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cherrington17
03-19-2008, 09:56 PM
Gotta love delivery day. :yahoo::yahoo:

got me new project.... get'n those beasts in my doors.


anyone got a good idea for how to get a 1" tweeter into our triangle pods?? :p (i'm thinking take the mesh out and possibly dremel the hole a little bigger if need be)


specs

http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/components/picasso-top.gif

FEATURES

Brushed Stainless Steel Finish Stamped Steel Baskets
Woven Glass Fiber/Spruce Pulp Laminate Cones
Inverted Polypropylene Dust Caps
NBR Rubber Surrounds
Black Progressive Conex Spiders
1” Copper Voice Coil on Aluminum Former with Reinforced Neck Joint
Nickel Plated Binding Posts
Rubber Motor Cover with Logos
Vented Pole Pieces
4 Ohm Impedance
1” Teflon/Silk Dome with Resin Coating Tweeters
Neodymium Tweeters Magnets
Ferrofluid Cooling
Multi-Function Mounting Set
Passive Crossover with 12dB Low-Pass and Presence Switch for Midbass, 18dB
High-Pass with 3-Way Sensitivity Switch for Tweeter, Tweeter Protection Circuit
Grills and Mounting Hardware Included

http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/manual-dl.gif (http://www.soundstream.com/owner-manuals.htm)
http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/review-dl.gif (http://www.aleromod.com/forums/)
http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/rec-items.gif
http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/rec-items/wiring-kits.jpg (http://www.aleromod.com/forums/) Wiring Kits (http://www.aleromod.com/forums/)

http://www.soundstream.com/images/products/main/components/pcs_f.jpg

YALEROYNOT
03-19-2008, 10:48 PM
I put 1" tweets in just cut off the clips for the factoy tweets and used a little hot glue. and put them behind the factory mesh. I might cut the hole bigger tho and maybe do a little glassin to them in the future

Ryan from Ohio
03-20-2008, 06:53 AM
Get rid of that ugly mesh... Besides the aiming of the tweeter is horrible!

http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/images/alero/rainbow-sail.jpg

Thats before I finalized it. Grind them open, find the tweeter cup that works the best. Be careful when grinding, take out the least amount of material possible.

Get them aimed correctly. Epoxy in place.

Then take bondo and fill the crack, put a nice fillet in. Sand smooth. Paint flat black or Dollar General Grey Primer (almost exact color match).

Mine are aimed almost right at each other and on a slight downward angle. I get excellent off-axis response and its awesome. Most look at it and dont understand...

cherrington17
03-20-2008, 08:30 AM
its kinda hard to see, but the tweets have like a 1/4" lip around the edge of them (whats holding them in place in the box) then taper down.

so if i mounted them like yours, i'd be a big silver edge on the outside of the "sail" which, i think would look a little goofy given that its a black pod....


unless i grind that edge off, which i'd really like to NOT do.


maybe grind the inside of the "sail" so it fits w/ that edge?

cherrington17
03-20-2008, 08:39 AM
Just a size comparison... i think some fabrication is in my future...


good thing i saved that link to the fiberglassing forum. :p

jackal2000
03-20-2008, 11:41 AM
http://www.forumammo.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10062/thread-delivers.jpg

lonnie
03-20-2008, 02:43 PM
Paint the outer edge to match the middle mesh of the tweeter or the pod. I would set it on the pod and mark around it to get what you need to dremel out. I don't see it being to much of a problem cherry you just have to come up with a way to to secure it in there. I would cut it out slightly smaller then the tweeter and press it firmly in there. I think that would be plenty to keep it in there, and I seriously doubt that we have that much going on around that pod to cause it to fall out. You have sparked my interest thought in seeing how this turns out. What size are the speakers 5.25 or 6.5's?

lonnie
03-20-2008, 02:44 PM
How much was that speaker system? If you don't mind me asking.

...Almost forgot....Do you have a seperate amp for the front speakers and what are your ideas of mounting..or better yet where to mount it. I was think of in the rear, but the thought of running all that wire made me contiplate the issue a little more.

Ryan from Ohio
03-20-2008, 06:18 PM
Thats no bigger than the CAL 25 Tweeter in my pictures ;)

Dremel it out and epoxy in place.

Is there any other tweeters mounts or is that the only one? It has a flange around the outside which will greatly limit your install possibilities and quite honestly make it look like dung.

cherrington17
03-20-2008, 07:09 PM
How much was that speaker system? If you don't mind me asking.

...Almost forgot....Do you have a seperate amp for the front speakers and what are your ideas of mounting..or better yet where to mount it. I was think of in the rear, but the thought of running all that wire made me contiplate the issue a little more.
i paid $137 for the whole thing shipped. I have a 400W 4 channel amp i'm gonna use. one channel for each door, and the other two will be my rears... just cuz. I also just got some adapters from ebay, for the 4x6-6.5" adaption. (so, yes, they are 6.5"s) depth might be an issue, so i might have to make a small wood standoff so the magnet doesn't hit the window.... but it shouldn't be too much of a hassel...

