Changing your springs

[Molson]

submitted by Sound Xtreme
Ok, first off. You are going to need a decent air compressor and a GOOD impact gun to make things go smoothly. You will need a good metric socket set also. You really dont need a spring compressor if you have a friend handy. You will also need a hammer and probably a punch.

And for safety use jack stands please.

First lets start with som basics. Open the hood. In the 2 corners near the windshield there are 2 bubble lookin things, these are your strut towers. They have 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the outside part and on big nut in the center. The center nut is compressed pretty good and you may need to spray them with some PB blaster and any rust inhibitor. You can go ahead and do this right away and let it soak while you get started on some other things.

Alright, now jack the car up in the center to a decent height(really, it just needs to be high enough to get the wheel off). Put 2 jack stands up front(you can see little indentations where they can go) on each side. Lower the jack so the car rests on the jack stands. Go ahead and take both of the wheels off(also you arent supposed to use an impact gun to put them back on but can be used to take them off, I used it to put them back on anyways though)
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908226/large.jpg

Next, you should have your hood open. You will need to take off the 2 small nuts and the small bolt on top off of the strut tower from the first assembly you want to do. Just use a rachet for these and have at it
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908224/large.jpg

Alright now go look down on that assembly by the brake assembly a little above and behind that also there are 2 bolts with nuts on the other side. Take the impact gun and have at it on both of the nuts till they come off. You again may need to use some PB blaster on them.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908227/large.jpg

Now you may have noticed already that those bolts dont exactly come out on there own. they are grooved makin it a tight fit. SO, just grab a hammer and pound them till they come out. You may need to use a punch if they dont fly out. Dont worry these are pretty tough bolts, but still be careful with them.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908242/large.jpg

Ok, now the cool part. Push in towards the car on the assembly. It should pop off of the brake assembly and kind of fall out. It can be kind of hard finding the way to get them out of there but there is ONE way to get them out without unhooking anything else.

Now you have the whole suspension assembly in your hands, cool huh?
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908229/large.jpg

Just stand it on the ground and have at that center nut with your impact gun. BE CAREFUL THOUGH! The front springs are quite compressed and if you go fast things will fly away and could injure someone or even worse, you could lose that part. :lol:
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908230/large.jpg

[Molson]

The very top piece of the assembly is called the bearing plate, the next rubbery peice is the boot, then the spring(which you need to take out and replace with your new one), and then the strut.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908231/large.jpg

When you change the springs make sure you place the new one in just like the stock one was in there. There is a notch on the boot assembly that need to go on the end of the spring. AND MAKE SURE TO PULL THE STRUT ALL THE WAY UP BY HAND.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908232/large.jpg

Next might take a little skill. You have to kinda have to carefully compress the spring a little (if you dont have a spring compressor) without pushing the strut down at all, then try to slid the bearing plate on top. You should be able to see threads on the strut, if you dont you pushed the strut down some, try again. Once you see threads get that nut on there.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908233/large.jpg

Once you get the nut started tighten it down with the impact gun.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908234/large.jpg

Now you are ready to put the car back together. Make sure the bearing plate is positioned correctly before you wiggle it back up in there.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908236/large.jpg

Here is a pic of a good way to get everything aligned
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908237/large.jpg

Finally start putting all the bolts and nuts back in. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN ANY!

NOW, go do the other side the same exact way.



Now that you got the front done time for the back! YIPPEE!! :roll:

You will not be able to use jack stands very easily. so just be careful. there is a place right in the center of the rear in the middle of the crossmember. Go ahead and take the wheels off again.

The back suspension is a little different. Pop your trunk and unscrew all of the little plastic things holding you carpet to your car. Then pull back the carpet in the corners of the middle of the car towards the rear exposing the rear strut towers. Instead of having 2 small nuts, 1 small bolt and one big nut on top of the strut tower, there is one small and one big nut on top and 2 small bolts you have to get from under the strut tower. But the bottom 2 bolts are the same as the front so I am not going to explain that again.

