They DID come with bushings (mine are red), but not with the re-grease-able ones like these, and no new brackets, but no biggie.

http://www.pfyc.com/GA4008.html?Category_Code=GA

The picture for the replacement bushings is misleading.
The bushings that come with the bar are not grease-able, and you need to use you existing mounting brackets (the bushings fit perfectly in them).

no reason you couldnt make them greaseable

Would it be worth the cash to replace all the endlinks as well? My rear endlinks have the bushings oozing out the sides.

I got red and black, I think they want me to play a drinking game

It's a test....you have to figure out which color is the left & right side bushing. :lol:

Yep....I plan on replacing mine both front and rear.

Yeah, but it might be difficult to get a grease gun up in there to grease them though.

does anybody know who produced the bars? this rear bar looks heavier duty than the speed built rear bar i have now. and the front bar is pretty heavy.

are these hollow or solid bars?

They are solid.
Measure them with some digital calipers - front should be 28.6mm and rear should be 22.2mm.

I hope not LOL... Should be pretty simple to understand though both sway bars are different sizes. I decided earlier on that I would upgrade to the bushings that you can grease.

mine came in today, pretty happy because I payed my balance monday so I was expecting them friday-ish.. ready to get them put in now!

pics please I need to know how to install them LOL

oh yeah made it to Canada


nice finish on them


That front bar is HEAVY and THICK


Real nice


Swag

BTW the border fees and duty was another $72

Wow... those pictures make me realize how pathetic the stock ones (atleast rear, I haven't seen a front stocker) are....

PLEASE READ!!!!!!!!

Everyone who bought new swaybars -
Please be careful! These bars will drastically alter the handling of the car. It's very neutral, but if you overcook a corner the back-end will come around on you. It's fine if you are prepared for it, but I don't want anyone wrecking driving like a hooligan in an uncontrolled setting.

With front and rear or just one or the other?

Ive never really pushed the car hard enough to see what would happen with the regular ones so I hope I don't reach this limitation on these!

Thanks for the heads up

I used both on my car and it was neutral. If you do just the front bar it understeers like a pig; just a rear bar and the ass-end gets pretty skittish.

They will really draw attention to shitty tires.

Good to know thank you. How does the handling differ with the thicker sway bars and lowered stance from lowering springs? the reason I ask is because I have eibach pro waiting to be installed.. Oh and when I get the money I would like to buy AGX adjustable springs.. Just wanted to throw in any and all possibilities.. thanks aaron

sounds like it's time to upgrade wheels/tires now! and brakes while I'm at it..

excellent tires, excellent brakes, great suspension, these should swing me around the autocross track nicely, my car already wheel lifts in the rear on hard corners, that crossbrace i made solidified the rear.

So does anyone have them on yet? I'm curious about the difference.

have mine installed, love em! installed with a breeze. car feels so much stiffer with much less body roll

The front was a breeze? Dont you hav to drop the cradle?

make a how-to!

I think I read, from someone in this thread, that these would not work with our sway bars is that true?


http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GA4008/ALSUSP...or+N-Body.html

I dony know for sure but the new ones are much thicker than stock, so unless you drill out the bushing somehow.. Its most likely a no

two things.

1. those bushings are supposed to work i believe since it says they are for next level or speedbuilt. not factory.

2. ya the cradle has to drop. but its just 3 bolts on each side. and then there are 3 bolts for a mount thats attached to the cradle. pull them too, drop it

heres how i did it basically. there wont be pictures since i already installed them

1. lift front of car off the ground, supper each side with jackstands in a secure spot and remove jack. obviously dont put the jack stands on the subframe.

2. remove tires (optional) just makes life easier.

3. put jack in the middle of the subframe. near the back of it. you'll see where.

4, there is a... 22mm? bolt that goes through the control arm, sub frame, and then into the car. pull them on each side

5. then after those there are 2 little.... 15mm? bolts, pull those.

6. slowly lower the jack so the subframe and the engine fall down

7. there is also 1 bolt and 2 nuts that hold down a tranny mount i believe. i pulled that so that it just moves a bit.

8. remove endlinks.

9. pull the swaybar brackets... 15mm? bolt i believe. easy to pull

10. remove swaybar

11. do reverse and tighten everything


any questions feel free to ask, ill try my best

installed mine today, made a write-up too!

http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showt...596#post617596

So you didn't have to disconnect the tie rod ends or the steering intermediate shaft? Every procedure I've read so far says to do those steps.

no you do not.

I just ordered Energy Suspension grease-able bushings using the following part numbers taken from an older PFYC sway bar group buy post I found for the same bars.

ENS-9.5158 Rear
ENS-9.5164 Front

I did not buy the PFYC bushings because of the following statement at the bottom of the page on their website:

"You can use your existing brackets, they're not included with these bushings."

This statement is very misleading and because the PFYC price is a little cheaper than anywhere else I found, it's unclear if the brackets are included or not.

Their saying "you can use these new bushings with the old brackets....but the brackets aren't included"....so if for some reason you needed new brackets, you have to buy them separate.

I still don't think that statement should be there at all and no other site that sells those same bushings has it, so I don't see any valid purpose for it other than causing customer confusion which is why I purchased my bushings from another site even though it cost me a bit more. But I didn't want to take any chances buying the PFYC bushings based on their product description.

PFYC also doesn't include the size information or Energy Suspension part numbers for reference, so there's not enough information provided for me to make an informed purchase decision to know exactly what I'm getting from them.

i disagree entirely about them not putting that statement...if you take the time to read it (paying attention to wording
), it makes perfect sense what it says...I would be mad however if they didn't put it and you were expecting it to have new brackets because it doesn't say anything only to find out that there are none

Doesn't really matter to me now since I already have grease-able bushings on order from another website with a more clear product description.

Big props to MMGT1 and his bro.
Installed the front and rear, did an amazing job, took great care of the car they were working on and a more than reasonable price.