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Old 09-25-2007, 09:17 PM   #1
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very disapointed....

okay so tonight i went to dragway 42...one of the local drag strips. i ran 4 times.

1)16.3098@85.53mph w/2.4169 60ft.
2)16.4280@85.27mph w/2.5149 60ft.
3)16.3248@83.38mph w/2.4449 60ft.
4)16.6317@83.37mph w/2.4940 60ft.

about 2 months ago i ran at norwalk and ran twice

1)16.293@84.44mph
2)16.338@85.34mph

i dont know what to think of this...i have 80k on the car. i thought alero's were suposed to run high 15's stock. i was lauching at about 2k rpm. should i try somthing else next time? tell me what you guys think.
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:34 PM   #2
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think the dhp would help much?
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueolds01 View Post
okay so tonight i went to dragway 42...one of the local drag strips. i ran 4 times.

1)16.3098@85.53mph w/2.4169 60ft.
2)16.4280@85.27mph w/2.5149 60ft.
3)16.3248@83.38mph w/2.4449 60ft.
4)16.6317@83.37mph w/2.4940 60ft.

about 2 months ago i ran at norwalk and ran twice

1)16.293@84.44mph
2)16.338@85.34mph

i dont know what to think of this...i have 80k on the car. i thought alero's were suposed to run high 15's stock. i was lauching at about 2k rpm. should i try somthing else next time? tell me what you guys think.


track prep sucked? if i had catback would have maybe 14.6
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01silveralero View Post
track prep sucked? if i had catback would have maybe 14.6

track prep...what do you mean...the burnout...?
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:21 PM   #5
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Launch at idle as well. No point revving the car up.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:46 PM   #6
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so its gotta be in the start....maybe ill go again next tuesday... this makes me mad.
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:23 AM   #7
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track prep as in the gripping compound they lay on the track so you don't spin your wheels as you take off. did you have any wheelspin off the line?
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:04 PM   #8
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Yeah, your idle was WAY too high at launch, especially if it's an automatic. Our convertors flash at @ 1600-1700 RPM. By launching higher than that you are working against the convertor and it will result in slower ET's and trans trouble (just ask Redog about that).

Lower your front tire pressure a little (28 psi) and launch - regardless of manual or auto trans - at around 1400. Much more consistent launches and qicker ET's.

Your car could also be slower because of all of the mileage on the car. If it's all casual highway miles it'll wear differently (and more slowly) than hard driving in and around town. Plus keep all excess weight out of the car (60 CD's and a 10-CD changer in the trunk or massive speakers in the back, will add serious weight which slows cars down).
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:14 PM   #9
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1400RPM eh? I thouht it was 2200, that's what I launched at last time I went and got terrible times. I'm going tonight so I'll take that into consideration and do a 1400-1600 launch. Also will have pressure around 28PSI. Will also have passenger/rear seats out, spare tire/jack, and it will be around 67 degrees and I'll be icing down the intake/supercharger before I run.
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:19 PM   #10
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No need to remove the seats, etc. unless you really want to.

And the trick behind auto trans launches is "banging the convertor", meaning launching a few hundreds lower RPM than the convertor is set for so that you aren't overpowering the convertor (higher than the convertor) or winding it out too long (ultra low RPM launch). It's more efficient & effective this way.

Ronnie who works the lanes at RP on Sundays taught me that trick years ago. He's an accomplished & respected NHRA Stock Eliminator racer and hasn't steered me wrong yet.

Redog used to launch way too high and ended up hurting his trans. Once he follwed my (Ron's) advice his ET's dropped significantly and his launches were much more consistent.
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
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No need to remove the seats, etc. unless you really want to.

i thought we want the least weight possible, and that the seats are somewhat heavy
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:38 PM   #12
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True. I guess I misunderstood your intention. When I normally refer to "removing as much weight as possible" I am usually meaning to drive the car factory-clean - meaning leave in seats, jacks, etc. and remove all superfluous jackets, CD's, books, etc.

If you do decide to remove everything else (or as much else as you can), remember that typically 100 lbs. = 0.1 seconds. Remove 175 lbs from the car and it should reduce your ETs by 0.175 seconds. I emphasis 'should' because where in the car you reduce weight makes a big difference. In our FWD cars you'd want to keep as much weight over the front tires by removing center & rear weight. Removing front weight certainly does help but if you remove too much from the front relative to the rest of the car's weight reductions you could make it harder for the tires to grip at launch. Don't know a good formula for you to determine how much is too much in the front. You'll need to figure that one out by trial and error.

One area most people forget is the gas tank. For FWD cars you'd want 1/4 tank or less in there for 2 reasons:
1) More gas = more weight, more gas weight = the greater the rear weight bias in the car (vs. the front). Plus when the gas swooshes in the tank under acceleration it pushes to the back, fourther accentuating the bias off the front tires as they try to grip.
2) it's lighter
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:43 PM   #13
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Gotcha. I'll have 1/4 tank by the time I get there. Most all the weight I'm taking out is from the rear, so that's good. The weight of the s/c also adds more to the drive wheels. Wish meh luck, lookin for 14.99 or less.
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:58 PM   #14
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Good luck!

