UPS love'n
 

Gotta love delivery day. :yahoo::yahoo:

got me new project.... get'n those beasts in my doors.


anyone got a good idea for how to get a 1" tweeter into our triangle pods?? :p (i'm thinking take the mesh out and possibly dremel the hole a little bigger if need be)


specs



FEATURES

• Brushed Stainless Steel Finish Stamped Steel Baskets
• Woven Glass Fiber/Spruce Pulp Laminate Cones
• Inverted Polypropylene Dust Caps
• NBR Rubber Surrounds
• Black Progressive Conex Spiders
• 1” Copper Voice Coil on Aluminum Former with Reinforced Neck Joint
• Nickel Plated Binding Posts
• Rubber Motor Cover with Logos
• Vented Pole Pieces
• 4 Ohm Impedance
• 1” Teflon/Silk Dome with Resin Coating Tweeters
• Neodymium Tweeters Magnets
• Ferrofluid Cooling
• Multi-Function Mounting Set
• Passive Crossover with 12dB Low-Pass and Presence Switch for Midbass, 18dB
• High-Pass with 3-Way Sensitivity Switch for Tweeter, Tweeter Protection Circuit
• Grills and Mounting Hardware Included

Wiring Kits

I put 1" tweets in just cut off the clips for the factoy tweets and used a little hot glue. and put them behind the factory mesh. I might cut the hole bigger tho and maybe do a little glassin to them in the future

Get rid of that ugly mesh... Besides the aiming of the tweeter is horrible!

http://caraudiocentral.net/ryan/imag...inbow-sail.jpg

Thats before I finalized it. Grind them open, find the tweeter cup that works the best. Be careful when grinding, take out the least amount of material possible.

Get them aimed correctly. Epoxy in place.

Then take bondo and fill the crack, put a nice fillet in. Sand smooth. Paint flat black or Dollar General Grey Primer (almost exact color match).

Mine are aimed almost right at each other and on a slight downward angle. I get excellent off-axis response and its awesome. Most look at it and dont understand...

its kinda hard to see, but the tweets have like a 1/4" lip around the edge of them (whats holding them in place in the box) then taper down.

so if i mounted them like yours, i'd be a big silver edge on the outside of the "sail" which, i think would look a little goofy given that its a black pod....


unless i grind that edge off, which i'd really like to NOT do.


maybe grind the inside of the "sail" so it fits w/ that edge?

Just a size comparison... i think some fabrication is in my future...


good thing i saved that link to the fiberglassing forum. :p

Paint the outer edge to match the middle mesh of the tweeter or the pod. I would set it on the pod and mark around it to get what you need to dremel out. I don't see it being to much of a problem cherry you just have to come up with a way to to secure it in there. I would cut it out slightly smaller then the tweeter and press it firmly in there. I think that would be plenty to keep it in there, and I seriously doubt that we have that much going on around that pod to cause it to fall out. You have sparked my interest thought in seeing how this turns out. What size are the speakers 5.25 or 6.5's?

How much was that speaker system? If you don't mind me asking.

...Almost forgot....Do you have a seperate amp for the front speakers and what are your ideas of mounting..or better yet where to mount it. I was think of in the rear, but the thought of running all that wire made me contiplate the issue a little more.

Thats no bigger than the CAL 25 Tweeter in my pictures ;)

Dremel it out and epoxy in place.

Is there any other tweeters mounts or is that the only one? It has a flange around the outside which will greatly limit your install possibilities and quite honestly make it look like dung.

i paid $137 for the whole thing shipped. I have a 400W 4 channel amp i'm gonna use. one channel for each door, and the other two will be my rears... just cuz. I also just got some adapters from ebay, for the 4x6-6.5" adaption. (so, yes, they are 6.5"s) depth might be an issue, so i might have to make a small wood standoff so the magnet doesn't hit the window.... but it shouldn't be too much of a hassel...

Good to know its not bigger. and that isn't the mount, thats just the casing around it. the mount is still in the box, and appears to fit up around the base, to that outer lip. its defintely poor design, but i don't think these are meant for the install i'm using them for. :lol:

Hmm, interesting. Im guessing thats still the flush mount. Simply due to the fact you cant easily get to the solder connection.

Just take a look at my picture I posted. Dremel tool with sanding drum and lots of patience.

I'm really not feeling the glueing thing everbody seems to do. What if you want to do something else or change the tweet or have to replace it. Epoxy and glue just seems to permanent to me..at least enough to cause a major problem if you have to take one out for something. That lip could be a good thing..so you don't have to get it exactly clean if you don't want. Cant wait to see more pics and solutions to some of the issues that may arise.

Epoxy if done right will provide good hold but it will chip off if need be.

Where are the updates Cherry? Have you started? Is it done? Did you lose a nut, arm leg, lol something?

haven't started. school/work are getting in the way, not to mention its really cold. (anything under 40 and my hands will go numb w/in minutes) so this project will be about a month away.... :( sorry.

i'll DEFINITELY post results though. (and i just got my adapters in, so i can mount the 6.5s in the 4x6 hole)

I understand just checking and when you get a chance I would love to see what those adaptors look like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x6-to-6-5-6-Spe...31 0033668466

exact ones i got.



i was expecting plastic.. but they are like pseudo plastic stuff. (they say pvc) it looks like its really easy to work with, but i will have to take a dremel to it. the baskets on these beasts are a little bigger on the inside then the adapter has room for.

but they look like they will stand out far enough so i won't have magnet vs window issues.

the biggest part of the project, is figuring out how/where to mount my amps. i'm not sure if i want to mount them backwards on an angle out from the sub box i have (so they are hidden, and the trunk looks just small and empty) or if i want to make a small rack above my subs to hold them...

i'm pretty sure i have everything i need to finish the job at this point, except for wood, but that'll be this weekend. then its just a matter of time. maybe my dad will help and i'll have it done on this weekend....

