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Old 01-15-2015, 09:16 PM   #1
will9blay
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Audio set-up

Hey,fairly new to this, i have an 01 alero V6 4d and I am redoing the sound system on it, hAve been reading a lot on these forums and everyone is asking if it has a monsoon amp. ... now I haven't come across one that said they have it, but I do...is there a precaution and that's why everyone is asking? Secondly, I know nothing of electronics I know the brands but can someone advise some amp specs and speakers that will work well together that I don't have to break the bank for? Thanks everyone in advance
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:41 AM   #2
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I see this is your first post... welcome to the forum!

Are you positive you have the Monsoon?

There is no precaution with a monsoon amp really, but the rear speakers are dual voice coil so it has one connection for the highs and one connection for the mids. If you get rid of the speakers or the monsoon amp, what's left won't work. You can swap out the head unit to an aftermarket one and the Monsoon will work no problem, however you can't swap out the speakers and use the monsoon amp because the signal is split causing either your mids to work and no highs or your highs to work but no mids (meaning no light bass). That's why you'll always get asked if the car came with a sound package. The fronts are not as affected by this.

Now as far as your second question, it is too vague to answer. The biggest thing is what do you want to do? Just a sub? Full blown system? Also, what kind of music will you be listening to? Acoustics don't require a big sub, whereas rap and electronic music will require 2 12"s or a good set of 2 10"s.

If you just want a subwoofer, you can do so for under $500. A full system will set you back about $700 or so.

The head unit is the biggest component that has to be purchased around your future upgrades. Sub only, a cheap one works but if you're swapping out all speakers, and will be powering them by an amp, then you'll need one of the higher end head units that have 3 sets of RCA cables. 4volt is better than 2volt at clarity, but 2volt can get louder... it will just be sound a bit more muddy.

Amps are the only place you can buy a basic piece and be ok SO LONG it is CEA-2006 rated. The CEA part is very important. There's many cheap brands out there like Boss and Crunch that are NOT CEA-2006 compliant, thus the rating they claim is not what you can realistically get. For example a non CEA compliant amp that claims 1000 watts may realistically put out 500.

For subs, a middle tier will work. Don't get hung up on people with JL Audio or DC subs. An Alpine or Kicker sub will work fine and not break the bank.

Regular speakers, coaxial will do, although it would be better to get component speakers for the doors since the tweeter is mounted on the sail panel.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:44 AM   #3
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There is plenty of information and what many of us would recommend. Take a scroll through the audio section and you will find a lot.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:39 AM   #4
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As I'm sure Papa Rad will agree, Alpine type r speakers all the way around.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:06 PM   #5
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Where are you from in Ontario?
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:15 PM   #6
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I completely agree with Nas. For the subs, you don't have to go extremely high end to get decent output. My first setup, a couple years ago, was just an Alpine MRP-M500, and a JBL 1214D 12" in a prefab box, with a wiring kit you can get from Best Buy. The whole thing cost like $300 I believe and it sounded great for only being a 300RMS sub.

In terms of head units, I would stick with alpine, pionner, or even kenwood. I had a jvc deck before and it was overrated. The specs stated it had 4.8v preouts and it wasn't even close. The pioneer single din decks can be really good and are more affordable then say, a double din.

Depending on how loud you want to be and/or your budget, you may just want to run speakers strictly off the deck rather than have a separate amp. Keep in mind that virtually all stereos clip signals near the maximum volume. For example, my current deck: Pioneer avh-3200bt distorts at volume 37 out of 40. To the make speakers last longer and perform optimally, don't constantly have the volume at max.

Also, if you are on a budget, I wouldn't recommend going over the 600WRMS range as then you get into the area of requiring larger gauge wiring, upgraded batteries, Big 3, potentially h/o alternator, etc.
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New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:26 AM   #7
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I run 400w rms and 800 peak to a set of 12" MTX terminator subs. Factory wiring and factory alternator just fine. Although the alternator is brand new. Hits hard enough for me and my metal music without stressing the cars electrical system. I do use 8 gauge wire for power and ground and 12 gauge for the speaker wires. A little overkill but I like to be safe. Use good quality wiring as well. As far as speakers, go with what you can afford but stay with name brands like pioneer. I love my pioneer speakers. 3 ways in the doors for $35 and the rears are 5 ways for $100. Sound great and didn't break the bank. Pioneer is a good affordable deck as well. Always used them and never had an issue. Seen good things with alpine too.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:16 AM   #8
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I planned on replacing everything and putting in subs, and he's I'm positive it is the monsoon, saw the connection on the speaker and it had 2. I am planning on doing the subs first as it seems a bit longer of a task.but if I read that right I would need a different amp. would that affect the original rear speakers, or am I going to have to replace them the same time as the sub? Thanks for your guys help so far! And S8track16 I'm about 20 outside barrie, you?
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:08 AM   #9
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You can easily check for the monsoon amp... it's behind the carpet by the driver side tail light close to the trunk hinge...

You'll have to get another amp to run the subs, plain and simple gm wiring is messed lol there's an adaptor available to run the new amp off the factory deck unless you're upgrading that or have already done so...

Btw I'm about 1 1/2 from Barrie... we had a small meet up in Barrie a couple years ago, maybe we'll see if we can organize another one this summer...
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw0123 View Post
You can easily check for the monsoon amp... it's behind the carpet by the driver side tail light close to the trunk hinge...

You'll have to get another amp to run the subs, plain and simple gm wiring is messed lol there's an adaptor available to run the new amp off the factory deck unless you're upgrading that or have already done so...

Btw I'm about 1 1/2 from Barrie... we had a small meet up in Barrie a couple years ago, maybe we'll see if we can organize another one this summer...


haha Im actually going to college in lindsay
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:29 PM   #11
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Hahaha nice man! We could meet up one day and talk about cars! Lol
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will9blay View Post
I planned on replacing everything and putting in subs, and he's I'm positive it is the monsoon, saw the connection on the speaker and it had 2. I am planning on doing the subs first as it seems a bit longer of a task.but if I read that right I would need a different amp. would that affect the original rear speakers, or am I going to have to replace them the same time as the sub? Thanks for your guys help so far! And S8track16 I'm about 20 outside barrie, you?

If you're gonna get a 4 channel amp to power your door speakers, you're better off running the cables and distribution block for it in one run instead of doing that twice, or using separate cables. 0 Gauge welding wire works well and it's true copper.

If you don't have a head unit/radio already, you'll need that done too before adding subs, or at least line out converters.

What's your budget for subs and what kind of music do you plan using them with?

10's are better for rock/light bass
12's are better for Rap/EDM/Dubstep
15's will make you lose your trunk and probably lose some hearing.

Ported is better for more bass SOUND whereas sealed is better for bass punch. Bandpass is the best, gives you the best of both worlds but you lose out on the higher tones/aka you won't hear your speakers begging for mercy, they will simply blow.

Personally (I listen to a lot of E40), I would get a ported box with 2 12" Alpine Type S or Kicker CVR122 (Dual 2 ohm) and call it a day.

The set up I had in my Grand Am that sounded the best was 2 12" Alpine Type E subs, a boston acoustics amp (GT2200) and a ported box with 1.5 cu ft and it used to set off alarms all the time. Man, I miss that box.

Also, if space/trunk is an issue, get the Kicker Solobaric mini enclosure sub. It's a truck preloaded sub box, costs $400 or so (or build it yourself and save $150) but it sounds like 2 12" entry level subs. That's my current setup in my Camaro and I like it for what it is. Not setting alarms off but good enough to enjoy some E40, trap music, or other bass heavy music.
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