i still have alot of work to do i hurt my thumb so it is in dis repair. i need to wire the pumps and switches and the struts . most of the ploming of the air lines are done
but the monotor between the seats is realey nice

well i got all the valves wired up. i have all but the tank sensors installed. i have the air line ran. i need to wire up the pumps. install the tank sensor. drill wholes and install the struts.

do i need to run a switch for the digital air mangment or can i leave it on all the time? and if i do will it kill my batteries?

well i got the pumps wired up and relays installed now i have to do some wire managment. and run a switched power. the olny problem is the relays wont turn on the pumps. but the pumps will turn on manuley when i by pass the relays. i do have some leaks

u must be using a pressure switch from Rick?? For some reason Mine and Ritchies too, didnt work. I just wired a manual switch.

its richie! ..lol.. my new pressure switch works good. Got it from rick. its by Viair. .. mines on the pressure switch and manual switch.. got both. Was just running manual switch before, but turn compressors on and off alot gets old. Especially for daily drive like mine.

i am useing the digital air managament and it uses relays. and that is not turning on the pumps. and i do have at least 1 leak once i get the pumps working good i will be testing for leaks.

well i contacted easy street they are sending me a new controler sence mine has no voltage to turn on the pumps. i did get my tank presurised and i have a 1 psi leak every 3 hours should i wory or work on fixing this?

nah, 1psi over that time is nuttin. at 120psi, my tank only dropped about 8psi over 24hours. Its hard to get a leak free system with a setup like you have. as long as you can drive for an hour and not have to air up a bag over and over, your all good.

i dont have the bags in yet. i want to get the rest of the system up and running so i am not stuck with my car on the side of the road or in the driveway.

i love makeing it go pppppppppuuuuuuussssssssssssss when i hit the up sence i dont have the bags installed.

i was reading around not to go side to side it puts alot of stress on the body and i herd some one got a cracked rear glass. is this true.

it can. ive seen it on one alero and a coule grand ams

i did side to side all the time with air and juice and never had a problem. i'm not sure what the guy that cracked his back window f***ed up to have that happen, but i wouldnt worry about it, unless you have a bodykit molded on.

the alero on cardomain had fast bags and was hoppin it

same as the grand am i know, it was fast bags.

U just cant be stupid with it. Its common sence. Were dealing with a unibody car (a CHINCY one at that) Its not built to take that kind of stress, let alone bouncin like a '64. Sure, u can side to side but keep it within reason. I rarley keep over 115 or so psi in my tank, cause anymore than that and the front or rear is up in a split second. So the car goes from layd out to all way up in a single tap. And I mean it slams up.
Sure, if your hoppin around and bendin corners on 3 your askin for trouble. Just remember its an alero, not a '64 Impala.

i dont want to hop it i was just trying to get some facts. actuley i will have 170 on my tank that is what the digital setup is set for and you cant change it.

Sux to be you. with 1/2" fill like you have...at 170.....he he he. just wait.

man, with the $$ they rape you with that controller, ya think youd be able to adjust it....

yea.. they should made that control adjustable pressure switch. oh well. .i hope ur new one works. Dont forget to fix all ur leaks. Spray soap and water on all the fitting connections.

We told you not to get the digi controller. but you wanted one.

cracked back window...lol thats funny. the only way that will happen is you you dogleg ALOT.And still thats a little far fetched. I have had mine bagged since 99 and never had any problem with it messin stuff up. And I run 240psi soon to be nitrogen... so dont listen to that crap. PLus side to side does not put the car in a bind.

hey that digital contriller is sweet it has volts tank presure load leveling leak ditecton. and i can pre set my presure levels so when i hit auto it will bring me up to cruse levels

damn.. that lazy.. i can do that too with my manual switch box front usualy 2 hits and set , rear 2 hits also. I can monitor mine for leaks with my pressure gauges.

well i got the right side on. and it is low. at full down do your tire rest on the plastic front wheel whell liner? i did put my down valves on backwards so it will not stay up. but this is a easy fix.

