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Old 01-29-2010, 06:21 PM   #21
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at least misery has company, eh mitch?
Yeah... wonderful
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:13 PM   #22
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*UPDATE*

Today the car overheated while stopped at a light, I turned on my fan switch and blasted the heat, but there was no where to pull over so I just waited until the light changed to green. The temp gauge gave me the warning chirp and I started this stuff and it got to justbelow the red line and started to drop slowy. When I started driving again it dropped quick. I was not getting any heat until this happened

I pulled into the dealer's lot (I was going there to pick up a part) and turned off the engine. Popped the hood and the uppper hose was cool enough to touch. I could feel bubbleing inside the hose. I squeezed it and the bubbling stopped.

I drove the car home, the hottest it got was just below 1/2 way. Heat was blowing nice and hot. I parked the car and popped the hood with the engine running and air bleed the system like Nate told me. I was getting a shitload of air bubblbes then nothing but coolant for a second, then air, and this went back and forth for a few minutes then it was nothing but coolant.

I closed the petrooster and revved the motor and held it at 4000 RPM's for about 3 minutes, then stopped and let it idle, then did that again. A few times with the heat on, I few with it off. I closed the hood and did it again. The hottest it got was the neddel was at the top side but still on the mark for 1/2 way. The coolant was brownish
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:07 PM   #23
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brownish coolant? your limg is shot.
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:52 PM   #24
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LIMG is an easy repair... I didn't believe it at first, but try it and see.

Takes maybe 2 hours to get it off the first time, and simple to put back together.

Costs what.. like $90 for the good LIMG? Just go for it.
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Old 01-30-2010, 05:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog View Post
The coolant was brownish

Ouch... Hope it's not trans fluid.
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Old 01-30-2010, 06:33 PM   #26
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Hi, sorry to steal thread, but can someone explain me what this "bleeder screw" is?
In what coolant line is it. And why should I bleed my system there?

Thanks
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy View Post
Hi, sorry to steal thread, but can someone explain me what this "bleeder screw" is?
In what coolant line is it. And why should I bleed my system there?

Thanks

It is the 8mm Black screw with green top on the top of the water pump.
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whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01silveralero View Post
It is the 8mm Black screw with green top on the top of the water pump.

as seen on the pic

But I asked WHAT it is. And what I exactly do with it.

Is is the same like bleeding the cooling system on other cars, with removing the radiator cap?

Why isnt it appropriate to just open the reservoir?
Whats the difference?
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:01 PM   #29
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My coolant was brown when my heads went... LIM DID NOT CAUSE BROWN COOLANT!!, if it's causing brown coolant, your oil will be white, the transfer does NOT occur that easily, get a leak tester at NAPA, test for combustion gases in the coolant, 100% it's heads
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a4d2a0m View Post
I had a similar prob in my grand am... after searcing it was a tiny hairline crack on the fenderside of the reservoir. just below the seam.

How can I inspect for this? Do I have to remove it?
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Nate's Alero View Post
My coolant was brown when my heads went... LIM DID NOT CAUSE BROWN COOLANT!!, if it's causing brown coolant, your oil will be white, the transfer does NOT occur that easily, get a leak tester at NAPA, test for combustion gases in the coolant, 100% it's heads

agreed its the heads.
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whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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Last edited by 01silveralero : 03-01-2010 at 01:38 PM. Reason: yes i realize this is an old post
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:42 PM   #32
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i know, i just did them.... which i must say, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, i have had no issues, not a drop of coolant lost and the power is immensely better
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy View Post
as seen on the pic

But I asked WHAT it is. And what I exactly do with it.

Is is the same like bleeding the cooling system on other cars, with removing the radiator cap?

Why isnt it appropriate to just open the reservoir?
Whats the difference?

Yea it's basically the same deal, but IIRC the Alero doesn't have a rad cap, so it needs this.. open it up, wait for a steady stream of coolant/ no bubbles and all the air should be out.

This is directly in the coolant stream, it probably just does a better job than opening the res cap
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:02 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clutch1 View Post
Yea it's basically the same deal, but IIRC the Alero doesn't have a rad cap, so it needs this.. open it up, wait for a steady stream of coolant/ no bubbles and all the air should be out.

This is directly in the coolant stream, it probably just does a better job than opening the res cap

but the LD9 and Eco don't have a bleeder, all the air will work itself out eventually, but thankfully the 3400 does have a bleeder screw
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:36 PM   #35
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Redog it's your head gaskets.


I am surprised that the people who post here most often seem to be the least informed mechanically about their cars.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:30 PM   #36
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Frustrated.

nvm

Last edited by Chris2000 : 03-04-2010 at 10:18 PM. Reason: nvm
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