Remove the top small nut first
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908243/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908244/large.jpg

Next, go look up from under the car and you should see the head of the 2 bolts you can see in the last picture. Have at em.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908245/large.jpg

After that have at the 2 bottom bolts and nuts. Once those are out it might take some wiggling around and there is only one way to get these in/out too. And this is the only way I have found.
http://www.pbase.com/image/13908249/large.jpg

The assembly once out of the car is basically the same as the front. just take off the center big nut and be careful and go slow again. take it all apart and put it back together just like the fronts. Put the suspension back in just the way you took it out. but for the bottom 2 bolts and nuts, you have to get the bottom one in before you can put the top one in. Put the whole car back together.

And there you have it, you are done lowering your car. The springs will settle with time, some take longer than others(settle means you will get a more noticable drop with a little time)


submitted by SweetAlero99
2 thing id like to touch on...........

1. as mentioned above..... be very careful when taking apart the front assemblies. the spring is very compressed and as joel said..... someone could get hurt if you take it apart to fast.......... the back is no problem though... but still be careful...

2.ummmm ya.......... make sure your turning all the bolts the right way. remember......... righty tighty....... lefty loosey. hahaha this could end up saying you up to and hour worth of work....... right joel and james.....haha

[htodac]

How much of a drop are those springs and do you have picture of the car completed???

[Voodosoup]

I believe the intrax drop is like 1.75-2". Do a search for intrax on the site you should be able to find the answer you're looking for.

http://www.pbase.com/image/14586589/large.jpg

[cold45]

I am planning on using 18 in rims in the summer with my summer tires and put my factory 16in back on in the winter. (this is to keep my nice rims looking good b/c of the bad winters we have in winnipeg). what is the most i can lower my car so it will look good with the 18's on but also not be to low with the 16's on in the winter. we also have bad pot holes in the spring.

thanks
justin

[BLK03GXS]

Nice walk thru...
However do i notice that you are using NON IMPACT sockets/exentions with an impact?? or at least it looks that way...
not too cool.... :rolleyes: lol
Dont do like them kids :P

Oh and btw cold45... your car will be the same hight with the stock rims as it would be with the 18's... unless you go with REALLY low pro tires...
Most likely the 18's will be close the same rolling stock as the factory rubber... otherwise your speedo would be out.

[dopey]

Originally posted by BLK03GXS@May 15 2004, 06:25 PM

However do i notice that you are using NON IMPACT sockets/exentions with an impact?? or at least it looks that way...
not too cool....
we've never had a problem......... and weve had suspensions on and off cars prolly 50+ times

[BLK03GXS]

Thats all well and good sweet... but with my experance, and my dads... (hes a HD mechainc/VI etc...) its not recomended... your sockets will eventually become rounded out/cracked etc...
Besides i have had non impact extentions explode, it aint cool... but mind you that was using more torque than the struts would requre... but i think you can get the point..

[dopey]

congrats.... u do things ur way.... i do them mine. now piss off

[sound_xtreme]

hehe, ya i've used the non impact sockets with that impact gun all the time. never really had any probs, i broke an extension also....BUT i have also cracked/broken sockets and extensions using the regular ratchet so ya piss off.

[dopey]

like this

[BLK03GXS]

Wow you 2 must be smarter than me :rolleyes:

Thats great you do it your way.... and I will do it mine... but i thout maybe it would be smart to note that to ppl who don't have the HUGE and AWSOME knowledge of Sweet, and Sound_Extreeme... and may be stupid enuff to use regular 1/2 inch drive sockets with an impact and end up hurting themselfs...

Dont jump down my neck asswads... keep your stupidity in the uncencored forum.

Oh and Sound_extreeme you have broken 1/2 inch drive extentions using just a rachet? you must have HUGE arms.... that or you once broke some 1/4inch drive wallmart poop and are getting confused with air tools...

[sound_xtreme]

no, they were craftsman bud.

