How To Set Up

[havik]

Here's what I got:

Alpine CDA-9807 (http://www.epinions.com/pr-Car_Stereos_Changers_Alpine_CDA_9807_Radio_CD_MP3_ Player_CDA_9807/display_~full_specs) head unit
Rockford Fosgate 301s (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13424) amp
Infinity REF6402CFP (http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='REF6402CFP'&Ser=REF&Cat=MEL) 4" x 6" two way plate (x2)
Infinity 1230W (http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='1230W'&Ser=REF&Cat=SUB) 12" subwoofer (x2)

I admit I know little about car audio so I'm not sure how to set up this system. What guage wire should I use? What about a distribution block? Capacitor? Anything I'm overlooking? I know it would be easier to get someone to install it but I'm looking to install this myself if I can. Thanks in advance for you help.

[jamcllw]

I would use 8 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse. You don't need a distribution block because you only have 1 amp. Your not running enough watts to need a cap. Make sure you have a wiring harness, install kit, RCA cables, antenna adapter and speaker lead adapters(or you can cut your factory speaker wire).

[jamcllw]

Are those subs 4 or 8 ohms? If there 4 ohms yuo might want to take them back and get the 8 ohm subs so you can get a 4 ohm load to use your amp most effeciently. And those subs are going to be underpowered with that amp.

[b-spot]

Don't go buy a distributor block, you have one, its under the hood ;)

Oh, and have fun running wire throught the firewall. I absolutely hate working under there.

[havik]

The head unit is already installed. I used the PAC Audio replacement module. The subs are 4 ohms btw.

Oh, and have fun running wire throught the firewall. I absolutely hate working under there.

I've heard some horror stories, hopefully I'll have the patience. Anyone have any suggestions?

[b-spot]

What I would do is take a coat hanger, straighten it out, tape your wire along it, and curve it a bit so you can feed it up through the firewall to a spot you can reach on the other side.

[jamcllw]

I would definatly try and take back the subs and get 8 ohms. When you wire the 4 ohms up you can either have a 2 ohm load or a 8 ohm load. With a 2 ohm load you risk burning your amp up and with a 8 ohm load your probably only going to be pushing about 100 watts out of the amp. If you get 8 ohms subs you can wire them to a 4 ohm load and your amp will put out 300 watts.

[mikegett]

Go for the distribution block. It is always good to be prepared for any upgrades. Trust me when I say that this will not be your last purchase. Run a small 0 gauge shot to the distribution so that you will no loger have to worry about hooking up the battery. I would also think about running a larger gauge of wire back to the amp. Your wire can never be to large. However, if it is to small a fire and loss of wattage are very possible. The larger wire will ensure that a amplifier upgrade will not mean re-running 12 feet of cable. Running a second RCA would be wise if you plan to amp your speakers in the future. I run all of my RCA's straight back and between the seats. This allows for a shorter RCA (less money and less drop in the voltage) but requires the removal of the seats, dash, and carpet. It may be a days chore but in my opinion is well worth it. One suggestion. If anyone is contemplating the removal of the front seats be sure to leave all bolts loose when reinstalling. Then slide the seat forward and backward tightening one corner in a x pattern. This will keep the seat in a linear path and make the job much easier.

[Steve03TropicTeal]

Originally posted by b-spot@Aug 17 2004, 12:17 PM
What I would do is take a coat hanger, straighten it out, tape your wire along it, and curve it a bit so you can feed it up through the firewall to a spot you can reach on the other side.
i did this, and got it started, twisted the hanger around my hand and just freaking yanked!

wouldnt recommend this, but it worked! popped it through, no rips or anything!

