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Old 02-20-2005, 11:07 PM   #1
00RazziGLS
 
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Well I havent posted much here, but I see a lot of people are into systems. To start off, I work for a car audio shop, so I have a lot of resources for different brands/material/tools and that helps me a lot. I started my ALL Memphis Audio system about 4 days ago. It is comming along pretty good so far. Memphis has a new line of amps out for 2005 and I want to show them off so this should be fun I still have to finish hushmating my front doors, they are going to suck. I hate hushmating, but it made a big difference in my trunk and my back deck. I have a huge port, but that is because I tuned my box at 38hz. I should be lookin at hitting around a 145db on a term lab meter.

System Specs:

Memphis Items

3 - MCD1000 (1100x1 @ 1ohm) (Subwoofer Amps)
3 - M3 DVC 10's (Dual Voice Coil 10" Subwoofers)
2 - MCSQ6.5 (Components)
2 - MCA3004 (4 Channel Amplifiers)
All 0 AWG Power Wire and Ground Wire
4 Way power distribution in rear - 0awg into 4awg
4 Way ground distribution in rear - 0awg into 4awg
All memphis rca's and fuses

Head Unit
CD8454 - 8volt pre outs !!!!
Eclipse Source Unit - http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/cd/cd8454.htm

Lighting audio battery in front
Lightning audio 50ferrad capacitor in rear

I plan on fiberglassing my front doors, making the 6.5" Pods with a tweeter spot.
The face of my box will be sealed off on the sides with a fiberglass form and will look very very smooth. Starting that in a week or so. I will be building a custom amp rack in the rear to show off the amps, along with some neons and accents for them. I want to hide most of the wiring behind cover plates. Should look pretty slick.





















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Old 02-20-2005, 11:14 PM   #2
wy3134
 
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wow sweet setup....can u get some of us a hookup on that stuff? also the hushmating seems nice...where can i get that stuff at?
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Old 02-21-2005, 12:05 AM   #3
bigd6983
 
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i like the tweeters on the rear deck.......lots of pics is always nice, not my cup of tea brand wise but none the less all the work looks awesome.........
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Old 02-21-2005, 12:32 AM   #4
00RazziGLS
 
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Oh just an update, our back deck lids suck royal f****ing ass. They rattle like a bitch. I did all of that to them, and i still have some type of noise. It might just be impossible to get perfectly quiet, but I will be hushmating the bottom side of the deck lid tomorrow...oh and our back panel that our license plate goes onto is also terrible. If any of you have a box that faces towards the rear of the car, or plan on putting one in...plan on hearing nothing but buzzzzzzzzzzzzz when outside of your car with the system up. I removed that panel, put hushmat along the WHOLE freaking inside of that panel, then screwed it back on and since i put 3000 watt's and 3 10's in the trunk i still get a slight rattle from there. That is why on where you see the gaps on the sides of the face of my box......i will be sealing it off completely so that no air will be getting to the back of my trunk and can cause the lid or any of it to rattle!!!! I hate rattling! LOL. I am going to drop the ceiling liner down this week and do the whole top of the car, along with the rest of my doors. I only have the components in my rear deck right now, but they are really really freaking loud. These are the best sounding components I have heard. Sound better than our mb quart premium series, and all of the eclipse components we have, and kicker. If anyone has heard these things with the right amount of power....they SCREAM. :thumbsup:
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Old 02-21-2005, 12:35 AM   #5
00RazziGLS
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by wy3134@Feb 20 2005, 11:14 PM
wow sweet setup....can u get some of us a hookup on that stuff? also the hushmating seems nice...where can i get that stuff at?
Hushmat is basically the same thing as dynamat...which you can purchase almost anywhere. Hushmat is SLIGHTLY thicker, but its not really going to make a difference. It all works basically the same. I can hook you up with a door kit or trunk kit though if you want. I'll get you a good price on it if you are serious, pm me for more details. Also if you need any other stereo stuff or have questions let me know, I got the hookup NW AUDIO

NW Audio is where I work, thats a link to our website. Let me know if you need anything on there or have any questions. Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2005, 03:15 PM   #6
mike2002
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maybe i read it wrong, but are you going to glass off that box so it becomes your back seat? or are you going to be able to fold the seat up still. what i found when i had a 12 back there is the back seat is THICK and doesn't like to let sound through. id cut some holes in the rear deck to let sound into the cabin.

also, those are some awfully nice components for rear fill. personally i dont like a pronounced tweeter comming from the rear, thats why it doesn't bother me i have plastic covering my 5" coax's, i like all the high's up front. not to mention no matter how you mount them there still going to reflect off the rear window messing up the alignment. you might want to tilt them back, versus forward so they hit the window as soon as possible, they look like there going to reflect off it anyways. better to reflect off it asap if its going to in my opinion. but thats the thing about audio, all personaly prefference.

you must have found out how much ass the stock alternator sucks. dont know if you upgraded, but with a system like that, check mralternator.com

looks awesome :thumbsup:
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Old 02-21-2005, 03:26 PM   #7
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the wiring looks......fun
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Old 02-21-2005, 08:34 PM   #8
bigd6983
 
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how much can you get that stuff for......say the trunk kit.....
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:27 PM   #9
midnightalero01
 
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hey you don't think you could give me some details on how you did the front speakers could you cuz i'm trying to get 6.5's up front and some help would be great
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:38 PM   #10
00RazziGLS
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by midnightalero01@Feb 21 2005, 11:27 PM
hey you don't think you could give me some details on how you did the front speakers could you cuz i'm trying to get 6.5's up front and some help would be great
Well to tell you the truth, I am still working the details of what will be done out with my coworkers. We were thinking about taking the whole pocket out of the door, and then I made that ring....but i will add a tweter pod to it also, and then fiberglass it and put the piece back onto the door. The trick will be getting that pocket to mount securely to the door again. So yeah, there are quite a few idea's being tossed around, but I WILL be having a 6.5 with tweeter mounted in my front door lol. There is no room for a crossover though, I will have to put it in the back unfortunately. I'll have to think of some clever way to show the crossovers off in the back along with my amps and digital 50 ferrad cap and all of my distribution. LOL. Its going to take me probably a good month or so to finish it up. As soon as its done I would like to try and get the alero of the month deal. We will see!

