Front Hub / Wheel Bearing

[Ryan from Ohio]

This is the start of the end all/be all thread on the front wheel bearing/hubs. If you have anything to contribute, please contribute below and I will add it into this first post.

Removal & Installation

Front

To Remove:
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE:The front wheel bearings are not serviced separately. If the front wheel bearings are defective, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

Lubricate the threads on the halfshaft with clean engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheels
Halfshaft hub nut
Caliper from the steering knuckle
Brake rotor
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly

To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assembly onto the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly to the backing plate. Tighten the 3 bolts alternately and evenly to 70 ft lbs (95 Nm).
ABS sensor
Brake rotor
Caliper on the steering knuckle.
**Halfshaft nut. Tighten it to 284 ft lbs (385 Nm) if the nut is black or 173 ft lbs (235 Nm) if the nut is gray.**
Front wheel. Tighten the nuts to 100 ft lbs (140 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.


** please note

- "Grey nut" is referring to a nut that has a "shield" of sorts on the outside of it.The "black nut" is a whole flanged nut. 284 ft lbs is a ridiculous amount for these bearings period. This time around I only did 140 ft lbs. Take this under advisement, but I would NOT tighten these past 150 PERIOD...


Thread Sizes

Axle Spindle- 15/16"-14 thread- currently looking into this odd size?
FHHCS (Flange Hex Head Cap Screw) the three that hold the hub on, M12 X 1.75 pitch X 50mm Lg. Fastenal Part No 0161846 - note 10Pcs.


*Measured with digital calipers- hey Im a Machinist by trade so numbers are good!

[spinalator]

Thanks for posting this, I have a 99 Gm service manual, and have read about the torque issues on the hub nut before, and I was wondering how they arrived at the massive figures early on.

I heard there are new nuts and they altered the torque values (?) but I am not sure if out new to swap out the nuts when servicing.

[[ion] C2]

that is a lot of torque

[meadus101]

So my Car is totally F'ed. I have the Wheel bearing Whine. but When I turn there's no change. I know it's pretty unlikly that they will be both gone at the same time, but I know I'm going to have to replace both of them. Plus the hubs I would assume.


Anyone wanna give me a ballpark figure on what I'm looking at for the job? I lack the Tools requiredto do it myself.

[Jaymz88]

I believe i have the same problem with mine.

[[ion] C2]

wheel bearing and hub are all one piece/together

[cherrington17]

So my Car is totally F'ed. I have the Wheel bearing Whine. but When I turn there's no change. I know it's pretty unlikly that they will be both gone at the same time, but I know I'm going to have to replace both of them. Plus the hubs I would assume.


Anyone wanna give me a ballpark figure on what I'm looking at for the job? I lack the Tools requiredto do it myself.

i paid 550 for both of mine.... like a 'tard. I didn't know they were so easy to do, until recently. You could probably rent the tools from a local parts store for less then $100, and they give you that back when you return them.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Before you replace the bearings loosen the nut and re torque them to see if it changes.

[zzyzzx]

It might be helpful if people posted the mileage at which they changed their front wheel bearing/hubs. At 21,400 miles, I still have my original ones on my 1999 Alero and figure I have quite some time before I have to do this.

[Ryan from Ohio]

As far as I know mine were original. 125K I believe on my 99.

[01silveralero]

im at 172k i have to replace mine (unknown history prior) im getting tired of the "christmas tree" lightshow year round

[misslindseysue]

Parts are ~$100/ea at Murray's or Autozone (Murray's are cheaper, get the $100 if you're keeping it, the $80 if you're selling it).
I paid a local shop $75-ish to put one on for me.
First one went out around 40k, maybe, then every so often after that. I replaced 4 or 5 total in the 120k I owned it.

[surreal_awakening]

I can't say for sure the mileage when I replaced mine. I'm thinking in the 100k-125k mile range. I replaced them with a junkyard set, and they have lasted up til now (245k), but I bought new ones anyway since I'm completely overhauling.

[meadus101]

Yea, I'm buying the better bearings up, and Having a Shop do it. It's on Daddy's Dime.

I lack the tools and time, or a decent environment to do it in, besides, I'd want ryan there with me with a live feed to tell me what to do as I'm doing it.

I'm really not confident. hahaha.

[spinalator]

How about using 140 ft pounds and a drop of medium threadlocker on the bigassnut? I assume there is a reason GM hates threadlocker since they hardly ever recommend it in the service manual.

