CAI Airflow Increase

[XanderWiFi]

I read reddogs post on increasing horsepower and it said to remove the fenderwell and other pieces parts to allow the CAI to pull cooler air more easily. Is this something that is just done for the track or does anyone else do it for everyday driving purpose. And if so, have you had any issues? Common sense tells me that I would not want my CAI and K&N filter out in the open for anyone to see and just grab off. But also, would anyone take the time to notice.

Are there any safe everyday recommendations for increasing airflow to the CAI and heck, the engine compartment as a whole? I searched "increasing airflow" and didn't get anything back. So I open it up, and with a more search friendly title.

[widbyj]

Common practice is to run a tube through the inner fender near the windshield washer fluid tank into the area below the headlight. When the filter is positioned in there it gets plenty of cooler outside air, is hard to see and is protected from rain spray. This works well in my environment because we have little rain to deal with, there could be issues in very wet climates (and don't go through any deep puddles!).

As far as more airflow through the engine compartment altogether (a desireable thing) there is no easy solution. Best would be to have some sort of reverse scoop or louvers installed so that air can get out from under the hood. I don't know of any pre-built solution for this. Any good 'Hot Rod' bodyshop should be able to louver the hood for a price. I went with a dual fan setup from Flex-A-Lite which replaces the factory fans and moves a LOT more air, it's a bit loud but pushes all that air past the engine and down under the car.

Improving the exhaust system with a ceramic coated header will also take a lot of heat away from the engine compartment, especially with a free-flow cat and muffler...

[AleroB888]

...Are there any safe everyday recommendations for increasing airflow to the CAI and heck, the engine compartment as a whole? I searched "increasing airflow" and didn't get anything back. ....

Not really, but you could put a duct to the opening at the driver's side of the air dam to the CAI, make a bigger air dam, scoop air to the upper intake manifold ::)

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Gflash01/004.jpg?t=1278903743

[lord2heart]

i actually thought about louvers on the hoods of the aleros. has anybody done them? not sure how they would look. if it'l look clean then awesome

[lord2heart]

Improving the exhaust system with a ceramic coated header will also take a lot of heat away from the engine compartment, especially with a free-flow cat and muffler...

does it warm up just fine in the winter?

[XanderWiFi]

Common practice is to run a tube through the inner fender near the windshield washer fluid tank into the area below the headlight. When the filter is positioned in there it gets plenty of cooler outside air, is hard to see and is protected from rain spray. This works well in my environment because we have little rain to deal with, there could be issues in very wet climates (and don't go through any deep puddles!).

As far as more airflow through the engine compartment altogether (a desireable thing) there is no easy solution. Best would be to have some sort of reverse scoop or louvers installed so that air can get out from under the hood. I don't know of any pre-built solution for this. Any good 'Hot Rod' bodyshop should be able to louver the hood for a price. I went with a dual fan setup from Flex-A-Lite which replaces the factory fans and moves a LOT more air, it's a bit loud but pushes all that air past the engine and down under the car.

Improving the exhaust system with a ceramic coated header will also take a lot of heat away from the engine compartment, especially with a free-flow cat and muffler...

Mine almost gets there. I imagine I would need a sharper bend-but my CAI already is against the fenderwell. I remember you suggesting the flex-a-lite fans before but I thought they weren't stock replacements-just smaller additional fans to mount?

Not really, but you could put a duct to the opening at the driver's side of the air dam to the CAI, make a bigger air dam, scoop air to the upper intake manifold ::)

http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Gflash01/004.jpg?t=1278903743


Air dam...not sure where that is anatomically on the car...

[widbyj]

CAI location sounds good enough.

The Flex-A-Lite I used replaces all of the OEM stuff and doubles the flow. Might be able to run from the factory wiring but I got their variable speed controller instead, probably need to use relays as these draw more power. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-420/ (maybe measure first, memory failing...)

