New system for "new" car

[JonStoltz]

This is my system so far, getting an amp for my new speakers soon and relocating amp wire to battery eventually. You guys know what you're doing so im open to ideas/constructive criticism so lemme hear your opinion. For instance where should i put my speaker amp?

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsef88917e.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsef88917e.jpg.html)

Same car, different lighting..

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa0c07b38.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa0c07b38.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsead8a605.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsead8a605.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsff8dbc71.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsff8dbc71.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps66b47ae7.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps66b47ae7.jpg.html)

Bass volume control right where my hand rests.
http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscb10bc3e.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscb10bc3e.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps082b804f.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps082b804f.jpg.html)

[03glgold]

first things first...fix that rust spot, other than that nice car and setup seems to be going decent

[JonStoltz]

first things first...fix that rust spot, other than that nice car and setup seems to be going decent

Dude good effing eyes u got there lol

[Nas Escobar]

How many watts does your amp put out?

I see you have an 8ga wire. You shouldn't worry about relocation until you get to the big boys aka the 0's and the 4's.

I must ask now though, how many watts will you be making total? It will be easier to do a distribution block than running 2 parallel wires.

[JonStoltz]

800 rms sub and then eventually a 50 rms x 4 speaker. Whats a block do?

[Nas Escobar]

Splits a big wire into 2 smaller wires so you don't have a clutter of wiring all over your car.

I recommend you upgrade your alternator and do 100 watt speakers to compliment your subs.

400 watt speakers with an 800 watt sub will sound good. I personally would do 2 Kicker Comp V's but if you build a good box, a good 800 watt sub like the Kicker Comp R's will do nice.

[JonStoltz]

Splits a big wire into 2 smaller wires so you don't have a clutter of wiring all over your car.

I recommend you upgrade your alternator and do 100 watt speakers to compliment your subs.

400 watt speakers with an 800 watt sub will sound good. I personally would do 2 Kicker Comp V's but if you build a good box, a good 800 watt sub like the Kicker Comp R's will do nice.

I'd definitely do all that if i didnt have so many diapers and wipes and rent to buy lol for now i must compromise..

[negolien]

I'd put the amp on the back of the box. We need to know what your running rms wise from your amp.Really you should be fine for now. If your going to run more than one amp yes run a distribution block. You should be fine for the moment with alt and wires if you can't afford it.

[Nas Escobar]

I'd definitely do all that if i didnt have so many diapers and wipes and rent to buy lol for now i must compromise..

You can save money on wiring by buying welding wire instead of those name brand audio wires. It's an idea that's been around for a while, some recommend it, some don't. If you do go this route, make sure that the cable is flexible and the copper is stranded.

As far as speakers go, you can get some 100 watt Kickers for $70. My point is just save up a bit at a time. Doesn't have to be all at once.

Before we talk any further, what are the products you are considering?

I'd put the amp on the back of the box. We need to know what your running rms wise from your amp.Really you should be fine for now. If your going to run more than one amp yes run a distribution block. You should be fine for the moment with alt and wires if you can't afford it.

HE stated that later on he wants to amp the midranges/ door and shelf speakers. The distribution block would come then. Right now, all he needs to do is save up. The cable is fine, the sub is fine, the amp is fine. I don't see any piss poor installations in his car. I do see a Walmart head unit, but that's beside the point.

[JonStoltz]

Haha yea that was when i first bought the car and JUST HAD to have a head unit right then and there. If id learn patience id be a lot better off. Id rather put the speaker amp under the seat or something. Just not looking forward to all that wiring, with how anal i am itd probably take me all day to run to the trunk

[Nas Escobar]

If it works, it works. I'm not gonna knock your hustle. I will however tell you that with patience and searching, you can find a better head unit for cheap.

If your head isn't 6 preouts, you may have to swap it, or get the feed from your speaker connections.

[negolien]

You can save money on wiring by buying welding wire instead of those name brand audio wires. It's an idea that's been around for a while, some recommend it, some don't. If you do go this route, make sure that the cable is flexible and the copper is stranded.

As far as speakers go, you can get some 100 watt Kickers for $70. My point is just save up a bit at a time. Doesn't have to be all at once.

Before we talk any further, what are the products you are considering?



HE stated that later on he wants to amp the midranges/ door and shelf speakers. The distribution block would come then. Right now, all he needs to do is save up. The cable is fine, the sub is fine, the amp is fine. I don't see any piss poor installations in his car. I do see a Walmart head unit, but that's beside the point.

