View Full Version : Ld9 Engine Rebuild
DOHC_tuner
06-08-2007, 08:07 PM
Okay well I decided to rebuild my LD9. I jacked up the HO and noticed the water pump is leaking through its weep hole:eek: . So I started to get to it then decided I might aswell rebuild this HO. Well I will be needing all the help I can get. My cousin is lending me a cherry picker from his work and I plan to buy an engine stand at autozone. So far I gotton is I removed the passenger side engine mount and having a lil trouble getting the dam exhaust pipe off the exhaust manifold. I removed the intake manifold right now just to get something done till I get the pulley puller to remove the crank pulley. Or should I just wait till I get the LD9 out of the engine bay and on a stand? How many engine mounts are there I see two, and should I pull it out with the tranny? again i need all the help i can get, on with the pics.
this is what i have done so far. Is it normal to have oil around the intake ports? Any experts in rebuilding the HO please help? thankz:yahoo:
NoSweat83
06-09-2007, 01:19 AM
What are you trying to get out of your motor in the end? Are you looking for a general rebuild, boost, nitrous, or a N/A application? Anyway you go you will be able to find good info here, http://www.j-body.org/, and http://www.quad4forums.com/.
spyhunter
06-09-2007, 01:28 AM
to take out 2.4L motor and tranny in one piece...
-wiring harness, fuel rail, power steering pump... remove all from engine, and move it ALL to the right side of the engine bay. EVEN THE SENSORS THAT GO TO THE FANS, BRAKES EVERYTHING. GET ALL WIRING THAT MAY GET CAUGHT WHEN PULLING MOTOR ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE BAY.
-jack up front end, remove wheels
-remove your axles
-remove exhaust downpipe
-remove intake manifold
-leave crank pulley on, you can do it when motor is out of car
-remove engine mounts front and rear complete out of car..
-unbolt the upper engine mount and lower engine mount
-remember to drain all coolant, oil, tranny fluid to ease removal
-remove all coolant lines going to and from the engine (clean up mess)
-remove ignition wiring clusterfuck put with rest of wiring...
-remove shifter linkage and throttle cable move out of way.
-remember ALL and anything that is electrical and plugs into the tranny or engine must be removed or you'll tear your wiring harness up when pulling motor.
-remember all coolant lines that go to firewall, radiator, or coolant tank must be detached from motor
-shift linkage and throttle cable remember REMOVE THEM!
-it helps when pulling the motor to have the radiator removed from car as it gives you more wiggle room.
-you need a second person to help when you're pulling with cherry picker at least.
that's a general idea of what you need to do. in pulling the motor
NoSweat83
06-09-2007, 01:34 AM
^ LOL! Thats better than a Hanes manual!
By the way when you say HO are you refering to the AlerHO or a High Output motor? That could be confusing to some.
Headstrong2740
06-09-2007, 01:44 AM
Im glad some one said to get the harness all the way to the right... seems obvious.. but if its your first time... yeah.. not an easy task at hand. He is rigth in saying to have a second person with the cherry picker..
when i pulled mine... it got caught up some on the master cylander... so having the second person to pull the whole motor to the left and front helped alot!! i had my motor pulled out in about a day and half ... we didnt work on it the full time but came out fast. the hardest part is getting the exhaust unmounted... i left the header and unbolted the flange... seemed easiest way to do it.
DOHC_tuner
06-09-2007, 08:46 PM
I have to remove the axles? I plan to run boosted but not yet. I will be installing the pacesetter headers with a magnaflow hi flow cat and a megan mgt muff, pluss I want to overbore the heads and add some overbore vavle relief pistons and eagle rods, modify the block for the 2.3 oil pump (maybe if I can do it or have a machine shop do it and how much their charge) HO intake manifold with the 56mm tbody, and not sure what cams to run i want a big lift but dont want to have to modify the HO cams to fit along with messing with the cam housing and the cps any ideas on where is a best buy to get good lift cams that are bolt and play. Port n polish the head and maybe get ss vavles, and maybe just maybe put on a 5-speed getrag also depending on available funds. I'll just forget the headers if I find a turbo manifold and turbo with charge pipes for sell. But Im just starting so please help. Any visual pics of where all the mounts are and how to get to them?
