Overlay Installation

[XanderWiFi]

I just received my overlay from a recent partout and yes, I purchased it before completely knowing how to install it. Figure it will be a learning process...but I'm a bit baffled from the get-go.

The overlay pieces have scotch tape on the back of them and I am not sure if that is a good sign. There is the converter box with the obvious red=hot wire and black=ground wire.

Then there is the switch box coming off of the converter...with what appears to be an on/off switch and possible a dimmer roller?

I have read that grey is hot in the console and black is the ground wire. I have also heard going around through the center console and other times going around the left vent. All in all I am a bit confused-and where the heck am I supposed to put that dimming/on/off controller?

All guage installs I've only seen the flashy light and lights and just assumed they constructed the overlay to have the light shine through it in that manner. Nieve and hopeful maybe-but I did not expect this and since my alero is my daily driver I cannot afford to be installing blindly and not be able to get it back together in time.

Any chance I can get some mercy info on the installation please? If this is in fact the overlay many people have. I'm an amateur mechanic at best and much worse with electrical. But all of life is a learning experience right?

[Gr1m]

hookup the positive/negative leads on the wire to the cubby hole light (under your HVAC controls) this way when your headlights automatically go on, the gauge overlays will automatically go on.

TO REMOVE:
two 8mm screws on the top hold the thing that goes around the gauges
then 4 more 8mm screws hold the gauges into the dash board.
unplug the large connector in the top right of the gauges and remove the entire assembly.
pry open the tabs all around the gauge to open the clear case and get into the actual gauge.
put the overlays in in place over the corresponding gauge.
(you might want to use some scotch tape to get the overlays to stay in the perfect spot, because they might move around like mine did with vibrations and bumps.)

reassemble and enjoy.

[[ion] C2]

edited, gr1m beat me

[whiterider00]

7mm screws, not 8mm. but im sure you could have figured that out.

[cherrington17]

alot of people omit the dimmer completely, because if you patch into a gray wire, your in car dimmer will work too.

[tw0123]

sorry to thread jack...
I have heard that some people have used actual wiring behind the gauge cluster itself, but which wires are used back there? It would be easier to keep everything behind the cluster and not have to re route all the way down to the HVAC cubby light...
Just my 2 cents, but I am hoping to get some further clarification...

[cherrington17]

not really... you want a longer run, preferably with a disconnect, for simplicity.

if you have to remove your cluster, its already a compact area. its easier to trace a wire to a more open area and disconnect it from there, rather then fighting in a small area. IMO

[tw0123]

I somewhat agree with you, but if you have to disconnect, chances are you have to remove the overlay, which means removing the cluster anyways... so why not have it all wired up back there, rather than further away with the HVAC? There is ample wire provided with the overlay to pull the cluster out far enough to get in there for wiring purposes, so why not keep it all together in the first place?

[Alerosaint]

I did it like tw0123 said.....The harness that comes out the cluster in the back pretty much hangs out so its not hard to manipulate and get a good splice work going there. The wires is not hard to find just look through the bunch...but then again I work on airplanes that pretty much have no room to do anything so thats why i probably found it fairly easy =S

[XanderWiFi]

alot of people omit the dimmer completely, because if you patch into a gray wire, your in car dimmer will work too.

I like the idea of that rather than having random switches and controls hanging about. I assume I can just let the aftermarket overlay control stay behind the overlay possibly? Like to keep things neat and clean looking.

Is this gray wire in the center console as well? Wondering how difficult it is to run wiring behind all of this? Does it look like I will have enough slack? Don't have a soldering gun either, would you recommend clips at all cherry?

Speaking of soldering guns-what is a good one that you would recommend cher?

thanks for the aid so far guys.

[cherrington17]

I've used radioshack ones, for everything. They aren't the best (I think that'd be weller) but they work. 35W should do. 25 is a pain in the ass, and 45 is REALLY hot.. sometimes too hot. also, get a couple extra tips, you'll eventually need them.

