Check out the Alero Audio project I have going! INSANE

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

heres the link to all the pics of stuff im putting in my Alero.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=29786150&albumId=2760365


and an audiopipe AP30001D Amplifier , stinger 5 farad digital cap and a battery or two.

[spinalator]

That will hurt your ears. I am telling your mother.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

i want to get in the mid to high 150dB range, I have to be outside of the car for the leage if its over 150. im going to pannel out the trunk with MDF greatstuff fiberglass and then carpet it all to look stock then throw the box in the box. and Im going to brace up what i can in the trunk, deff. seal it super well too. but the only thing that sucks, is that, that box pictued is 3" too big when i go tp put it in the trunk , reason being is i built it to spec before i knew what i was getting, i was expecting a crown vic or a blazer....

[Ryan from Ohio]

Ok, what ind of box is that?

First thing the port is to small, need more port area.

Then in another picture I can see grass through the bottom? wtf?

Good luck on your quest. We did the 4th loudest bass race car in the world with 4 15's in a 4 door buick and it almost did 156...

I also helped with a single 12 premiere like that a few years back. Good sub, but I dont think your going to be into the 150's. Probably mid-high 140's.

[Gr1m]

looks like that thing is going to destroy that poorly crafted box like a handgrenade

[bizarre179]

Yeah that box looks way to small, especially for being ported. But Yeah, that is nuts. That speaker is a monster! What kinda amp(s) are you pushing it with.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

ok the box was unfinished for the pics, lol, and actually it is the recommended 3.25, its closer to 4 cubes internally. they called for a single port of 4" 5.5" deep, so i called them and no one wanted to help, AS$Holes. so i got online and did some calculating, totaled up a few sites and cam out with an average, theres no puffs, theres no excessive air blast it's good, its 18.5" long, 18.5" high and 3" wide. and i rounded the port edge, yes its nailed, but i liquide nails'd it and used alexes caulking to seal everything inside. the night i threw the sub and amp in my mustang, i roughly tuned to amp and metered it at the dash and it hit a 149.4 on a 6 year old stick mic. and it could use nore juice from the car.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

but the box won't fit the alero i built it before i had it. stupid me....

[DansGen1Alero]

thats about why my JLs did last time i had them checked, at dash, or floor, I can't remember exactly but was like 143.8 or 148.3

[Ryan from Ohio]

you need to look at port area, which is the opening of the port.

3 x 18.5= 55.5 sq in of port area. Thats simply to small. I would advise about 75-100 Sq inches.

http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

now you owe me $1.
:lol:

That works ok, but you need to know what your after. Thats where the battle begins.

Also the stick mic your using is inaccurate to todays standards. Was it an Audio Control? or you talking a Radio Shack thing?

Unless your being metered on a term lab or an calibrate Audio Control dont go spouting numbers. People will rip you every which way... lol... Seen it millions of times. Me, Im not much of a numbers guy. As long as it sounds good to me, then it is what it is.

[spinalator]

Who makes the best 8-track deck? ;)

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

i know the stick mic is off thats the only reason i pointed it off, its, a great meter idk what kind, i was told it was like $1200 new. the mic was specific for it. and the port area fits the sub fine i did the math with sub excursion, displacment, and so on. i wanted it to be in the 40's-50's for fq to hit differently.

[Fi-Alero]

Nice box, but if SPL is your goal, you built it wrong. That sub likes a small box with alot of port area when it comes to getting loud on the meter.

Also, Aero ports are generally better for tuned ported SPL boxes because they tune at a specific frequency, unlike a slot port that tunes at a range of frequencies. Now if you are chasing the wave, a slot port would be better, but I doubt you are doing that lol.

Good luck getting the score you are looking for man. Believe me, it isn't easy to do 150s in an alero.

[Steven01]

Thats Awsam Im running pioneer premiers 10" two of them with rockford 900 rms amp It puts out a Nice punch.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

im planning on reinforcing the trunk with MDF panels, greatstuff, bondo(for smoothing) then wrapping it all in fiberglass, you cant get more soldi and ridged than that.