Is there any other tweeters mounts or is that the only one? It has a flange around the outside which will greatly limit your install possibilities and quite honestly make it look like dung.
Good to know its not bigger. and that isn't the mount, thats just the casing around it. the mount is still in the box, and appears to fit up around the base, to that outer lip. its defintely poor design, but i don't think these are meant for the install i'm using them for. :lol:

Ryan from Ohio
03-20-2008, 08:53 PM
Hmm, interesting. Im guessing thats still the flush mount. Simply due to the fact you cant easily get to the solder connection.

Just take a look at my picture I posted. Dremel tool with sanding drum and lots of patience.

lonnie
03-20-2008, 10:25 PM
I'm really not feeling the glueing thing everbody seems to do. What if you want to do something else or change the tweet or have to replace it. Epoxy and glue just seems to permanent to me..at least enough to cause a major problem if you have to take one out for something. That lip could be a good thing..so you don't have to get it exactly clean if you don't want. Cant wait to see more pics and solutions to some of the issues that may arise.

Ryan from Ohio
03-21-2008, 11:44 AM
Epoxy if done right will provide good hold but it will chip off if need be.

lonnie
03-25-2008, 12:52 PM
Where are the updates Cherry? Have you started? Is it done? Did you lose a nut, arm leg, lol something?

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 03:01 PM
haven't started. school/work are getting in the way, not to mention its really cold. (anything under 40 and my hands will go numb w/in minutes) so this project will be about a month away.... :( sorry.

i'll DEFINITELY post results though. (and i just got my adapters in, so i can mount the 6.5s in the 4x6 hole)

lonnie
03-25-2008, 03:03 PM
haven't started. school/work are getting in the way, not to mention its really cold. (anything under 40 and my hands will go numb w/in minutes) so this project will be about a month away.... :( sorry.

i'll DEFINITELY post results though. (and i just got my adapters in, so i can mount the 6.5s in the 4x6 hole)
I understand just checking and when you get a chance I would love to see what those adaptors look like.

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 03:10 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/4x6-to-6-5-6-Speaker-Adapter-97-05-Malibu-Grand-Am_W0QQitemZ310033668466QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item31 0033668466

exact ones i got.

http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/cavpic.jpg

i was expecting plastic.. but they are like pseudo plastic stuff. (they say pvc) it looks like its really easy to work with, but i will have to take a dremel to it. the baskets on these beasts are a little bigger on the inside then the adapter has room for.

but they look like they will stand out far enough so i won't have magnet vs window issues.

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 03:14 PM
the biggest part of the project, is figuring out how/where to mount my amps. i'm not sure if i want to mount them backwards on an angle out from the sub box i have (so they are hidden, and the trunk looks just small and empty) or if i want to make a small rack above my subs to hold them...

i'm pretty sure i have everything i need to finish the job at this point, except for wood, but that'll be this weekend. then its just a matter of time. maybe my dad will help and i'll have it done on this weekend....

lonnie
03-25-2008, 03:56 PM
the biggest part of the project, is figuring out how/where to mount my amps. i'm not sure if i want to mount them backwards on an angle out from the sub box i have (so they are hidden, and the trunk looks just small and empty) or if i want to make a small rack above my subs to hold them...

i'm pretty sure i have everything i need to finish the job at this point, except for wood, but that'll be this weekend. then its just a matter of time. maybe my dad will help and i'll have it done on this weekend....
What about what Ryan did? He has a wall that fills the opening of the trunk and has his amps mounted to it. From the back I'm pretty sure it looks like nothing is back there, and thats what I'm looking to do. All and all I'll have 3amps and 1cross over squeezed back there. The problem is I still use my trunk and I know I'll need that spare in the future so I don't want to have to go throught the bull crap of taking out some elaborate box.

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 04:20 PM
i would... but i'm just not a fan of having an amp wall... i'll have to get some cheap mdf, and take a look... see which i like better.

lonnie
03-25-2008, 07:09 PM
i would... but i'm just not a fan of having an amp wall... i'll have to get some cheap mdf, and take a look... see which i like better.
Got you! I like the idea of an amp wall cause it keeps the amps concealed when the trunk is up. Have you thought about getting any of those kick panels?

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 09:43 PM
not really. passanger side i wouldn't mind, but driver's side, where the kick panel would be, is right where my foot commonly rests. i think my leg would consistantly be killing volume/quality and it'd get coated in salt/mud from my shoes. i'd rather keep them concealed inside the door.