Also, most tracks have a weight scale somewhere near the return road. Try to weigh it if you can and then report the weight here - both with and without driver. That'll help us gauge the car for you.
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:02 PM   #15
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when i ran i took everything but the subs out...they weigh 50 maybe 60 pounds...i guess i should've taken em out. this car owned by a girl before me and she drove highway...and the funny thing is i got my lowest time with some else in the car at norwalk....lol. non of this is making sense, i lowered tire pressure, there was only a 1/4 tank of gas...is it me or the car?
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:14 PM   #16
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Subs in the back are going to make a big difference as I've said before. Is your car a stick or auto? And what are you (or the car, if it's an auto & you left it to shift on it's own) shifting at @ each gear change?

There's a sticky on how to get the quickest ETs but a few quick points for you, assuming it's an auto trans:
1) Run the car in 3rd gear, NOT Drive or O/D.
2) Watch where the car wants to shift at Wide-Open Throttle (WOT) during this run.
3) Next run, manually shift 200 RPM above this.
4) Next next run shift 400 RPM above Auto WOT Shifts and see if this further increases or decreases ET from runs 1 and 2.
For bracket racing where consistency is more important than speed I always leave my car in 3rd and let it shift on its own. It'll be .25 - .4 secs quicker than leaving it in "D" or "O/D" because of pressure points in the trans. Manually shifting it I can pick up an additional couple of tenths but prefer the greater consistency of the car shifting on its own.

Also, make sure the transmission has had time to cool down between runs. It takes the trans longer to cool than the engine, believe it or not, because although it doesn't get as hot as the engine there's no fan to cool the trans fluid like there is radiator for the engine. The cooler the trans the better your ETs, all else remaining equal.
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Last edited by Daytona : 09-26-2007 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:18 PM   #17
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16.3 is actually in range for a totally stock 3400 Alero.

Lauching at 2200 RPM's really doesn't help and kills the tranny. I blew a chuck off my tranny and it cost me $2 grand to fix.

Lower tire pressure to 28 ~ 25, lauch at 1000, do a decent burnout nothing too big but do it in 2nd gear. Drive the track in 3rd gear.

If you have an intake, remove the driver's side headlight for better airflow, but only if you have an intake.

The DHP will not help you much. It's one of those things that benfits you if you have a few mods. Intake and exhaust is always a good start.

Dump the spare, jack and your sub, run with 1/4 tank or less
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:22 PM   #18
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the most taking the subs out would do is drop it something like .075...
the car shifts at about 5600 rpm, an auto, v6's never came in a 5 speed.
ran in 3rd
the car red lines at 6...isnt it kinda unsafe to manually shift it, i heard that doesnt help at all.
letting it cool longer im sure would help, i didnt let it cool long, i was kinda short on time.
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog View Post
16.3 is actually in range for a totally stock 3400 Alero.

Lauching at 2200 RPM's really doesn't help and kills the tranny. I blew a chuck off my tranny and it cost me $2 grand to fix.

Lower tire pressure to 28 ~ 25, lauch at 1000, do a decent burnout nothing too big but do it in 2nd gear. Drive the track in 3rd gear.

If you have an intake, remove the driver's side headlight for better airflow, but only if you have an intake.

The DHP will not help you much. It's one of those things that benfits you if you have a few mods. Intake and exhaust is always a good start.

Dump the spare, jack and your sub, run with 1/4 tank or less

i have a 2.5" cat-back w/dual 40's and a wai. i just put on some kyb's (traction) and its got new plugs and wires....i acctually removed the headlight for the 2nd run...look were it got me.
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-'01 alero "442"
3.4 v6, 8.2 taylor wires, 2 10's , WAI, 2.5" custom cat-back exhaust w/ dual super 40 mufflers and, KYB-GR2 struts. 15.701@87.69mph.
-'97 s10 4.3 v6, alpine head unit, camaro rims, 2.5" cat-back w/Edelbrock SDT, Edelbrock TES headers, HPPIII, and 8mm taylor wires. 15.505@87.42mph

http://www.cardomain.com/id/s104-banger
videos-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=YvkbtiBirVo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=WnmqBZkdmAM
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Old 09-26-2007, 04:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueolds01 View Post
the most taking the subs out would do is drop it something like .075...
the car shifts at about 5600 rpm, an auto, v6's never came in a 5 speed.
ran in 3rd
the car red lines at 6...isnt it kinda unsafe to manually shift it, i heard that doesnt help at all.
letting it cool longer im sure would help, i didnt let it cool long, i was kinda short on time.

It's only unsafe to manually shift it if you overrev the engine or you accidentally shift too hard and it goes into Neutral or Reverse at WOT. It does help a little to manually shift depending on the set-up. That's why I recommended small increments above WOT shift points.

The sensors in the trans are a bit tricky for our cars. In heavier rush hour stop-and-speed-up-and-stop-again traffic I noticed the car becoming more and more sluggish with the throttle response. The trans heats up and it slows the car down.

The engine might have been too hot as well from the sound of things. I always try to leave enough time between when I get to the track and when I have to make my first time shot. At least 30-45 minutes for my cars. Then once everything's cooled down and I pull into the lanes I begin to warm the engine back up with the car in park. My temp gauge in the Daytona is separated into 3 sections with a bottom line, top line, and 2 middle lines. The 2nd highest line is normal 195-degrees (I think). I always try to run it with the temp needle at the 2nd lowest ("1st middle") line. It'll be warm enough to run consistently but not too warm where it'll slow down.
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