3.4Alero
02-14-2004, 12:24 PM
Edit by Naich- The Stock rotors that come on the Alero are HORRIBLE. They seem to warp between 12k and 20k... so instead of paying a mechanic to
"turn" or "cut" your rotors every year or so, it will be more cost-effective just to replace the rotors. You can buy rotors at Tirerack (click on the banner on the homepage), http://www.partsforyourcar.com, http://www.rsmracing.com, htp://www.americanperformanceofcolorado.com
1. Remove the cap from the brake reservoir They say to remove some fluid, but I never have, and have had no problems, so it's your call.
2. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the wheel.
3. Use a brake cleaner to clean off the rotors, as brake dust can cause cancer.
4. Remove the bottom caliper bolt. You will have to use an open-ended wrench to hold the slide pin while you remove the bolt.
5. Swing the caliper up away from the pads. Now put a block of wood against the caliper piston, and use a C-clamp to gently push the piston back into the caliper. While you are doing this, watch the fluid in the reservoir so it doesn't spill over the top. Also, watch the piston boot, so that it goes into the caliper evenly. If it doesn't, your best bet will be to get a new caliper, as rebuilds are pretty tough to do yourself.
5. Remove the top bolt, then use a wire hanger or piece of heavy wire to hang the caliper from your suspension. Be careful not to kink or stretch the brake line.
6. Remove the pads, then remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts, then remove the bracket itself. Be sure you know how you removed the bracket, so you put it back on the same way, and put the pads back in correctly.
7. Pull the rotor off, and put the new one on. Put the bracket back on.
8. Put some anti-squeal compoud (available at autozone, advance auto, etc.) on the back of both pads where they touch metal, and let it set up for a couple of minutes.
9. Clean the caliper slide pin and put some high temp. grease on it.
10. Put the pads in, assuring that the inner one is the one with the wear indicator, and the wear indicator is at the top.
11. Reinstall the caliper, put the lid back on the reservoir , and pump the brakes a few times to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. The pedal should feel nice and firm.
Torque specs:
Caliper mounting bolts: 23 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bracket bolts: 85 ft-lbs
Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs (tighten in cross pattern)
If I missed anything, someone please correct me.
"turn" or "cut" your rotors every year or so, it will be more cost-effective just to replace the rotors. You can buy rotors at Tirerack (click on the banner on the homepage), http://www.partsforyourcar.com, http://www.rsmracing.com, htp://www.americanperformanceofcolorado.com
1. Remove the cap from the brake reservoir They say to remove some fluid, but I never have, and have had no problems, so it's your call.
2. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the wheel.
3. Use a brake cleaner to clean off the rotors, as brake dust can cause cancer.
4. Remove the bottom caliper bolt. You will have to use an open-ended wrench to hold the slide pin while you remove the bolt.
5. Swing the caliper up away from the pads. Now put a block of wood against the caliper piston, and use a C-clamp to gently push the piston back into the caliper. While you are doing this, watch the fluid in the reservoir so it doesn't spill over the top. Also, watch the piston boot, so that it goes into the caliper evenly. If it doesn't, your best bet will be to get a new caliper, as rebuilds are pretty tough to do yourself.
5. Remove the top bolt, then use a wire hanger or piece of heavy wire to hang the caliper from your suspension. Be careful not to kink or stretch the brake line.
6. Remove the pads, then remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts, then remove the bracket itself. Be sure you know how you removed the bracket, so you put it back on the same way, and put the pads back in correctly.
7. Pull the rotor off, and put the new one on. Put the bracket back on.
8. Put some anti-squeal compoud (available at autozone, advance auto, etc.) on the back of both pads where they touch metal, and let it set up for a couple of minutes.
9. Clean the caliper slide pin and put some high temp. grease on it.
10. Put the pads in, assuring that the inner one is the one with the wear indicator, and the wear indicator is at the top.
11. Reinstall the caliper, put the lid back on the reservoir , and pump the brakes a few times to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. The pedal should feel nice and firm.
Torque specs:
Caliper mounting bolts: 23 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bracket bolts: 85 ft-lbs
Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs (tighten in cross pattern)
If I missed anything, someone please correct me.