Trans rebuild

[Ryan from Ohio]

Has anyone ever done a trans rebuild yourself?

Ever since I changed my trans fluid 2 years ago I get a "surge" while driving. It seems to happen while accelerating slowly with slight stress. On very fast accelerations it will surge but big lumps of surge and very fast.

Now Im thinking of doing this myself. I see a few sets on E bay.

Any comments?

Can this be rebuilt in the car, or do I have to pull the transmission?

Im half tempted to just sell this car off and be done with it. So the degree of difficulty and expense will play a huge part in my decision. I dont have love for this car anymore- Im tired of it and want a different one. However finances are not the best right now... so thats what is keeping me in it (at this point).

[zzyzzx]

Are you sure that it's not fixable? I'm inclined to think that you used the wrong fluid, have the wrong fluid level, or something like that.

How many miles are on the car?
How many miles when you changed the transmission fluid?

Are you sure it's a surge, as in high transmission oil pump pressure or is it slipping and then catching as in maybe low fluid level?

[colonel6632]

to rebuild your tranny, you have to pull the tranny, and it is quite hard i'm sure. so you can probably do it, but it'll take a while.

[Ryan from Ohio]

I changed the trans fluid at about 120K

Im at 155K now.

When I added fluid I guessed at how much. Turns out I had to much fluid when I finally figured out how to check it a month ago...

All I know is when Im accelerating or climbing a hill the tach will surge. On regular driving its just a bit. With the hammer down its pretty extreme. The transmission doesnt feel like it is slipping. I dont know how to describe it really.

After the last response Im more inclined to just unload the car and be done with it. Im not in the mood to pull the transmission, spend upwards $300 to rebuild it and "hope" I did it right and it all works.

Bottom line is I pretty much am tired of this car.

Guess its new car time and just run this into the ground, wait until she lets go totally, or pay the piper to fix it.

I just dont understand how transmission shops charge $1500 to rebuild a transmission in a $2,000 car... I wont be doing that.

[zzyzzx]

All I know is when Im accelerating or climbing a hill the tach will surge. On regular driving its just a bit. With the hammer down its pretty extreme.

It's supposed to downshift when climbing a hill or when you "put the hammer down". I don't see a problem here, assuming that you put the right type of transmission fluid back in when you did the change.

I think you are looking for an excuse to get rid of the car.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Im not really ready to buy another car. However if it makes more sense than dumping money into my current one then I will.

I know how it should shift and its not right. Trying to describe what its doing is not easy.

I will see if I can get a video of the tach for you guys. That will tell it better than I can.

As far as fluid goes, I used what I was supposed to. Im not incompetent. However I wants sure where to check it and guessed at the fluid amount. When it started doing this I figured I was low so I added more fluid. I probably drove for 2 years with 3 quarts mroe fluid than i should of had...

[heineck]

I just dont understand how transmission shops charge $1500 to rebuild a transmission in a $2,000 car... I wont be doing that.

its just all labor, cuz theres a lot of hours just to get it out, on my other car i was quoted 1600 just for a HG, and 1800 for replace the tranny main pump seal on my sisters taurus, the seal was only 12.50. so i did it myself and it only took 2 days to do. its just all labor

u replaced the tranny filter when u changed the fluid right?
do u have the 3400?
get a vid so we can see wats goin on ;)

[zzyzzx]

When it started doing this I figured I was low so I added more fluid. I probably drove for 2 years with 3 quarts mroe fluid than i should of had...

As long as the fluid level is fine now, I would not worry about previous overfilling.

[Ryan from Ohio]

^ 3400 yes. I will work on a vid this weekend.

^^ Well I never had any of these surge issues until after the fluid/filter change.

[zzyzzx]

I'd also test the TPS and the VSS since they are inputs to the transmission. I'm not sure about this car, but on most the TPS is just a variable resistor and can be easily tested with a multimeter set on ohms and a spare wiring harness piece (with the car off and you moving the throttle manually). The only way that I can think of to test the VSS is if your cruise control works fine than assume it's fine. Based upon your symptoms I would definately check the TPS and not worry so much about the VSS.

[zzyzzx]

In case there is any doubt, I don't think you need a rebuild your transmission. I suspect you have a problem with your TPS, the fluid itself, or maybe the transmission oil pump, or the transmission oil pump pressure (which on some cars is easily adjustable). You might have high transmission oil pump pressure, which is the opposite of what I would expect on a car with that many miles, but if you did something like put in the wrong fluid and that made the transmission oil pressure higher, I could see it happening. Furthermore, you could have done the fluid and filter change right, but somehow accidentally adjusted the trasnmission oil pump pressure up.