Satsuriku
03-25-2008, 09:48 PM
could even make a little amp rack in the trunk but have the wires hidden (and we both know your good at that!) so it will look a little sharper, just a thought

cherrington17
03-25-2008, 09:52 PM
i do have a little space between my box and the magnets for the 6x9s... so its a possibility.

but what i'm really thinking, is to put two small hinges on the sides of my box, and a piece of wood on each, angling back to the back of the trunk, then mount the amps on the outside of those pieces... so when you look in, you'd just see gray carpet, but if i need to work on any wiring, or check something, i can hinge back back so they are flush with the back of the box....

only problem with that would be how would i get them to stay in the fixed "out" location... hmm...



is it me, or do i take a relatively easy project and make it WAY more complicated? :lol:

Satsuriku
03-25-2008, 10:08 PM
is it me, or do i take a relatively easy project and make it WAY more complicated? :lol:

chris, i've noticed that with you since you showed me how to properly make LED tubes lol

lonnie
03-27-2008, 10:31 AM
I had a friend here that made a false floor for his car, and all he did was make a template of the trunk floor, and cut out two pieces, then boxed them in and put a hinged lid on it with two pad locks on the front. The whole thing was carpeted and the amps and brains of his system were mounte in there. The best part is that he still had access to the spare tire, by taking out the box and removing the power and signal wires. When you looked in the car it just looked like there was a box in there. I however don't have the time on patiences to tackle a project like that. I dont' think you made it more complicated but its hard to come up with something that works and is asthetically pleasing as well.

cherrington17
03-27-2008, 11:17 AM
yeah.... hence.... more complicated. :lol: i COULD just put two pieces of wood in there, move the amps, run the wire and put in the speakers. but it'd look "noob-ish" and that'd make me want to cry.

lonnie
03-27-2008, 12:26 PM
yeah.... hence.... more complicated. :lol: i COULD just put two pieces of wood in there, move the amps, run the wire and put in the speakers. but it'd look "noob-ish" and that'd make me want to cry.
Ha Ha Ha! Yeah you got a point about that. You could even add a bigger piece of wood to the back of the speaker box and attach them that way.....when its all said and done its what ever works for you that is the best. Did you get crossovers and stuff with those speakers and where are you going mount those?

cherrington17
03-27-2008, 03:08 PM
yes, crossovers are in the box (they are in the top right of the pics) i'm putting one under each seat. buring the wiring under the carpet. i've ran wires through the door rubber hosing (between door and frame) before, and i'd rather do that then have the xover rust up/short inside the door....

lonnie
03-27-2008, 03:10 PM
This is sort of what I'm talking about cherry, of course this would be made in shape of our trunk and be carpeted so that it blends in with the rest of the trunk, and hinge up when you need to work on it. This isn't my friends though just one I found on the internet.

cherrington17
03-27-2008, 04:13 PM
looks good... but its a little too fancy. i'm trying to go for the effect of making it look completely stock, and still keep a decent amount of space. as it stands, the sides are just wasted space anyway (near the wheel wells)

but who knows... i might end up going that way anyway.


i'd LIKE to get it to all fit into my spare compartment, since i don't even have a jack, and my subs are sitting on part of it. (i get a flat, and i gotta call someone) but i think my amps are too big to fit down in there....

lonnie
03-28-2008, 07:46 AM
Oh well I didn't know that you weren't using your spare tire. Hell there are a few more options available then, maybe just making a floor for the bottom of it then simply mounting the amps and stuff in there. If I didn't have these rims thats the way I would go, but due to the high possibility of a tire going bad then I have to have that. The box above would still give you space cause the box would sit on top of it and the whole thing it self wouldn't be much taller then the amps..just enough room for air flow and running cables, and would fill the bottom of the trunk up looking like the floor...at least thats the theory...lol. All those lights and plexi aren't necessary just what this guy chose to do.

cherrington17
03-28-2008, 11:58 AM
thats the thing.... i don't think the amps will fit in the spare-hole. they are each about 15-17" wide...

i'll have to look and find out. :glare:

lonnie
03-28-2008, 12:09 PM
thats the thing.... i don't think the amps will fit in the spare-hole. they are each about 15-17" wide...

i'll have to look and find out. :glare: Alright but in those you have alot of vertical real estate if you know what I mean, so you could stack them not exactly together but sometimes here I have to stack radios because there isn't enough space. I'll draw it up and post it tonight to give you an idea. If it were my project I would cut out a single piece of wood to fit in the bottom, and attach that to the trunk, and if I were concerned about drilling or screwing into the trunk then I would cout it so that it was very snug at the bottom, then I would mount one amp to the wood then make bracket out of two piece's of metal strap that attach to the wood but lifts above the other amp and mount to the bracket.

cherrington17
03-28-2008, 12:53 PM
again, i'm not entirely sure, cuz the amps are rather tall as well.... probably around 10" (both amps are HUGE. :lol: ) i gotta go out and measure the spare-hole

i just got some cheap mdf board, so that'll be easy... i just need to find out HOW/WHERE. lol

and i might throw some cathodes in there just for fun, since have 2 pairs sitting in my room....

