Amp Mount

eag182 · 01-11-2005, 06:49 PM

Something I've been working on. It'll attach to the back of the rear seat when its mounted in the trunk and (with a little angled piece) bolted in it should be prependicular to the trunk, the logo facing out:

In the future perhaps Ill try my hand at fiberglassing it, but for now I think it looks nice matching the color of the amp itself.

Vtolds · 01-11-2005, 06:51 PM

Looks cool, you'll defintly have good air flow around it

FormulaNERD · 01-11-2005, 06:59 PM

looks cool, but i value all my trunk space.

01-12-2005, 06:40 AM

Nice amp. Do you have a speaker box you can screw the amp to? If you put it on the back of the seat, make sure you leave enough slack so you can put your seat down.

eag182 · 01-12-2005, 02:16 PM

The amp's decent - $135 at BB now. Here's the sub box:

But i hear the vibrations from da bass'll mess with the amp, so It won't ever be attached.

Total sub box materials: $15

As you see, its all assembled, and knowing that does anyone have a recommendation on covering it?

01-12-2005, 03:08 PM

carpet would be easiest way to cover it.

01-12-2005, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by eag182@Jan 12 2005, 02:16 PM

But i hear the vibrations from da bass'll mess with the amp, so It won't ever be attached.

Is this true? poop everthing viberates in my car if the shizzel is turned up. The boxes are made so good and tight.....The install guys attached mine to the box.

jamcllw · 01-12-2005, 08:24 PM

carpet

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=261-750

mike2002 · 01-12-2005, 09:26 PM

from the looks of it that box is made out of particle board, not the best material, but should be fine for 1 small 12.

also, if materials were only 15, i HOPE you used liquid nails, i dont see any oozing out the edges though. if you didn't, take that box apart and liquid nail all of your joints, and spread it with your finger along the inside corners/edges, your box isn't even close to airtight if you didn't use any. it'll sound much better if you do this, and your box might not hold together if you dont.

bad thing about particle board is it expands when it gets wet, bad. and it doesn't hold screws to well

eag182 · 01-12-2005, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mike2002@Jan 12 2005, 09:26 PM
from the looks of it that box is made out of particle board, not the best material, but should be fine for 1 small 12.

also, if materials were only 15, i HOPE you used liquid nails, i dont see any oozing out the edges though. if you didn't, take that box apart and liquid nail all of your joints, and spread it with your finger along the inside corners/edges, your box isn't even close to airtight if you didn't use any. it'll sound much better if you do this, and your box might not hold together if you dont.

bad thing about particle board is it expands when it gets wet, bad. and it doesn't hold screws to well

@jamcllw
Thanks for the link!

@mike2002

You're wrong on four levels, here.
1.) Its MDF Board (2 boards @ 5/piece + $5 screws/caulk I already had)
2.) The interior is caulked
3.) Caulk is not a definitive factor in holding a box together
4.) I can stand on this box no problem, so its not even close to being weak.

My sub sounds great!
(dont dis my wood skillz :thumbsup: )

mike2002 · 01-12-2005, 11:41 PM

well, not 4 counts.....

i thought it was particle board(seems light colored, maybe its just the pic...the mdf i get is darker) , and if thats the case, then no liquid nails and it could have come apart. caulk woundn't really hold it toghether, but if you used liquid nails like everyone else, it would have helped hold it together. im sure its strong, my point was, if you used particle board which it kind of looked like, it could blow apart (you went so light on the caulk i didn't see any)

i wont dis on your wood skillz if you learn to rip the boards at angle's so the pieces line up :P

eag182 · 01-13-2005, 12:23 AM

Well I didnt exactly have autocad or a diagram handy, I went through a little geometry to find out the right dimensions to equal the recommended area. I think everything lines up quite well in fact.

mike2002 · 01-13-2005, 09:07 AM

lol...im just messing with you, i was reffering to the wedges in the front top and bottom

01-13-2005, 10:40 AM

how many cu. ft. is that box? it looks pretty big.

eag182 · 01-13-2005, 04:36 PM

I never really did that well in geometry...

01-13-2005, 04:42 PM

Well. What are the dimensions?

mikegett · 01-13-2005, 08:03 PM

Eag182, Mike was right about the caulk and strength of the material. A high quality (grade A furniture) plywood is the best to use. A subwoofer can produce alot of stress. Partical board and even MDF(better) can expand and contract. This is what causes the hollow sound you hear with some boxes. Various woods will change the sound as well. Very dense boards like cherry are commonly used in high quality products. The other thing to remember about screws is that they are only there to hold the wood while glue dries. A screw will actually weaken the wood around it while glue makes a tight bond. I worked for a cabinet company for two years after High School. The neatest thing I saw was the glue test. Even laminated surfaces or Milamine(mdf with a plastic coating) can be glued togeather. The best practice is to use enough glue to cover the entire surface and place a staple or screw every six to ten inches. I was impressed with your cutting. The angles looked good. Do you have a router. A little tip for making the job easier is to overlap the wood. Then use a router and 3/4 inch laminating bit to trim off the excess. I saves alot of time. Good luck with the carpet. You will have a nice setup when your done.

eag182 · 01-13-2005, 10:00 PM

Overlapping, I never thought of that and sounds like a good idea. I might redo the front piece, possibly with a radial saw to get it flush with the top and bottom.

slowandlow · 01-13-2005, 11:06 PM

how much did tiy spend on the sub? i got a hi end 15 with a alumin cone and high rool rubber sround. olny spent 175

mikegett · 01-14-2005, 08:15 PM

Sorry about the bad picture. It was dark out, so I couldn't get my camera to focus. You don't have to remove the plastic around the seat. Just pull off the trim at the left of your window. Be carefull. I broke one of the posts the first time I tried it. Get your finger behind the trim and place all the pressure near the post. As you can see, the top antenna and the bottom heating strip go into the black box. This is the amplifier for your antenna. The antenna jack leaves the box and goes to your HU. The two wires are the power and ground. Positive on green I believe.