07-24-2008, 03:52 PM
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#41
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmorezcmunee
ugh, now i gotta buy that expensive royal purple...(7.50 a quart) and change my oil. oh well. there goes my beer money
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nooooo......please don't do that.
your new oil is still going to pick up residual moisture. Change it with something less expensive, run if for a week, then do a flush/change with the expensive stuff.
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07-24-2008, 03:53 PM
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#42
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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well when i first used royal purple it unleashed a few horsies that were still in the stable with the old oil i was using. maybe it was all in my head but id reccommend it
::edit::
oh ok thanks BlackJack.
now i can drink!
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07-24-2008, 03:53 PM
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#43
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Ohhh ya he is verry right! change it with the cheap stuff
then royal purple
still wouldnt pay that much for oil
lets see
3000 mile change cost you
About 40 bucks
6000
75 bucks
12000
150 bucks
24000
300 bucks
48000
600 Bucks
96000
900 Bucks! Sweet Jesus! thats alot of moolah!
etc etc....
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Last edited by Nate's Alero : 07-24-2008 at 03:57 PM.
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07-24-2008, 03:58 PM
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#44
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmorezcmunee
well when i first used royal purple it unleashed a few horsies that were still in the stable with the old oil i was using. maybe it was all in my head but id reccommend it
::edit::
oh ok thanks BlackJack.
now i can drink!
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Yes, you are correct. Royal Purple does have better lubricating properties giving less friction. Though the HP gain by Royal Purple alone is negligible, it's still better if you can afford it. However, I use Mobil 1 (synthetic) in my turbo setup and have had no sludge buildup (inside the engine looked sparkly new) no "coking" in the turbo, and runs really good. It's still more expensive than standard motor oil, but it's not quite as expensive as RP.
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07-24-2008, 04:07 PM
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#45
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
Ohhh ya he is verry right! change it with the cheap stuff
then royal purple
still wouldnt pay that much for oil
lets see
3000 mile change cost you
About 40 bucks
6000
75 bucks
12000
150 bucks
24000
300 bucks
48000
600 Bucks
96000
900 Bucks! Sweet Jesus! thats alot of moolah!
etc etc....
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yeah but with RP you wouldnt have to change every 3000. id say probably every 5000.
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07-24-2008, 04:09 PM
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#46
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJack
Yes, you are correct. Royal Purple does have better lubricating properties giving less friction. Though the HP gain by Royal Purple alone is negligible, it's still better if you can afford it. However, I use Mobil 1 (synthetic) in my turbo setup and have had no sludge buildup (inside the engine looked sparkly new) no "coking" in the turbo, and runs really good. It's still more expensive than standard motor oil, but it's not quite as expensive as RP.
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so just like some cheap stuff then. ill just get whatever oil change special they have at autozone this week. thanks everyone. pardon my n00br0sity earlier. i shall keep that to a minimum
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07-24-2008, 04:10 PM
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#47
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmorezcmunee
yeah but with RP you wouldnt have to change every 3000. id say probably every 5000.
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i ALWAYS change after 3000
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07-24-2008, 04:21 PM
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#48
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
i ALWAYS change after 3000
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well RP is a full synthetic. thats why i say every 5000. when i used conventional i changed every 3000 too. if u get a good filter like a K&N or a Purolator, you can feel confident in doing that
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07-24-2008, 04:41 PM
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#49
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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...ok
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07-24-2008, 05:56 PM
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#50
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on vacation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: that way
Posts: 2,169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
i've gone though such terrible weather for 6 hours straight with my CAI without any issues. you cannot suck up water unless you go through a puddle deep enough to cause the end of your tubing to be submerged in the water. and long enough to have it get to the engine.
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not true.. i've slapped a puddle of water id say about 2 inches deep, mabey 5 foot by 2 foot in size.. doin around 30 mph- my intake sucked it up and the car stalled in the middle of the road.. that filter -does not- have to be submerged for it to suck up water and kill the engine
and about royal purple.. a car running royal purple (this coming from their website.. not me) can last 12,000 miles without an oil change.. not saying ID go that far.. but that's what it says.. go read up on it
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WILL NEVER FORGET
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07-24-2008, 06:13 PM
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#51
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midgear
not true.. i've slapped a puddle of water id say about 2 inches deep, mabey 5 foot by 2 foot in size.. doin around 30 mph- my intake sucked it up and the car stalled in the middle of the road.. that filter -does not- have to be submerged for it to suck up water and kill the engine
and about royal purple.. a car running royal purple (this coming from their website.. not me) can last 12,000 miles without an oil change.. not saying ID go that far.. but that's what it says.. go read up on it
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that am true Midgear . i stalled at every red light thereafter. and im gonna buy some oil and a filter asap. then after a week or so ill throw that royal purple back in there
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07-24-2008, 06:39 PM
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#52
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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I would still get full synthetic cheap oil instead of any regular oil for a week. I heard regular and synthetic oils doesn't like each others very much, thats why I've been told to buy some engine cleaner before switching to synthetic.
I run Mobil 1 here.
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2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerosaint
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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07-24-2008, 07:16 PM
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#53
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Jack-Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinalero
I heard regular and synthetic oils doesn't like each others very much, thats why I've been told to buy some engine cleaner before switching to synthetic.
I run Mobil 1 here.
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That's why I said run cheap stuff and then do a drain/FLUSH when you change oil. You're absolutely right, regular and synthetic don't like each other, unless you enjoy having a block full of jello.
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07-24-2008, 08:08 PM
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#54
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Keepin it Real
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 12,522
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i effing love jello!!
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2015 Audi SQ5
2000 Alero GLS Coupe - still in the family, but I don't drive it anymore
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07-24-2008, 08:17 PM
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#55
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on vacation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: that way
Posts: 2,169
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rofl! ^^
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WILL NEVER FORGET
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07-24-2008, 10:44 PM
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#56
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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dont forget the pudding!
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07-24-2008, 10:48 PM
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#57
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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i thought mixing synthetic and conventional was a misconception because synthetic isnt actually a synthetic. but i will do as im told
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07-24-2008, 10:58 PM
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#58
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on vacation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: that way
Posts: 2,169
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It Does What It's Told!
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WILL NEVER FORGET
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07-25-2008, 10:57 AM
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#59
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midgear
It Does What It's Told!
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it puts the lotion on its skin!!
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07-25-2008, 11:34 AM
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#60
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midgear
not true.. i've slapped a puddle of water id say about 2 inches deep, mabey 5 foot by 2 foot in size.. doin around 30 mph- my intake sucked it up and the car stalled in the middle of the road.. that filter -does not- have to be submerged for it to suck up water and kill the engine
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I said to hydrolock. You must've gotten something wet in there so it didn't fire or a sensor didn't work right and shut down. Water isn't compressible. If you suck up enough water so that the air can't be compressed much or there is no air in the cylinder at all, it will hydrolock; the piston can't compress the water so that force exerts back on the hardware and there goes your pistons/rods/stuff.
I've driven through the most unbelievable amount of rainfall and puddles and have never had an issue.
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