-Ryan

P.S. As soon as we figure it out, i'll let ya know.
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Old 02-22-2005, 10:48 PM   #11
mikegett
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Quote:
Originally posted by 00RazziGLS+Feb 22 2005, 04:38 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (00RazziGLS @ Feb 22 2005, 04:38 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-midnightalero01@Feb 21 2005, 11:27 PM
hey you don't think you could give me some details on how you did the front speakers could you cuz i'm trying to get 6.5's up front and some help would be great
Well to tell you the truth, I am still working the details of what will be done out with my coworkers. We were thinking about taking the whole pocket out of the door, and then I made that ring....but i will add a tweter pod to it also, and then fiberglass it and put the piece back onto the door. The trick will be getting that pocket to mount securely to the door again. So yeah, there are quite a few idea's being tossed around, but I WILL be having a 6.5 with tweeter mounted in my front door lol. There is no room for a crossover though, I will have to put it in the back unfortunately. I'll have to think of some clever way to show the crossovers off in the back along with my amps and digital 50 ferrad cap and all of my distribution. LOL. Its going to take me probably a good month or so to finish it up. As soon as its done I would like to try and get the alero of the month deal. We will see!

-Ryan

P.S. As soon as we figure it out, i'll let ya know. [/b][/quote]
It is not hard. I made a fiberglass of the map pocket for eclipse 6.5 comps. I suggest that you wire up the speakers as a trial before building. Tweeters are very direction oriented. You want to find your sweet spot first. It sucks to make the product and then decide that it would be better to tilt it 5 degrees north.
The map pocket on your door is held togeather by plastic posts. These posts are melted to form a flat washer behind the door panel. Just drill out the melted portion and the pocket will fall right off. You can attach it again (if you want) with screws and washers. Take the factory pocket and attach the rings with sticks and a heat gun. The wood glue for heat guns will attach but not bond permanately. Here is the good part. Fiberglass won't stick to plastic. If you are worried then wipe on a fresh coat of armoral. Just cover the pocket with a stretchy material. I used pantyhose. Then start layering the resin and glass. Once you have a few layers the fiberglass can be removed from the OEM pocket. The fiberglass is pretty strong but I still glassed in some metal strips on the back. They gave a nice support. Once you have the outside finished, fit it onto the door. flip the door over and you will see all the holes that the original posts went through. Note the amount of space that you have between the new pocket and the door. Cut out a few strips of particle board that can fit between the pocket and door. Glass those onto the new pocket. You now have a substance that screws can hold to. Put the new pocket onto the door again. Take long wood screws and lightly screw them through the door holes and into the pocket. The wood will be too thin to support this, so remove the screws and pocket. Lowes carries a metal insurt that has a threaded hole in it. You screw them into the wood to give a solid thread for bolts. Purchase some of these and screw them into the wood. Then beef it up with some more fiberglass. Now, the pocket can be placed back onto the door. It can be attached permanately with bolts or threaded rod. I prefered the threaded rod. You can cut it to size and adjust the tension with nuts and washers.
You have plenty of room for a crossover in the door. I mounted mine in the bulge behind the window control. Just put some foam around it so the thing wont squeak. Let me know how it all comes out. I like the door but have been attempting to vinyl the new pocket. I am having no luck. If possible. Could you show the pic at work. I would like to know if it is possible for this to be vinyled. I bought three way stretch to use. would something else be better? Thanks and good luck.
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:38 PM   #12
aleroguy83
 
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i think it looks great. i am doing my car in memphis as well and i love memphis products.(i think it has to do with that i live here). but anyways, how much can you get the trunk kit for and also what kind of price on memphis 12inch m3's and 6.5 component set and 5.25 component set. pm me and let me know if you can.
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:26 PM   #13
00RazziGLS
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by aleroguy83@Feb 24 2005, 02:38 PM
i think it looks great. i am doing my car in memphis as well and i love memphis products.(i think it has to do with that i live here). but anyways, how much can you get the trunk kit for and also what kind of price on memphis 12inch m3's and 6.5 component set and 5.25 component set. pm me and let me know if you can.
I work tomorrow and i'll see what I can get goin for ya! These new memphis amps look amazing....when it is powered up the center with the M on it lights up blue around it, looks really neat! How many M3's do you want, and do you want any amps?

-Ryan
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Old 02-27-2005, 09:43 PM   #14
slowandlow
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whats the x max on thoes subs. i have 1 15 in my car with 23 mm of x max and 1000wats. it also has a sweet alumin cone.
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Old 02-27-2005, 10:36 PM   #15
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Try a SW9100 Titanium cone. A 4" peak to peak or 101.6mm excursion with 3,000 watt RMS = one bad MOFO.
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Old 03-03-2005, 02:27 PM   #16
aleroguy83
 
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i'm just wanting two m3's for right now? what amps would you suggest with them?
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