[Cliff8928]

usually those spindle lock nuts are locking (slightly oval shaped at the end).

[Ryan from Ohio]

The spindle nuts on mine are like 4-6 small plates with a steel case around them... They are self locking.

Loctite is not necessary at all.

I havent found time to tear into my extra bearing yet, but 140 ft lbs has to be to much... Thats enough to crush bearings...

[CactusWill]

bumping so I can find this thread later this week.

[CactusWill]

Thanks for this tutorial. Got one hub for $89 at advance, and busted it out this afternoon, took me about an hour using a complete garage with lift and air tools. One thing I'd like to add if it hasn't been said already, is that you should unbolt the tie rod so you can get better access to the 3 hub bolts on the backside.

[Beholder88]

Just paid $127 for a hub assy from AutoZone. My car has just over 77,650 miles on it, both original bearings on the front. My front Driver's side is the one that went. I figure by all the different torque specs that everyone has thrown around on this forum that I should be good somewhere between 130ft-lb and 150ft-lb for the axle nut.

[undersc0re]

I have a picture for the people that want to know what exactly they are going to have to replace.

5673

[Beholder88]

The bearing I bought doesn't look like that one. It doesn't have the larger hole between the wheel studs. I'm pretty sure that the bolts go in from the rear on our vehicles.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Update

Well once again one or maybe both bearings went out. TO recap these were cheap chinese made replacement from E Bay for about $100 for both shipped.

I would avoid these. One failed in about a month. Now 6 months later somethings afoot.

Today I went on the hunt. When it comes to tapered roller bearings there is two BIG names, Timken and SKF.

Advanced Auto only carries no named Chinese ones. Dont bother with them!

O'Reily's/Murray's carries SKF hubs- and its cheaper than most other retail ones @ $115.99 THis is a 2 year warranty also.

Included with the hub was an updated spindle nut! And the proper torque specs!

I will attach pics soon!

[Ryan from Ohio]

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0164.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0162.jpg

[cherrington17]

Anywhere else that carries those?? I have neither of those local to me, and ur post is VERY intriguing....

Great find

[lonnie]

Good info Ryan!!

[clutch1]

That's a lot of torque no matter how you look at it, holy shizza.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Heres where you start...

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0165.jpg

Make sure you have a 35mm deep well and a 1/2" breaker barand a set of nuts, your going to need them.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0168.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0169.jpg

Nuts!!!???















http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0170.jpg

Thats what all has tocome off to get to the wheel bearing. 2 bolts to pull caliper off, 2 bolts to pull brake pad mounting off, 3 bolts on wheel bearing.

13mm 6 point stuby socket, 1 3" extension, 1 6" extension, 12mm 6 point, 5/8" open end wrench, 35mm Deep Well Scoket w/1/2 breaker and finally a BFHammer...And about 1 hour of time.

Unfortunately I must of picked the wrong side. THe bearing did feel bad though, so maybe both went...

[lonnie]

take a pic of a bad bearing

[dragon8807]

Heres where you start...

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0165.jpg

Make sure you have a 35mm deep well and a 1/2" breaker barand a set of nuts, your going to need them.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0168.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0169.jpg

Nuts!!!???















http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/basstronics/Alero/100_0170.jpg

Thats what all has tocome off to get to the wheel bearing. 2 bolts to pull caliper off, 2 bolts to pull brake pad mounting off, 3 bolts on wheel bearing.

13mm 6 point stuby socket, 1 3" extension, 1 6" extension, 12mm 6 point, 5/8" open end wrench, 35mm Deep Well Scoket w/1/2 breaker and finally a BFHammer...And about 1 hour of time.

Unfortunately I must of picked the wrong side. THe bearing did feel bad though, so maybe both went...

nice info ryan, this will help me out when i do both of mine

[Ryan from Ohio]

The bad bearing looks just like a new bearing but theres surface rust on everything.

There is no visual indication it is bad.

[lonnie]

So in the third pic on the first page where the spindle is hanging out is that whole thing the bearing?....I see a sensor connection on the bottom right of the pic...so I'm guessing that its the whole assembly?

[Beholder88]

That connection is just where the hub plugs in. The bearing has been removed in that picture.

[lonnie]

That connection is just where the hub plugs in. The bearing has been removed in that picture.Thank You! Anyone got a pic of the hub bearing assembly..never seen one!