spyhunter
06-09-2007, 10:38 PM
I have to remove the axles? I plan to run boosted but not yet. I will be installing the pacesetter headers with a magnaflow hi flow cat and a megan mgt muff, pluss I want to overbore the heads and add some overbore vavle relief pistons and eagle rods, modify the block for the 2.3 oil pump (maybe if I can do it or have a machine shop do it and how much their charge) HO intake manifold with the 56mm tbody, and not sure what cams to run i want a big lift but dont want to have to modify the HO cams to fit along with messing with the cam housing and the cps any ideas on where is a best buy to get good lift cams that are bolt and play. Port n polish the head and maybe get ss vavles, and maybe just maybe put on a 5-speed getrag also depending on available funds. I'll just forget the headers if I find a turbo manifold and turbo with charge pipes for sell. But Im just starting so please help. Any visual pics of where all the mounts are and how to get to them?
Fug it, I'm going to go take pictures of under my hood right now and i'll show you, okay maybe monday.
DOHC_tuner
06-09-2007, 10:41 PM
hell yeah, I appreciate it spy, cause i cant wait to get the beast done so I can beat all the honda buddys at my work. Take pics of everything that you can if possible step by step (well I guess thats a bit too much but any help will work)
spyhunter
06-10-2007, 10:21 AM
hell yeah, I appreciate it spy, cause i cant wait to get the beast done so I can beat all the honda buddys at my work. Take pics of everything that you can if possible step by step (well I guess thats a bit too much but any help will work)
I'll do step by step if you have an engine stand and a cherry picker shipped to my house along w/ a 20 gallon air compressor.
DOHC_tuner
06-10-2007, 01:50 PM
what happened to the pics spy?
spyhunter
06-11-2007, 03:06 AM
what happened to the pics spy?
I don't have keys to the shop, so essentially i couldn't get in on saturday because Trev jumped out of the shop early, and Sunday is drinking day.
You'll have to wait patiently until monday which can be used buying yourself a Haynes and Chilton manual and scouring the internet for a GM shop manual for your model year.
DOHC_tuner
06-11-2007, 05:57 PM
I don't have keys to the shop, so essentially i couldn't get in on saturday because Trev jumped out of the shop early, and Sunday is drinking day.
You'll have to wait patiently until monday which can be used buying yourself a Haynes and Chilton manual and scouring the internet for a GM shop manual for your model year.
I got a haynes manual but its does not specify how the engine removal chapter how many mounts and how to take off the mounts. I have an automatic by the way. well its monday got some pics on the how to? I really need help on this and I want to do it, if I dont get help im probaly just going to do the top end head on up. Please help, thankz;)
DOHC_tuner
06-11-2007, 11:16 PM
bump>>>
spyhunter
06-12-2007, 12:40 AM
I got a haynes manual but its does not specify how the engine removal chapter how many mounts and how to take off the mounts. I have an automatic by the way. well its monday got some pics on the how to? I really need help on this and I want to do it, if I dont get help im probaly just going to do the top end head on up. Please help, thankz;)
the mounts are located at the front slightly to the right, at the back by the exahaust and if you look by the coolant resoivoir tank you'll see a mount and also if you look past the drivers side wheel past the fender liner there is another mount.
EASY!
spyhunter
06-12-2007, 12:42 AM
If you fly me out to TX I'll have your motor out QUICK! If I'm well compensated. heh.
Do you have air tools?
DOHC_tuner
06-12-2007, 01:57 PM
I can get air tools and a compressor
DOHC_tuner
06-13-2007, 10:53 PM
Okay today I disconnected alot of sensors so now I can so the whole block down with alot of room. I just need to know what bolts to remove from the engine to the tranny? Is it the first or the second pic?
spyhunter
06-15-2007, 06:18 PM
remove the starter and let me ask you seriously.
you don't know where your engine stops and your transmission starts?
DOHC_tuner
06-15-2007, 11:08 PM
remove the starter and let me ask you seriously.
you don't know where your engine stops and your transmission starts?
yeah I already removed the starter
DOHC_tuner
06-17-2007, 04:21 PM
Do I remove the red or blue bolts? Im confused cause it the engine then the flex plate housing (the book calls it the bellhousing cover then the tranny i think. So please help thankz
TheMeaningOfLife
06-17-2007, 04:54 PM
The way it looks the red will remove the whole tranny and leave you with just the engine.
DOHC_tuner
06-17-2007, 08:59 PM
I only found 2 bolts on the flywheel is this correct? I turned the crank again just to make sure but just asking to clarify. thankz
spyhunter
06-17-2007, 09:24 PM
Never played w/ an automatic tranny. couldnt' tell you, except go by what the manual says. Which for the record my manual is back at the shop.