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@May 16 2004, 12:04 AM
no, they were craftsman bud.
1/4?, 3/8?, 1/2?

[dopey]

i could squash ur head like a melon with my 24 inch pythons....

[sound_xtreme]

1/2. i've cracked more 1/2 then anything else, but i think i've broke just about every size. maybe you just dont use tools very often. lol

[dopey]

wooo

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by SweetAlero99@May 16 2004, 12:10 AM
i could squash ur head like a melon with my 24 inch pythons....
B4 we end up :offtopic:... i call....















BULLpoop! lol
My arms are 19inch.....
lets see the 24's... is that with or without Spinnazz? :rolleyes: :P :D lol

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@May 16 2004, 12:12 AM
1/2. i've cracked more 1/2 then anything else, but i think i've broke just about every size. maybe you just dont use tools very often. lol
Um... are you talking about the size of the socket? or the size of the drive? cus im talking about the size of the driver...
just so we're clear.....

[sound_xtreme]

omfg, you think im a bunnyin retard or something. yes the god damn size of the stupid driver. enough already dippoop.

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@May 16 2004, 12:20 AM
omfg, you think im a bunnyin retard or something. yes the god damn size of the stupid driver. enough already dippoop.
W/e man...
If you break 1/2 drive on a regular basis your doing something wrong IMO, or trying to sound big... or something... I dunno...
i was just bringing up a point about using non impact sockets with an impact...A valid point, in refrence to safety...
Why dont you too just keep your flame-fests in the uncencored... Because its obvious that you too are more interested in causing poop then solving problems.. or at least it seems that way...
As for me i wont post in this thread agen, cus its a waste of eveyones time to read it, when theres allways gunna be a BS post by one of you too jerk-offs at the bottem.

Tristan

[Steve03TropicTeal]

i think its kinda fun to read

[dopey]

u just dont know how to take a joke thats all. yes tru this should be in the uncensored but it jsut kinda happened here.

its just funny to see u get all defensive and try to talk down on people.... we me and joel are jsut goofing around in the first place.

people need to lighten up.

[Oldsmopimp]

You guys ruined a perfectly good How Too post.....
My advice, if you have a question about the how too.....PM the one who posted the thread. A How Too should be one post, no replies.

[Purple&Black]

Okay, a bit of useful information to add...

The two nuts on the two bolts that attach the strut tower to the knuckle (I believe that's the name of it) in the front are 21mm. In the back, they're 19mm. The nut at the top of the bearing plate that holds it onto the strut is 21mm. The hex head of the arm of the strut is 10mm.

You may be able to get the top nut off just with a 21mm socket. If you have trouble and have to hold the top hex head (10mm) with a wrench or vise-grip, then you'll need a 21mm open-end wrench too.

I only mention this because I happened to not have any metric sockets or wrenches larger than 19mm. This way you can see what you got and maybe make a tool run before you start.

[mike2002]

ordering spring tech springs, with kyb gr-2's.....and companies like eibach recomend a "camber kit" or somthing........any truth to that? id assume when im all done i should take it for a 4 wheel alignment??

thanks!

[sound_xtreme]

no truth to that. the camber kit is worthless less you have a lot of drop(in the front at least) even then its not a big deal

[bigd6983]

ordered st springs and kyb gr2's, was wondering if i should just get all new bearing plates and the boot part, id rather have my stock suspension in full in case something happens and i could just swap it back over........

[mike2002]

id like to add somthing to the how to, also, maybe the admins or mods could erase some of the garbage up above......