[bigd6983]

Originally posted by Steve03TropicTeal+Aug 17 2004, 02:06 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Steve03TropicTeal @ Aug 17 2004, 02:06 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-b-spot@Aug 17 2004, 12:17 PM
What I would do is take a coat hanger, straighten it out, tape your wire along it, and curve it a bit so you can feed it up through the firewall to a spot you can reach on the other side.
i did this, and got it started, twisted the hanger around my hand and just freaking yanked!

wouldnt recommend this, but it worked! popped it through, no rips or anything! [/b][/quote]
um, dont do what he said up there lol........not good...

but what mike said is totally right, there is nothing wrong with going the distribution block with id say a 4 gauge wire and an extra set of rca's.........adding that extra amp would be really easy when you got to it......


like i tell anyone i recomend circuit breakers, no fuses to replace ever, dont hafta have any fuses in the car in case it goes and if you dont you got to drive around with no stereo until you can get some, and if you blow it, flip the switch to reset........and i got mine for like 14 bucks......

you could go a cap if you plan on upgrading, it wouldnt hurt but if you dont plan on it what you got is fine......just be patient.....

[havik]

Originally posted by jamcllw@Aug 17 2004, 12:26 PM
With a 2 ohm load you risk burning your amp up.
The amp states: 150 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms. So how do I run the risk of burning the amp? Again, I know crap about audio but is it because 150 W x 2 = 300 W (which is the wattage for this amp) so it's "too close" to the amps wattage? :blink:

Also, why is it that for 4 ohm subs, they can only have a 2 or 8 ohm load?

[havik]

Another thing: It states that the 301s is a 900 Watt 2 channel amp. So why is the highest wattage 300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms??

[b-spot]

I'm assuming 900W is peak power rating, not RMS. Alpine is about the only company that actually rates there poop RMS on the box, and not peak.

[cwm33]

yeah 900 is your peak wattage.

and you have to bridge it down at 4 ohms to get it down to a 1 channel for a sub...I personally prefer mono-block amps for this very same reason, don't have to fart around so much with that.

[jamcllw]

Alpine's not the only one. I know quite a few brands that do sell them based on RMS. Rockford used to be really good high quality stuff. They still are good but a lot of people knock them because they started to allow big store such as Best Buy carry there stuff. Rockford in my opinion started slipping when the got rid of the "a" series amps. There new stuff from what I've read is getting better but I've yet to test 1 for myself.
Back about 5-6 years ago you could walk into a sound shop and look to spend about $1 per watt on a good amp. Now the market is so huge that the big name stuff looks like such a rip off because of the low name stuff selling a 1000 watt amp for $200 even though it only puts out about 250-300 watts RMS. If you want a good strong amp that does what it says look to spend about $.75 to $1.00 per watt.

[mikegett]

If the amp is stating 900 watts but has a 300 watt RMS do not count on getting out 900 watts. If it was 2 ohm stable bridged then it might happen. Otherwise assume that you will be gettin around 700 watts max (most likely in 2 ohm only). Even the best amp on the maket will not double in actual wattage. One of the easiest ways to check is by a amps fuse rating. Wattage and amps have a linear relationship.
Your amp is rated for 2 ohm but not 2 ohm mono(bridged). This is why you will have to run the speakers at eight ohms bridged or run one channel to each sub. If you had a set of 8 ohm subs you could bridge the amp and run them at 4 ohms.

[mikegett]

I am not sure where you got the 900 watt max rating for your amp. It only requires a 30 amp fuse. This is going to give you a max of around 450 watts. My eclipse 3322 (45 amps) is a 2 x 85 watt or 350 RMS. Max of 560. I have bench tested the max to be max prior to clipping. Otherwise you are talking around 600 watts. I would strongly suggest taking the amp back and going for a mono block for those subs. Otherwise you are going to run the risk of damaging the coil at 8 ohms. Remember that distortion kills speakers. Subs are very inefficient and require a larg amount of wattage to move the cone. Otherwise it will distort and cause heat. This heat will eventually kill the voice coil. Always try to get a larger amp than the subs require and lower the gain. This will give you the best sound and reduce the likelyhood of damage.