Capacitor voltage low...

[Cashdollar2009]

I my power hooked up to my starter and ran through the grommet in the floor. Then it's being ran along the edge of the car under the trim, and then up into the trunk. The ground wire from the capacitor in about 15 inches and hooked the the seat bolt and chassis. The thing is that i am only getting between 11 to 12 volts of current to it. I was wondering what may be resisting it from getting a higher readout? I am only running stock battery, alternator, everything. Please excuse the cell phone picture quality.

[GA_turbo]

The only thing i can think off is a bad alt, have it checked and also connect the power wire to the battery. check voltage directly on the battery with the car running and see what it says, use a volt meter, take it from there.

[lonnie]

Hook the wire directly to the battery. Start the car and use a DMM to measure the voltage across the post...should read about 13.6v to 14v if not you could have a alt problem. Also measure across the cap because the cap could be faulty or the digital readout could be screwed up. I believe that there were adjustments on those caps so that you could calibrate the readout to what you measured.

[cherrington17]

if thats w/ the car turned off... your losing voltage, due to the resistance of the wire, running from your battery to your starter.

why the hell would you run a cap off your starter!?!

[Ryan from Ohio]

From the starter FTL...

Why of why?

Go from the battery. You will have to trim away some of the plastic covering, pop the bolt out then put your ring connector in THEN the bolt. Provides the best contact.

[Psyfox]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

From the starter FTL...

Why of why?

Go from the battery. You will have to trim away some of the plastic covering, pop the bolt out then put your ring connector in THEN the bolt. Provides the best contact.

Also, I would put direct current to your alt (so battery straight to alt) and then hook up and solder another ground wire to the chassis of your car. This prevents power loss to the rest of the electric in your car, including the headlights, when the bass hits (some people will run a super powered amp and sub and notice that their headlights "blink" every time the bass hits...aka, they lose power...which could put you in a major accident at night).

[lonnie]

Originally Posted by Psyfox

Also, I would put direct current to your alt (so battery straight to alt) and then hook up and solder another ground wire to the chassis of your car. This prevents power loss to the rest of the electric in your car, including the headlights, when the bass hits (some people will run a super powered amp and sub and notice that their headlights "blink" every time the bass hits...aka, they lose power...which could put you in a major accident at night).

Honestly.....what does this mean?





LOL

[cherrington17]

1) you never solder wires that big. (soldering should stop at or around 10ga, and never go higher)
2) The first thing anyone doing stereo equip should do, is upgrade the "big 3"

4ga should do it. Engine to ground, Battery to body, Engine to body

[Psyfox]

Originally Posted by cherrington17

1) you never solder wires that big. (soldering should stop at or around 10ga, and never go higher)
2) The first thing anyone doing stereo equip should do, is upgrade the "big 3"

4ga should do it. Engine to ground, Battery to body, Engine to body

Thanks for the clarification cherri. Glad someone knew what I was talking about. :P

[GA_turbo]

did you fixed it yet?????

[PappaSmurf]

I've never done the BIG 3 and some people don't have too. If you know what you are doing, LOL.
However, it seems that you might want to do this as it does save you time and money in the long run.
-Smurf-

[Gr1m]

Originally Posted by PappaSmurf

I've never done the BIG 3 and some people don't have too. If you know what you are doing, LOL.
However, it seems that you might want to do this as it does save you time and money in the long run.
-Smurf-

if you havent had to do the big 3 yet then your obv not pushing enough power

[PappaSmurf]

You mean pulling? LOL
I stick to the old saying if it aint broke don't fix it.
-Smurf-

[Ryan from Ohio]

That old saying in this case might leave you on the road with a dead car.



All depends on the amount of true power you are pushing though.

I know this will make Cherry cringe, but I solder 4 Ga to 1/0.

I use crimp connectors. I do the best crimp I can get. Then I put on liquid flux, the break out a torch and grab the solder.

My wires are so good you could swing from them like vines...

[AleroChick785]

sorry to thread steal but do those really even work? meaning the capacitor.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Yes and no.

Its a complicated matter.

If you are having issues and think this is a magic fix you are wrong.

[AleroChick785]

i'm just tryin to figure out a way to stop my girl's beats from givin an goin. the wires are hooked up fine. i can't seem to figure the problem out

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by AleroChick785

sorry to thread steal but do those really even work? meaning the capacitor.

Dunno for sure in the case of car audio, but in home systems, the power amps with bigger power supply caps produce better quality bass, other things equal.... That's for the old school, conventional type power supplies.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Originally Posted by AleroChick785

i'm just tryin to figure out a way to stop my girl's beats from givin an goin. the wires are hooked up fine. i can't seem to figure the problem out

Did you upgrade the big 3?

Look above a few posts up for what that is.

That is where you start.

After that you check and make sure you have a proper ground. Like tell us where it is, picture, etc. Then if we think the grounds good its time for a new alternator, weeeeeee!



Well unless the battery is an old POS> In which case you get a new battery THEN move to the alternator.

[AleroChick785]

i believe it is a 3. i'll have to double check. new battery..maybe month old. really hope it's not the alternator