I can say for a fact that at least on my 1995 Escort:
VSS fails = not upshifting
TPS problems = sometimes not shifting where it's supposed to
Low transmission oil pressure = soft shifts
High transmissiin oil pressure = harder shifts (which is not necessarily bad)
Externally adjustable transmission oil pressure via a cable.
Transmission shifter linkage could get confused if motor or transmission mounts are bad (I.E. - You have it it D, and it thinks it it's in 3
Electrical corrosion on connectors on outside of transmission, which causes intermittent electrical connection to valves in transmission.

You may even have some sort of other valve body problem, given the number of miles on the car. The solenoids do go bad. Nothing that you wrote about suggests that it needs a rebuild, or is anything you can't fix yourself.

[Redog]

A transmission is not an easy thing to rebuild esp today's transmissions with all the elertonics and what not.

I know to rebuild a simple TH-350, you need speical tools.

All I would do would be put a shift kit in an old school GM tranny and even that's questionable for me

[Cliff8928]

Actually I think the newer transmissions are easier. There isn't really as much to them.. You just need to make sure you keep your solenoids in order, and be meticulously clean!

I dropped the valve body in my mom's 4L65-E, replaced the accumulator pistons (3), the servos (2) and the boost valve. I had it done in the better part of a sunday, along with the driveline fluids.

[Fuzzyspudkiss]

is what is happening to your car similar to this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4kUJIlGPk4 it happens the most at :30

because this is what my car is doing...and i'm curious to why, It even sets off the SES light...but then the light goes off after a while of just driving. When i take off from stops it surges as well...but it is always off and on, not a constant problem...

[Ryan from Ohio]

Either the sound is messed up or my computer is. Couldnt make your vid out to well.

I dont think thats what mine is doing though.

[Cliff8928]

is what is happening to your car similar to this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4kUJIlGPk4 it happens the most at :30

because this is what my car is doing...and i'm curious to why, It even sets off the SES light...but then the light goes off after a while of just driving. When i take off from stops it surges as well...but it is always off and on, not a constant problem...

You totally have a misfire condition there... Definitely not good for your cat.

[Weazel]

is what is happening to your car similar to this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4kUJIlGPk4 it happens the most at :30


you hit VTACCC

[Fuzzyspudkiss]

you hit VTACCC

What does that mean? :huh:

[TheEdgeofSanity]

Ryan, my car has been doing the same thing forever as well and nobody ever seems to understand. by any chance does it do it less when the car is cold compared to hot?

[Cashdollar2009]

What does that mean? :huh:

It's a joke, ignore. lol

[Fuzzyspudkiss]

It's a joke, ignore. lol

I figured as much...but i could not create a phrase out of the acronym...

[Nate's Alero]

TCCS, mine used to do it, but i installed an external tranny cooler. no more issues

[Ryan from Ohio]

Ryan, my car has been doing the same thing forever as well and nobody ever seems to understand. by any chance does it do it less when the car is cold compared to hot?

Not really. Its very hard to describe. Its not always doing it... But when it does it I know it.

TCCS, mine used to do it, but i installed an external tranny cooler. no more issues

A tccs? Whats that?

[Nate's Alero]

Not really. Its very hard to describe. Its not always doing it... But when it does it I know it.



A tccs? Whats that?
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. Just install a small Aftermarket trans cooler. will be fine afterwards. And change the fluid again.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Thats what locks the torque converter solid so theres no slippage?

This could explain my poor gas mileage...

Also, When I used to work 50 miles away I would cruise the freeway at 65-70 MPH. I noted my RPM's. Now I notice to achieve those speeds my RPMs are higher...

I might just replace this thing and see if theres any difference.

If anyone out there with the 3400 can set cruise control at 60 MPH let me know your RPM once in overdrive.

I want to compare and test this idea.

[zzyzzx]

In reference to one the automotive challenges from the off topic section, check your brake light switch as well.

[zzyzzx]

Thats what locks the torque converter solid so theres no slippage?

This could explain my poor gas mileage...

It certainly would explain everything. A bad electrical connection to this solenoid or a flaky solenoid would cause these symptoms.

[Nate's Alero]

my RPM's in cruise, at 60 are about 1550.

[zzyzzx]

Ripped off from a webpage:

Most late-model automatics have some type of lockup torque converter to improve fuel economy. If the lockup fails to engage, there will be some slippage and fuel economy will drop. Causes here include a bad lockup solenoid, incorrect sensor input information to the transmission controller or PCM (typically a speed sensor) and hydraulic control problems. If the lockup fails to release, the engine may shudder and die when coming to a stop. Causes here include a faulty lockup solenoid, a sticking lockup valve, grounded lockup solenoid wiring or a missing lockup solenoid spacer plate screen.