lonnie
03-28-2008, 01:07 PM
Yeah I dont know off the top of my head either but I will look as well when I do my headlights either this afternoon or tomorrow. Damn Cherry LOL what do you got DJ amps:lol:. They may not fit in there.

cherrington17
03-28-2008, 02:50 PM
this page has pics of the amp i'm putting in...
http://miami.craigslist.org/pts/619746262.html

and the sub amp...
http://www.tvsdepot.com/image.php?id=39536&s=3
dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 17"L

the first is about the same size as the 2nd... yes... they are big. :lol:

lonnie
03-28-2008, 03:54 PM
this page has pics of the amp i'm putting in...
http://miami.craigslist.org/pts/619746262.html

and the sub amp...
http://www.tvsdepot.com/image.php?id=39536&s=3
dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 17"L

the first is about the same size as the 2nd... yes... they are big. :lol:
Wow they are big :lol: That first one looks like alot of heat sink, cant really make out the size of the second one but I'll take your word on it. I think they will fit! The second one is about the size of my Kenwood excelon as far as the foot print is concerned, and I know I can fit that one in there.

cherrington17
03-28-2008, 04:09 PM
well if yours fits, i guess i could just make a 2 tier box type support, and put a cpu fan or two in there for ventilation...

hmm... that'll save space, and time....

and the first is optimus. company is dead (technically) its an old radioshack brand, actually made by pioneer for them. its UNDERRATED at 400W. actually puts out near 500. which is just unheard of in todays terms.

lonnie
03-28-2008, 07:46 PM
well if yours fits, i guess i could just make a 2 tier box type support, and put a cpu fan or two in there for ventilation...

hmm... that'll save space, and time....

and the first is optimus. company is dead (technically) its an old radioshack brand, actually made by pioneer for them. its UNDERRATED at 400W. actually puts out near 500. which is just unheard of in todays terms.
Well good luck with that cant wait to see pics.

cherrington17
03-29-2008, 10:15 AM
yeah.... won't fit in spare hole.... so back to the idea with the sides....

(the spare part was somewhat veto'd as well. not only will they not fit exactly properly with some wood, but with my parents being insurance agents they jumped all over me and i won't fight that.... they could cancel my policy. :glare: )

YALEROYNOT
03-29-2008, 12:01 PM
I am throwing around the Idea of an amp rack. this is a few of the ideas I am thinking of

http://images.eurotuner.com/featuredvehicles/117697z+2000_bmw_m5_sedan+trunk_view.jpg

or i want to stack my two amps like a stairs on top of each other.

cherrington17
03-29-2008, 12:20 PM
i might do something like that.... if i can pull it off, it'd be slick. keep all my trunk space and loose the little bit of overhead i have

.... but i'm not sure if i have enough length to pull that off. whelp.. back to measuring. :lol:

cherrington17
03-29-2008, 01:20 PM
:( looks like i'm making an amp wall similar to what ryan did. amps are too long for the shelf, and the hinge idea just has too many flaws to be considered much more then a "theory"

damn me and my eff'n huge amps!


but i did get the adapters cut down the the right size and my wiring ran, so its just a matter of getting the wood cut/carpeted, amps mounted/wired, speakers in/wired. :yahoo: its coming together nicely!

Cliff8928
03-29-2008, 01:32 PM
I am throwing around the Idea of an amp rack. this is a few of the ideas I am thinking of

http://images.eurotuner.com/featuredvehicles/117697z+2000_bmw_m5_sedan+trunk_view.jpg

or i want to stack my two amps like a stairs on top of each other.

I have similar much more basic version of that in my Beretta, it works well and doesn't interfere with the trunk space.

lonnie
03-29-2008, 03:35 PM
Wow I'm surprised that you couldn't get those in there I thought for sure they would fit...I'm going to do the amp wall as well I like the stealthyness of it and I think it is alot better then mounting to the seat like they are now.

Dont forget to do the headlight mod, I did it yesterday and it took all for 20 minutes, but I did prep my relays and wires first.

cherrington17
03-30-2008, 11:27 AM
headlight mod?? :huh:

lonnie
03-30-2008, 10:25 PM
headlight mod?? :huh:
Yeah look in the low/high/fog on at the same time thread...its where you get the lows to stay on with the highs as wells as the fogs...all thats needed is couple of relays and some wires and terminals. Pretty cool I think. Did you decide on what you are going to do?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 07:31 AM
i did. pics will be posted later today... :yahoo:

and i'd rather just get HID's... which might be a present next year... until then my silverstars work just fine, but i do think i need to adjust my headlights, they are aimed a little low.

lonnie
03-31-2008, 08:07 AM
i did. pics will be posted later today... :yahoo:

and i'd rather just get HID's... which might be a present next year... until then my silverstars work just fine, but i do think i need to adjust my headlights, they are aimed a little low.Cool can't wait to check them out...and that mod isn't for everybody but its just like anything else I suppose. Are those HID's expensive?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 08:16 AM
oznium has them. 250 by the looks of it. which, back when i was considering it, it was 4-900. so 250 doesn't seem bad for MUCH better view of the road...

