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mine don't dim at all, they used to, but i bumped up my "big 3" (grounding to battery, alt and new battery) and i'm good now.
i HAVE a 1 farad cap thats sitting on my workbench. :lol: i don't have any room for it.... so i just left it out. doesn't seem to do much but take up room i guess the polarity issue came from krystal's obscure wiring identification. they had (on the 4 wire set) a black, red, white, blue. and not even connected, i think they were in that order... which doesn't make sense. then the 2 channel set was black and red. so i somehow botched wiring those together. |
What size did you go for in battery to amp wiring? I'm using a number 4 to the distribution block then from there I bump down to number 8..the ground is striaght 8 from amp to ground. I don't have many dim light issues but I wanted to have something in there just in case, and a little clip protection.
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i have 2ga from alt to battery, 8 ga from battery to ground (gotta add one or two more when i get another pair of hands to help) and 2x8ga running from the battery back to each amp.
I already had the wire laying around, and didn't want to have to go buy 2 or 4ga and a distro block. so i just ran a whole new 8. |
I gottcha, then I may use some grounding strap I got here and take it from the batt to the frame, and I guess I could get some 2ga for the run from the alt to the batt. I got some extra 8ga left that I was going to use for the Cap and I guess I could double up the run from the distribution block to the amp, and the same for the ground. IDK I think that my last amp may have went up due to underpowering, but when I took it apart there were no parts showing signs of damage and no fuses blew, so I want to make sure that I have my bases covered with this one...although they are cheap enough to get it replaced as long as they are in stock.
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i only beefed up the alt wire because i got a highout put alt, and its got like a 18ga wire for the stock one. its pathetic.
i gained like a full half a volt, and lord only knows how many amps... |
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Here's what I came up with for solving my heat issues in the trunk. I call it a heat disapation box. It basically disapates the heat from the heat sinks and in theory should increase the effiecency of the amp even during the hottest of days.
Of course this is my proto-type so it is rough around the edges, but it works really well just from bench testing. I can turn it on and run my hands under it and feel the cool air through out the box. Now hopefully science will work in my favor and really cause the heated air from the heat sink to rise and if so my box will push it out and bring in the cool air. This is what I do on slow days at work. LOL Attachment 4428 Attachment 4429 |
thats your workbench at work!? eff! i'm jealous!
everything i've done, i've done with an old ass couple of saws my dad has, and a radioshack soldering iron. :emotlol: |
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-12-Volt-...QQcmdZViewItem :haha: |
yeah.... but nothing beats doing it yourself.
plus, it keeps lonnie off the streetz. :lol: |
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You would probably like my job then... |
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Well, i went through and fixed my channels. (had them backwards AND reversed. de-dede)
and as i was doing that, i decided i should take my door off and figure out why my driver's side woofer sounds muddy... the reason.... there is a 2" tear in the butyl rubber!!!!!! :mad2: :mad2: i just emailed the company to see if its covered under warranty. that f'n blows. i just got these, what, 3 months ago?? |
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the rubber itself split right in the middle. it REALLY sucks. i hope they don't want me to send everything back, and its just the speaker itself. (can't see why they'd do the first, but i've seen companies do stupid things)
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Yeah that would suck, I wonder how that could have happen. Have you called them yet to see if they would be willing to send a replacement for the return of the bad one?
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well.. i just heard back and i have to send the whole kit back, since they no longer carry the picasso series. but they are replacing the whole kit with the newer TRC.6N. :yahoo: just gotta get the old speakers out now.
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Thats usually caused when your speaker is touching the door panel... This problem is common... With poor installs :p
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damn work computers! double post
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^ i thought about that. but it should have plenty of clearance. hmm... maybe i underestimated how far out it'll "pop" but that'll definitely be fixed on the second install. (oh, and SHOOSH! we're not all pro installers. :glare: )
and to get them out isn't too bad. just unsolder the tabs and disconnect the xovers. the speaker adapter plates can stay in place, just the speaker needs to come out. no biggie. and in between, maybe i'll put 2 leds behind each speaker grille, so it glows. :D |
whelp... finally got them back. :yahoo: (not the same ones, i got a whole new set.)
i looked at it, and i don't have enough room to mount leds (w/o the speaker shaking them like crazy and making the light "wiggle" ) and i did look at the mounting holes and i was WAY off on the driver's side. so i drilled new ones. :yahoo: i'm excited to have good sound back again. (or sound period) |
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:glare: pfft. gremlins already took a caliper. i gotta redo them in a week or so. my pads are deteriorating, and my rotors are pretty warped/pitted... and i veer right pretty good when braking. So i have a friend at work helping me redo pretty much the whole brake system.
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Yeah I need new rear pads..I peeked when I was getting my new tires on. Damn gremlins, and the best part is one of my rims is bent on the inside.....I'm about to put some skies on my car, cause I'm sick of dealing with tires and rims. LOL well when you do the speakers throw up some pics!
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having issues w/ those damn speakers... see the quick help thread.... :mad2:
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