09-26-2010, 06:07 AM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Juan TX
Posts: 4
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Increasing my HorsePower
Hello every one i have had my 1999 alero 2door 3.4 v6 for about a year now.. i thought it was going to be a downgrade from my 1999 3.8 v6 mustang, but i was wrong.. so my car is stock at the moment.. i had a few questions far as performance parts for my car.. but i also dont want to spend to much money on the car.. i was thinking to start off with a cold air intake and maybe an exhaust.. i had two 12' subs in my car and decided to take them off.. i also removed the catalac converter so now its strait pipe.. i did notice how my car seemed to pull more. so that being said here are some questions.
1. what small things can i do to get more HP?
2. i race alot and when i race i shift the gears manually from 1-2-3 i always time it right so it never redlines it seems to give me a bit more hp.. is it ok?
3. can i get my car tuned to increase its hp?
i would really appreciate the advice/help.. here is a pic and some new/old vids of my car racing
most recent picture
Links removed by moderator due to violation of site rules
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09-26-2010, 06:13 AM
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#2
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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yo....not good man..... just warning you we dont support street racing so you might wanna take those links down.... just saying. Dont take anything too personal and start talking shit when the other members respond to this..... or this will get locked when a mod sees it.
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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09-26-2010, 06:15 AM
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#3
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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also....not a good idea to shift with a A/T....your not driving a stick shift dude. But whatever floats your boat i guess. use the search button...look up headers for 3400 or something like that..... get an exhaust....pacesetter is cheap but will rust out in a year and a half
borla exhaust is about $700 OR go custom....
get a tuned PCM from wot-tech or milzymotorsports.... i think they both have them. correct me if im wrong people 180 degree thermostat
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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09-26-2010, 06:27 AM
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#4
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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09-26-2010, 07:21 AM
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#5
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GX Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Round Lake/Antioch, IL
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheman1188
also....not a good idea to shift with a A/T....your not driving a stick shift dude. But whatever floats your boat i guess. use the search button...look up headers for 3400 or something like that..... get an exhaust....pacesetter is cheap but will rust out in a year and a half
borla exhaust is about $700 OR go custom....
get a tuned PCM from wot-tech or milzymotorsports.... i think they both have them. correct me if im wrong people 180 degree thermostat
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Pacesetter will not rust out in a year and a half.
Borla is overpriced garbage. 2.25" pipe which is basically stock.
Wot does not offer pcms but mpracing.org does.
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You want more power? You Need MP Racing!
"Now drink with me deeply of the bourbon, scotch, and rye until such time as we are fighting drunk. Then we shall find, and beat the a**es of, the nonbelievers who ruined my feast" -Alvis
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09-26-2010, 08:07 AM
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#6
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 1,452
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search for "advice and education" and "headers and exhaust." Those are good starter threads. The CAI was about the only cheaper thing I have...if you want something good, it simply costs you money.
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I am happy to say I have added more mods to my car than I have space to list.
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09-26-2010, 11:28 AM
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#7
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Welcome to the board. Don't manually shift your auto trans on a regular basis. Do get lots of good performance mods. Don't post stories, images or videos of you or your car involved in a street race. *I removed your stuff in your initial post*
Have a nice time here
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09-26-2010, 11:28 AM
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#8
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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Shifting manually will go far slower than letting the transmission tune do its job. Your tachometer is slow as well; you can't trust the reading as a perfect point to shift. The transmission already shifts at whatever the 3400's max point is (on the LD9 it's 6450).
Also "eff I mis-shifted" dude seriously? Slow cars racing on the street..... so cool.
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09-26-2010, 01:09 PM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Juan TX
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
Shifting manually will go far slower than letting the transmission tune do its job. Your tachometer is slow as well; you can't trust the reading as a perfect point to shift. The transmission already shifts at whatever the 3400's max point is (on the LD9 it's 6450).
Also "eff I mis-shifted" dude seriously? Slow cars racing on the street..... so cool.
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im not sure if thats correct.. because me and my bro... he has a grand am gt.. when we raced we would stick side by side.. when i would manually shift i would always pull ahead of him at least a couple of cars
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09-26-2010, 01:14 PM
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#10
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GL Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fowlerville MI
Posts: 874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allencochran1989
im not sure if thats correct.. because me and my bro... he has a grand am gt.. when we raced we would stick side by side.. when i would manually shift i would always pull ahead of him at least a couple of cars
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dude just stop while your ahead. you will get no where arguing with c2 or anyone on here for that matter especially about street racing
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[ion] C2 - I ran her hard, on nothing but the bare ground. After easing into it and progressively pushing down harder I could feel the pressure building and once it peaked I let off and she gave a loud cry from the blow off valve.
