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Old 11-07-2004, 07:41 PM   #21
zcferres
 
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Cutlass interior (Not mine)
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by FormulaNERD+Nov 6 2004, 07:36 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (FormulaNERD @ Nov 6 2004, 07:36 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-zcferres@Nov 6 2004, 11:21 PM
Well, I did note it was on a cutlass. The cars are nearly exactly the same, at least in 1998.
hmm, so you're saying the 98 cutlass and 98 alero are nearly exactly the same? [/b][/quote]
Aleros didn't exist in 98, but the Cutlass was on the N-Body platform in 98.
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:50 PM   #23
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yeah they are very similar in many ways
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:22 PM   #24
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Ok i'll throw my words in here since I've already done these mods. The fog light switch led is a 12V led. You will either need a 12V led to replace it or use a resistor, I would suggest a surface mount resitor on the led switch as there is really no room for a tradtional resistor.
On the door switches there is one regular 12V fillament type bulb in each assembly, but none in the rear door switches. I relplace the bulbs with led and cut a trace on the board for hte resistor. The window switches on the driver side unfortunatly are to dim becasue there is only 1 led to light all 4 switches. I will be redoing the window switches soon with anled in each switch. All LED's you install in the alero will need resistors or use a 12V LED.
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:10 PM   #25
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Yup, found that one out. I didn't think a 12v LED existed. It blew the 3v LED's I used because of to much voltage. I put a resistor on to test and bingo. I looked at the board and didnt see a resistor, so I figured the wire must of been very low voltage, I was wrong.

Also, quick tip. Dont try to change the LEDs in the power window switches, I busted the thing trying to get it apart.
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by zcferres@Nov 9 2004, 04:10 PM

Also, quick tip. Dont try to change the LEDs in the power window switches, I busted the thing trying to get it apart.
I've had mine apart 4 times already with no problems
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:13 AM   #27
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After I took out the wire, and popped it out of the bezel it was enclosed in a little black box with some clips. I popped it out of the clips and pulled. It didn't budge. So I pulled again and it broke off a little piece that allowed the switch to pivot. :/
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Old 11-11-2004, 07:02 PM   #28
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soooooooooooooo. this gets us where?
to change the led's in the rotory controls i will just remove the white backing plate behing the controls and replace them with 12v led's? then remove the rubber on the nobs to get them transparent?
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