lonnie
03-31-2008, 10:26 AM
oznium has them. 250 by the looks of it. which, back when i was considering it, it was 4-900. so 250 doesn't seem bad for MUCH better view of the road...:( Holy shit that's alot of cheese but considering I guess it is a deal....well to say the least I'm cheap, and can't see paying that much, but to each his own. What kind of work are you looking at for an install like that. I would imagine its not just plug and play is it?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 10:36 AM
its relatively plug and play... i'm guessing about as much work as installing these new speakers...

everytime you read about someone on the boards having issues "installing their ballasts" those are for the HIDs. they just have a small box for each light, that converts the power.

lonnie
03-31-2008, 10:51 AM
its relatively plug and play... i'm guessing about as much work as installing these new speakers...

everytime you read about someone on the boards having issues "installing their ballasts" those are for the HIDs. they just have a small box for each light, that converts the power.Oh ok yeah I've heard about these problems but seem to be installer error....maybe. Ever heard the life cycle on one of those ballast..I wouldn't want to pay that much and the ballast only last a short period of time. Now do the lights just sit in the stock locations or do you have to modify that as well? I like the idea of them I just don't like the price.

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 10:58 AM
i'm pretty sure they sit in the stock location. I'd have to research more, if the purchase started getting more realistic. (wouldn't buy it myself... but if my g/f got generous.... :lol: )

alright... back to work. knees have rested.

lonnie
03-31-2008, 11:11 AM
i'm pretty sure they sit in the stock location. I'd have to research more, if the purchase started getting more realistic. (wouldn't buy it myself... but if my g/f got generous.... :lol: )

alright... back to work. knees have rested. Better treat her right then:lol: ! I hear that I have to return a radio to a fire station chat later.

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 04:39 PM
2nd amp in, mostly connected. 1 xover in, 1 tweeter, 1 speaker all in. power all run, tested and functioning (except for a power off "pop") i'm assuming that due to bad ground, or audio wires run near power ones?

eff this is alot of work. espicially when working alone. my bro and dad will be home soon, maybe they can help finish the job tonight.

lonnie
03-31-2008, 05:53 PM
I hear that have you run into any snags getting the speakers in there?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 05:58 PM
a couple. i have my xover out lines running next to both power lines.....

and the GIANT problem of running 16ga power lines over to the speakers through the door grommet...

lastly the magnets are a little too deep still. they hit the window brace. shouldn't be a problem, but it doesn't make my comfortable.

lonnie
03-31-2008, 06:03 PM
Did you put your xovers in the back as well, and what about making the trim ring wider. Are you using a fish tape of any sort to run those wires cause it makes a world of difference for me?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 07:20 PM
i used a coat hanger to fish the wires. it took a little bit of time, but it worked a HELL of alot easier then just doing it normally.

the xovers are under the back of the front seats. there is a little ridge of metal there, that i used some strong plastic velcro-like strips to hold them in place.

and what do you mean make the trim ring wider?

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 07:50 PM
Pics...
The New wall...
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030196.jpg

Just TRY to find the remote wire...
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030192.jpg

The Tweeter Issue
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030189.jpg

Told you they were HUGE amps....
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030199.jpg


Speaker in the Door
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030198.jpg

Trunk View...
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/cherrington17/P1030200.jpg

AANNDD i'm spent.

soo sore. but it sounds great, and when i turn it up... its loud as hell!

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 07:52 PM
the wires will be hid... just need some rest first...

Ryan from Ohio
03-31-2008, 07:56 PM
Dont be scared to hack into them sails. Your blocking a lot of your tweeter and that imaging cant be good at all. It will make a giant difference ;)

I was very hesitant to hack into mine, but I figure I can get a set at the yard for $25 if it ever comes down to needing bone stock.

cherrington17
03-31-2008, 08:44 PM
they sound pretty damn good for now.. and i'm way too sore/aggrivated with how long that took to hack into them now. maybe down the line.


and after setting it all up, my speakers now pop when my h.u turns off.... why is that? bad ground/power near RCAs??

lonnie
04-01-2008, 12:37 AM
I meant make it thicker so that the speaker is pulled alittle futher off of the glass, and you may be getting that pop because of the gain levels on the amp. If you can adjust the gain on the crossovers I would turn them all the way down and same for the amp. Then work my way up to a comfortable level with out the popping. If it isn't your gain settings then you will have to in stall a switch to turn them off before the HU

lonnie
04-01-2008, 12:38 AM
Hey please tell me you wrote the measurements down on that wall cause I want to do that.

