talking about the bov line to that one correct?

Yep. Run a line from the maniold into one side of the T, to the FPR from the other side of the T, and to the BOV from the bottom of the T.

ok so when i relocated the battery to the truck i had it grounded to the truck and im thinking since there was water around the ground wire from a leak it caused this... ever since i relocated it it occasionally takes longer to turn over and fire up.. today it just was a really low crank crank crank and then no sound or noise at all... thought battery died.. no! smoke coming from the trunk, pop trunk smoke fills the air smelll of rubber is horrible... the entire ground wire was fried and melted rubber stuck to the trunk.... would that be due to it getting wet and shorting??

also does the battery relocate cause stress to the battery and make it have to try harder to turn over? cause sometimes it fired right up others i didnt ... then today poof.. dissintigrated ground wire....

i put it back up front to drive home....
here is new wiring idea.... power wire stays the same then have the amp pos. into the bat. like before... then ground the bat and amp to the same place on metal trunk top instead of bottom... or amp ground to bat neg and then bat ground to the trunk top...

sorry for the long post had to rant a lil :)

has to be on trunk top metal since the bottom gets wet.. the carpet is wet from all the rain we have had and i have a leak...which probably caused this

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm how big are the lines your running for the battery? you should be grounding with large wire(s), i hope your not using anything around 10g or higher.

the amp wires are a 6 gauge kit,
the battery wires are monster cable battery relocate lines at 4 gauge....

i think its cause they got wet...
and as far as the slow start sometimes is that due to farther for the current to go?

well the ground lines should be short as possible but other then that your okay, sounds like you have a decent sized wire and most likely caused from a wet connection, although i dont see how it would melt a 4g wire without it sitting in a large puddle of water while you start the car

i dont know it leaks bad when it poors... the carpet was wet and it was under the carpet bolted to the metal... but there was NOTHING left of the wire except very very crisp rubber.....it was only 1.5 feet long maybe two...

and as for the amp wire grounded in the same spot that is ok?
and do you know if the slow turning over sometimes is due to how far away it is now? cause its up front now and fires right up..

i would say the weather striping on the trunk is bad if its leaking into the trunk lol, but for your starting problems it could have to do with corroded lines on your starter, mine are in bad shape i was thinking about replacing them because that should help out a lot

hmmm. it doesnt do it with the bat up front where it is now until tomorrow when i fix it....

but the grounds going to the same spot is ok?

Did you ground the engine to the chassis in the front? If not.. then the engine is drawing powering from backfeeding in grounds in the electrical system. Add some grounds btw the engine block to the chassis. It will solve your problem.

Your ground in the trunk is fine.. the one from battery negative to the trunk. (make sure your surface is clean. i.e. grind or sand the paint off in that spot where the ground is going to be on.

i see. so your saying go from the negative under the hood to the frame? i have the positive hooked to the pos fuse box screw.. where do i get the negative from? the old terminal?
that makes sense tho i dont know why i didnt think of that thanks aftermath

I'm saying add grounds from frame to engine block. To complete the circuit. Also is your positive cable from the starter into the fuse box screw as well?

I use 1 gauge (2 is also acceptable) for both positive and negative. You're putting way too much starting amperage through your cables, and I wouldn't be surprised if that wasn't a contributing factor in the melt-down, aside from moisture penetration or a poor ground source. Ensure your ground is to the frame, not the sheet-metal in the trunk.

If you're never planning on racing, you don't need to worry about an external shutoff switch which is required for the track tech inspection if you relocate. You should under all circumstances with a trunk mount, have a sealed battery box with vent tube, and this is how I ran my power lines:

run the positive (red) cable through a corregated loom cover under the trunk carpet, under the back seat, under the floor carpet, and out through the front firewall, and put a grommet around it at any point it passes through sheet-metal. Make sure it's not going to be pinched anywhere so your insulation doesn't get rubbed through and short out. Attach this to the starter where the primary battery positive used to go. keep the original battery wire attached as well, we're going to use it later. This way you still get continuity between the battery through the starter, and on to the original power supply wire to the fuse box.

Run the ground cable out the battery box in the trunk, drill a hole through the bottom of the trunk and again a rubber grommet at the sheet metal, and underneath to bolt on to the frame. I used the metal bumper mount bracket to the frame for a point to torque it down to for a solid ground.


Now back to the original battery wire. The terminal that used to connect the battery to the starter, and the primary power source to the fuse box, run a nut/bolt/lockwasher assembly through the two parts inside the insulator, and cover it with something with insulating properties, and secure it where it won't rub through on metal anywhere.

Haven't had any starting, charging or shorting problems.

It also has a clean install appearance if done correctly:

if your having moisture issues, you can try coating your connections in dielectric grease. it should keep them somewhat resistant to water. (beyond what BJ and Aftermath added)

it sounds like a simple fix if it's moisture (the correct thing to do is fix the trunk leak), but if the overheating is caused by overdraw on amperage or poor grounding, it will boil that grease (and any other coating) right off in nothing flat. In which case, it will still short for certain, and possibly burn the car to the ground after the carpet catches fire. Good idea in concept though, Chris. I applaud your efforts at trying another angle.

i definitely recommend all the other fixes first. but as a decent secondary measure, that grease works great.

thank you guys it was due to the wet poor ground in the trunk and the slow turn over was no ground from the frame to block like aftermath said...and my bat hot wire is exactly like yours blackjack, so i did it right yay lol

and yes i need to fix that trunk leak... i had a sunroof leak and door jam leak
and fixed them last one is the trunk leak lol

Sad Update
 

so the turbo is defected already!! a hole in the exhaust side....
money is non existant anymore for me i cannot do anymore myself and dont have the money to do it. i really want to have this turboed but unfortunatley it probably wont happen (go ahead have at me guys) but before i here shit im not giving up im looking at the way things are. alot has been spent, my job at the dealer is very slim to stay around, my help never did help me (he flaked and gave up!!!!) and i owe 3500 on the car and i cannot afford to spend more on this (as it will take alot more to finish)

im not giving up im altering plans, i tried my hardest but i just simply cant make it happen currently in life....

go ahead let me hear it.. (as i bow my head with shame)

i will have parts in the bazaar if i do stop(which is very likely)

can't give it too ya too hard... such is the way of the land now. hope someone gets a decent deal, if you decide to kill the project.

Why/how does the turbo have a hole in it?