nah i ment the airline marc........ i just wasnt clear enuff i guess

ur gonna need a massive battery to power that huge horn dude, Id custom made a 200 amp alternator for it too, wouldnt wanna risk effin up or fryin anything.

ur dumb. dont listen to him. Most relays should be 40a. Switch wont have to be 40a since all that does is switch the valve open(which has ~18ga wire)

dude you have no clue at all what your talkin about

still gonna wanna run its own battery tho, expecially if u keep honkin the horn cuz youll be drainin the battery more than the alt can charge it back up...so i aint dumb home boy

uh NO. again, if you dont know what you're talking about, dont.

the battery dont power the horn HOMEBOY.

you need power to run the compressor.....

so you is dumb

The horns arent what drain the battery, all they are is a funnel for the air pressure coming outta the tank. Its the compressor that drains the battery. Its a juice puller, even if you have a separate battery your going to have to recharge it meaning you need a battery isolator and its going to have to run off the same alt anyways. I have it on a yellow top w/ stock alt on my CL and never have any problems if the car is running. Obviously you wanna get a big enough tank so the compressor isnt going 24/7. I have a 3 gallon and a vlair 30% duty compressor and i can play with the horn for hours without the car battery dieing.

Ken, another reason your battery might be dieing is becasue its friggid cold to. Batteries HATE cold weather. Ive been having that problem. Sometimes its my neg terminal not connecting right, and sometimes I gotta bust out the jumpbox.

not 100% right, if its pulling 30a through the line your gonna need a 30amp switch. I ran a 20a at first and it melted the switch. Just FYI from past experience.

when the temperture is in the single digits a battery's cranking power is reduced by 50% compared to summer time

Really 50%! I didn't know it was that much

I used all 18 gauge wire to hook it up. The switch is on it's own circut. It's a 20 amp switch and I have a 20 amp fuse.

I connected everything the the ground on the fuse box. I know I know stupid. My mech told me that was the ground today :banghead:

I'll get it working :p

if you're talking a switch to cut the power to the compressor then yes. im talkin the switch for the valve.

and compressors dont pull THAT much power. especially just one. I mean, an audio amplifier pulls a ton more. This isnt like a juice setup.

Ill garuntee the reason Ken's car was dead was because it was miswired. i mean, Ken already said that he(or the mech) changed some stuff and it starts fine. a little harder, but to be expected after completely killing it.

i was shocked as well when i was told that

There are your mistakes.

#1 18awg is fine for the normal connections.

#2 use at least 10awg for your power from the compressor. That line has to be burnin up if your using 18awg. Its gonna melt and ground itself if you dont change it!!

Compressors use about 28amps so do yourself a favor and swap it all to 30a. Its all gonna melt away if you leave it, trust me.

And joel, ALso remind you an amp will pull more power if the sub is being hit hard constantly so the amp is needing that much juice to use it. Hense your lights goin dim. The compressor does close to the same but its a constant draw, enough so you wont notice untill its to late.

Do what i told ya ken and you'll be alright, btw make sure the ground wire is the same awg as the power for the compressor. Just drill into random metal and put a screw in it. Ground it to the car itself, not the fuse box.

lol, if you say so marc. 1 compressor will not be a problem for a stock charging system. 2 compressors, maybe, but considering compressors generally only run for ~7 minutes till the tank fills back up, still easily handled by the stock charging system.

youll notice ive marked 10gauge where you need a heavier gauge on that diagram ken, so make sure youve got that covered.

no problem if the car is on, but if you leave it off and expect it to keep going ya got another thing coming. Itll kill the battery quick so make sure your car is always on when its running.

ive ran mine all the way from 0 to 190psi with 2 compressors and started with no problem too. granted, if ya did that a couple times, itd kill it dead im sure

#1.) OK you don't need a 20amp or 30amp switch. MARC.. I'M SORRY! your wrong! LOL. The switch is only to open the valve for the horn to sound. which Valves only use less than 5amps to open. (joel & brent are right!) The switch that controls the pressure switch power wire to the compressor relay only takes less an 1amp to open also. (if ken followed joel's diagram in above post).

#2.) compressor and relay main power wire is 18gauge and you grounded everything back up where the fuse box is.. then its going to melt. Grounds, you want them to be short as possible. and scrap off the paint where u ground it at for better connection. Following the diagram joel has provided of where 10ga wiring needs to be. (he did take his time making it yesterday, LOL)

otherwise 18ga is fine for the rest of the wiring.. cept where the battery to the compressor relay wire. that needs to be 10ga like stated.

Car is 100% fine now.

Loose battery connection. The battery connection I had was very hard tohook up right, it's been swapped, car runs great

#1 ok we were talking to diff switches then, i meant the switch to shut off the compressor. Since mine is directly to the battery. I have 2 switches. an on/off for the compressor and a second is a momentary for the valve itself to sound the horn.