cherrington17
04-01-2008, 08:26 AM
i believe it was about 37"x17" the hardest part was doing the two curves at the top.... but i just have 2 L brackets at the bottom and drilled two holes in the top (through the overlapping metal lip)

lonnie
04-01-2008, 10:15 AM
i believe it was about 37"x17" the hardest part was doing the two curves at the top.... but i just have 2 L brackets at the bottom and drilled two holes in the top (through the overlapping metal lip) Oh ok so where you screwed it at the bottom you don't have to worry about the gas tank? It looks really good, where did you get the carpet from?

cherrington17
04-01-2008, 10:43 AM
the carpet is just cheap gray crap from a hardware store. :lol: and its identicle to the color of everything else. it was like $10 for 10 yards. its the same stuff i covered my box with. cheap carpet+spray adhesive+ a dozen staples.

i took a look under the car, and the gas take is mounted under the backseat. the screws are basically directly under the metal overlap, which is nowhere near that. i double, then triple checked before i drilled, but yeah, no problems there. I'm not sure about the sedans, but i'm in the clear for those. plus, i bolted that wall in place, then from the front, put 2 screws back through into the box. so if anyone tries stealing any of it, it won't budge at all....


there is a downside though(as i just found out today... how can i fold my seats down? :lol: doh! i usually pull the strap, then push from the back... and i realized as i did that, i was being dumb and pushing on the wall.:banghead: my dumbass moment of the day. i got it, but i'll have to keep some bungies in my trunk now... until i can rig up some kind of pulley system, going to the backseat..

lonnie
04-01-2008, 12:12 PM
Ha ha Ha I wish I seen you pushing on that wall LMAO! I guess I'll have to get my ass on the ground and see where the tank is for a sedan. I was thinking of that though you know having to put the seats down and it dawned on me that I have kids, and when I need to get them down I'll just call them out...LOL! You do have the wall now you could just remove the latch...I cant see those seat going anywhere....unless of course you were in an accident then it may not be as pleasant. I want to do this this weekend, and I hope I can by a 4X4 piece of MDF or Plywood from Lowes.

lonnie
06-14-2008, 01:27 PM
i believe it was about 37"x17" the hardest part was doing the two curves at the top.... but i just have 2 L brackets at the bottom and drilled two holes in the top (through the overlapping metal lip)
That would be 37 1/2" X 18" Just cut it today now I got to find some damn carpet.

cherrington17
06-14-2008, 06:08 PM
i had a little room going around the outside to snake wires under.... but the carpet filled it in nice so it doesn't look bad at all.


and i got mine at Tru-Value. I'm not sure if you guys have those around there. but its the cheapest most generic carpet i found. which... ironically, matches the other stuff perfectly. :lol:

lonnie
06-14-2008, 11:01 PM
Well I had to go to a local radio shop here to get the carpet and it was like 8.00 for a square yard which was more then enough. I decided not to mount the amp to the board and only carpeted the trunk side of the board, so when looking in all you see are the subs. I also had enough room at the bottom to run my wires to the other side. To solve the back corner issue I just angle cut them and they fit perfect. All and all I really like the wall, and getting the seat down is no problem cause my arms are long. I'll throw up some pics one of these days.

Ryan from Ohio
06-15-2008, 10:09 AM
I cut mine on 45 degree angles. I also took the plastic shroud out and ground the back side so the board will fit.

I see most of you just pulled that off.

I got my board out now and can snap some pics of it later tonight or tomorrow.

But its time to go east some breakfast and play with my new toy!!!

lonnie
06-15-2008, 03:37 PM
I took my shroud off awhile ago because I had to squeeze 3 amps and a cross over on the back of the seats but now the other 2 amps are gone and I just left it off. The only thing I had to angle were the corners that met up with the curved upper part in the trunk. I'll get some pics

CharleyO99Alero
06-15-2008, 09:06 PM
***

BTW ... the gas tank on the 4 door is in the exact same place as on the 2 door.

lonnie
06-16-2008, 07:36 AM
***

BTW ... the gas tank on the 4 door is in the exact same place as on the 2 door.
Thanks charley now I can drill with out worry, cause I'm going to mount my cap in the gap between the seats and the wall.

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 08:48 AM
as i was driving the last night i had the stereo really low and noticed the speakers sounded a little odd. hmm... so i went through and played with the fade/balance. on the full front left, the back right speaker is on.

:lol:

i, apparently, need to write down what colors i'm using for what wires, because simply plugging them into the HU, and not even an hour later plugging them in on the other end, is too much to remember. I'm retarded :banghead:

lonnie
06-16-2008, 09:12 AM
Better get those polarities right....Hey cherry are you using a stiffening Capacitor? I'm going to try and install mine this afternoon, and wondered if you had one with both of those amps you are running? Do your lights dim at all and do you ever pump your stero? If so do they dim then?