Any bolt that connects the block (black part) to the tranny (silver/grey) you need to remove, and they are located all the way around....
That lil photo of the removed starter showing your flexplate/flywheel obviously shows you the where the transmissions bellhousing meets the engine (darker coloured metal. use that as a centerline and find all the bolts holding both halfs together and pop them out.
COME ON MAN! 1+1=2
DOHC_tuner
06-17-2007, 09:39 PM
Never played w/ an automatic tranny. couldnt' tell you, except go by what the manual says. Which for the record my manual is back at the shop.
Any bolt that connects the block (black part) to the tranny (silver/grey) you need to remove, and they are located all the way around....
That lil photo of the removed starter showing your flexplate/flywheel obviously shows you the where the transmissions bellhousing meets the engine (darker coloured metal. use that as a centerline and find all the bolts holding both halfs together and pop them out.
COME ON MAN! 1+1=2
okay I have already done that now do I pry the engine to the side away from the tranny? And how do I pry the dam thing? thankz
jayson_waltz
06-17-2007, 10:12 PM
my dad and i just used a cherry picker and lifted mine pretty much straight up while 1 of us pushed on it to make sure it just missed the tranny, it actually came out really quick and easily. bout a minute to lift it out. o and take the hood off obviously it makes the process a lot easier.
DOHC_tuner
06-17-2007, 10:16 PM
how did you seperate it from the tranny?
jayson_waltz
06-17-2007, 10:33 PM
if you took all the bolts out by turning the flywheel and making sure they are all out, you might have to pry, bump, pull, or whatever to get the engine to separate from the tranny. sometimes it sticks on the pins. Mine came right out no problem from unhooking the first plug to on an engine stand in about 1 hour. Thats all I can really tell you, sorry if I didn't really answer your question.
DOHC_tuner
06-17-2007, 10:59 PM
yeah that helps at least your not a smart ass about it like other people on here. how many bolts did you have on the flywheel? And what first plug are you refering to?
DOHC_tuner
06-18-2007, 12:14 AM
What can I do to the auto tranny so it can withstand the heavy mods I plan to do to the engine? I heard its only good up to 250hp, what if I plan to go beyond that? thanzk
jayson_waltz
06-18-2007, 12:00 PM
yeah that helps at least your not a smart ass about it like other people on here. how many bolts did you have on the flywheel? And what first plug are you refering to?
lol actually first plug i was talking about just starting to take the enigne out when you first take things apart, so just disregard that. but i can't really remember how many bolts there were on the flywheel, thinking maybe 4 but i'm not sure.
spyhunter
06-18-2007, 04:21 PM
yeah that helps at least your not a smart ass about it like other people on here. how many bolts did you have on the flywheel? And what first plug are you refering to?
YOU NEED THIS! JUST BUY IT! THAT WILL HELP YOU MORE THAN YOU CAN EVER ASK FROM ANYBODY ON ANY FORUM, MESSAGE BOARD, PHONE CALL, DEALERSHIP, ANY AND EVERYWHERE. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Pontiac-Grand-Am-Olds-Alero-Factory-Service-Manual_W0QQitemZ320127727113QQihZ011QQcategoryZ342 32QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
DOHC_tuner
06-18-2007, 06:33 PM
YOU NEED THIS! JUST BUY IT! THAT WILL HELP YOU MORE THAN YOU CAN EVER ASK FROM ANYBODY ON ANY FORUM, MESSAGE BOARD, PHONE CALL, DEALERSHIP, ANY AND EVERYWHERE. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Pontiac-Grand-Am-Olds-Alero-Factory-Service-Manual_W0QQitemZ320127727113QQihZ011QQcategoryZ342 32QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
WOW that is real nice. I was looking for somewhere to get some scamatics or blue prints of the engine. thankz that helps a lot.
DOHC_tuner
06-18-2007, 08:08 PM
Okay well until I get that manual am I suppose to yank it to the pass. side to release it from the tranny?