When you take your strut assembly apart, inside the strut "boot" there is a white rubber spacer, id guess about 2-2.5" tall. remove this from the strut boot. this is your strut bumper. take a hacksaw, or somthing, and cut it at the first indent from the bottom. this should make the bumper about 1/2" shorter than it was before. then re-install it. do this when installing drop springs like springtech/intrax or anyspring that drops it 1.5" or more. when disassembling my springtech/kyb combo, i noticed my bumper had hit the bottom of the strut a few times. this is because the strut is more compressed to begin with, and can bottom out because of this, cutting this bumber gives the strut more "play" before it bottoms out.


also, and this is BIG. it seems that some kyb's do not come with a nut thats as tall as the stock strut. because of this, the kyb nut will not hold the mount to the strut. it seems newer mounts have a 1/2" spacer to compensate for this, some do, some dont. make sure if installing kyb struts, you either have that 1/2" spacer on top of your mount, or you get some washers and put them below your top nut, you can and WILL ruin your strut mounts without it. i didn't have that spacer, and ruined my strut mounts.

[alero_ecotec]

^ pic. flexing is not impressive in the slightest

[chevallero]

Very nice FAQ concerning the springs
It seems to be "doable" at home with friends (strong enough)
My question is alignement after lowering springs (thinking about eibach ones)
Do we need additional parts or the stock ones are enough ?

[alero_ecotec]

yeah, i'd like to know about alignment too? does it have to be done after seplacing the springs............ also, can this be done withougt an impact gun? .....also, couldnt you compress the spring with like some ratcheting straps?

[AGT]

Ratcheting straps is a crazy idea. These springs are meant to hold up something around a ton right? Those straps better be damn good.

[alero_ecotec]

yeah, but when you think about it those things are made out of Nylon, and they make nylon tow ropes, if you had to worry about anything failing it would be the metal mechanism itself....and i'm pretty sure they actually make a tool with the same ratcheting strap concept just a little fancied up to hold the spring off the ground vertically

[alero_ecotec]

plus, if you look on the pictures of installation in the 1st page to this thread, the guy just has one of his friends push down on the spring for him .........and idea if it can be done without an impact gun? of if an alignment is def. needed?

[sound_xtreme]

you dont need spring compressors if your putting drop springs on, only if you are doing stock springs. yes you need to have an alignment everytime you change suspension height. yes they make a "ratcheting tool" they are called spring compressor and local autozones will rent you them for a deposit of like 50 of which you get all back upon return of the tools.

[2fst4u]

I did this mod this weekend with the spring tech springs. it looks great all around. i had aftermarket struts up front, but the stocks in the back aren't doin too well with the drop. i would definately recommend getting new struts. i'm picking some up tomorrow. just make sure you do it before you get the alignment, save yourself the pain of doing it twice.

AND SOMEONE PLEASE EDIT THIS POST, IT'S ANNOYING! ^^

[ryanthefizz]

if im ordering struts and springs wouldnt it be worth while to get boots and the other stuff so i can just take the nuts off the strut tower and the nuts down by the wheels than swap a whole new set in? no compressing needed? seems logical to me.

[bigd6983]

i changed the struts out yesterday, this was actually a piece of cake, tools i would great recommend: impact gun & spring compressor, other than those two normal hand tools will get the rest done, i had this all done in about 5 hours, but thats because i just worked 12 hours and it was about 90 degrees lol without the impact gun this would be such a pain, i got an electric one from harbor freight for like 40 bucks, totally worth the money let me tell you, i got the spring compressors from them as well for like 15 bucks.......and they worked great......through turns body roll was greatly reduced, bumps are absorbed really well, and normal street driving is much more smooth, oem struts were still on my car(93,000 miles) and only one of them would compress back up and it only went 1/3 of the way back up and that took it 2 hours to go that far so needless to say they were shot.......

[sound_xtreme]

Originally posted by bigd6983@Aug 13 2005, 11:16 AM
and only one of them would compress back up and it only went 1/3 of the way back up and that took it 2 hours to go that far so needless to say they were shot.......
Quoted post

they arent really supposed to much. they are nothing like the kyb's. kyb's are gas charged, very different.