[Fi-Alero]

It doesn't require all of that lol.
All it requires is a correctly built box with the power and charging system behind it.

[Ryan from Ohio]

I think your going overboard here, but eh whatever floats your boat.

Ive been in this hobby for 13 years now. That ports to small for your aspirations. Heck the box is even on the small side. Its a 15" sub, only 3 1/4 cubes? Ive done 12's in boxes bigger than that... I would start looking at graphs in the 5-8' range.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

what do you mean graphs, shouldn't i be looking for something specificly sized for SPL that mathces this sub?

[Ryan from Ohio]

Ah, so you are green.

The numbers you see in manuals for recommended enclosures etc are not always the best bet. All depends on how well a company tests the subs out and the amount of time vested into such projects.

A good portion of box building is just knowing what works through experience and testing. Magical numbers really dont exist...

What I meant by my earlier post is the best bet is to start in the guessed ideal range and load the information into winISD. Then from there you adjust until you see a gain graph you like.

I built boxes long before I discovered winISD, but with it I can build better boxes.

Just taking a sub, slapping it in a box with 509 Sq in port tuned to 34 Hz isnt all there is... Playing with the box size can make huge improvements... Also opening up the port area will take away some turbulence...

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

we need just a dedicated Bass section.

anyways, i think im going to sell it and get a DD9918, I almost had a cream dream today when i found a near by audio shop that carried non mainstream- pro audio.

he said $1000 for it he has 3 or 4 different ones, he also builds subs, he had one 75lb monster that he claimed could do 5500W RMS. i think it was a 15 but i was in my own little candy land so i don't remember exactly.

they had DD SoundStream PowerBass Audiopipe Stetsom Hertz. idk how long that will stay open the city's like ony 15,000 people, and alot of people cant afford or don't know what any of that stuff is. but i never thought i'de get to see that kind of stuff for sale around here.


anyways how do i find the resignant FQ of my vehicle and for a box should i try to go as close to a +3db as possible, and what do you think about doubling MDF and fiber internals?

[Ryan from Ohio]

lol and he just discovered Digital Designs...

If you want a real sub and are dead serious let me know. I know someone who produces and makes custom monsters and you can get a better deal than the prices you got by FAR.

I can also hook you up with RE, DC Audio and more...

The easiest way to find Fs of the system is to use a Term lab and run a sweep signal thru the car. That will tell you where the loudest Fs is. For Alero's your talking 40-45Hz area like most GM cars.

[Fi-Alero]

In my alero, I am generally loudest at ~53hz depending on the weather. It takes alot of building to figure out exactly the right box and tuning. Every sub likes something different also.

DD subs are extremely nice. You can find blown ones pretty cheap on ebay and get them reconed. I ran a DD9515 myself back in the day. Great sub that had no problem playing well below tuning.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

no i knew what Digital designs was, i just didn't bother dreaming about them becouse i figured i'de never see a place within 100miles of me that would have them. im thinking of taking my earnings next summer and walling off my stang and putting two 18" 9500's in the back.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Well if you need a 12" sub that will kill other subs and want it for probably half of what you paid for that pioneer let me know. I got the hook up.

[DansGen1Alero]

im planning on reinforcing the trunk with MDF panels, greatstuff, bondo(for smoothing) then wrapping it all in fiberglass, you cant get more soldi and ridged than that.


sure you can....... concrete!

thats the best if your trying to go "all out"

just dont count on it being a daily driver, lol

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

well iwant to be able to have it a daily driver thats why i'de do it in MDF and fiber. i just got to drive it for the first time last night. there snappy. we finally were able to switch the license and reg. from the mustang to the alero.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

and ryan what might this sub be?

[rollinpropercc3]

how much is all that stuff your sellin

[Ryan from Ohio]

well everything this guy builds is custom.

you tell him the power and box size you want to use, he builds accordingly.

Im pretty certain these subs are under $500, I think they may be under $400 even...

