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Old 04-16-2004, 12:16 PM   #1
Youngblood77
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Ok gang, here's the deal: I own a 2000 with the upgraded sound package...the one with the seperate tweeters up near the front of the doors......does anyone here know what OHM those tweeters are, and If when I replace those 4x6's with my new 4x6 plates, will I be showing anything but a 4ohm load to that channel of my deck? I'm just a bit concerned with overloading the front channels of my deck. If at all possible, I'd like to keep those tweeters running WITH my new plates, but if it takes running an amp just to power them, screw it.


P.S. Gotta send out a HUGE thank you to everyone who contributes to these forums, as you've already answered SO many of my questions pertaining to Class II, RAP, etc. All us newbies have to do is read

Thanks guys,

-YB B)
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:56 PM   #2
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oooh, another western ny'er :P

it depends on how you hook the tweeters up...if you put then in parallel with the 4x6 plates, then it will reduce the impedance (which can be bad if your HU doesnt support it)...if you hook them up in series, then it will add up the impedances..

1/Rp = 1/R1 + 1/R2
Rs = R1 + R2

Rs = Impedance when hooked up in series
Rp = Impedance when hooked up in parallel

If you got those 4x6 plates for bass, then I think you might be better off getting a 5" or larger speaker in the door (kick panels?)...

Btw, if the tweeters are 8 ohms and your plates are 8 ohms, then you can put them in parallel to get a 4 ohm total impedance to the HU.
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Old 04-16-2004, 03:19 PM   #3
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i have a 2003 GL. with the tweeters in the sails.

the back of the tweeters were stamped 6ohm and the back of the 4x6's were stamped 4ohm.
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:02 PM   #4
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Nice to meet ya, niral, It's good seeing people so close to home on here

As far as your question; I plan on using the plates mainly for frequencies roughly 400 and up, so a bit of midrange, but no bass, no. I've always been a guy that loves a screaming stereo, so the more highs i have, the better ( CLEAR highs, that is ) I intend on letting a pair of Pioneer 6x9's cover the lower midbass region, and I already own a dual 10 bandpass box, so the true bass frequencies are well taken-care of. ( provided I can get my hands on another amp, I sold my old one )

Upon reading your post, I regret to say that it might be easiest just to unhook the tweets, and run my plates off of my HU.

thanks for your time man,

-YB B)
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:11 PM   #5
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If your worried about the impedance...
hook up your speaks... like factory... and yank the HU and use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the chanel that you have hooked up....
that'll tell ya what the resistance of the chanel is... then you'll know for sure what load would be imposed on your HU :thumbsup:
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:54 PM   #6
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Thanx, black03......now i just gotta get ahold of my buddy with his multi-meter


_YB :thumbsup:
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:54 AM   #7
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I know it sounds insane but the stock head unit could probaly handle a 2 ohm drive from the tweeters. Most of the factory head units that we make are for toyota but they can all handle 2 ohm at low wattage. A tweeter will run very nicely with ten watts thrown into it unless it is a aluminum dome. What they will not handle is bridging the amp. This would not be something that I can recomend but I just thought that I would throw it out there. Any manufacturer is only going to recomend it to be used at four ohm so this would void any and all waranty's.
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Old 04-18-2004, 09:19 PM   #8
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Well, I'm now realising that I never mentioned this before.....I'm replacing the stock HU with a Pioneer DEH-P6600, roughly 22-25 watts rms per channel. The plates I've purchased are 4 ohm, so adding or subtracting resistance to that channel is something I'm VERY leary of doing.....If the factory tweets are truly 6 ohm, then I think my best bet is to just wire up the 4x6's by themselves, and be happy with that.

Thanks fellas,
- YB <_<
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Old 04-19-2004, 06:39 AM   #9
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It sounds like that is your best bet. Besides, you can always save money and then put a small amp via your low level outputs onto your plates and then run the tweeters off of the high level output of the radio. Just put a small crossover or even the bass blockers onto the tweeter. Good luck.
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Youngblood77@Apr 16 2004, 04:02 PM
Nice to meet ya, niral, It's good seeing people so close to home on here
Hey man,
Lost track of the thread lol...
If you're speakers are 4 ohms and the tweeters are 6 ohms, you should be able to hook them up in parallel and get lets see...2.4 ohms impedance...I doubt the HU can support that low of an impedance, but it doesn't hurt to check...look in the manual - i'm surprised the factory HU supports that, the tweeters are hooked up in parallel, right, anyone?
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:13 PM   #11
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im runing my alpine S-types' just like the factory ones, with the tweeter attached, and in stock configeration b4 that off of my Alpine 7893 (Vdrive 60x4) with no problems... but thats My deck...

Edit:Yes they are in parallel... and thats how i wired them to my 6.5's and too my Deck, without problems... if its a 2.4 load... shouldnt be too bad.. 2 or less is where i would get worried...
But if it is infact 2.4ohm...(i didnt have a multi meter.. and i have been runing my deck like this for monthes) my deck seems to love it... lol without issues
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Old 05-01-2004, 02:19 AM   #12
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its probably around 2.4, sometimes they lie and its actually like 2.6, but in this case, the higher the better lol

good to know that works then
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:36 PM   #13
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Ok, i know it's been awhile, but it's finally time to rip into them doors ! I got a few days off of work, and yesterday I replaced the 6x9s ( a pain in the arse, but i DID manage to install huge-magnet speakers without ANY cutting ) One thing I found was that the factory wiring was diferent than what I expected. ( different shades of a color, NOT one with a stripe, and one without ) I logged on here, and found what the factory rear deck speaker wire colors are, and then made my connections. I've looked around for almost an hour, and still can't find that info for the door speakers. Before I tear apart the doors, what colors are the positive and negatives in the 4x6 locations? This way, i can get things buttoned-up quicker, start to finish.

Thanks guys
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Old 05-04-2004, 03:10 PM   #14
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Nevermind fellas, i tore into the door, and see just what's goin on there...
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:06 PM   #15
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yea in the doors its fairly simple... once it clips to the speaker/tweeter harness its simple :thumbsup: lol
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