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Old 11-20-2010, 11:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
depends on what you want to test... ?

the volts output like cash dollar had said.

one knob has different ohms values, and the other has DCv, ACv, and other power values. I know the one has to be set to ACv, but dont know what to put the ohms set to.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:29 PM   #22
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um. Your setting the ACv to the highest value closest to the value you'll be testing.

so if your looking for an output of 40ACv, then you set it for 50. if you want 56, you set it to 100...etc

your not checking ohms. ohms is resistance. not used here.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
um. Your setting the ACv to the highest value closest to the value you'll be testing.

so if your looking for an output of 40ACv, then you set it for 50. if you want 56, you set it to 100...etc

your not checking ohms. ohms is resistance. not used here.

Ya my dad explained that to me when he got home,
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:36 PM   #24
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pics of setup?
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:57 PM   #25
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If your amplifier is rated at 1000watts @ 2-ohms rms, then you use those values as long as that is what your subwoofers are wired to.

Basically, use the final ohm load on your speakers when they are wired into the ampilifier, then tune to the amplifiers rated rms at that given load.

DO NOT try to squeeze more "power" out of the amplifier than what it is rated at. This will result in a clipped signal that WILL damage your subwoofer.
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Old 11-21-2010, 02:55 PM   #26
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The inline fuse protects the battery and cabling from you know.. starting a fire and stuff if it shorts out to the body, the amp fuse doesn't.

Sounds like a terrible idea. If I stuck 10G into an SPL machine I WOULDNT want it burning to the ground for .2 db.
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clutch1 View Post
The inline fuse protects the battery and cabling from you know.. starting a fire and stuff if it shorts out to the body, the amp fuse doesn't.

Sounds like a terrible idea. If I stuck 10G into an SPL machine I WOULDNT want it burning to the ground for .2 db.

its really all personal preference. i dont use a fuse on my 4g and its been in there for quite some time. the only way it would catch fire is if the line gets cut or it gets disconnected or some random odd. i understand its common. the fuse should be at the amp rating or slightly above what your amp is rated at. (ie: you amp pulls 200amps u need a 200-220). even tho its unlikely if u get a surge of 240amps through the line the fuse will blow but the amp would still be fine with the jump. i have my 8g line fused. it only blew out when i was a dumbass and didnt know how to properly hook wires up to the battery

and hey if u dropped 10g on an SPL setup thats the difference between 159.8 and 160

louder = supreme!
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattismodderX View Post
its really all personal preference. i dont use a fuse on my 4g and its been in there for quite some time. the only way it would catch fire is if the line gets cut or it gets disconnected or some random odd. i understand its common. the fuse should be at the amp rating or slightly above what your amp is rated at. (ie: you amp pulls 200amps u need a 200-220). even tho its unlikely if u get a surge of 240amps through the line the fuse will blow but the amp would still be fine with the jump. i have my 8g line fused. it only blew out when i was a dumbass and didnt know how to properly hook wires up to the battery

and hey if u dropped 10g on an SPL setup thats the difference between 159.8 and 160

louder = supreme!

I do believe the start of the post doesn't begin with him wanting 160db's for his first system lol. But honestly MOST daily drivers would want a fuse at the batt. for protection in case them random happenings occur, as they always do to the most unsuspecting ( *Ehem* (Matt) )
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:27 PM   #29
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The only people that I have seen go with out fuses are comp car with lots of runs of wire.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:27 PM   #30
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wwwaaiiittt.....12 Power wires into 1 Batt.?? how the fk....Why the Fk....bbbboooommmm....


EDIT: The side say's Bat Cap? Isn't a regular cap used to decrease chances of voltage drops to protect the setup? And if that's a cap....It looks like it would be a 500 Farad Cap LOL
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:34 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420 View Post
I do believe the start of the post doesn't begin with him wanting 160db's for his first system lol. But honestly MOST daily drivers would want a fuse at the batt. for protection in case them random happenings occur, as they always do to the most unsuspecting ( *Ehem* (Matt) )

i agree. most people should fuse their shit. never said everyone should do this. i choose not to. ill take my chances
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:40 AM   #32
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What are you running matt?
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:47 AM   #33
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well i was supposed to install this kove audio armageddon 18" this weekend but im still waiting on the box specs. turns out maximum room i can fit for it is 9 cubic feet and it wants about a 7. itll be tuned to 28hz. it will be on my 1000.1 for now until i can get something beefier. its got a 4 inch coil and it would do real well on 3000rms
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:05 AM   #34
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Man its ur choice but why the hell not protect that 18"??? Ne-ways U say a 1K amp will smack it around, do you mean 1K RMS or max watts? if so then my 1100W Mono BOSS amp should be smacking a solid ( @2 ohm 550rms?) So i could push a 15-18 with no problems considering its power is near 550rms? What is the total W/RMS on that Armageddon?
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420 View Post
Man its ur choice but why the hell not protect that 18"??? Ne-ways U say a 1K amp will smack it around, do you mean 1K RMS or max watts? if so then my 1100W Mono BOSS amp should be smacking a solid ( @2 ohm 550rms?) So i could push a 15-18 with no problems considering its power is near 550rms? What is the total W/RMS on that Armageddon?

the amp is an MB Quart 1000.1 discus. puts out 1000rms. the 3" coil version takes about 2500 to 3000rms but the 4" (which is the one i have) takes up to 4000. i dont think ill be putting it on that much power tho. 110amp alternator ftl
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:55 PM   #36
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pics of setup?

Ill try and snap a few tomorrow. It's nothing really special. I made sure that all the wires ran to the back very clean, but from there, I don't really know where to put them. I don't know where to mount my fuse either. It's kinda wedged between the side of the engine bay and the windshield washer fluid reservoir.
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:41 PM   #37
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What are your subs rated @ Hectic? and your setup doesn't have to be special, just has to appeal to you. and as for the fuse, I don't have mine mounted it actually sits between the top of my air box and MAF, but it doesn't touch the MAF at all, don't really know if it would matter but yeah. I think as long as it wont get wet where you put it then you should be fine.

@Matt - Yeah I'm not sure if the alt i have is stock or not, I cleaned it so i probably wont finger it out quickly. I just put 2 RF Punch HE2 12"s in my car that I'm supposed to install for a guy who hasn't had the time to bring his car over, and these bastards are way louder than the cobalt's, buuut my amp clipped a few times from them and now it seems like it took a shot at the alt because my lights are dimmer now inside & out.
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