Time for an Alarm

[Fi-Alero]

Well guys, I have decided to buy an alarm for the Alero this weekend. My budget is around $150-$200 and I can buy off Ebay if that's where the best price is at.
I was looking at either a CompuStar-2W900FM-AS. What I need to know is if there is a better alarm for that price with a 2way pager? I know Viper makes some good ones for that price. I'm looking for a good bit of range from the pager since my car sits at school all day.

Another question: How how would it be to install the remote starter for an Automatic Alero. Is it worth installing one? Or should I just ditch the remote start idea.

All help is appreciated on this. I am open to all suggestions :)

[GoldStar611]

If you're technically inclined, the remote start shouldn't be hard at all with the GM-6 harness, it has all the connections you need but one (which is easilly connected with a resistor).
Oh, don't forget about bypassing PassLock II. Either get an all in one box or make the correct resistor yourself. I'd have to advise you to read this thread that I created when I was installing my alarm+remote start. http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16016&highlight=alarm
I'd personally advise against stripping and soldering, simply because it was a PITA dealing with such short wires; if I could redo my installation again I'd use T taps. Many'll disagree, saying that it's more reliable to solder than use taps, but I say it's a judgement call.
On some sites there's two "GM-6" harnesses listed, but only one has the correct picture next to it. You want the one that looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/T-Harness-GM-Applications/dp/B0004FO2VO

[Fi-Alero]

Thanks Goldstar.
The only advantage to having a remote start is that you can start your car from the remote. It is something that isn't necessary but would be cool. So for remote start, I have to bypass "Passlock II." How exactly do I do that?

DO you have a messenger? I have a few questions as you can tell lol.

[GoldStar611]

I do have msn messenger, which now talks to yahoo messenger as I am finding out, goldstar611 @ hot mail.com

A couple of steps are needed to bypass the passlock security system, and those should be the last posts or so on the first page if I remember correctly.

As to correct my first post, the GM-6 Harness only taps into ONE accessory wire, you should use a DIODE, not a resistor to connect the two without crossing the wires.

[Ryan from Ohio]

When I bought a Bypass at a local shop the friendly guy (Who I talk with all the time) said there are two wires that had to be soldered. Thats due to the current at play.

I would believe that if his bypass was like this, others are to.

Beware.

[GoldStar611]

I used telcom splices and I havn't had any trouble at all with my setup. That way if I want to remove it for any reason (or replace my current setup with dedicated resistors) I can just pop the splice off and I'm good to go. There's going to be some soldering involved, but not necessarily to connect to the passlock wires.

[Fi-Alero]

I really don't think I'm going to do remote start. Seems like a lot of trouble for something I won't really use, or maybe I just don't understand exactly how to do it. I have no problem with soldering, as I solder just about everyday.
If I did not do a remote start, would I still have to bypass the Passlock II?
The alarm I want (the compustar) has a feature where it will control the locks with the ignition, but the Alero already does this, so I won't have to install that right?

[GoldStar611]

If you don't plan on installing a remote start, you don't have to bypass passlock. All the alarm is going to do is make the car think you've pressed the unlock button as you normally do on the inside. It's super simple installing keyless entry/alarm.

[lonnie]

You don't need the bypass module to remote start your car. I just put a switch on one of the passlock II wires and bypass it like that saved me a ton for a bypass module, and for an alarm I use a python paid like 200 for it and its worked flawlessly ever since. I've had it for like 2 years, and I installed my remote start this past summer...no problems.

[meadus101]

But lonnie, If you do that, Won't you throw a Dashboard Light?

[GoldStar611]

Yes it will, but from I've seen people use electic tape to cover it up.

[Fi-Alero]

Does anyone have any suggestions for an alarm for around $150? I do not need remote start lol.

[Fi-Alero]

Well I ordered a ScyTek Galaxy 5000
It has remote start so I guess it will be a learning expierence
Anyone have any tutorials on installing a remote start and bypassing passlockII?

[lonnie]

But lonnie, If you do that, Won't you throw a Dashboard Light?Yeah you will throw a light but you will be still be able to start the car. The switch just disables the system yet still allows the car to start because it dosen't see it as a theft attempt just a problem with the system. To get rid of the light just turn off the car and flip the switch. The process is explained below if you still have any questions I will answer them.
You can do this without adding a remote starter.

PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT

The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles
in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure
is required because a remote start system will not function with the current
Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM
vehicles.

Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction
with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a
procedure to install a remote start/stop system.

CAUSE
If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation
in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this
start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.

CORRECTION
A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started
remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to
select ?ON? to allow remote starting or ?OFF? for normal Passlock operation.

CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON
position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft
deterrent is disabled the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale will light up
indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.

PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline
Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to
disable/
enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is
accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.


NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore
very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be
utilized
for this application.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness in the Column. GM's Passlock
System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the
Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ (http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/) or
http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp (http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp) and select your Make, Model and
Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of
three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut
wire.
Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.


Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when
the switch is in the ON position.
5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine ?cranks but will not
start"
recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
modification wiring.

SWITCH OPERATION

To enable remote start:
Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the
OFF
position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM Telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock
System is inoperative.
Once the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds
the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.

To disable remote start:
The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF
(contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.

Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON
position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets
this condition.

NOTICE
Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control
Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected
harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If
the engine exhibits a ?cranks but will not start? symptom, place the
modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will
reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the
ignition key.

[Fi-Alero]

Goldstar, I added you.

I want to bypass the passlock the right way. I know how to do everything up to when you put on the resistor. What are the steps after that?

[GoldStar611]

basically, you need to know how much resistance the alero wants to see. You can calculate that with an ohm-meter or multi-meter set for resistance (usually denoted by a omega letter). Just like the thread says, measure the resistance between the two wires and write that down. (Please use a digital multimeter here, it's so much easier)

You'll want to add the resistors together in one long strand (called series). So in my case I needed 1660 Ohms of resistance. I can get a 1K ohm resistor, a 500 Ohm resistor, a 100 Ohm resistor, a 50 ohm resistor, and a 10 ohm resistor. (Double check: 1000+500+100+50+10=1660) Solder these together tip to tip, heatshrink/electric tape and bend into a not so bulky shape and connect one side of the resistor to the black wire, and one to the yellow wire going to the CAR (not the key cylinder) with crimp connectors I'd recommend. (fully insulated quick disconnects (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103499)are the ones you want)

By using the right crimp connectors on all the wires and resistors, if you ever need to remove the resistors, you can easily reconnect the left over wires from the ignition harness (key cylinder) back to the BCM. No harm done.

[Fi-Alero]

Thanks Gold, that actually seems extremely easy. Most of the diagrams I've saw required like 3 different relays. I don't cut the black wire right? I just tap into it.

It would be cool if you could get on MSN sometime lol.