The best single din imo after searching Head units for a long time was the JVC arsenal I think they ran around $170. It comes with everything at the cheapest price. My Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS was the cheapest DD that came with everything but Nav . I'd probably ask s8track16 your audio questions he's the one I go to for audio questions and he's super helpful. I think the two of us are the ones that actually have systems and are currently active on the board atm. Oh and one other bit of advice and I' am going to sound like a douche so forgive me but....

Please for the love of god stop putting screws where they don't belong :rolleyes2: I think your the third gold package I have seen here besides myself and one other guy if that's what that is. That's a nice ride try and avoid zip tying things, putting screws into your center console if that's what you did there with the bass knob and other areas that they weren't originally meant to go . Don't put any huge ghetto side skirts on it lol...

I included a picture of my amp and wiring it's easy to make it neat and go under the carpeting and down the sides. Just remember to do the power and RCA's down different sides.

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee472/Negolien/th_april25014_zpscd373524.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/media/april25014_zpscd373524.jpg.html)

[JonStoltz]

So am i to avoid zip tying or screwing? Lol im a fan of the amp resting on the back seat tho while in down position unless i need to occupy that seat then just flip it up. Doesnt allow for fancy wire stealth since i need that slack for the seat to move but im cool with that. PLUS i heard years ago how its not healthy for the amp to be drilled right on the enclosure with all that vibration, whether its true or not idk but i dig this more anyway. And your right i should avoid visible screw holes but u cant see them currently and come time to sell the buyer can go suck it lol. Y do i need to run my cables down different sides? And nas im definitely gonna upgrade that head unit, do i need 6 preouts for the tweeters? You, Nas and S8track16 are all my go-to guys for audio. Learning a lot from u fellas.

[negolien]

Might rethink the amp in the open depending on where you live. I'd also suggest not playing your tunes loud until you're outside your parking lot or neighborhood. What kind of alarm do you have? I have the Clifford Matrix 2 way pager alarm they are fairly cheap at like $125 + install which is more than the alarm :<(..Frys sells em..they do good installs btw if ones near you. Price isn't that bad either.

The different sides avoids the dreaded buzz or whine you sometimes here. Never had issues with the amp getting pounded but it probably does take a huge beating you'll see that set up a lot. if you look at S8's competition rig his are mounted on the box also.
I don't do anything ghetto or ugly to my car. Less to do with the seller and more to do with me being anal about keeping my car nice. some link below...

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/story/29019

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/story/28607

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/story/28851

[a.graham52]

put that amp gain switch somewhere else! your only going to sit on it and break it off or move the seat and hit it... over and over and over.

[JonStoltz]

Its alright bud. seats not goin anywhere, im a pretty skinny lad so not gonna sit on it, havent had a problem yet i love it there! Couldnt be happier with my decisions, except maybe the head unit choice. negolien my biggest threat is a grizzly bear or deer eating my trash and i hear theyre not real into audio upgrades ;)

[negolien]

LOL AAAraghhh must be nice I live in a freaking ghetto. Thank god for 2 way pager alarms and CCW's :gun:

[negolien]

I almost forgot.. Where are you located? In case I need parts /giggle

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee472/Negolien/range%20day/sacvaleyshootingcenter018.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/media/range%20day/sacvaleyshootingcenter018.jpg.html)

[JonStoltz]

put that amp gain switch somewhere else! your only going to sit on it and break it off or move the seat and hit it... over and over and over.

I was going to put the bass knob in the pocket that the head unit left, right under the regular volume control but this worked out better, for me at least.

[JonStoltz]

I almost forgot.. Where are you located? In case I need parts /giggle

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee472/Negolien/range%20day/sacvaleyshootingcenter018.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/media/range%20day/sacvaleyshootingcenter018.jpg.html)

Wow thought that was mine for a sec u werent kidding. Hamburg, pa. what sub do u have again?

[negolien]

I run dual MTX JH45's

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee472/Negolien/th_april25013_zpsd8d07a57.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/media/april25013_zpsd8d07a57.jpg.html)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JYsjJy1uJCH/p_236JH4512X/MTX-JH4512-X2D.html

[S8track16]

It was mentioned earlier, but welding wire is considerably cheaper than sky high wire, knukonceptz, etc. Just be sure to find the wire with the most strands you can find since it's less restrictive on current flow. You could run 0 gauge welding cable from the front to the back, then get a couple feet of more expensive 4 gauge to run to the amps.

[Nas Escobar]

The best single din imo after searching Head units for a long time was the JVC arsenal I think they ran around $170. It comes with everything at the cheapest price. My Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS was the cheapest DD that came with everything but Nav . I'd probably ask s8track16 your audio questions he's the one I go to for audio questions and he's super helpful. I think the two of us are the ones that actually have systems and are currently active on the board atm. Oh and one other bit of advice and I' am going to sound like a douche so forgive me but....

Please for the love of god stop putting screws where they don't belong :rolleyes2: I think your the third gold package I have seen here besides myself and one other guy if that's what that is. That's a nice ride try and avoid zip tying things, putting screws into your center console if that's what you did there with the bass knob and other areas that they weren't originally meant to go . Don't put any huge ghetto side skirts on it lol...

I included a picture of my amp and wiring it's easy to make it neat and go under the carpeting and down the sides. Just remember to do the power and RCA's down different sides.

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee472/Negolien/th_april25014_zpscd373524.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Negolien/media/april25014_zpscd373524.jpg.html)

Why am I quoted if you were talking ton JonStoltz?

Last time I checked, I don't own a gold package Alero. :(

BTW I agree with the Arsenal. Kenwood has a similar "eXcelon" line, which BTW if you didn't know, JVC and Kenwood are owned by the same people.


It was mentioned earlier, but welding wire is considerably cheaper than sky high wire, knukonceptz, etc. Just be sure to find the wire with the most strands you can find since it's less restrictive on current flow. You could run 0 gauge welding cable from the front to the back, then get a couple feet of more expensive 4 gauge to run to the amps.


I should also add that the o.p. should be wary of different jacket sizes. Some places will have a thick jacket size and thin copper strands. This is normally true for cheap cable brands like Cadence. KnuKonceptz Kolosus is usually beefed up for its size. My KnuKonceptz wire is more in line with 2awg than 4awg.

Also, make sure that the wire is OFC (oxygen free copper) and not CCA (copper clad aluminum). CCA is more resistant to current than OFC, and you don't want resistance in the amp's power line.

I should also add, some welding wire may seem a size below, so they say it's better to get one size up than you need. So if you need 0, then get 2/0 (00) gauge wire.

Google how each cable should look and that will give you an idea.

[JonStoltz]

you guys are freakin wise men lol so much detail, love it

[JonStoltz]

negolian i was expecting stronger subs, great brand tho, they'll last forever. love mtx

[negolien]

Yup MTX is a great brand imo. I have had them for about 6 years and beat the hell out of them. I think I paid $150 for em. You should see the size of them Jackhammers they are ginormous.I paid about the same for the KAC-8105D. Probably going to go with a new pair of subs next year. We'll see. Kinda tired of all the audio headaches right now but I' am almost done. Everyone gets fatigued at the end of any kind of build :p

[S8track16]

Trust me, audio never ends lol.

[JonStoltz]

Its a hate love relationship.

[tw0123]

I am waiting to get my car back to rip out my system and start over... im in the process of fiberglassing the wheel wells for my subs, then have to rewire all my amps and upgrade the front door speakers... I have everything here to do it... with the exception of my car :p

[negolien]

Be sure to put up some picks when you get her back interested to see the wells.

[JonStoltz]

After my install i was getting a terrible rattling from my rear deck. This is going to seem very cheap and barbaric and im aware of it but im hoping to trade in for a Golf eventually, so for the time being instead of buying brand name sound dampener like dynamat, etc. i used an old towel. But my god, what a difference! i forgot to take pics of the finished deck but heres what i did...

This towel is thick and tightly wound so it was ideal for this bargain project. I cut strips and put them where i thought they needed to be especially focusing on the back that touches the rear window.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb26d8d73.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb26d8d73.jpg.html)

I then cut a long strip, about an inch wide and tucked it behind those thick set of cables running down the C Pillar, caulked where i fealt needed and put the covers back on. Those big factory insulation pads you see next to the speakers i just cut out a piece to throw on top since the top was kinda solid and thought that might be a rattler.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa6807f17.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa6807f17.jpg.html)

Wish i had pics of the results but it came out pretty clean looking and the bit sticking out the back actually looks a lot more flush than i thought it would and not obnoxiously sticking out

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps739d1dca.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps739d1dca.jpg.html)
http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseb3d85e3.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseb3d85e3.jpg.html)

No more noise coming from the deck anymore. :) Obviously theres still more stuff to insulate

[Nas Escobar]

What speakers did you wind up getting?

[S8track16]

Another very cheap option people have used is peel and seal used for roofing. It works not too bad for the price and since you may buy another car, it wouldn't put you back too much.

[JonStoltz]

Sound Ordinance 55 watts and MTX 40 watt 4x6s. Got them before i even opened this account.

[JonStoltz]

Another very cheap option people have used is peel and seal used for roofing. It works not too bad for the price and since you may buy another car, it wouldn't put you back too much.

Thanks ill look into it

[negolien]

Nice idea way to think outside the box.

[JonStoltz]

Nice idea way to think outside the box.

Thanks, did it to a Jetta before too. I'm sure the fabric will slowly unravel and make quite a mess underneath but for a quick, free and temporary fix can't complain.

[JonStoltz]

Nas i took your advice on the Jensen amp and Rockford high level to RCA converters. But since i installed the speaker amp, now i can hear my RPMs through my speakers. Help!

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb0c67921.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb0c67921.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbbb18f74.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbbb18f74.jpg.html)

[tw0123]

Did you run all your wires down the same side of the car? your rpms are transfer from a crossover somewhere of the rca's and the power wire... you have to keep them separated as much as possible...

[JonStoltz]

Yea i ran all the power down the other side of the car this morning. Fixed that thanks. Except when i was tuning my amp again today i fried my sub. Completely seized! Lol i guess the 40 hz excursion was too long. luckily though crutchfield is getting another one shipped out tomorrow

[negolien]

Yea i ran all the power down the other side of the car this morning. Fixed that thanks. Except when i was tuning my amp again today i fried my sub. Completely seized! Lol i guess the 40 hz excursion was too long. luckily though crutchfield is getting another one shipped out tomorrow

LOL wait wait wait...:eek: you fried a brand new amp that's powering 4x6's and what ? John lol should have gone with the soundstream reference. There's also some isolator's you can install to keep the buzz down too. Did separating the power and speaker wires help?

[JonStoltz]

Separating the wires helped and i didnt blow the speaker amp, i blew my brand new kicker sub. Haha i know man im kicking my own a$$. I was tuning the amp again after making a head unit adjustment after the jensen install l. I was playing a 40hz test tone at 3/4 volume to do so. I guess it was taking too long so the sub shut down and froze. Smelled an electrical burning. New one gets here next week

[negolien]

Meh sucky sucky I have a mic for the Pinoeer Head unit for tuning and I have been hesitant to use it just for that reason lol. Sucks to hear that though looked like a nice system. What sub are you getting? What speakers is the Jennings powering again?

[JonStoltz]

The sub was under warranty so same one. And i got sound ordinance 6x9 and MTX 4x6

[negolien]

Nice MTX 4x6's eh I had been thinking of getting MTX subs again as the Jackhammers were pretty good. Probably won't decide what to get till next year and will probably depend on if I can get some in an enclosure or if I can get a decent enclosure separately. Nice to hear the sub was under warranty. I hope you invested in some zip ties for that wiring :emotlol:

[JonStoltz]

Of course. And go with the 75 series ;)

[negolien]

If my taxes are super big maybe I'll think about the 95 series :eek: :p

[JonStoltz]

New sub is in and working fine. I noticed after installing the Dynamat lisense plate kit there was still a rattling from the trunk lid. Found out it was the part that sits on that lip right below the window. Then another part at the sunroof switch. Went to walmart picked up 2 packs of weatherstrip seals. (Home window and door applications) The one that was more aesthetically pleasing i put on the trunk and the one thats straight foam i shoved up between that interior liner. Works GREAT and will be applying to my rear deck eventually. Thought id share this idea. Thoughts on this?

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps35e7c519.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps35e7c519.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5f8b22ea.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5f8b22ea.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps47fed8be.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps47fed8be.jpg.html)

Hard to see but went the whole way across

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps12a46f84.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps12a46f84.jpg.html)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s361/Jonstoltz/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps117f530a.jpg (http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Jonstoltz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps117f530a.jpg.html)

[negolien]

How much clearance was before the foam on the trunk lid? Looks like there's an inch of it after installation.

As a side note.... I was going thru quick quack yesterday after work and the guy in front of my had the blower peel off the caulking on the top of his rear window. I was like oh crap lol sucks for him...

[JonStoltz]

No gap, just sat on that lip. It doesnt contribute to sealing the trunk from the elements so doesnt seem like a big deal to have that gap. Essentially all i did was throw a soft seal on top of a hard one makin it silent. Seemed kinda redundant to have it there in the first place. Probably to keep debris out of the cracks.

[Silver SLP]

I like that trunk lid idea! That's where all of my trunk rattle comes from as well. Did this fix all of the rattle? And are you positive no water can get in? I've looked at this before and was afraid to try anything because the factory seal seems to be tight against the trunk when closed.

[JonStoltz]

It worked great, for those parts at least. Every time i quiet one part, another part starts making it's presence known! And it doesn't appear to have any affect on the actual sealing of the trunk, completely separate. but its thunder storming here so when it clears up ill see if I'm right lol. Cant afford large amounts of sound damping mat to do big surface areas so I'm relying on small cheap alternatives like these. And i know im not alone