I believe it says all the parts are genuine GM, including the chain. We use GM lower intake gaskets, and never use Felpro's. I've re-done about 6 or so felpro'd intake gasket jobs here in the last 6 months. I've never used anything but GM and never had a single one come back.




by the way, Tim's car that went 13.9 had stock length pushrods.

Did you originally install those Felpro gaskets? We have been through this discussion on 60V6 with a GM tech that says the same thing. We both concluded that installation error will kill any lower intake gasket for these motors and since he wasn't the one to do the work, he could not verify it was not from over tightening them. Also, were the bolts coated with loctite? That is a known issue, for them to back out from vibration and cause leaks. This may have been the cause for some of the plastic gasket failures as well.

So the important part is correct installation with the loctite on the bolts.

What does lifter preload have to do with 1/4 mile times?

Let me understand this, you got six 3400 V6 cars in and all had a failed Felpro metal LIM gasket ? Were they boosted cars? Are the new GM LIM gaskets you install an upgrade from the original OEM gaskets?

When I went through the LIM install a few years ago, the Felpro metal LIM replacement kit impressed me as a superior product to the GM version. I had the two kits there side by side, and after comparing them out of the box, I returned the GMs. The Felpros were a more complete kit, as well.

I can't remember if I put loctite on the bolts... the parts man at the dealership recommended replacing the bolts, too. I also didn't torque the bolts correctly. It's hard to say for sure if any internal seepage is occuring, but I actually expect it since I've run over 9 lbs boost for a couple years now. I've certainly not had anything like the catastrophic failure of the original LIM gasket, though.

The newer replacement bolts have the thread locker applied already. It is important to use the correct torque, even for boost. I wouldn't expect 9psi to be a problem for the intake gaskets.

GM has a 2nd revision, that puts metal tabs around the bolt hole near the coolant passage. This is to help prevent over torquing these bolts. Felpro has this revision as well for their plastic gaskets, but they still revised them again after that to give us the metal version.

Those GM gaskets suck.

I did have a set of Fel-Pro got bad on the LIM, however the shop that did the job put RTV around all the water jackets except the port where the leak occured.

If this problem where to happen and I had another car to get back and forth to work, I would have no problem doing this myself. After fixing a leaking injector I can see just how easy doing a LIMG is. You just have to move so much shit to get to it. The only 2 things that worry me is the pushrods and using RTV.

someone mentioned not being able to run the time that tim did, and stated they though their problem was their pushrods being too short.

i've never installed fel-pro gaskets on a 3400.

for the bolts, i just use the new bolts that GM supplies with the intake gasket kit.

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So what is his problem then, IYO

If pushrods are too short you will not get proper lift/flow. Hydraulic lifters can only do so much, possibly not enough for this situation (plus they might not be working properly).

I understand that........but......

I want to here Milzy's answer on why Jackal hasn't gone as fast.....

what are his mods, and do you have a copy of the time slip?

I have your stage 2 cam and heads, your chromoly pushrods, 28lb/hr injectors, TOG headers, 2.5" cat back exhaust, ported manifolds, 62mm billet throttle body, under drive crank pulley, phenolic manifold spacer, cold air intake. car made 187whp and 187lb/ft and one time ran a 14.9 quarter mile at 93mph. all other passes have been 15+ seconds.

throttle body is holding you back a little bit, even when i designed the stage 2 cam way back in winter 2004, I designed it for a 65mm tb, with the 65 flowing around 10% more than the 62. When we dyno cars over at Dynotune Motorsports in Columbus, the stage 2 cars almost always make the same numbers. a 65mm tb'd stage 2 package car will make 195-200+ whp with stock exhaust manifolds. headers usually add around 10-15whp or so, depending what they are. 187 with headers sounds low. Have you done a compression test? what plugs are you running? gap? what pcm?

as for the slip, I was looking for numbers like 1/8ET and mph, 60ft time, etc.

not sure where you're located, but if you wanted to bring your car into the shop, I'm sure we could find the problem and have your car running a whole lot better.

dayton is a long way from dc, but could possibly make a weekend trip in the spring. i am fairly certain a compression test was done after the motor was assembled in september 2006 and the results were normal. plugs are ac delco iridium 1 range colder than stock, gapped at .045. i have been tuning the pcm with dhp equipment. sprucegagt helped me out initially and i have had 2 experienced tuners tweak it over the years. i have had no trouble at all with the motor, it runs strong i just never got the results i wanted.

and i misspoke earlier, it did run a 14.9 twice. the middle slip has troubled me since it was handed to me after the run. i know i did not let off the throttle early, and the fact that it never went that fast again kinda backs that up.

I don't get it, it looks like the middle slip should have been the fastest quarter mile, not the slowest. Maybe the other two screwed up?

yeah, that middle slip looks out of place. That's a very good 60 ft for a n-body car, and honestly, i think you'd need atleast drag radials to do that well of a 60ft. If I had to guess, I'd say it looks like someone else's run. I could be wrong, but it's so much better of a launch, that you should have went around 14.0-14.25 on that one.

I know DC is a long way from here, but I know we'd figure the problem out if you wanted to bring it in. Otherwise, if you wanted to I could have you do some tests, and based off that info and hopefully you could have access to a wide-band, I could figure out the problem and send you a pcm or something if that's the issue.

This.

Are you sure you timing is dead on. It could be off a tooth and run fine but be a big damper on your overall power.

Though it is less likely you be blowing out the spark, with the intake manis and colder air the air is much denser. What are you gapped to? Just two things to look for.

read above skimmer....

:(

Well shoot what about blowing out spark than

the car only has random misfires at idle due to the cam. as soon the throttle opens it smooths out. why should i think the spark is blowing out if the car is not missing?

Sorry for askng the obvious jackal, but have you scanned your car?
I recall it sounded pretty healthy at ASS a few years back, but any KR?