06-25-2007, 09:25 AM
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#1
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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Should I switch to synthetic oil?
Topic.
173,700 miles, supercharged this week. I hear synthetic's supposed to be loads better than conventional and prevent wear, but mixed responses on higher mileage engines. Anything bad with switching?
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06-25-2007, 09:38 AM
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#2
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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higher mileage engines.....you'll most likely start developing oil leaks and such, mainly because the synthetic has more detergents and stuff that eats the varnish left by old standard oil. Some of that varnish or deposits are actually clogging leaks.
Not saying dont do it, just saying to be prepared for possible results.
Quality of oil though, I love synth. Just best to switch to it after a fresh rebuild or if you have lower mileage.
Oh yeah, and if you're changing your own oil, make sure you change the oil and filter twice after warm-up, or else get a good flush first. Standard oil and synth dont do well together, makes like a gummy looking dark black shit when mixed, so you have to do a good flush when you switch.
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06-25-2007, 09:39 AM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Regina, SK
Posts: 1,215
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Only real issue I can see is if your engine has a leak or is developing a leak synthetic is going to make it a million times worse.
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06-25-2007, 09:45 AM
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#4
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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Alright, I'll wait til I drop in the forged pistons/rods and replace all the gaskets and seals, then. Thanks.
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06-25-2007, 01:24 PM
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#5
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GL Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Olney, IL
Posts: 306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJack
Standard oil and synth dont do well together, makes like a gummy looking dark black shit when mixed, so you have to do a good flush when you switch.
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I thought that's what semi-synth is...synthetic mixed with conventional. It's not black and gummy. Maybe I need to read up more on it.
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06-25-2007, 02:49 PM
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#6
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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you mean synthetic blend. It is mixed.....but it's also engineered correctly so that the materials will work with each other. You just slap standard and synth together and watch what happens.
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06-25-2007, 03:13 PM
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#7
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Southern Fly Boy returns
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: OKC/Austin/El Paso
Posts: 1,521
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use royal purple when u do all that shit, bad thing is u cant use anything else once u start to use it so be careful
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06-27-2007, 03:07 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
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I've never had any issues converting a higher-mileage engine to synthetic.
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Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
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06-29-2007, 05:52 AM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: California
Posts: 104
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Same here my car has 120,000 miles, 40,000 of it being rough driving [me], and the other 80k unknown & it runs fine with synthetic oil so far. Maybe try using a semi-syn before trying out a fully synthetic oil just to see how that works would be best...
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06-29-2007, 08:05 AM
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#10
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GX Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lithuania
Posts: 192
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question: if my oil is leaking, once in 2 months i have to add 1 liter off oil... could anyone give some tips on how to prevent the leaking?
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The Black Devil ---> American Heart and Soul representer in Europe....
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06-29-2007, 09:08 AM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Regina, SK
Posts: 1,215
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I think there's a product called stop-leak that you can use on your engine. Also if you're in a warmer area you can switch to heavier oil (10w30 instead of 5w30) etc. Or you could just rip apart the engine, find the leak, and fix it that way. Odds are it's a gasket.
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06-29-2007, 10:49 AM
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#12
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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dont use royal purple, it costs more. use mobil one synthetic, thats what i have and its only 20 bucks for 5 qts. mobil one is great too! love it :-)
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2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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06-29-2007, 11:13 AM
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#13
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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I'm also running Mobil 1 ..... good choice Billy.
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06-29-2007, 11:27 AM
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#14
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJack
I'm also running Mobil 1 ..... good choice Billy.
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Yeap, i went with royal purple when i switched over, and then i changed to mobil one, didnt notice a difference. mobil one is used by nascar.....royal purple isnt
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2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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06-29-2007, 11:34 AM
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#15
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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I meant good choice based on your needs and cost. nascar may use mobile one, but I know alot of fast drag racers that use royal purple.
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06-29-2007, 12:35 PM
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#16
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJack
I meant good choice based on your needs and cost. nascar may use mobile one, but I know alot of fast drag racers that use royal purple.
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yea but how much of a difference do you really think there is??? i paid about 30 bucks for royal purple, and i doubt there is much of a difference..... either way, i have synthetic, and its good for my car. thats all i need to know
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2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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06-30-2007, 05:53 PM
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#17
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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There are some nice cleaning product yo can poor in the engine before an oil change to remove all the deposit. You put it directly in the oil refill and let the car run for 5-8 mins then you do your oil change to synth. Shouldn't have any problems. (or maybe some leaks like said before)
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2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerosaint
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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07-07-2007, 11:50 AM
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#18
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i dont know if this really makes a difference but when i went to motorcycle mechanics institute they said in class that if you have more than 50k miles on a car using non synthetic, that you should not use synthetic or synthetic blend becuase it is actually slicker (if thats a word) than regular oil and it will start making its way past rings, valve seats, gaskets, and all kinds of other shit. it causes the motor to smoke more becuase its actually burning the oil in the combustion chamber rather than normally. that was motorcycle mechanics, but a combustion engine is a combustion engine no matter what its in.
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07-07-2007, 12:07 PM
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#19
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I Have ONE NUT
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: North Mankato, MN
Posts: 1,017
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Mobile one for me too.
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07-07-2007, 12:36 PM
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#20
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Soon to be banned again
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bellmore, NY
Posts: 3,372
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i just saw a commercial the other day, they have oil designed for high miled engines, might want to look into that aswell
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