Dual Batteries

[violentrapture]

Ok, I just bought two Optima Yellow Top batteries - one to replace the main battery, one for the stereo stuff. I did a quick google on using two batteries and quickly got in over my head with talk about isolators, solenoids and whatnot. How does using two batteries work and what all am I going to need?
Thanks y'all,
Collin

[alerocar01]

I have never done that before but, what i do know is that you want to hook the batteries up in parallel. That way you will only get 12v but twice the amps.

[cherrington17]

or you can get a battery isolator. i believe you should get one that is about twice the amperage what your alternator puts out.
you connect the isolator to the second battery, but i'm not sure how you connect it into the electrical system in your car.
The isolator will charge your primary battery and the second battery, but it keeps them separate so if you kill the second, it doesn't hurt the primary.

I'm sure some people on here have done this setup. try messaging silentalero or one of the big stereo guys, or air-ride guys. Personally, i'll probably be setting up one of these systems in the future.

[wy3134]

this is actually a thread id like to hear on, as im planning a second battery for my upgraded system in the near future so i dont keep killing my primary battery....info on this would be most helpful for anyone putting a system into their car

[AftermathAlero]

ya you'll a relay or isolator (does the same thing). I have the stinger 200amp isolator relay for my 2nd battery hook up. Its pretty easy to install. Its just running an amp power wire. Just hook up the 4 or 0 ga wire from front battery(1st primary)[of course fuse it coming from the battery] to the rear of the car to the isolator (or front of the car depending on where you install the isolator relay) from the isolator to the 2nd battery. Then hook up all the stereo amp power wire to the 2nd battery.

Beware though, when adding a 2nd battery, it should be the same as the 1st battery. (both models the same) and must be installed at the same time. It is not good to mix an old battery with a new one. So if under your hood, you have an optima red top, your 2nd one needs to the same.

[AftermathAlero]

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/tech_dep...0%20diagram.pdf (http://www.stingerelectronics.com/tech_department/sr200_sr80%20diagram.pdf)

Easy diagram from stinger. You'll need the stinger SR200. Can be found on ebay or www.darvex.com for 44 bucks.

[violentrapture]

Awesome - just ordered the SR200. Yeah, both batteries are optima yellow tops and when the Stinger gets in they'll both be going in at the same time. wy3134 - I'll try to remember to take pics and do a how-to once I get to doing it.
Cheers,
~vR

[turtles_ride]

i was told that when installing your second battery, the isolator you get depends on the current drawn by your stereo system and extras like lights and LCDs. Any truth to this, and if so how would i figure it out?

[violentrapture]

Woo, 7 hours baby, ain't she pretty? ;) (yes, I did somehow manage to completely remove the hood during this... no idea how and no reason why)

Install went fairly well - Richie was a godsend, had to call him twice trying to figure the darn thing out. I'll write up a how to on doing this later.

Two pretty Yellow Tops are now successfully installed, and by god my subs hit harder (the LEDs on my distribution block light up brighter now as well)

http://www.collind.com/pikshures/2battery/2.jpg

I got some nifty tools too.

http://www.collind.com/pikshures/2battery/1.jpg

[wy3134]

by god that looks like a missing battery there! get some pics up ASAP of the isolator and batteries installed!! good to hear it works

[AftermathAlero]

no prob, collin glad i could help out a brotha!

[violentrapture]

Alright, well, here's some quick pictures to give an overall idea of it.

1st: Overhead shot showing installation:

http://www.collind.com/pikshures/2battery/overhead.jpg

2nd: Labeled closeup of Stinger SR200 and wiring

http://www.collind.com/pikshures/2battery/closeup.jpg

3rd: Battery in trunk (the trunk is a work in progress, back off) :P

http://www.collind.com/pikshures/2battery/trunk.jpg

[wy3134]

looks good so far! dont let that battery sit too long in your trunk like that though...cant wait to see finished product!

[wy3134]

just curious, where does the remote part of this come into use?

[violentrapture]

Richie can explain better than I can exactly how it works - it's the ignition power switching though - signals the relay when to be in use for charging - I just spliced right into the HU remote wire, ran through the firewall and up to the relay there.

[AftermathAlero]

The remote wire turns the isolator/relay on and off. It pretty much let you control the isolator/relay the 2 batteries separate (both batt separate when its off) or together whenever you want them to. (when its switched on).

For example. I got my air ride compressors hooked into my 2nd batt. When I play with them at shows and the compressor kicks on ( while the engine is off, the isolator is off to keep both the main battery and 2nd battery separate; so I don't drain my main starting battery and leaving me strained). So the compressor is only drawing power from my 2nd battery. While the main battery in the front is fine and dandy. LOL. But with the isolator on, It'll draw power from both battery so i'll get a longer time to play with.

I hope this helps, i hope i'd explained enough for ya to understand. I can't think of a good example right now at 11:45pm my time. Been a long day.

[dt_freak1]

sometime in the somewhat near future im going to have to REDO all my wiring in my Ho. the way it looks ima need to go 0 guage wire instead of my 4-twin 8 setup for my system....plus i know in about a year ima need a new alternator. right now when im drivin at night with my system thumpin my lights dim a hair. its not noticable when im actually driving down the road but it does get a hair noticable when im at a stop sign...knock on wood i aint been stranded yet however, when i first started this whole stereo project back in 04 august i had my alternator checked by O'Rielly Auto Parts and they said i had 52 Amperes comin out which shoulda been ok for a while. in the time since i unfortunatly did alot of tuning and adjusting and alot of new parts and time spent adjusting all the parts and stuff with the car on accessory killed a battery. how long do yall think I'VE got with this alternator yet? i know its the FACTORY one cuz it says Delphi on it and is kinda dirty along with the Engine Block. yes my car is a 01. please advise as to how long yall think i can let her go?

[violentrapture]

Mine is a '99 with original alternator and I'm only running 4 gauge for power/ground. I'm only running about 1500W RMS though from the two amps - you might be pushing more if you need 0/1. I had some pretty bad dimming before adding the 2nd battery, but it took care of the dimming. You can get a new alternator for around $100 - there's a couple on ebay for under that (about $70 from what I saw). I picked up the yellow tops off of sounddomain I think it was for $80 ea. so you might consider that also. Lots of great deals running around that you could jump on.
Collin

[dt_freak1]

what do you think about about getting a specially worked up alternator to do about 150 amperes and the dual battery setup. right now im ONLY pushing maybe 450 watt RMS. i guess my max amp power is in the vicinity of maybe 800-900 most of that being accounted for by the MRP-M350. all i know is i get dimming and im PLANNING on upgrading to a single Type R 12" and a bigger V Series mono amp for the Type R 12". my 4 guage to dual 8 guage is only certified safe for up to 1400 watt of amp juice and once i get the Type R 12" and new Type R components and some Type R 6x9s im gonna definitly be about there on the power levels. i really dont relish the idea of burning up my amps or even burning up my electrical system if i keep adding and adding like i am.