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 09:15 AM
mine don't dim at all, they used to, but i bumped up my "big 3" (grounding to battery, alt and new battery) and i'm good now.

i HAVE a 1 farad cap thats sitting on my workbench. :lol: i don't have any room for it.... so i just left it out. doesn't seem to do much but take up room



i guess the polarity issue came from krystal's obscure wiring identification. they had (on the 4 wire set) a black, red, white, blue. and not even connected, i think they were in that order... which doesn't make sense. then the 2 channel set was black and red. so i somehow botched wiring those together.

lonnie
06-16-2008, 09:24 AM
What size did you go for in battery to amp wiring? I'm using a number 4 to the distribution block then from there I bump down to number 8..the ground is striaght 8 from amp to ground. I don't have many dim light issues but I wanted to have something in there just in case, and a little clip protection.

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 09:51 AM
i have 2ga from alt to battery, 8 ga from battery to ground (gotta add one or two more when i get another pair of hands to help) and 2x8ga running from the battery back to each amp.

I already had the wire laying around, and didn't want to have to go buy 2 or 4ga and a distro block. so i just ran a whole new 8.

lonnie
06-16-2008, 10:04 AM
I gottcha, then I may use some grounding strap I got here and take it from the batt to the frame, and I guess I could get some 2ga for the run from the alt to the batt. I got some extra 8ga left that I was going to use for the Cap and I guess I could double up the run from the distribution block to the amp, and the same for the ground. IDK I think that my last amp may have went up due to underpowering, but when I took it apart there were no parts showing signs of damage and no fuses blew, so I want to make sure that I have my bases covered with this one...although they are cheap enough to get it replaced as long as they are in stock.

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 11:29 AM
i only beefed up the alt wire because i got a highout put alt, and its got like a 18ga wire for the stock one. its pathetic.

i gained like a full half a volt, and lord only knows how many amps...

lonnie
06-16-2008, 12:59 PM
i only beefed up the alt wire because i got a highout put alt, and its got like a 18ga wire for the stock one. its pathetic.

i gained like a full half a volt, and lord only knows how many amps...
What do those alt run? And what did you do for getting cool air in for your amps I can't see them here at work and I can't remember if you had fans or not but my amp doesn't come with a fan so I am designing a heat sink cooling box. Actually I have it built just got it done a second ago and tested with a shop vac, and it works pretty good pulls the cool air in and gets rid of the rest, but anyway are you having any heat issues since we have had warm weather here on the east cost?

lonnie
06-16-2008, 01:57 PM
Here's what I came up with for solving my heat issues in the trunk. I call it a heat disapation box. It basically disapates the heat from the heat sinks and in theory should increase the effiecency of the amp even during the hottest of days.

Of course this is my proto-type so it is rough around the edges, but it works really well just from bench testing. I can turn it on and run my hands under it and feel the cool air through out the box. Now hopefully science will work in my favor and really cause the heated air from the heat sink to rise and if so my box will push it out and bring in the cool air. This is what I do on slow days at work. LOL

4428

4429

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 04:05 PM
thats your workbench at work!? fock! i'm jealous!

everything i've done, i've done with an old ass couple of saws my dad has, and a radioshack soldering iron. :emotlol:

Ryan from Ohio
06-16-2008, 07:07 PM
Here's what I came up with for solving my heat issues in the trunk. I call it a heat disapation box. It basically disapates the heat from the heat sinks and in theory should increase the effiecency of the amp even during the hottest of days.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-12-Volt-Large-Crossflow-Cooling-Fan-Brand-SGJ78_W0QQitemZ310059591978QQihZ021QQcategoryZ5055 2QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

:haha:

cherrington17
06-16-2008, 07:54 PM
yeah.... but nothing beats doing it yourself.


plus, it keeps lonnie off the streetz. :lol:

lonnie
06-17-2008, 08:11 AM
thats your workbench at work!? fock! i'm jealous!

everything i've done, i've done with an old ass couple of saws my dad has, and a radioshack soldering iron. :emotlol:Yeah this is one of them I have one that I built next to it that you can't see, and I have one that I built out in the ware house and there is another like the one in the pic that is out at a shop at the tower building. Of course I don't personally own these. But it helps:lol:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-12-Volt-Large-Crossflow-Cooling-Fan-Brand-SGJ78_W0QQitemZ310059591978QQihZ021QQcategoryZ5055 2QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

:haha:Yeah I know there are some out there I did my research but there wasn't anything that I could do for five bucks, but thanks. I tested it all afternoon yesterday and it works fine, the only problem is where I installed the wall I have to make it smaller.:lol:

yeah.... but nothing beats doing it yourself.


plus, it keeps lonnie off the streetz. :lol:Ha Ha Ha, but yeah I love making stuff like that myself. To go from a drawing to reality is fun to me. It dosen't matter if someone else has done it as long as I can say that I made this one myself.:yahoo:

Ryan from Ohio
06-17-2008, 10:38 AM
Ha Ha Ha, but yeah I love making stuff like that myself. To go from a drawing to reality is fun to me. It dosen't matter if someone else has done it as long as I can say that I made this one myself.:yahoo:


You would probably like my job then...

