heater pipe to heater core hose connector.. help

[Runaboveit]

So when I bypassed my heater core, I couldn't get the plastic connector that was attached to the metal heater pipe which then attaches to the heater core hose off, and it ended up snapping. (I've never used quick connect fittings like that.. couldn't figure out how the hell to get it off heh).

Anyway, I looked it up at work (checker oreillys) and it only showed one option available which is part number 28500 from Gates.
25 bucks. and I had to order it. I called around other places pepboys autozone and they didn't even have a listing period.

After I ordered it I went poking around the shelves and found a connector that looks the same but specifies ford 90-99, its from dorman part #800-403.

Take a look ... they are 5/8 on both ends. Will the dorman one work?

Gates 28500
http://i49.tinypic.com/2gwyia8.jpg
I don't know why it shows 3. Not sure if the 25 I paid will include 3 or just 1. They kinda look different sizes in the pic. But anyway, the one I ordered for that part number does say 5/8 in our description.

And here is the Dorman part # 800-403 that I came across.
http://i46.tinypic.com/2yun9s9.jpg
package says 5/8 as well.

Shouldn't this one work? Its much cheaper 8.99 and we have them in stock.

Or are there any other routes I can take that are more durable than these plastic connectors? Right now I have the bypass hose directly clamped onto the metal tube and am worried about it rusting. I have the heater core and new heater core hoses.. just this little damn part is holding me back.

[rustyballs_69]

I would just leave the hose clamp on it how you have it now. I have had mine like that for years and no problems. Those quick connect fittings are a joke.

[Nate's Alero]

i broke mine and clamped it as well, the things are stupid

[Runaboveit]

I don't think I want to leave it just clamped onto the tube. I tightened the clamp as much as I could without bending/collapsing the tube itself and I could still see very small bubbles coming out the end of the hose once the engine was completely warmed up and idling.

That leads me to believe these connectors serve a purpose besides being "quick connect". The flared end on the pipe appears to fit into a grove in the connector and it seals itself against this plastic washer inside when you push the connector on. I just want to do this once and do it right.

Anybody else have any input on the connectors?

Otherwise I will find out on the 9th when the gates one comes in.

[Nate's Alero]

mine has never leaked, although i do get a whiff of coolant every once an a while though... don't lose it though... level's been the exact same since 01/04/10

[rustyballs_69]

Mine have never leaked either. I'm sure you could get them from the dealership for not too much. I just put one on a 2000 Malibu yesterday but I didn't pay for it so I don't know how much it costs.

[DOHC_tuner]

Its there for a reason. A rubber line directly on the metal piping will weaken due to the heat with in time. It as well does not provide a good seal with the high heat. Thus the quick disconnect allows the plastic to become the point of contact to join the rubber hose and the metal hose.

Ofcoarse they weaken as well over time but have a longer life span and help seal properly. Rust is the main issue and water is the main factor.

[Cliff8928]

Wow... that's a good one... I have rubber on metal connections in many places in older cars with no problems after many years.

Quick disconnects make it so much easier for the assembly line workers to put the engine in the car.

[Runaboveit]

So it turns out the Dorman part and the Gates one are the same exact thing. So save your money going to the stealership and go to any auto parts store and give them the part number 800-403 by Dorman. Even if they don't carry the Dorman brand, they can interchange the part number to their brand equivalent.