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Old 10-06-2009, 01:10 PM   #1
zzyzzx
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Serpentine Belt question

I still have the original serpentine belt on my 1999 Alero. It actualy looks fine (at 26K miles it should), but I suspect that it's what's making the squeaking noise that I hear. Normally I don't change out these things unless I have a good reason, since they usually outlast the engine, but if it will get rid of the noise, I'll do it (and for piece of mind). Anyway, I'm thinking about getting the Goodyear Gatorback, but when I look at specs online for different belts, they seem to come in to slightly different sizes for this car:

GoodYear Gatorback 4060868 86.875"
Duralast 868K6 86.875" (Autozone house brand)
Dayco 5060868 86.875"

NAPA PBH6K868 87.345"
Plus one more at NAPA that's also 87.345" (for $50 and is the low noise type)

From RockAuto.com, two more:
GATES Part # K060868 87 3/8"
ACDELCO Part # 6K868 87 3/8"

My question is does the belt length matter?

I had this problem my Escort wherby different manufacturer's belts were different lengths. The Dayco belt I originally used I eventually trashed and substituted a Goodyear Gatorback because it as about .75" longer and was really easy to install vs the Dayco belt that took me an hour because it was too short. So naturally I'm hesitant to buy one of the short ones, even though the Gatorback and the Dayco belts are obviously the better design.

I've seen references to the GatorBack here before with respect to solving noise problems, but nobody has mentioned anything about installation problems due to belt length.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:19 PM   #2
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if it fits a lil tighter you would have less chance of it squealing, and it sounds like that what you are trying to eliminate. i'd go with the shorter one personally even though it might take a little more to install.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:43 PM   #3
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I go with the Gatorback every time. It's quieter, IMO, and I have no trouble installing it. I've got a pretty easy method for relieving tension on the tensioner pulley in order to get the belt on. Just get a 2x4 and cut a 6" section (sometimes it takes 2 of them stacked together, then place it on the firewall, and use a tire iron, with the elbow placed against the block of wood and the socket end against the tensioner pully and pry and it will easily compress the tensioner pulley.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surreal_awakening View Post
I go with the Gatorback every time. It's quieter, IMO, and I have no trouble installing it. I've got a pretty easy method for relieving tension on the tensioner pulley in order to get the belt on. Just get a 2x4 and cut a 6" section (sometimes it takes 2 of them stacked together, then place it on the firewall, and use a tire iron, with the elbow placed against the block of wood and the socket end against the tensioner pully and pry and it will easily compress the tensioner pulley.


You mean there isn't a place to put in a ratchet?
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx View Post
You mean there isn't a place to put in a ratchet?

There is, but it's not big enough to get a ratchet in. And none of my breaker bars will fit either. The engine is too close to the body/"frame".
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:46 PM   #6
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If the belt looks ok it's probably the AC clutch making the noise.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:46 PM   #7
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Different belts will stretch differently, depending on the materials of which they are made. In this case I would go with the AC delco or the Gates belt. You can't go wrong with either of those but the rest are questionable.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:35 PM   #8
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I had the goodyear belt on and never had any problems.. still was working good till i sold the motor.
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill View Post
Different belts will stretch differently, depending on the materials of which they are made. In this case I would go with the AC delco or the Gates belt. You can't go wrong with either of those but the rest are questionable.

The offending Dayco belt I mentioned that was too short didn't stretch enough to make a difference, even after a year.
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surreal_awakening View Post
There is, but it's not big enough to get a ratchet in. And none of my breaker bars will fit either. The engine is too close to the body/"frame".

You'll have to show me on Sunday. That and I was wanting you to verify that you also think it's belt noise. On my Escort I never had belt noise even with a regular belt, I just wanted to use a better one just in case.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:05 AM   #11
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easier way...

put the socket wrench on the tensioner, and get a 1/2 deep well socket with a long extension,and put the socket on the handle of the wrench. (giving it about a foot longer of a handle) the tensioner moves REALLY easy like this.

P <- socket wrench
U <- deep well socket
I <- socket extension
(poorly done ascii demo)
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx View Post
You'll have to show me on Sunday. That and I was wanting you to verify that you also think it's belt noise. On my Escort I never had belt noise even with a regular belt, I just wanted to use a better one just in case.

Yeah I'll take a look/listen to it. Generally speaking I think belt noise is pretty distinct. I have a whole bunch of new and almost new pulleys, tensioners and even a gatorback belt that's only been on the car a few months if you need any parts.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx View Post
The offending Dayco belt I mentioned that was too short didn't stretch enough to make a difference, even after a year.


Dayco is the lowest quality belt of all those you mentioned. Gates is known to make the best quality aftermarket belts.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
easier way...

put the socket wrench on the tensioner, and get a 1/2 deep well socket with a long extension,and put the socket on the handle of the wrench. (giving it about a foot longer of a handle) the tensioner moves REALLY easy like this.

P <- socket wrench
U <- deep well socket
I <- socket extension
(poorly done ascii demo)

Are you talking about putting the socket into the hole at the very bottom of the tensioner? The problem I have with mine is that there's not enough room between the tensioner and the body/"frame" of the car to get the socket in there, or even to get a simple breaker bar in, at least not without jacking the engine up on the passenger side, so I just use my makeshift method. Maybe my engine sits low because of sagging mounts? Or maybe my fender isn't properly aligned since I have had a few accidents? Do you not have any clearance issues?
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:42 AM   #15
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i normally don't have trouble getting it in place, sometimes getting it back out. but maybe the socket wrench i'm using has a thinner head than the standard...
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
i normally don't have trouble getting it in place, sometimes getting it back out. but maybe the socket wrench i'm using has a thinner head than the standard...


Socket wrench? Are you using Crows Feet?

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Old 10-07-2009, 10:30 AM   #17
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nope.. one like the one on the left.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx View Post
Socket wrench? Are you using Crows Feet?



I think hes talking about a 3/8 drive ratchet, you put the 3/8 head into the tensioner without putting anything onto the ratchet.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill View Post
I think hes talking about a 3/8 drive ratchet, you put the 3/8 head into the tensioner without putting anything onto the ratchet.

Yeah, seems like that's what he's saying. Just doesn't fit for me.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CactusWill View Post
I think hes talking about a 3/8 drive ratchet.

well if you want to get specific about it!
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