The 'Air Dam' is the lowest area of the front of the car, intended to limit the amount of air that gets underneath. On these cars the OEM one can be made much more effective, just remember to use flexible material so you can go over bumps. You can also fab material to direct air coming in through the front of the bumper so that it flows towards the intake (some people remove the drivers headlight assembly for trials). Be creative, mostly it won't be visible...

[AleroB888]

.....Air dam...not sure where that is anatomically on the car...

Look under the bumper, driver's side, you'll see a rectangular opening. You can look through it and see the washer bottle in there, and should be able to see the CAI, too. There usually is no shortage of airflow to that area. Around past the fog lamp as well.

[XanderWiFi]

Ah. Last time I looked at this post it wouldn't download the pics. Yeah, I cleared out all of the stock air intake and filter so it is pretty open. I just wonder how much airflow gets through there.

[AleroB888]

Ah. Last time I looked at this post it wouldn't download the pics. Yeah, I cleared out all of the stock air intake and filter so it is pretty open. I just wonder how much airflow gets through there.

What pics?

Anywho, for the small openings I mentioned, estimating about 18 square inches of effective area, then I got that at about 660 cfm @ 60 mph.

[XanderWiFi]

I try to ensure that the maximum amount of filter area is exposed to draw the most air. I just worry that with the Texas heat, the engine gets so hot that it doesn't operate as a CAI anymore but just an extended WAI.

I am sure you mean more space=more air. but not certain about all the cfm and whatnot.

[widbyj]

does it warm up just fine in the winter?

Definitely not as fast as OEM, but acceptable.

Flowing without restriction keeps the exhaust side much cooler than stock (using 3"). I'm the kinda guy that would leave my car running in the drive for 5 minutes or so before I go anywhere when it's really cold out anyhow. Mostly it's a non-issue cause the engine will still get to standard temps in about the same amount of time before the thermo opens and/or fans come on. When it's really cold out around here most people block half the radiator with cardboard anyhow, not that I agree. I also bypassed the manifold coolant loop because the S/C warms the air enough. Must admit I haven't driven during a snow storm yet, humid cold air is when icing of the throttle-body could be a problem, I have had a carb freeze-up before (no fun).

[widbyj]

... I just worry that with the Texas heat, the engine gets so hot that it doesn't operate as a CAI anymore but just an extended WAI...

The tubing itself can be an issue because it absorbs heat from the engine and then passes that heat into the air being drawn in.

Aluminum is probably the worst offender even though superior to plastics in all other ways (note that the intake manifold is plastic) (possibly a point in favor of the Spectre plastic-chrome tubing pieces). Using a thermal wrap, like for exhaust systems, will work in reverse to help block heat from the intake. You would want to wrap between the throttle-body and the fender opening, the rest will be at outside temp. You can use advanced diagnostic tools to view the IAT (Inlet Air Temp) and/or a gauge could be setup.

[lord2heart]

I have had a carb freeze-up before (no fun).

must of been a really cold day. couldnt you just taken a hairdryer to it?

also, didnt think the TB could freeze up. what froze? the plate in the TB?

[xnick]

must of been a really cold day. couldnt you just taken a hairdryer to it?

also, didnt think the TB could freeze up. what froze? the plate in the TB?

The throttle plate can freeze open a little bit, but more importantly is the IAC valve freezing.

[widbyj]

must of been a really cold day. couldnt you just taken a hairdryer to it?

also, didnt think the TB could freeze up. what froze? the plate in the TB?

Worst time was at about 20 degrees; I was about 55 miles from home going over a mountain pass of 5,000+ feet during a very heavy snowstorm. '73 Olds was running strong at about 2k rpms or 60mph when the ice formed on the carb plates, an Edelbrock. Didn't really notice until I tried to slowdown on the backside going downhill, not! All I could do was shut it off and pull over. Engine heat melted it all after 10 minutes or so.

TB could freeze also, that's why they run coolant through it. If I drove this car stock in winter I probably would have left it connected. The ice builds on the edges of the throttle plate first, kinda like an airplane wing - then around the shaft area.