Bwcad1@gmail.com

best bet is to shoot him an email. I know he has pics just not sure where they are hiding. Ive personally seen 4 of the bests in action. Only a fool or person with proper hearing protection (still a fool0 would sit in a vehicle with these... If you have a weak heart or possible conditions you could die.

[bmxracer2]

heres the link to all the pics of stuff im putting in my Alero.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=29786150&albumId=2760365


and an audiopipe AP30001D Amplifier , stinger 5 farad digital cap and a battery or two.


looks like its going to be loud but im telling you i have two soundstream T5's in mine 2000watt rms man they hit like no tommorrow money well spent

[Gr1m]

im planning on reinforcing the trunk with MDF panels, greatstuff, bondo(for smoothing) then wrapping it all in fiberglass, you cant get more soldi and ridged than that.
you have yours layers ass backwards, if you did it in the order.....well, you'd find out.

[Ian 2000GL LA1]

i meant great stuff, MDF, fiberglass fill/bondo,then fiberglass woven blanet.

yeah the T5's are awsome. but im having some trouble with my alero, yesterday i upped my body ground from the battery to 0ga. ran some 8ga for the rear deck amp and left my rear deck amp in the trunk. well its been like 25-45 degrees here the last 3 days and the frigger takes like 4-5 good tries to start cold, if its just becouse of that mild chill it's going to be for sale becouse otherwise im going to have a long winter ahead if that little bit of a chill is that hard on the car, we get like constant 5-20 degree weather all winter and we have two 2-week periods where we see as low as -30.
the other problem is the trunk seems to be really damp, i checked the spare tire well, and the corners under the liner, no standing water, it has rained on and off most of the week but come on, this is a relativly new car compaired to my mustang, and i never had any of these problems with the mustangs it's 15 years old ad of nov, and it has had a rough northern new york life. it had a fist sized hole in the corner of the trunk and it never got that damp, my amp was even wet.

[cherrington17]

If you have a weak heart or possible conditions you could die.

gotta be careful.. even people w/ a good heart and no health problems can have their pulse "mimic" the bass hits, if they are hard enough. Then a faster tempo song comes along and you can essentially, give yourself a heartattack....

[meadus101]

^^ That's just plain needless.

[bmxracer2]

hey man check your weather strippings at the top of your trunk that might be where your getting your watter idk anywhere else mine hasnt done that but ya the only problem i have is i have the two T5 Fifteens and its an extra 200+ pounds.... kinda ruined my get up but also i have dynamatted the shit outta the back of the trunk im ready to cut off the alero slab completely.. fuckin thing keeps raddling
STILL!!!!

[jeenysrider07]

the sub looks nice i want to see the box finished and in the alero. you should throw another sticker on your car thats says " i have alot of money into my cars audio, someone
come and steal it'jk

[CarGodz]

yesterday i upped my body ground from the battery to 0ga. ran some 8ga for the rear deck amp and left my rear deck amp in the trunk. well its been like 25-45 degrees here the last 3 days and the frigger takes like 4-5 good tries to start cold, if its just becouse of that mild chill it's going to be for sale becouse otherwise im going to have a long winter ahead if that little bit of a chill is that hard on the car, we get like constant 5-20 degree weather all winter and we have two 2-week periods where we see as low as -30.
What are you using for a starting battery? And why the need for 2) 5 Farar caps... That's just overkill, anything over 1 farad is pointless unless it's sole purpose is for show.
Also do you have a High output alternator? If so what size? You may not be producing enough power to properly charge the batteries for a cold start up.

the other problem is the trunk seems to be really damp, i checked the spare tire well, and the corners under the liner, no standing water, it has rained on and off most of the week but come on, this is a relativly new car compaired to my mustang, and i never had any of these problems with the mustangs it's 15 years old ad of nov, and it has had a rough northern new york life. it had a fist sized hole in the corner of the trunk and it never got that damp, my amp was even wet.
As for your trunk problem, it may be slightly out of alignment... Simplest way to check is to put some chalk on the gasket and see if it has a good seal all the way around... If not, which is what I'm betting then it's simply means you have to do some re-alignment with the bracket bolts and keep checking with the chalk till it's dead on.