spark at each plug? ( just covering the basic stuff.)
did you plug in the Ignition module in all the way?

check the fuel pump turning on?
i have a question way did you turn the motor over?
when I did the LIMG didnt touch anything but the lifter rockers to pull the rods..
check fuel presser at the rails?

Again just covering a few things to check and maybe find the one thing you missed...
hope this helps.

Redog · 01-20-2010, 04:26 AM

I can't believe nobody asked this question.

How did you get the ICM off without removing the coil packs? Sorry that's not possible since the bolts that hold on the ICM are UNDER the coil packs.

Since you said you didn't remove the wires from the coils, and you HAD TO remove the coils, did you put the coils back in the right place?

Nate's Alero · 01-20-2010, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redog

I can't believe nobody asked this question.

How did you get the ICM off without removing the coil packs? Sorry that's not possible since the bolts that hold on the ICM are UNDER the coil packs.

Since you said you didn't remove the wires from the coils, and you HAD TO remove the coils, did you put the coils back in the right place?

i think he meant the entire assembly, unless i'm a skimmer and he took OFF the ICM for testing, then yes, the bolts that hold down the ICM are UNDER the coil packs, and the ICM CANNOT be tested unless it is off that ground plate

alerored04 · 01-20-2010, 01:47 PM

Are all three of the connectors hooked up to the coil packs? The first time I did one of these I missed a connector and the car misfired horribly.

a.graham52 · 01-20-2010, 02:52 PM

i think we need to stop with the bs and the basics should be covered:

fuel?
spark?
compression?

CHECK THEM, dont say you know.

Nate's Alero · 01-20-2010, 05:59 PM

i think we made him mad, becuase we were right, and he was shown up... lol

greg_gorrell · 01-20-2010, 08:57 PM

Okay, thanks for the help guys. I finally figured out the problem, which was just bad plugs, I replaced them and the wires and she fired up nicely. Now I have a new problem tho. The battery won't charge. I checked all the wiring, everything is fine there. The battery was checked, and that is fine. I took the alternator off and took it to Auto Zone where they checked it and said it was bad, so I bought a new one. I fire it up and the check engine light, and the battery light both stay on. Its just running off the battery. I have check the voltage of the battery and when not running I get 11.49 volts off of it, which is alright since I drove it home after recharging it. While running, the voltage is 11.29 volts. Anyone know what else could be causing this?

greg_gorrell · 01-20-2010, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nate's Alero

i think we made him mad, becuase we were right, and he was shown up... lol

Think again, though I am kinda disappointed I didnt check the plugs right off the bat. But its one thing after the other.

Nate's Alero · 01-20-2010, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg_gorrell

Okay, thanks for the help guys. I finally figured out the problem, which was just bad plugs, I replaced them and the wires and she fired up nicely. Now I have a new problem tho. The battery won't charge. I checked all the wiring, everything is fine there. The battery was checked, and that is fine. I took the alternator off and took it to Auto Zone where they checked it and said it was bad, so I bought a new one. I fire it up and the check engine light, and the battery light both stay on. Its just running off the battery. I have check the voltage of the battery and when not running I get 11.49 volts off of it, which is alright since I drove it home after recharging it. While running, the voltage is 11.29 volts. Anyone know what else could be causing this?

sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, check the cable for the main, and possibly just run a new one, they can deteriorate, because of being so close to the rear exhaust manifold

Redog · 01-21-2010, 08:46 AM

Yeah maybe Nate, but I got 2 crappy alternators from AutoZone. One lasted a week the other 2 years.

Is there an Advanced Auto around you? I've been buying my parts there

greg_gorrell · 01-21-2010, 01:53 PM

I checked all the wiring and there's nothing that appears to be shorting out or anything. I followed all the wiring to and from the alternator. It's throwing me engine codes along with the battery light so I might just have to hope she will make it into town for the free diagnostic at "the Zone". Oh and I got the alt with a lifetime warranty so I should be good as far as the thing not working.

greg_gorrell · 01-21-2010, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.graham52

either of you check codes? is it possible the camshaft postion sensor is toasted?

The camshaft sensor is more of an advance. From what I have found out, it will only make you car idle shitty and wouldnt be the cause of it not starting.

A57 · 01-21-2010, 06:41 PM

Well if you had bad plugs then you might or should have miss fire codes that why the SES light would be on...
as for the Alt. sounds like you might have a bad one or bad battery cable..
try running a 4 gauge wire from the alt to the battery...

greg_gorrell · 01-22-2010, 01:17 PM

Check the battery cable and it is good, I will upgrade though just to be sure. But last night I pulled the battery again to recharge it and reinstalled it a little bit ago and theres no engine light anymore, just the battery light. That really sucks because I went and bought a code reader and now its not throwing me any codes. I'm completely stumped right now.

Nate's Alero · 01-22-2010, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg_gorrell

Check the battery cable and it is good, I will upgrade though just to be sure. But last night I pulled the battery again to recharge it and reinstalled it a little bit ago and theres no engine light anymore, just the battery light. That really sucks because I went and bought a code reader and now its not throwing me any codes. I'm completely stumped right now.

should still be saved, if it went out on it's own

clutch1 · 01-22-2010, 02:19 PM

Battery light means alty isn't charging at all. If it charges it sends opposing voltage on that circuit, so nothing flows, so that way the light shuts off.

check for, on the alty harness.. (I forget the wires exactly)
-12v coming in
-a low voltage coming out... whatever that may be

Next go to the voltage reulator (unless that's in the alt.. some GMS have that, I forget if the alero does)... sometimes in the PCM (chrysler mostly.. I think.. but I don't remember)... sometimes just a box. Search wiring diagrams online to hopefully find it.

Check to make sure you have a bit of voltage on the pin coming from the alt going into the regulator (regulator just controls current flow in field winding on alt). If there is a little voltage on there, back probe into it, and ground that wire BRIEFLY***!!! The engine should bog a bit, and system voltage should spike (like 16V or up.. which is why you only do it BIREFLY).

If it spikes when you ground the wire going to the regulator, the regulator's bad.
If it doesn't have 12v coming into the alt.. you have a problem with the circuit that feeds it.. time to test around more.
If you have 12V coming in, and 12v coming out, and 0v at the regulator, you have an open circuit between the alt and regulator.

If the field circuit all tests out OK, you can be pretty sure the alt's bad.