lonnie
06-17-2008, 10:43 AM
You would probably like my job then...You may be right thats why I like my job now. I get to do alot with my hands. Of course there are times where I have to get paperwork done so I have to be in the office but the majority of my time is handson and on the road. I recently had to customize brackets for the sheriffs command vehicle cause what they wanted to do Motorola didn't make the brackets to get it done. Its better when you love it!

cherrington17
06-19-2008, 11:17 AM
Well, i went through and fixed my channels. (had them backwards AND reversed. de-dede)

and as i was doing that, i decided i should take my door off and figure out why my driver's side woofer sounds muddy...

the reason....


there is a 2" tear in the butyl rubber!!!!!! :mad2: :mad2: i just emailed the company to see if its covered under warranty. that f'n blows. i just got these, what, 3 months ago??

lonnie
06-19-2008, 12:38 PM
Well, i went through and fixed my channels. (had them backwards AND reversed. de-dede)

and as i was doing that, i decided i should take my door off and figure out why my driver's side woofer sounds muddy...

the reason....


there is a 2" tear in the butyl rubber!!!!!! :mad2: :mad2: i just emailed the company to see if its covered under warranty. that f'n blows. i just got these, what, 3 months ago??
That effing sucks. Is the tear in the rubber itself or is it separating from the cone? I've fixed a few that were seperating from the cone but never the rubber spring itself. They should def be covered under a warranty I don't see why they wouldn't. My cooling box is to big so I have to build another one but it works. I just didn't account for the lost of space due to the board, but oh well back to the drawing board.

cherrington17
06-19-2008, 02:03 PM
the rubber itself split right in the middle. it REALLY sucks. i hope they don't want me to send everything back, and its just the speaker itself. (can't see why they'd do the first, but i've seen companies do stupid things)

lonnie
06-20-2008, 07:33 AM
Yeah that would suck, I wonder how that could have happen. Have you called them yet to see if they would be willing to send a replacement for the return of the bad one?

cherrington17
06-26-2008, 12:54 PM
well.. i just heard back and i have to send the whole kit back, since they no longer carry the picasso series. but they are replacing the whole kit with the newer TRC.6N. :yahoo: just gotta get the old speakers out now.

lonnie
06-26-2008, 03:02 PM
well.. i just heard back and i have to send the whole kit back, since they no longer carry the picasso series. but they are replacing the whole kit with the newer TRC.6N. :yahoo: just gotta get the old speakers out now.

Thats bitter sweet but damn thats alot of work to replace one speaker, but I can see the sweet side to this. I wonder how much I could get a set for that is discontinued.

Ryan from Ohio
06-26-2008, 03:33 PM
Thats usually caused when your speaker is touching the door panel... This problem is common... With poor installs :p

cherrington17
06-26-2008, 03:39 PM
damn work computers! double post

cherrington17
06-26-2008, 03:41 PM
^ i thought about that. but it should have plenty of clearance. hmm... maybe i underestimated how far out it'll "pop" but that'll definitely be fixed on the second install. (oh, and SHOOSH! we're not all pro installers. :glare: )

and to get them out isn't too bad. just unsolder the tabs and disconnect the xovers. the speaker adapter plates can stay in place, just the speaker needs to come out. no biggie. and in between, maybe i'll put 2 leds behind each speaker grille, so it glows. :D

cherrington17
07-29-2008, 04:18 PM
whelp... finally got them back. :yahoo: (not the same ones, i got a whole new set.)

i looked at it, and i don't have enough room to mount leds (w/o the speaker shaking them like crazy and making the light "wiggle" ) and i did look at the mounting holes and i was WAY off on the driver's side. so i drilled new ones. :yahoo: i'm excited to have good sound back again. (or sound period)

lonnie
07-29-2008, 07:09 PM
whelp... finally got them back. :yahoo: (not the same ones, i got a whole new set.)

i looked at it, and i don't have enough room to mount leds (w/o the speaker shaking them like crazy and making the light "wiggle" ) and i did look at the mounting holes and i was WAY off on the driver's side. so i drilled new ones. :yahoo: i'm excited to have good sound back again. (or sound period)Congrats! We want pics, and you are not allowed to have any more gremlins this year....lol

cherrington17
07-29-2008, 07:11 PM
:glare: pfft. gremlins already took a caliper. i gotta redo them in a week or so. my pads are deteriorating, and my rotors are pretty warped/pitted... and i veer right pretty good when braking. So i have a friend at work helping me redo pretty much the whole brake system.

lonnie
07-30-2008, 05:06 PM
Yeah I need new rear pads..I peeked when I was getting my new tires on. Damn gremlins, and the best part is one of my rims is bent on the inside.....I'm about to put some skies on my car, cause I'm sick of dealing with tires and rims. LOL well when you do the speakers throw up some pics!

cherrington17
07-30-2008, 05:07 PM
having issues w/ those damn speakers... see the quick help thread.... :mad2: