A/C Stopped Working Since Last Year

[dbailey]

Am stumped and need some direction on what to check first. A/C nor defroster not cooling fans work when a/c turned on.

I looked at what I think are the fuses that control the a/c and they looked good. Don't know how to check the relay.

My first impression was the knobs in the dash that control everything so I grabbed one on eBay and installed it and no better.

The fan works in all speeds and switches from dash, to floor, to defrost but the compressor doesn't come on in any position. Even when the recirculate button is pushed the compressor doesn't come on.

Don't have gauges to check pressures and am trying to keep from spending the money to pay a mechanic to check it out until I'm down to that as the last resort.

Can anybody that is familiar with the system give me some ideas on what can be checked without having to take it to a shop? Thanks gents. ;)

[03glgold]

There are the cans if store bought refrigerant with pressure gauges if you really dont want to pay a shop, another option is to find a shop giving free a/c checks but be prepared for them to want to fix it

[dbailey]

Thanks. Was thinking that, too. Hoping there are other things that I haven't thought about checking out before I take that step.

[rocketfast321]

Put gauges on it so we can see if you just need to add 134a or see if we have deeper problems

[dbailey]

Will do. My buddy is the store manager of a Firestone over here so he'll probably check it and not charge me. I hope!

Can you check the pressures if the compressor will not engage?

[Bluestreak]

Get a set of gauges on it. We need to know low and high side pressures to better pinpoint what the problem is. You can get a cheap set of gauges for under $30-$50 at most AC supply shops. They are a very worthwhile investment, because AC systems are quite simple once you know how to connect a set of gauges and read what they're telling you.

Just using the off-the-shelf cans with a cheap low-side gauge won't provide enough information. If it's blowing air but not getting cold, there's a problem within the system itself - a refrigerant leak, a clogged orifice or bad TXV, or possibly a failing/failed compressor.

[negolien]

It was $100 here to do a refill at my firestone then extra for every ounce over a certain amount :( All the shops rape you for A/C work.

[zzyzzx]

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.

Look here, it's really all you need, if you have the V6 (will work on the 4 cylinder engine as well):
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34167

Adding r133a is easier than an oil change. Probably at the difficulty level of changing the air filter.

I bet you have a leak and are just low of r134a. Amazon sells 12 packs of 12oz cans cheap enough:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-6312-12PK-R-134a-Refrigerant-Pack/dp/B00C873Y60/
Buy some now before it gets hot. The price only goes up from here until next winter.

I put at least 2 cans of these in my Alero last summer. If I could find the leak I would fix it, but can not even with an electronic detector and various dye packs.

This thread probably belongs in the Common Questions & Troubleshooting area. The only Alero specific info you need is if you have the V6 since you need to know that the compressor is supposed to be always on (when turned on) and you need a longer hose to add r134a (unless you want to burn your arm).

[dbailey]

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.

Look here, it's really all you need, if you have the V6 (will work on the 4 cylinder engine as well):
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34167

Adding r143a is easier than an oil change. Probably at the difficulty level of changing the air filter.

I bet you have a leak and are just low of r134a. Amazon sells 12 packs of 12oz cans cheap enough:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-6312-12PK-R-134a-Refrigerant-Pack/dp/B00C873Y60/
Buy some now before it gets hot. The price only goes up from here until next winter.

I put at least 2 cans of these in my Alero last summer. If I could find the leak I would fix it, but can not even with an electronic detector and various dye packs.

2000 with the 3.4 V6

[zzyzzx]

2000 with the 3.4 V6

I still think you are low on r134a. Likely places for a leak are the compressor and the high and low r134a ports (especially the high side port). Yes, I have a 1999 V6 and may just replace the compressor and hope that stops my leakage. For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.

[dbailey]

I still think you are low on r134a. Likely places for a leak are the compressor and the high and low r134a ports (especially the high side port). Yes, I have a 1999 V6 and may just replace the compressor and hope that stops my leakage. For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.

Good point. That may be what I wind up doing. Am actually getting ready to sell it so don't want to dump a bunch of money in it that I'll never see. ;)

[Bluestreak]

Never use anything with STOP LEAK in it, it will ruin your system, and the only way to fix it is to replace the ENTIRE system. Most reputable shops have stop-leak detectors, and they won't hook their machines to your car if they detect it.

For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.
Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

Also, when hooking up to your system, be careful not to over-depress the Schrader valve. They're easily damaged and a very common leak point when serviced by novices.

[dbailey]

Never use anything with STOP LEAK in it, it will ruin your system, and the only way to fix it is to replace the ENTIRE system. Most reputable shops have stop-leak detectors, and they won't hook their machines to your car if they detect it.


Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

Also, when hooking up to your system, be careful not to over-depress the Schrader valve. They're easily damaged and a very common leak point when serviced by novices.

Good points! Probably gonna take it to my buddy at Firestone. He said he'd just charge me $20 to hook it up to his system and check it out. Probably not a bad deal.

[zzyzzx]

Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

I am! PAG150 with ICE32, to be specific.

http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/4580100/GPH6.JPG

I inject it into my charging hose assembly then chase it with r134a. Having said that, if the oil really were escaping with the refrigerant I would have found the leak by now. Except maybe on the compressor. It's filthy since my LIM leak leaked all over it.

[negolien]

Never heard anyone mention adding oil with refrigerant recharges before.

[Bluestreak]

They make special tools for it. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-16256-R-134A-Injector-Coupler/dp/B000NP3OBY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398451017&sr=8-2&keywords=ac+oil+injector). I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems. :)

[dbailey]

Checked the fuses and good there. Checked the relay and it clicked when power put to it so that's good. Put power to the compressor clutch and it clicked so that's good. Guess the next thing to check now is the Freon level when I can get it to my buddy's shop.