If you take your cluster surround out (plastic bezel) you'll see a hole on the right side, which drops right down to the side of the center console. So you need less wire then you think.

and if your going to let the dimmer hang... put some tape on it to hold it somewhere. the tapping of that thing bouncing around would drive someone insane

[heineck]

i just cut my dimmer out... u dont need 2 on the same line

[tw0123]

I did it like tw0123 said.....The harness that comes out the cluster in the back pretty much hangs out so its not hard to manipulate and get a good splice work going there. The wires is not hard to find just look through the bunch...but then again I work on airplanes that pretty much have no room to do anything so thats why i probably found it fairly easy =S

Which wires did you use (colors specifically) just to let anyone else know who wants to try this... Last time I checked there were 9 different wires going into the cluster lol...

[a4d2a0m]

I use the dimmer control for the overlays still so i can control the brightness independantly from the needles.. the overlays can be pretty damn bright. I used scotch double sided tape (its a must)

I took apart my cluster and put tape on the backside of the overlays, went out to my car plugged in the open cluster left it on the steering column. slid a piece into place and turned on the car so I could line up the cluster lights to the overlays, once it was perfectly alligned, i pressed it down to stick. just have to turn the key off an on a few times to verify. If the lights didn't line up perfect it would of bugged me..
It makes it very easy to look perfect with the lights being on in the cluster during installation.

I also put white paper on the back over the warning light "holes" so it looks alot cleaner during the day, and the light still shine through well..


Pictures: http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31216 10th post..

[XanderWiFi]

I use the dimmer control for the overlays still so i can control the brightness independantly from the needles.. the overlays can be pretty damn bright. I used scotch double sided tape (its a must)

I took apart my cluster and put tape on the backside of the overlays, went out to my car plugged in the open cluster left it on the steering column. slid a piece into place and turned on the car so I could line up the cluster lights to the overlays, once it was perfectly alligned, i pressed it down to stick. just have to turn the key off an on a few times to verify. If the lights didn't line up perfect it would of bugged me..
It makes it very easy to look perfect with the lights being on in the cluster during installation.

I also put white paper on the back over the warning light "holes" so it looks alot cleaner during the day, and the light still shine through well..


Pictures: http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31216 10th post..


When you lined the overlay up, you left the stock one in to match it better? How do you get the stock one out after lining it up? Or do you just leave it permanently?

[a4d2a0m]

just leave it in.. there is no need to remove it.

[XanderWiFi]

Which wires did you use (colors specifically) just to let anyone else know who wants to try this... Last time I checked there were 9 different wires going into the cluster lol...

bump for alerosaints input please.

And anyone know the thread title for the gauge overlay installation? Swore I saw one on here before but I can't find it now.

[XanderWiFi]

sweet. I have everything out and aligned, now the scary part for me. What is the best way to access the cubby wire harness? Also, where is a good place to attach the power box and run the extra wiring?

[XanderWiFi]

Which of these settings do I use for car wires? Specifically the one for the overlay?

[Philbar71]

DC Volts. Your cars electrical system is 12V so set the switch to 20V. It will read anything from 0-20V in that mode.

[XanderWiFi]

Very much appreciated Phil.

All I have left is to soder. Can someone verify that it is the gray and black wire to the cubby hole light that I will be sodering to?

And what is the best way to three way splice? I want to replace and use that bulb

[Philbar71]

No problem.

And if I recall... It's just a solid grey wire for all illumination through out the car... But, wait for somebody else to chime in because I could be mistaken.

[XanderWiFi]

Shoot need to read my own thread. Grim says yea at the top...here goes...first sodering try. Nervous as heck.

[XanderWiFi]

Thank you everyone for your input and assistance in this endeavor. I learned some new things and boosted my confidence quite a bit-especially pertaining to electrical since this was my first time soldering.

On to the next project!

[Ttop191]

looks good bro, props, you are learning :thumb:

[cherrington17]

:yahoo:

[XanderWiFi]

The power box buzzing is loud and irritating lol.

[cherrington17]

so remove it?

[XanderWiFi]

No there is actually a switch that allows you to change between light shades. One requires the power box, the other doesn't. Both look sharp.