Cheapest way to get HP

[VAAlero]

I have a 2.2L ecotec in my 2004 alero with a automatic, and im looking for ways to get more horsepower without any major modifications. Im currently looking for a turbo, and having really bad luck :( so I figured I could get small amount of hp elsewhere while I search for my turbo.

Any help would be great :D

[Redog]

Intake, exhaust, larger Throttle Body,

I think they make a cam for the eco, but an eco guy might want to veriy that

[battistoni21]

def start with intake and exhaust.....

[deemer]

i'm also thinkin of sticking and exhaust on my alero but how does this one stack up??? I figure with dual 10's i can't really make a good time at the track so i might as well make it as loud and mean as i can :coolio:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/UNIVERSAL-HKS-SLANT-TIP-TITANIUM-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-HIPER_W0QQitemZ140025622316QQihZ004QQcategoryZ3363 6QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Cliff8928]

an intake would be a good start. Nearly any intake from a cavalier can be made to fit. The Short-Ram (WAI) intakes usually just bolt right on. If you want a CAI, then you'll probably have to do some slight modification due to the difference in the shape of the washer reservoir.

on the exhaust end of things, you can do a cat-back (they're all the same for the Alero and Grand Am, regardless of the engine). There's also a few different headers that you can get, PaceSetter (4-1), Tsudo (4-2-1), iPerformance (4-2-1), DC Sports (4-1 or 4-2-1) and more (RK, JBP, Mantapart, etc..)

There's a few different cams available, some even through GM. Also there's the supercharger kit (17800003), however you'd need to have it custom tuned, because GM doesn't have a tune available for our PCMs. There's also adjustable cam gears, underdrive crank pulley, etc... I guess it just depends on how much you want to spend.

[VAAlero]

I recently got a CAI and got that all hooked up, I guess next step would be headers and exhaust. I was trying to stay away from superchargers just because they cost so much, thats why I was looking for a turbo. But its really slim pickings when your looking for a turbo.

[Redog]

i'm also thinkin of sticking and exhaust on my alero but how does this one stack up??? I figure with dual 10's i can't really make a good time at the track so i might as well make it as loud and mean as i can :coolio:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/UNIVERSAL-HKS-SLANT-TIP-TITANIUM-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-HIPER_W0QQitemZ140025622316QQihZ004QQcategoryZ3363 6QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

God no, go with Flowmaster

[billytheman1188]

I just put a CAI in my car, thing sounds mean as hellllll when i step on it. I do have a 3400 so i dont know if it sounds better than the little 4 bangerslol

[Redog]

When I had the Hyundai I was going to get a 4-1 header. I think 4-1 it a little bit better than 4-2-1

[Alero2k4]

Here.

1.Intake
http://cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=260&pid=1359

2.Cams
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=288&catId=288&catName=JP0288

3.Header
http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PFYC&Category_Code=AL&Product_Code=GA3018

4.High-Flow Catalytic Converter

5.Camaro Style Transverse Muffler
(Flowmaster, Dynomax, etc.)

6.Tips
http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/tips.htm

7.Ported Head
(Intake and Exhaust ports)

8.Stainless Valves
h (http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=244&catId=244&catName=JP0244)ttp://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=244&catId=244&catName=JP0244 (http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=244&catId=244&catName=JP0244)

9.Valve Springs
You would have to do a little research but I think people use ones from the LS1.

10.B&M Shift Plus

11.ARP head studs
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/arp/hschevrolet.html
(They are at the bottom of the page)

12.11:1 Pistons
(Wiseco etc.)

13.Intake Manifold
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/737/products/229002/Ecotec-4-Cylinder-Fabricated-Aluminum-Intake-Manifold.htm

14.Throttle Body
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=LS1+Throttle+Body+75mm&hl=en&lr=&sa=X&oi=froogle&ct=title

15.Performance Ignition
http://www.msdignition.com/sci_4.htm

16.Con-rods
Might as well replace those with the pistons....

I can keep going...just let me know how deep your pockets are...;)

The way I see it...this should be good for an east 200+ WHP. Good 240 at the crank...and if all else fails....run the stock cams and a wet shot of nitrous. Nitrous is obviously the cheapest way to get hp, but if you want to run anything bigger that about 35, an adjustable ignition is necessary, and I would definately run a wet shot...:drunk:Damn I am bored....

[VAAlero]

nice, thanks alot

[Spilner521]

That's a good list, but you could build a turbo kit for cheaper than everything listed there and make about 240hp to the wheels. And then you could add in some forged pistons and rods and push over 300hp to the wheels. Like Alero2k4 said, it's all about how deep your pockets are.

[Alero2k4]

That's a good list, but you could build a turbo kit for cheaper than everything listed there and make ALOT MORE THAN 240hp to the wheels. And then you could add in some forged pistons and rods and push over 300hp to the wheels. Like Alero2k4 said, it's all about how deep your pockets are.

Hey...I was bored last night...but that would be a killer N/A set up huh...

[[ion] C2]

That's a good list, but you could build a turbo kit for cheaper than everything listed there and make about 240hp to the wheels. And then you could add in some forged pistons and rods and push over 300hp to the wheels. Like Alero2k4 said, it's all about how deep your pockets are.

A turbocharger is cheaper than $500 (you said less than anything there, and nitrous is about 500) and would give you 240HP at the wheels? When did this happen? Lol. Links. Now. :ninja:

[Alero2k4]

He is referring to the whole list...basically for 3k you could get more from a turbo than 3k worth on n/a...correct me if I am wrong spilner

[VAAlero]

problem is, still having trouble actually finding a damn turbo to fit the stupid thing.

[Alero2k4]

You shouldn't have any trouble finding an actual turbo to fit it. The only thing that would change is the actual charge pipes because the auto (trans) takes up more room. You would be best off to have a local shop custom build and fit your charge and intake piping. Other than that, the rest of kit (Manifold, turbo, etc.) should be no different than any other Ecotec motor. Another thing that would probably benefit you is to build your own kit. This would allow you to shop around for the best price as well. Check out j-body.org. They have a great guild for building your own turbo set up. Another place to look around is ecotecforum.com (may be ecotecforums.com...I forget). Just to some research and you will understand why I am saying this. I don't have a turbo as of yet (will when funding permits), but believe me when I say I have researched the hell out of this stuff. Anyways, I would recommend you find the custom turbo kit thread on j-body and start reading. Good luck young grasshoppa!!!

Edit: Just need to clarify. It is not going to be an actual 'kit' you will find to fit your car. Sorry, they don't make any 'kit' for and auto Alero. You will need to piece together your own kit.

[VAAlero]

ah thats prolly why then. Been looking for a complete kit :P back to the drawing boards

[Cliff8928]

the easiest way would be just to raid a saab in the junkyard for it's turbo and components and adapt them to fit.

[Spilner521]

C2;218043']A turbocharger is cheaper than $500 (you said less than anything there, and nitrous is about 500) and would give you 240HP at the wheels? When did this happen? Lol. Links. Now. :ninja:

He is referring to the whole list...basically for 3k you could get more from a turbo than 3k worth on n/a...correct me if I am wrong spilner

Yes I was referring to the whole list. You can build your own turbo kit to make around 240hp to the wheels on stock internals for less than buying everything on that list. 240 to the wheels is what...280ish at the flywheel? I personally wouldn't push more than that on stock internals.

[Alero2k4]

Well when GM tested the Eco, they had to run a 250+ shot of nitrous to get the engine to blow. They put out something like 350 at the crank...the downside is that all four con-rods simultaneously snapped...280 at the crank is probably a good point to stop...