DOHC_tuner
06-18-2007, 09:59 PM
I DID IT AND ALL BY MYSELF!!!!
i finally got the engine free from the tranny. Now remember I am new to this so im learning as I go. I removed all the bolts neccesary and still it wouldn't budge. So I reread the appropriate chapters on the haynes manual and read all the post back on this thread so I trouble shooted to observe all the mounts and I found the issue. There is a brace that connects the axel to the engine on the passenger side on the bottom. I removed the 2 bolts that connect the brace to the engine yet missed one hidden away in the darknees :) I realized I could not get to it so I removed the bolts to the axel and as soon as I removed the two BOOM the engine fell free!!!! I felt so HAPPY I effn yelled a bunch of shit and all the neighbors were just looking freaking out. YET THERES A CATCH, before I realized the brace was still holding the engine I tried to jack up the engine hoping it would free itself then I heard a POP or a SNAP then trans fluid started to leadk:eek: I droped it back down and it stop so should I be worried? Oh well I funkn did it and with no ones help, oh yeah ya'll on here thankz, now Im going to pick up the hoist tomorrow and start step two in LD9 ENGINE REBUILD.......
spyhunter
06-18-2007, 11:46 PM
it's a good deal for that set of manuals. They easily can go upwards of $120.. I paid $100 brand new on ebay a while back for a set for the 2001 model year.
jayson_waltz
06-19-2007, 11:21 PM
YET THERES A CATCH, before I realized the brace was still holding the engine I tried to jack up the engine hoping it would free itself then I heard a POP or a SNAP then trans fluid started to leadk:eek: I droped it back down and it stop so should I be worried?
yea about that... its probably not good. but if its a just a crack in the case on the low pressure side, JB weld it and you will be fine. My trans case got cracked and started leaking inside a bolt hole, but it was on the low pressure side so I stuffed some silicone in the hole before I put the bolt in and its been good for over a year already.
DOHC_tuner
06-20-2007, 06:08 PM
I got the engine out yesterday with the help of my cousin. Yet there is one down side to it here are the pics, the last one is of the bottom bolt that bented and crack the housing of the torque converter.
Does fluid flow through the cracked area and if not should I just use some jbweld? thankz
spyhunter
06-20-2007, 08:11 PM
quick favor that part which is all bent out of shape... clean it completely off, and draw an arrow where there is supposedly a crack, and take a picture on the other side where that bolt is at if possible.
DOHC_tuner
06-20-2007, 08:18 PM
yeah sure i'll do that but tommorrow cause me and my girl just came back from red lobster and now its time to well you know....
2fst4u
06-21-2007, 08:40 AM
who gets on aleromod in the middle of a date night?.....fag
TheMeaningOfLife
06-21-2007, 10:45 AM
Yea thats attractive, "hey check out diz site i goes to for my car!" Ill have to do this myself next time.:haha:
DOHC_tuner
06-21-2007, 01:45 PM
who gets on aleromod in the middle of a date night?.....fag
I been waiting to post these pics of pulling the engine, and iam not a fag I get laid everyday for your info. But can some non jealous individuals help with the bented bolt on the tranny?
tr4v1sf
06-21-2007, 09:15 PM
I get laid everyday for your info.
using your hand doesn't count as getting laid :haha:
NoSweat83
06-21-2007, 10:12 PM
using your hand doesn't count as getting laid :haha:
:haha: LOL!!:haha: You better believe that thing's got a shelf-life!:jk:
DOHC_tuner
06-21-2007, 11:39 PM
ha ha very funny:cool: , anywayz I finally got my HO intake manifold from mantapart in the mail today. I was under the usumption that it had a welded on 2.4 flange but instead they modified the flange for the 2.4 head. heres a pic
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_114.jpg
billytheman1188
06-22-2007, 01:06 AM
ha ha very funny:cool: , anywayz I finally got my HO intake manifold from mantapart in the mail today. I was under the usumption that it had a welded on 2.4 flange but instead they modified the flange for the 2.4 head. heres a pic
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_114.jpg
very niiiceeee......how long is this gonna take you???
spyhunter
06-22-2007, 04:20 AM
they used to have a picture of it w/ a welded 2.4L flange... guess they changed it and got lazy.
How much did you pay?
DOHC_tuner
06-22-2007, 01:57 PM
they used to have a picture of it w/ a welded 2.4L flange... guess they changed it and got lazy.
How much did you pay?
yeah I saw the pic on their site with a welded flange. I paid 190 yeah alot but I couldn't find any not one HO engine in the junkyard. Now i wish i waited cause some people are selling theres for like 100. oh well Im just sooooo happy I fuckn got the dam thing, I love the look of the 2.3 HO intake manifold, only downside is it weights alot.
DOHC_tuner
06-22-2007, 01:59 PM
very niiiceeee......how long is this gonna take you???
not exactly sure how long it will take cause now Im debating about taking the tranny out to rebuild it too. I want to add some NOS also so I want to make sure my tranny can accept the power.
NoSweat83
06-22-2007, 06:45 PM
ha ha very funny:cool:
Just giving ya a hard time dude. What kind of nitrous are you looking into?
DOHC_tuner
06-22-2007, 06:48 PM
Just giving ya a hard time dude. What kind of nitrous are you looking into?
well ive been thinking it over and now im probably gonna hold off on the juice until i finish paying off the HO. I really should wait on rebuilding the engine but all I owe is like 800 bucks.
Oldsman
06-22-2007, 08:13 PM
the tranny should be good for a shot of N2O. the biggest shot safely on the 2.4 is 75 wet shot anymore and it could cause issues if not built and tuned right.
DOHC_tuner
06-22-2007, 08:14 PM
the tranny should be good for a shot of N2O. the biggest shot safely on the 2.4 is 75 wet shot anymore and it could cause issues if not built and tuned right.
thankz for the info
Spilner521
06-23-2007, 05:52 PM
I thought you wanted to go turbo with the built engine? If that's the case, ditch the nitrous idea.
NoSweat83
06-23-2007, 06:13 PM
I thought you wanted to go turbo with the built engine? If that's the case, ditch the nitrous idea.
I am not saying go with nitrous but, why ditch it?
DOHC_tuner
06-23-2007, 06:34 PM
I can go boost and nitrous right? Well anywayz I need help finding some good wiesco pistons and eagle rods, wheres the best place to get them? Im not going to overbore now hopefully I dont have to once I get the engine to the machine shop. Im getting a T3/T4 turbo for now then later upgrade to a bigger garrett turbo
MixtapeMessiah
06-23-2007, 06:50 PM
I coulda sold you my 2.3 intake mani with welded 2.4 tb for cheap cheap, oh well
DOHC_tuner
06-23-2007, 06:53 PM
I coulda sold you my 2.3 intake mani with welded 2.4 tb for cheap cheap, oh well
didnt you just by it from spy and had problems with it
NoSweat83
06-23-2007, 06:58 PM
I can go boost and nitrous right?
Of course you can look at spilner's setup. That's why I was wondering why he said that. Like oldsman said if you do decide to use nitrous use wet and not dry.
DOHC_tuner
06-23-2007, 10:19 PM
I would love to have a setup like spilners, just need help finding the parts for it. I ordered a T3/T4 turbo from ebay(i know but I just want something to start with then I'll get a bigger rated HP turbo)heres a link ya'll tell me what ya'll think
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-T3T4-T04E-HYBRID-TURBO-CHARGER-AR50-OIL-LINE_W0QQitemZ120133824523QQihZ002QQcategoryZ33742 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
DOHC_tuner
06-23-2007, 11:36 PM
where can I get some wiesco pistons and eagle rods for the ld9 alero?
MixtapeMessiah
06-24-2007, 02:30 AM
carcustoms.net
MixtapeMessiah
06-24-2007, 02:31 AM
didnt you just by it from spy and had problems with it
nah he forgot to send me a bolt, but I got it already so its all gravy
Spilner521
07-01-2007, 05:32 PM
Of course you can look at spilner's setup. That's why I was wondering why he said that. Like oldsman said if you do decide to use nitrous use wet and not dry.
I don't have nitrous. I said ditch the nitrous with boost idea because you're putting all kinds of strain on the engine already with boost. Nitrous hits so much harder and more violently than boost that you really increase risk of blowing something up unless it's absolutely, 100% perfectly tuned. It's doable, but the tuning is very, very critical, I'm talking hours upon hours on a dyno to get everything perfectly dialed in. I personally would never use nitrous on a turbo engine, but that's just me.