Ttop191 - ^ because your car is the only thing that will suck and blow that you can actually successfully get within 25 feet of
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09-26-2010, 01:20 PM
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#11
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Howard, KS
Posts: 1,848
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Add more stickers, and a big ass wing.. It adds tons of HP, just ask your honda buddies...and its just as cool as street racing
__________________
2004 Audi TT Quattro 1.8t
1969 Chevrolet Biscayne 2d
1963 VW Beetle
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09-26-2010, 01:21 PM
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#12
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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09-26-2010, 01:44 PM
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#13
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allencochran1989
im not sure if thats correct.. because me and my bro... he has a grand am gt.. when we raced we would stick side by side.. when i would manually shift i would always pull ahead of him at least a couple of cars
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Well guess what, I AM sure that is correct. Until you've delved into the electronics and programming behind how the car operates and have compared the readings from the PCM compared to the readings on the gauges, you have no clue... I've adjusted the transmission tables to increase the shift pressure moderately and lower each shift time to an average of 0.100 sec. My car shifts precisely at the point it is set to, every time, quicker than anyone could throw their hand forward and wait for the transmission to respond to that movement and decide that upshifting is a good idea at that moment.
Car lengths and "sticking side by side" on the street are no accurate comparisons.
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09-26-2010, 01:47 PM
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#14
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Ok, enough with the flaming. Just suffice to say, C2 is correct that the transmission tune knows when to shift for an even mix of performance, streetability and reliability. Key on the last point there. If you want the transmission to do it's job more effectively in a performance manner, you do so at the expense of reliability
Your transmission tune is the point of focus. In order to properly have raised shift points, you have to go into the PCM via one of the two tuning devices out there:
DHP PowrTuner: Out of business but you can still find em used. Though they don't like to work on Vista. Price will vary based on the desperation of the owner to sell.
HP Tuner: Expensive, but effective for tuning ( I still don't think I understand the credit system very well)
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09-26-2010, 02:04 PM
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#15
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Wide Open Throttle
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warsaw Indiana
Posts: 641
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WOT-Tech will offer OBD2 tuning on the store later this year. Currently, custom tunes are taking more of my time so that I can show off complete WOT-Tech builds.
But an HPT setup from me, and I also include support. I won't do all the tuning but I can certainly help. We are working on some files to get people started. I HIGHLY recommend buying the HPT setup.
Credits are either 2 for a car, 4 for your car and year (so 2003 alero, any of them, but only 2003 aleros, not grand ams or malibus). You get 8 credits, so enough for 4 cars or 2 year/make. Other vehicles cost more credits.
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09-26-2010, 08:57 PM
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#16
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
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Just one clarification on the HPT.
You can do one of 4 things when you read in a PCM.
Do not license - Costs nothing but it's read-only.
Single Vehicle License - 2 credits, Read/Write privileges for ONE specific car/vin
Unlimited Year/Model License - 6 credits for the 4-cyl, 4 credits for the V6, Read/Write for any car your year/model/engine group.
Unlimited vehicle group license - 70 credits (V6), Unlimited Read/Write priviliges for any vehicle in the engine group. (not available for the 4-cylinder models)
You can upgrade to higher levels with a 75% pro-rate on your existing credits.
__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
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09-26-2010, 10:16 PM
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#17
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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and it's $50 per credit (but 8 credits are included) right?
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09-26-2010, 11:04 PM
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#18
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Howard, KS
Posts: 1,848
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yea, But if you buy the credits in bulk the price drops..but its rather high numbers before the price drops
__________________
2004 Audi TT Quattro 1.8t
1969 Chevrolet Biscayne 2d
1963 VW Beetle
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09-27-2010, 05:27 AM
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#19
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03Sleepr
yea, But if you buy the credits in bulk the price drops..but its rather high numbers before the price drops
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If I read correctly, yeah, the credits are the same price from 0-99. So it will take awhile to get to that bulk-discount.
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09-27-2010, 05:52 AM
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#20
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 1,452
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Ouch...you really put yourself behind my friend. Ion is in the process of helping me re-tune my PCM with an HP Tuner and is a vast source of all things Alero.
Some life advice: anytime you show up to a new group be a little humble until you know your way around.
Purpose of the 1-2-3 gears is for towing correct? i always found them being limited to be handy when going up snowy and icy roads to keep from up-shifting and slipping. Just my experience though. And does shifting into neutral to coast help reduce energy and gas use? Random thoughts.
__________________
I am happy to say I have added more mods to my car than I have space to list.
Last edited by XanderWiFi : 09-27-2010 at 05:54 AM.
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