[bigd6983]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme+Aug 13 2005, 12:12 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sound_xtreme @ Aug 13 2005, 12:12 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-bigd6983@Aug 13 2005, 11:16 AM
and only one of them would compress back up and it only went 1/3 of the way back up and that took it 2 hours to go that far so needless to say they were shot.......
Quoted post

they arent really supposed to much. they are nothing like the kyb's. kyb's are gas charged, very different.
Quoted post
[/b][/quote]

they didnt at all, except for that one and it was super super slow......like i said they were shot, stock ones for 93000 miles........along with how long the eibachs were on there......definately time

[eag182]

Two things when changing springs:

(1) I have no idea how you are gonna get the plate above the spring off the strut without an impact gun.
(2) Ok. Don't laugh. But remember to tighten your lug nuts when finished, if you dont youll be in for one hell of a ride I will never forget.

[UnoWHO]

just wondering if there is any way to get those pictures to work again so I have a reference. thanks

[UnoWHO]

bump?

[wrightie]

My hat goes off to Sound extreme for writing an excellent how to. I used this and finished my project in no time. Definetly helped having an impact gun. You the man dood.

Wrightie

[SweetNLow]

dont forget to thank me also...... i was the second pair of hands in the pictures

[wrightie]

well then I guess I owe you a friendly thank you as well.


Wrightie

[elitecloud]

would this how to also help when trying to change the upper strute plates?

[sound_xtreme]

yes, however, if you're still on stock springs, you WILL need a spring compressor, and they aren't very fun at all.

[Molson]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@Apr 11 2006, 09:00 AM
yes, however, if you're still on stock springs, you WILL need a spring compressor, and they aren't very fun at all.
Quoted post



yeah, they can be a little tricky. The tool is rentable at most parts outlets, or they can be bought cheap at places like Princess Auto/Harbour Freight. Before I bought a set, when I changed mine I took them down to a friends shop who has a strut tamer. (larger machine for changing springs) which will compress the spring/strut assembly all at once.

If you go with the spring compressor, make sure its attached right, nothing worse then it coming off or swinging around and taking out appendages.

[firstson]

I noticed a lot of people have had problems with their old struts...my car only has 20,000 miles on it. is it necessary to change the struts now?

[AsianAlero]

great how to written here.

now my question is what the guy said about cutting the bumper a 1/2 inch, so the the strut doesnt bottom out really neccesary? its a bumper its supposed to be there just for that.

and second i have intrax springs do i really have to install washer or spacers so i dont damage my mounts?????

any help would be greatly appreciated...

[Gr1m]

bro if u make another post asking about springs im gonna faking kill you with a gun

[Valley olds]

Mike2002: id like to add somthing to the how to, also, maybe the admins or mods could erase some of the garbage up above......

When you take your strut assembly apart, inside the strut "boot" there is a white rubber spacer, id guess about 2-2.5" tall. remove this from the strut boot. this is your strut bumper. take a hacksaw, or somthing, and cut it at the first indent from the bottom. this should make the bumper about 1/2" shorter than it was before. then re-install it. do this when installing drop springs like springtech/intrax or anyspring that drops it 1.5" or more. when disassembling my springtech/kyb combo, i noticed my bumper had hit the bottom of the strut a few times. this is because the strut is more compressed to begin with, and can bottom out because of this, cutting this bumber gives the strut more "play" before it bottoms out.


also, and this is BIG. it seems that some kyb's do not come with a nut thats as tall as the stock strut. because of this, the kyb nut will not hold the mount to the strut. it seems newer mounts have a 1/2" spacer to compensate for this, some do, some dont. make sure if installing kyb struts, you either have that 1/2" spacer on top of your mount, or you get some washers and put them below your top nut, you can and WILL ruin your strut mounts without it. i didn't have that spacer, and ruined my strut mounts.

does the spacer thing only apply to the front struts, or the rear ones as well? I just got my struts, and only the front ones came with a spacer, the rear ones just the nut.

[kevin1114]

can you put spacers after dropping???

[Gr1m]

http://www.ratemyeverything.net/image/5529/0/STFU_and_GTFO.ashx