[Ryan from Ohio]

http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/0f/54/8967_1.JPG

[cherrington17]

my bearings are still good... is it possible to just get the new nut?

[Beholder88]

Why do you need just a new nut, did you, bust-a-nut?

[cherrington17]

no, for the reason ryan posted above. its quite possible that the old nut gm used, is whats causing premature wearing of our bearings.

i'd swap both, if i knew where to get them.

[Ryan from Ohio]

rockauto has a revised nut.

[Beholder88]

I got the new version with my Timken bearing.

[Ryan from Ohio]

&#)!_#$@)!

OMG my car sounds like wood chipper! Its making popping a screeching noises. Im afraid my other tires is going to lock up and/or just bust off.

Ive never heard a car make such noises in my life. Makes spun bearings sound good...

And Im stuck at work...

[cherrington17]

what did you do!?

you... by chance.. didn't remove the old bearing, and replace it with a metal bar, did you?

[Beholder88]

Great scott! Is it just a noise or can you feel it when you're driving too? Can you tell what side it's coming from?

[Ryan from Ohio]

Well since they have been going bad they make a growling noise thats steady. In turns the pitch of the noise changes.

Well I changed the drivers last night as my Uncle though that was the bad one. which I think it was abd, but the Passenger side is obviously MUCH worse.

My car is making death noises. Its loud as hell. When i was pulling out of McDonalds people were looking...

:(

Son of a B*%#H

[Beholder88]

Guess it's time for round 2, passenger side.

[fielder87]

Front Wheel Bearings- JOY!

I had my front driver wheel bearing go at 48,000k, the passenger was not long to follow at 62,000k. now at 150,000k I believe the driver side one is going again(light hum from front driver)!I think i need a performance one!

p.s. And for the torque on axle-nut.....I just cranker till she dont move no more,and then some :).

[Ryan from Ohio]

Ok, well my Uncle came up to my work with a jack and a replacement SKF Bearing.

The Passenger side was shot to hell. There was parts of the rubber SEAL coming up/out past the steel shield. THe whole tire mounted solid to the hub could be moved around when it was jacke dup off the ground.

I got the bearing off and replaced outside in the cold in about 45 minutes or less...lol

I was shocked to hell how bad the damned thing felt. It was horrible.

The up side is my car is very smooth and quiet. Down side is I dumped $250 into it this week for repairs and still have an F'ed up window regulator!

[cherrington17]

window regulator < wheel bearings.

[Nate's Alero]

window regulator < wheel bearings.

agree:lol: :lol:

[Ryan from Ohio]

True.

My just came unwound somehow.

Im drilling the rivets out, rewinding it and bolting it back together.

F buying more Alero parts!

[Nate's Alero]

True.

My just came unwound somehow.

Im drilling the rivets out, rewinding it and bolting it back together.

F buying more Alero parts!

dude, link me to the best nut and wheel bearing.... im lost in the dark

[Midgear]

dude, link me to the best nut and wheel bearing.... im lost in the dark

Update

Well once again one or maybe both bearings went out. TO recap these were cheap chinese made replacement from E Bay for about $100 for both shipped.

I would avoid these. One failed in about a month. Now 6 months later somethings afoot.

Today I went on the hunt. When it comes to tapered roller bearings there is two BIG names, Timken and SKF.

Advanced Auto only carries no named Chinese ones. Dont bother with them!

O'Reily's/Murray's carries SKF hubs- and its cheaper than most other retail ones @ $115.99 THis is a 2 year warranty also.
Included with the hub was an updated spindle nut! And the proper torque specs!

I will attach pics soon!

Learn to read boy!!!

[Nate's Alero]

Learn to read boy!!!

fine then.... give me the goddamn link to murrays!!!!! google sucks nuts tonight

[Midgear]

search harder :dry:

[Ryan from Ohio]

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/default.aspx

SKF part# BR930080

[Midgear]

so two of those = traction control and ABS back, plus all those lights OFF ?

[cherrington17]

most likely.

if you had your bearing factory replaced, i'd suggest taking the wheel off and backing that nut off a little. there definitely isn't a reason to have it 250ft/lbs tight.

also... ryan, any chance you can start a new "HOW TO" thread for that middle page information. hopefully get a sticky on it. seems like thats a genuine fix for a common issue. MANY can benefit from that kinda info.

lastly.. i see rockauto has the bearing assembly... anyone know where i can get ONLY the new nut?

