stereo question

[colonel6632]

i dont know much about car stereos and how they should be hooked up. but i'm reading and learning and have a question or two.

so i reran my 1/0 power cable on the drivers side of the car.
all audio cables now run on passenger side of car.

so i think i have my amps and crossovers connected wrong now. i'm terrible at explaining things so i drew pictures

Current Stereo Setup
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1369/currentstereo.jpg


Here is how i think it should be hooked up. or maybe have the amp before the crossover still.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1243/newstereo.jpg

sorry for the confusing if any. i'm terrible at explaining things :cry:

[AleroB888]

Here is how i think it should be hooked up. or maybe have the amp before the crossover still.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1243/newstereo.jpg



That is pretty close, but not quite it. The electronic crossover should go ahead of the amps. I can't tell from your diagram what the outputs are from the Car Deck, but if one of them is a summed mono (L+R) output, it will work going to the Alpine and subs, provided it has a built-in low pass filter. If not, put your electronic crossover ahead of all the amps.

You need one more amp for the tweets.

You can use the passive networks on the tweets and mids, (like in your first diagram, except put the Clarion after the electronic crossover), hooked to the Clarion's output, and hook up the Clarion input to the mid output of the electronic crossover, but only if its mid output high frequency rolloff can be switched off.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Simplify

Rear or sub output from the HU to the sub amp.

Front output from HU to the highs amp. Highs amp to the passive crossovers.

Unless you have a fair amount of Audio knowledge I would advise against trying to run active. Plus as stated, to run active you would need another amp.

[colonel6632]

the subs are going from the preout to the sub amp to the subs. i think that works fine

the front speakers are going from pre-out. then i think i'll put the crossover, then the amps and then run new wire. is 14g good enough

and ryan. i've read/heard electronic crossovers do a better job than the passive ones. i like simple. but i also like learning... and often times learning from my mistakes

[Ryan from Ohio]

Ok,

well to go active the electronics crossover HAS to have a bandpass function.

This will filter out the highs and the lows for the mids.

Then use the high pass for the highs.

Now what this will do is allow you to apply more POWER to your comps. The passive networks will use up some of the input power... Thats a matter of fact.

Unless you know the T/S Specs and have a firm understanding on the settings for each individual component I advise against doing this.

www.bcae1.com

[colonel6632]

Thanks ryan. it's probably frustrating trying explain stuff to rookies when you know what way it should be done.

So my crossover is a jensen jx2300 that i paid $10 a few years ago. it's nothing special probably. I dont know the technical specs of it. So i can't tell you much

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj112/nbe1999/For%20Sale%20or%20Trade/078.jpg?t=1248024455

what i do know is that it can either be a 2-way or a 3-way. i would use it as a 2way for now.

and i know some of the technical specs for my speakers. They aren't the best speakers out there. but i think they do alright. They really aren't anything special.

They are kicker KS50.2 Components
here are the specs of the website

Tweeters
Tweeter Size, in: 1"
Dome Material: Aluminum
Magnet Type: Neodymium
Impedance ohms, Rated (DC Resistance): 4 (3)
Power HandlingWatts, Peak (RMS): 300 (150)
Sensitivity [SPLo], dB @ 1W, 1m: 94
Effective Frequency Range, Hz: 3500-20k
Flush Mount Tweeter Depth, in (mm): 13/16 (21)
Flush Mount Tweeter Hole Diameter, in (cm): 1 15/16 (4.9)
High Pass, dB, at Frequency, Hz: 18, 4000

Components

Woofer Size, in (mm): 5 1/4 (130)
Dome Material: Aluminum
Impedace ohms, Rated (DC Resistance): 4 (3)
Power HandlingWatts, Peak (RMS): 130 (65)
Sensitivity [SPLo], dB @ 1W, 1m: 88
Effective Frequency Range, Hz: 38-21k
Woofer Mounting Hole Diameter, in (cm): 4 9/16 (11.6)
Woofer Mounting Depth, in (cm): 2 (5.1)
High Pass, dB, at Frequency, Hz: 12, 4000
Low Pass, dB, at Frequency, Hz: 12, 4000
High Frequency Output Level, dB: 0, 3, 6

Now i know what some of that means... mosly the ohms and the rms rating. the rest is greek. and i know these numbers, but i'm not sure on how to set the crossover. i just set it till it sounded decent. but it's probably way off.

Thanks!