View Poll Results: which braces/bars would you consider better?
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solid strut tower braces
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17 |
80.95% |
pivot strut tower braces
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4 |
19.05% |
04-29-2010, 12:02 AM
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#1
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AutoCross Alero
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,759
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Strut tower brace debate.
as the title states, i'm interested in what opinions people have of whether slod braces or pivot braces are better?
i have run my last 2 races on pivot braces, and this weekend i'm trying solids.
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04-29-2010, 12:10 AM
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#2
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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um... maybe for us "idiots" can you have a pic for the difference?
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04-29-2010, 12:15 AM
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#3
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oxbow SK
Posts: 1,385
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i'm not totally sure
but i think this
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Honda-Civic-88-00...item3a5a2c3518
would be a pivot brace
and a solid one would be without the bolts at the ends, just a solid piece
__________________
2002 Alero w/ 2.2 ecotec 5 speed
power window conversion, heated leather seats, 16" rims, high & low hids, auto dimming rear mirror, speedbuilt front and rear sway bars, poly bushings all around.
2005 Silverado 2500HD w/ 6.0l Vortec 4L80E
Tuned 6.0l, exhaust, intake, with 450000km on the odometer. Tow Rig
1985 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/ 5.7 Vortec 700r4
mild vortec 350 with 4 speed auto. performance suspension. factory gold color. project car
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04-29-2010, 12:18 AM
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#4
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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ok. Thats what i thought... but wanted to be sure.
I don't race... but I noticed a significant increase in the stiffness of my steering, when I added my pivot bars. I'd imagine the solids would be even more so.
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04-29-2010, 12:54 AM
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#5
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A-mod Pirate
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Big Bad Cali
Posts: 3,016
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I have a solid but never had a pivot idk which ones better
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04-29-2010, 02:17 AM
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#6
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Midland, MI
Posts: 1,458
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I will be installing mine soon within the next week.
I got them from PFYC
Anybody got an install method?
I was just thinking of removing the nuts to the strut tower, then attaching the braces, then replacing the nuts.. sound good? anyone?
I will vote soon enough tho..
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04-29-2010, 04:09 AM
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#7
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 236
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I first had an ebay pivot bar and it did give a firmer feel to the front of the car. I have the 3400 and it began to rub slightly on the alternator, could have been the bad engine mount also.
I then replaced it for a MRZ performance solid bar and I like the feel of it better, feels a little more solid. I do not know how much difference each would make at a track because I daily drive and haven't been real aggressive with it on corners. I also installed a rear sway bar shortly after the solid bar and can take corners pretty aggressively now.
__________________
99 3400 V6, Black, 2 Door, eibach springs, TOG headers, 18" chrome wheels, clear corners, tinted windows and tails, CAI, taylor wires, 2-12" subs, tv w/ 12 disc, slotted rotors, soon to be OSV kit.
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04-29-2010, 07:42 AM
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#8
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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common sense would tell me that solid bars would be better, I think the rigidity would help you navigate corners easier, and make your car easier to read in and out of corners....
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04-29-2010, 11:27 AM
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#9
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AutoCross Alero
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,759
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a couple things i've noticed so far, the solids are quieter, and they seem to hold the chassis tighter, the true test will be this weekend.
i'm considering making adapters to secure to the firewall also.
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04-29-2010, 11:51 AM
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#10
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 268
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I have Pivot in front and solid in the back. If all other specs the same the solid should provide better results but my front pivot STB is thicker and with more rigid material.
Also pivot ones are adjustable vs solid ones that are not:
1)Easier to install without having them push out or in
2)Comes in handy if you want to widen your strut tower tracks and dial in some extra - camber.
Overall the decision should be based on the thickness, material, and application but for the ones I have, I vote pivot. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
__________________
GS - 01 Alero Coupe - MT, CG-lock,Front/rear strut tower brace,WAI,Fidanza Short throw Shifter and custom short throw clutch, AGX adjustable struts and mounts, Dropzone Springs, speedbuilt front sway bar, Toyo R888.
CS - 06 RX8 - Special Edition Shinka, 285 Hoosier A6.
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04-29-2010, 12:24 PM
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#11
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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You can help me answer my vote.
Between the pivot and solid shown, which one has a bigger bolt holding it together?
That one gets my vote.
There is a bit of a lever effect in the pivot though...
__________________
-Ryan
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04-29-2010, 12:46 PM
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#12
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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I have the pivot and never had a soild.
Let me know
It is a tight fit with the alternator, but if you have the bar on backwards, it rubs the alternator
__________________
33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
2007 Volvo V50 T5 6M 15.782 @ 89.12
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04-29-2010, 01:18 PM
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#13
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 268
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If you are handy, you might want to make one of these for yourself:
__________________
GS - 01 Alero Coupe - MT, CG-lock,Front/rear strut tower brace,WAI,Fidanza Short throw Shifter and custom short throw clutch, AGX adjustable struts and mounts, Dropzone Springs, speedbuilt front sway bar, Toyo R888.
CS - 06 RX8 - Special Edition Shinka, 285 Hoosier A6.
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04-29-2010, 02:14 PM
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#14
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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Had a pivot, doesn't fit anymore with the GT3076R, fabricating a solid one soon.
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04-29-2010, 04:07 PM
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#15
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: fort riley ks
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentiac
If you are handy, you might want to make one of these for yourself:
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Holy cowl! thats nice!!!! Did you buy that? does it fit the alero? if so were from?
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04-29-2010, 04:35 PM
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#16
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Um...no. Autoexe stuff does not fit the Alero.
You're on your own for anything other than upper strut tower braces.
Honestly, while they probably don't hurt, I don't think the Alero is as bad as some other cars since the strut towers are faily close to the firewall/rear bulkhead.
FWIW, I have a MRZ brace in front and a SLP brade in back - the MRZ bolts the center bar to the mounting brackets, while the SLP is all 1-piece welded steel.
MRZ is below; I can't find a pic of the SLP rear brace (long since discontinued).
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04-29-2010, 05:56 PM
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#17
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AutoCross Alero
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentiac
If you are handy, you might want to make one of these for yourself:
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i'm already working with some people on setting up a lower strut brace and a couple other things kept secret.
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04-29-2010, 08:37 PM
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#18
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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were it me, I'd go solid across the towers with firewall tie-in. Good luck bro, looks like you're building a time-attack monster (whatever the hell that is LOL)
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04-29-2010, 08:59 PM
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#19
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJack
were it me, I'd go solid across the towers with firewall tie-in. Good luck bro, looks like you're building a time-attack monster (whatever the hell that is LOL)
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there was a three point STB in the works at one time, (i was a part of it) About 4 weeks into before any real progress was made the guy doing the fabrication/designing was killed in a car accident and we were all refunded out money and got a regular 2pt strut bar for shipping costs....
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05-11-2010, 11:18 AM
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#20
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 1,226
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anyone know for sure which one wont touch the alt? i have a vibrant it didnt hit the alt but if i hit the gas hard enough the car would almost stall out found it was groudning out on the alt. there was a gouge in the bar from it. is there one thats got more clearance i miss having a strut bar.
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