But another thought had occured to me is that if your lockup converter is not locking up as it is supposed to, you could easily have burnt transmission fluid. This is not as bad as it sounds because if you catch it in time and fix the problem you don't have to rebuild the transmission. Burnt transmission fluid will be obvious because of it's exceptionally foul smell.

[zzyzzx]

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. Just install a small Aftermarket trans cooler. will be fine afterwards. And change the fluid again.

So you want them to treat the symptom instead of solving the problem?

[zzyzzx]

Seriously, some sort of valve body problem is probably easier to do than a LIM job. I honestly don't understand why many people who would go ahead and do a LIM or head gasket job, would just throw up their arms like a Frenchman if their transmission has some sort of a problem, as if they are helpless or like being bent over by a transmission shop.

[Nate's Alero]

So you want them to treat the symptom instead of solving the problem?

that IS the problem!!! the trans is running too hot!

remove the heat, and you get thicker, better fluid, and the lockup will function properly...

[zzyzzx]

that IS the problem!!! the trans is running too hot!

remove the heat, and you get thicker, better fluid, and the lockup will function properly...



The trans could be running hot because the torque converter solenoid is defective. Solving the problem removes the heat, AND improves gas mileage. Adding a cooler does not.

[zzyzzx]

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071217161250AA66BYo

From Yahoo Answers:

a few weeks ago i posted a question about my enging rpm's racing on my truck but i am still having trouble and looking for a solution. to recap i have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 4X4 automatic 5.2. problem i have is when i am on the highway doing a steady speed, the rpm's race up a few notches for about 2-4 seconds and then back down to where they were, and a few seconds later does it again. it doesnt do it in the city or stop and go. only steady highway speed. someone suggested a new throttle position sensor which i did replace but still have the same problem. the speed or nothing else changes, just the rpm's. what could be causing this or how can i fix this?

Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
why hasn't anyone mentioned the Torque Converter.

This is a symptom of a torque converter lockup solenoid going bad, or the torque converter itself. The only way this can be diagnosed is to have a transmission shop hook up a scan tool, and watch the live data of the solenoid duty cycle, while monitoring the input RPM vs. Engine RPM and the calculated slippage percentage.

[zzyzzx]

http://myfiero.oceanmoon.com/tag/solenoid

Read in the Torque Converter Lockup. section:

[Ryan from Ohio]

I had to replace one when it locked up solid on my old Beretta.

I will check my RPMs tonight on the way home compared to Nates. If my RPM is higher then I will replace the solenoid.

[Fuzzyspudkiss]

my RPM's in cruise, at 60 are about 1550.

Seriously? My RPMs are 1900 at cruise going 60 mph

[zzyzzx]

I had to replace one when it locked up solid on my old Beretta.

I will check my RPMs tonight on the way home compared to Nates. If my RPM is higher then I will replace the solenoid.

I would do more testing than just that. At the very lest look at the electrical connections and get an ohms reading on the solenoid.

[Ryan from Ohio]

At 65 MPH mine used to be 1875

70 it was 2000 I believe.

Nate check it.

I betcha this solenoid is my issue...

bastard solenoid! At least its easy to replace- 1/2 hour job or so.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Pics of speeds and RPMs

[zzyzzx]

Those RPM pics looks like thay match mine.

With that many miles on the car I'd clean ir replace the Idle control valve if it hasn't been repalced already, clean the throttle body and EGR lines and valve.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Well found out what the problem was:

http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31572

Fuel filter was clogged. Fuel pump was working hard.

Runs like a champ now.

[Ryan from Ohio]

^ Must be the humidity.

A couple days after that post it started doing it again...

THis weekend I bought a bottle of Trans X. Supposed to clean/free sticky solenoids, freshen up seals, etc. Genie in a bottle.

As of this post seems to be well worth the $5...

No more lope (as of yet). However I thought I had this issue fixed before... So only time will tell.

[zzyzzx]

Just read in another forum where someone had a dropped valve seat and was blaming the transmission for that too.

[lonnie]

I wonder if this could be the problem with the wifes Tarus...I'll have to check into this. Hell I know I need my filter replaced too...How much did it run...just to get an idea.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Filters run about $15, $10 for trans fluid or so.

Its kinda a messy job. So make sure to have ample cardboard down under your work area. Also two oil pans handy.