[negolien]

They make special tools for it. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-16256-R-134A-Injector-Coupler/dp/B000NP3OBY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398451017&sr=8-2&keywords=ac+oil+injector). I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems. :)

Nice Still I seen alot of people add Freon to a car a/c system, heard a lot of suggestions on here for refills and never heard any of them mention the necessity of adding oil.

[dbailey]

They make special tools for it. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-16256-R-134A-Injector-Coupler/dp/B000NP3OBY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398451017&sr=8-2&keywords=ac+oil+injector). I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems. :)

You da man! Does it sound like low Freon to you after what I said I did checking the fuses and making sure the relay clicks and that the compressor clutch clicked? Thanks.

[rocketfast321]

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.


The I4 doesn't cycle, it's the same style as the v6. And as long as a a/c system is ran for 10 to 20 mins a week you will not have a problem.

[dbailey]

The I4 doesn't cycle, it's the same style as the v6. And as long as a a/c system is ran for 10 to 20 mins a week you will not have a problem.

I knew that and why I didn't do it thru the winter heaven only knows! :cry: Getting old sux!

[Starglow]

If the refrigerant level is too low then the compressor will not run. The cooling fans also will not run at high speed until the AC system pressure reaches a set point. If the system isn't completely empty of refrigerant, then you can charge it to get by until you can repair the leak but some shops will refuse to recharge a leaking AC system. If the system is completely empty of refrigerant, then you have to replace the accumulator and orifice tube along with repairing the leak.

There are leak detectors that work quite well or you can add dye and use a black light and special glasses to find the leak. The compressor case seam was leaking on mine so I bought a GPD compressor kit from Rockauto that comes with a brand new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and new seal kit. I installed everything myself and the AC works great.

[Starglow]

I am! PAG150 with ICE32, to be specific.

http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/4580100/GPH6.JPG

I inject it into my charging hose assembly then chase it with r134a. Having said that, if the oil really were escaping with the refrigerant I would have found the leak by now. Except maybe on the compressor. It's filthy since my LIM leak leaked all over it.


The system only requires a specific amount of PAG oil and adding too much can cause damage just the same as not having enough. I've seen refrigerant cans that also include oil in them, but in reality adding more oil probably isn't really necessary if just topping off the system charge. The AC system doesn't require a whole lot of PAG oil to begin with.

[Bluestreak]

Does it sound like low Freon to you after what I said I did checking the fuses and making sure the relay clicks and that the compressor clutch clicked?
If the clutch is cycling, and the compressor doesn't make any strange noise when it starts up, it could be low refrigerant. Without gauge readings, it's one of many possibilities.

The system only requires a specific amount of PAG oil and adding too much can cause damage just the same as not having enough. I've seen refrigerant cans that also include oil in them, but in reality adding more oil probably isn't really necessary if just topping off the system charge. The AC system doesn't require a whole lot of PAG oil to begin with.


First - you're not going to "overadd" oil. It'll end up at the bottom of the accumulator, slowly adding itself to the refrigerant stream. The accumulator prevents the system from slugging the compressor with liquid (BAD!). Unless you add, say 4-6 ozs. or something ridiculous (WRONG!) ... which brings me to my next point...
Second - The maximum my oil syringe adds is 10 ml. My Alero just hit 68,000 miles and I had to add 3/4-lb. of R-134a. I would suggest adding 4~5-ml of oil to the low-side for every lb. of refrigerant you add. That's not excessive. That's maintenance.


Like I said, of course, you're NOT adding an entire can. Just a few cc's. If you've only added refrigerant to your system, and never added a bolster shot of PAG... well, NAPA sells good replacement kits for around $250-ish.

[negolien]

Our Saturn had over 140,000 miles and we never added any oil to the A/C and always did our own refills /shrug.

[03glgold]

my alero is at 180k never had the a/c serviced or refilled and when it was 90 on saturday and had it on I confirmed that it still has the ability to freeze you out of the car

[negolien]

my alero is at 180k never had the a/c serviced or refilled and when it was 90 on saturday and had it on I confirmed that it still has the ability to freeze you out of the car

You've owned it since it was new?

[03glgold]

I was with my aunt and uncle when they bought it new and have done most of the service since new

[03glgold]

At around 50k miles it went from being their family vehicle (my aunts car) to my uncles work car and he was usually deployed during the summer so a/c didnt get used a whole lot being as it was usually in storage during a/c weather, so that may have some effect

[dbailey]

Charged system and all is good. I guess not having to charge it for over 225,000 miles ain't so bad. Same compressor and everything. From what I've read I should consider myself REAL lucky! Shew! ;)

[zzyzzx]

Charged system and all is good. I guess not having to charge it for over 225,000 miles ain't so bad. Same compressor and everything. From what I've read I should consider myself REAL lucky! Shew! ;)

Report back when you have to charge it again.

[dbailey]

Report back when you have to charge it again.

After having her for 11 years and over 200,000 miles she's for sale so don't plan on being the one that has to recharge it when it needs it again. ;)

[dbailey]

Report back when you have to charge it again.

Sold it and the guy I sold it to said not long after he bought it that he had to get it charged again and it all leaked out again. Guess 230,000 miles on the original compressor just killed it. Hated that it happened to the guy I sold it to but I told him that I had just gotten it charged and dye put in it so I guess he forgot that I told him that when he had it recharged WITHOUT first checking for the dye. :cry: