lolol...


There's is nothing better than getting a big badass explanation from a guru...

Thank you whitev6!

and it looks like ur store will be getting some good "bidness" from me :lol:

so now the list is...

- street/strip cam from wot tech.
- LS6 springs
- LS1 valve seats
- LS1 valve stem seals
- new set of stock retainers and keepers
- longer pushrods (any recommended length whitev6?)
- kit with gaskets and shit for the swap lol (any suggestions?)

Doods, I fcking love u guys. I keep forgeting that I'm not the only one who has the ridiculous need to modify a car that never gets modified. :rolleyes2:

The locks and keepers are used as far as stockers go on my store. They don't wear out so there is no reason to buy more. Pushrods, I measure the cam lobes every time to be sure on the lengths needed. Probably .020" longer.

The complete head install kit
http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/3400-he.../prod_114.html

and the side cover set
http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/complet.../prod_258.html

Those 2 will give you everything you need for a cam install.

Also remember that you will need to do some computer tuning for optimum performance.

^very true^

That's one thing I didn't get right with MMS stage 2 cam, still have stock length pushrods. not sure how much power it's robbing me but the car has never come close to that grand am that ran a 13.99999 with basically the same mods.

Will new heads bolts be necessary? Or will the heads not have to be removed for the install? I only ask because you didn't bring them up.

If your having to ask these questions than I don't really think you are going to be able that far

Yes, you will need new head bolts as well. It is easier to pull the heads to replace the springs, seats, and seals.

I wanna be sure dammit! :lol:

.and what makes you think that I'm doing this all by myself.

I got an experienced mechanic by my side. (my chrissy poo)

Also, i noticed that the kit does not come with a timing chain. Milzy's complete cam intall kit includes one. However, it's short some of the seals. Question is, are all the seals in the wot head gasket necessary for the cam swap? Because if not, I could save a bit and use the milzy kit. So, instead of purchasing the wot kit and not using some of the gaskets and purchasing a seperate timing chain, I could just purchase the milzy kit. Thoughts?

kk...

$366 bucks for the MMS cam and head install kit. $230 for my head and cam install kit. My kit includes metal lower intake gaskets. I don't recommend plastic lower intake gaskets.

The MMS kit includes just a chain, no brand given. I sell the GM 1994-1999 chain kit with both gears for $145. $14 for the chain damper/guide. That's $390 vs $366 and you get a more complete kit with all of the best parts available across the board. All of the stock 00+ GM chains and all 94-present aftermarket chains stretch before 50k miles when using LS6 springs.

Go wit WOT they are real reliable you will not have any regrets buying from WOT and ya metal gaskets are the best the plastic ones will not last long also i would buy something that has a name brand than from some company that u never heard of. I am getting the 3500 competition LIM and UIM from them because they do quality work and have great customer service.

Never heard that before.. good to know.

The main reason I go with Ben is for the customer service. The know-how and awesome parts are the icing on the cake :D

Hopefully with the use of an aftermarket cam :eek: since I'm running LS6 springs on a stock cam. I was going to go with these springs on my build, but the Alero building gods strongly suggested the Comp springs. That will get switched at the rebuild.

What's better for a mild build? the 94-99 chain or the TCE double roller/crank kit?

We're waiting on results of 1 person who had his pre-99 GM timing set cryo-treated - we'll see how it held up un his semi-large cam.
Anything with XFI lobes and stiff valve springs should use the TCE duble roller for durabilty.

Omg this thread is becoming soo good.

Do you guys know how many things I've learned from this thread?

like... a lot... :lol:

Right, with a cam on those LS6 springs. Its all part of the load against the chain that causes it to stretch. Now, I am not talking about it breaking, or even cause problems. It will eventually make a lot of noise, which is bad but thats past 50k miles. Also 50k is not every instance, some are less, some more. Most we will never actually know because it just moves the powerband higher (killing some low end torque, which is how you notice mostly).

Cryotreating should help, as it does on just about everything involved wear. Especially for cylinder walls and brake rotors:) I expect Jon's setup to work for a long time with the 94-99 crytreated chain.

I do my best to help everyone, customers and enthusiasts alike. Wish I had time to work on 60v6 but I am hoping this next year working with a partner will allow me to get some articles/instructions written.

How much would a Cryo job cost? and if it works, which you are 100% correct Ben, Cryotreating helps EVERYTHING although I never heard of it used on a TC.

its cheaper in bulk per item, but I don't have a cost. I will have to see what is local to me after I move.