[Nate's Alero]

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/default.aspx

SKF part# BR930080

whai, fanx!

[Ryan from Ohio]

GM has the nut...

Call the dealer.

Parts America, Checker, O'Reily's, Murray's, Advance Auto, etc.

Just tell them your looking for an axle nut and look at the computer screen. SHould show an updated one. Raybestos makes one!

[kevin1114]

what would happen if i leave a bad bearing?

[Beholder88]

what would happen if i leave a bad bearing?

Well, if you let it go for a ling time - a lot. For one, your ABS will eventually stop working. If you let the bearing wear down enough, your tire will wobble like no ones business and you won't be able to go faster than like, maybe 30. It has the ability to cause a lot of damage, and could end up costing you more than the $100 it costs to get the new hub. You had better replace it if that is what you think it is.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Well it will wobble, screech, make noise and possible break off and roll by you as you slide down the road...

[colonel6632]

http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/0f/54/8967_1.JPG

ummm... was i supposed to leave that little plastic thing on... because i didnt...

also.. i bought skf.. and it were $205 after taxes

[Nate's Alero]

ummm... was i supposed to leave that little plastic thing on... because i didnt...

also.. i bought skf.. and it were $205 after taxes

nope, that just holds the little plug on, WHERE WOULD THE HALFSHAFT GO??

[colonel6632]

lol. thats what i thought... but you never know. i did that then took her to the track.. she held up.. so i suppose it's ok. lol

[WorkAlero]

My question about the SKF and Timken wheels bearings would be if the ABS sensors are any better? I have one of the cheap chinese made bearings on my car right now and the bearing is fine but the ABS sensor is obviously bad since I get the three lights on the dash.

[Kingpin]

ummm... was i supposed to leave that little plastic thing on... because i didnt...

also.. i bought skf.. and it were $205 after taxes

I don't think you need it. I just bought new premium hubs/bearings from NAPA and a note inside the box said they had been redesigned (which would explain the difference in appearance.)

[ianitrix]

Heys guys I just finished changing the bearings on my dads 03 Alero. All I have to say is WTF!!, the 3 bolt that hold the hub is place are in such an akward spot that I almost stripped all 6 of them(Both Sides). Now I wanted to thank all of you who posted in here because without you guys I would of had no chance of even dreaming of doing this job. I would like to add my own thing if I could and that is to heat those three bolts until the locktight melts away so you dont strip out the bolts like I just did. Thats the only thing I see that has never been mentioned before so I thought I would let anyone else who is trying to replace theres doesnt end up grinding the bolts off. My plan was to write a precise way on replacing these but when I ran into this problem I put the camera away but I do have some pics I could share. Well I hope this helps out the next guy

[colonel6632]

i used a wrench for some... or turned the wheel all the way to one said and a big extension. it was a PITA... but didn't come close to stripping them

[zzyzzx]

Well, if you let it go for a ling time - a lot. For one, your ABS will eventually stop working. If you let the bearing wear down enough, your tire will wobble like no ones business and you won't be able to go faster than like, maybe 30. It has the ability to cause a lot of damage, and could end up costing you more than the $100 it costs to get the new hub. You had better replace it if that is what you think it is.

I'm guessing that they would fix it long before any of that would happen, since the gas mileage would suck and the car would vibrate on the highway so much they would feel as if they are driving an earthquake.

[Nate's Alero]

im getting four new hubs, four tires and all new brakes...., eventually

[RisenequinoX]

i just got a whole new brake system right around when i got the car last december... its pretty nice. i want to get drilled and/or slotted rotors?

[ianitrix]

i used a wrench for some... or turned the wheel all the way to one said and a big extension. it was a PITA... but didn't come close to stripping them

See I had to use sockets because they are hidden and there is no way I could of put a wrench on it until I unscrewed it. The problem was I couldnt even turn it at all and that why I stripped it.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Welp...

Now I know why my service engine soon light came on yesterday.

Today at lunch while driving my car smelled funny, like dragging brakes... But nope.

When i come back out from restraint and put car in reverse the check engine soon, abs and trac lights all came on.

Can you say MFSOB!!!!!!

:cry:

Good thing I bought the ones with ample warranty...

Will be redoing both fronts this weekend.

I also got to fix a blown brake line in the Riviera... we fun weekend!

[cherrington17]

at least they are warrantied. It could be worse...