DOHC_tuner
07-01-2007, 06:41 PM
I don't have nitrous. I said ditch the nitrous with boost idea because you're putting all kinds of strain on the engine already with boost. Nitrous hits so much harder and more violently than boost that you really increase risk of blowing something up unless it's absolutely, 100% perfectly tuned. It's doable, but the tuning is very, very critical, I'm talking hours upon hours on a dyno to get everything perfectly dialed in. I personally would never use nitrous on a turbo engine, but that's just me.
exactly thats why im going to hold off on nitrous for right now. I first want to get a feel of the boost and learn how to lay down a good tune. Then when I get another vehicle i can spend time on the dyno as much as i need. Hey spliner does your intake pipe connect to the other inlet of the intercooler or where does that inlet on the drive side of the intercooler go? thankz
Spilner521
07-01-2007, 09:39 PM
exactly thats why im going to hold off on nitrous for right now. I first want to get a feel of the boost and learn how to lay down a good tune. Then when I get another vehicle i can spend time on the dyno as much as i need. Hey spliner does your intake pipe connect to the other inlet of the intercooler or where does that inlet on the drive side of the intercooler go? thankz
I have the hot side pipe running from the turbo, to the passenger side, down into the fender area, and connected to the intercooler. I have the cold side pipe running from the intercooler into the driver side fender area and up through the whole where the stock intake tube used to be, up and around the battery and over to the throttle body.
NoSweat83
07-01-2007, 09:49 PM
I don't have nitrous.
Then what is the block with 4 hard lines comming off it to the intake manifold for?
DOHC_tuner
07-02-2007, 12:00 AM
Then what is the block with 4 hard lines comming off it to the intake manifold for?
those are his extra injectors shooting right through the ports of the runners of the intake to the ports of the head. He tuned it by ear and a knob and a great job too
DOHC_tuner
07-02-2007, 12:01 AM
I have the hot side pipe running from the turbo, to the passenger side, down into the fender area, and connected to the intercooler. I have the cold side pipe running from the intercooler into the driver side fender area and up through the whole where the stock intake tube used to be, up and around the battery and over to the throttle body.
yeah i thought so
Spilner521
07-11-2007, 04:29 AM
those are his extra injectors shooting right through the ports of the runners of the intake to the ports of the head. He tuned it by ear and a knob and a great job too
I tuned it by ear? Last time I checked I couldn't see my AEM Wideband A/F gauge through my ear...
But yes, those are fuel lines for the extra injectors. My new setup will have a rail for the extra injectors instead of individual lines.
Headstrong2740
07-11-2007, 09:42 AM
I tuned it by ear? Last time I checked I couldn't see my AEM Wideband A/F gauge through my ear...
But yes, those are fuel lines for the extra injectors. My new setup will have a rail for the extra injectors instead of individual lines.
im just curiouse as to why you used extra injectors? I mean was it because you kept the stock ones in and are running more for the extra fuel shots... or did you upgrade and have the extra for a diff. purpose. Im running the 750cc fuel inj. with a 250 liter per hour fuel pump..... im just curiouse with that as to why you need the extra shots of fuel in the intake before it even hits the port of the head with the other injectors.
spyhunter
07-11-2007, 09:55 PM
for extre fuel perhaps? since that was his way for solving adding additional fuel?
DOHC_tuner
07-11-2007, 10:13 PM
okay i was going to start another thread for part 2 of the rebuild LD9 and title it parts for the rebuild. But since this thread is still receiving posts well here it is. I currently am in the process of buying everything that i need for the project. I already sent the block to the shop so now waithing on them. It took me 3 hours to tear the engine down to the block. I just got my t3/t4 turbo in the mail today(looks funkn beatiful!)will the turbo manifold for a Z24 work on the Alero?( pic down below) I am new to turbo to please help anyone, thankz
and heres some pics also of the High Output Intake Manifold with the tabs grinded off with an angle grinder, real easy to do
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_119.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_120.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_117.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2557000-2557999/2557055_118.jpg
spyhunter
07-12-2007, 05:58 PM
ahh that's a top mount turbo manifold... It should clear the hood no problem, and from the looks of it, I believe it shouldn't make the turbo hit the firewall at all. Only you test fitting it will tell. Nobody I have seen is running that manifold yet except maybe one or two jbody guys.
That's a reallly new manifold to come to market.
DOHC_tuner
07-12-2007, 06:21 PM
yeah I dont believe I'll will have an issue with it hitting the hood, but maybe with the firewall. So should I buy it and just try and see or does anyone else know? Considering spy doesnt know probably no one else knows:( help
alerojack
07-12-2007, 06:49 PM
thats a nice looking turbo manifold, where did you buy that from? i also have the log style but is not as nice looking as that one and the turbo also mounts on the back side of the manifold.
DOHC_tuner
07-12-2007, 07:02 PM
I havent bought it yet, I typed in Z24 turbo manifold on ebay and thats what came up.
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