i dont have a camera at the moment it is in china till the end of the week

lol..........I give up

not bad this is prety sweet i got my valves installed right and it is sweet fast but not hopping off the ground fast. but my front is leaning out a bit and the back looks like it is the front of a truck but that was pita to get in and i need to align the slot of the strut.

i think the hardest thing is finding and fixing the leaks and makeing sure you install the valves right so you dont have to do it twice.

uhh.. mine hopes when my tank is at 150psi.. 1/4 - 3/8 off the ground.

uhh.. the rear, you want 2 degrees of negative camber. so tuck em in the wheelwell. Front are fine. They look like they have positive camber, but after 1 weeks worth of driving and stuff.. its just looks like it. But your front camber will be at 0 degrees at 50-60 psi of inflation.

i droped it off to get aligned and they were like i dont know if we can align this and i told them you need to let the air out if you are jacking up the car off the ground. and they said they jack it up by the lower control arms so they keep the wait on the car. so i was like ok. i dont think they aligned a car on bags. also they told me i might have to fix the one wheel that was way out of alignment befor they could fix it.

they have to align it whit ti a ride height or it will not work. dont align it with no psi in the bags....

umm.. the only thing they can only adjust is the TOE setting. cept for the rear has a camber slot.

yea.. you don't air out the car when getting aligned, you get it aligned at your ride height that you ride on.

PLUS.. WHY IN THE HELL (excuse me) .. are you getting the alignment so quick.. you need to drive on them for at least 100 miles for them to break in. Or else you'll be redoing the alignment again.

thanks for the advice actuley i was told that my ho is screwed. i was sent to a different one and they have a new one where they dont have to jack up the car. it is makeing a thumping noise from the rear now. it is toed in and cant be ajusted and the drivers side front strut is 1.8degred tilted but the right is right on. he said he cant do anything for my car and sent me away.

i hand titened the rear strut main bolt with 2 renches. on on the nut and on in the shaft.

well today i was working on getting rid of the air leaks i olny have 7 left to fix and down from 12 but one of my valves is leaking the actual valve it self

is it the fill or dump? if its the dump, you prolly messed it up, when you installed them wrong.

actuley it was the olny valve in installed right of the dump valves. all the other ones work great. i also think i might replace my bering plates. i have some places where you can see the metal bareings and there is no rubber.

here is the ride

doesnt look all that bad, i love how the back wheels tuck, and the rims set it off very good, now lets see some in action pics

oh btw, if you drive with your car that low id suggest buying a warehouse and filling it with new axles, cause your CV joints will go like crazy

cant drive that low the fronts rub the fenders and fender llineings. i am likeing 40/60 psi ride front rear

dude that looks really nice, makes me wanna get air even more

im getting air on my probe, but i think the hood makes his car with the air ride

found out that 35 up front and i rub when i turn. i like the ride fron 40-45 front and 60-65 rear. can you use rhe camber kit to fix the toe in the rear?

lol...........this is why I said, "i give up" earlier..... But Ill try again...

A camber kit fixes CAMBER. not toe. toe is not adjustable in the rear, and there is really no reason it should be messed up. If it showed a bad reading on the alignment rack......either they screwed up, or you have some major problems. Either you twisted something hittin switchez, or during your install....or maybe you bought the car used, and it had been smacked good. I dunno.

Damn bro.. you ride backwards of me. I ride with 50-55 psi in the front, and 30-35 in the rear. I got like 1/4" clearance for the rear fenderwell in the rear.. when its at 30-35psi. I love it slammed. Plus i'm kitted so my kits like 1 1/2" off the ground.

Sometime i ride the front with 25psi, but i can't turn only drive straight. Then when i turn i raise it back up to 50-55psi. (gotta clear them DUBS) .. ur 18's only require 40-45psi to clear.

Car looks good though. Only wish ya brought it to someone who knew what they were aligning.