What about what Ryan did? He has a wall that fills the opening of the trunk and has his amps mounted to it. From the back I'm pretty sure it looks like nothing is back there, and thats what I'm looking to do. All and all I'll have 3amps and 1cross over squeezed back there. The problem is I still use my trunk and I know I'll need that spare in the future so I don't want to have to go throught the bull crap of taking out some elaborate box.

i would... but i'm just not a fan of having an amp wall... i'll have to get some cheap mdf, and take a look... see which i like better.

Got you! I like the idea of an amp wall cause it keeps the amps concealed when the trunk is up. Have you thought about getting any of those kick panels?

not really. passanger side i wouldn't mind, but driver's side, where the kick panel would be, is right where my foot commonly rests. i think my leg would consistantly be killing volume/quality and it'd get coated in salt/mud from my shoes. i'd rather keep them concealed inside the door.

could even make a little amp rack in the trunk but have the wires hidden (and we both know your good at that!) so it will look a little sharper, just a thought

i do have a little space between my box and the magnets for the 6x9s... so its a possibility.

but what i'm really thinking, is to put two small hinges on the sides of my box, and a piece of wood on each, angling back to the back of the trunk, then mount the amps on the outside of those pieces... so when you look in, you'd just see gray carpet, but if i need to work on any wiring, or check something, i can hinge back back so they are flush with the back of the box....

only problem with that would be how would i get them to stay in the fixed "out" location... hmm...



is it me, or do i take a relatively easy project and make it WAY more complicated? :lol:

chris, i've noticed that with you since you showed me how to properly make LED tubes lol

I had a friend here that made a false floor for his car, and all he did was make a template of the trunk floor, and cut out two pieces, then boxed them in and put a hinged lid on it with two pad locks on the front. The whole thing was carpeted and the amps and brains of his system were mounte in there. The best part is that he still had access to the spare tire, by taking out the box and removing the power and signal wires. When you looked in the car it just looked like there was a box in there. I however don't have the time on patiences to tackle a project like that. I dont' think you made it more complicated but its hard to come up with something that works and is asthetically pleasing as well.

yeah.... hence.... more complicated. :lol: i COULD just put two pieces of wood in there, move the amps, run the wire and put in the speakers. but it'd look "noob-ish" and that'd make me want to cry.

Ha Ha Ha! Yeah you got a point about that. You could even add a bigger piece of wood to the back of the speaker box and attach them that way.....when its all said and done its what ever works for you that is the best. Did you get crossovers and stuff with those speakers and where are you going mount those?

yes, crossovers are in the box (they are in the top right of the pics) i'm putting one under each seat. buring the wiring under the carpet. i've ran wires through the door rubber hosing (between door and frame) before, and i'd rather do that then have the xover rust up/short inside the door....

This is sort of what I'm talking about cherry, of course this would be made in shape of our trunk and be carpeted so that it blends in with the rest of the trunk, and hinge up when you need to work on it. This isn't my friends though just one I found on the internet.

looks good... but its a little too fancy. i'm trying to go for the effect of making it look completely stock, and still keep a decent amount of space. as it stands, the sides are just wasted space anyway (near the wheel wells)

but who knows... i might end up going that way anyway.


i'd LIKE to get it to all fit into my spare compartment, since i don't even have a jack, and my subs are sitting on part of it. (i get a flat, and i gotta call someone) but i think my amps are too big to fit down in there....

Oh well I didn't know that you weren't using your spare tire. Hell there are a few more options available then, maybe just making a floor for the bottom of it then simply mounting the amps and stuff in there. If I didn't have these rims thats the way I would go, but due to the high possibility of a tire going bad then I have to have that. The box above would still give you space cause the box would sit on top of it and the whole thing it self wouldn't be much taller then the amps..just enough room for air flow and running cables, and would fill the bottom of the trunk up looking like the floor...at least thats the theory...lol. All those lights and plexi aren't necessary just what this guy chose to do.

thats the thing.... i don't think the amps will fit in the spare-hole. they are each about 15-17" wide...

i'll have to look and find out. :glare:

Alright but in those you have alot of vertical real estate if you know what I mean, so you could stack them not exactly together but sometimes here I have to stack radios because there isn't enough space. I'll draw it up and post it tonight to give you an idea. If it were my project I would cut out a single piece of wood to fit in the bottom, and attach that to the trunk, and if I were concerned about drilling or screwing into the trunk then I would cout it so that it was very snug at the bottom, then I would mount one amp to the wood then make bracket out of two piece's of metal strap that attach to the wood but lifts above the other amp and mount to the bracket.

again, i'm not entirely sure, cuz the amps are rather tall as well.... probably around 10" (both amps are HUGE. :lol: ) i gotta go out and measure the spare-hole

i just got some cheap mdf board, so that'll be easy... i just need to find out HOW/WHERE. lol

and i might throw some cathodes in there just for fun, since have 2 pairs sitting in my room....

Yeah I dont know off the top of my head either but I will look as well when I do my headlights either this afternoon or tomorrow. Damn Cherry LOL what do you got DJ amps:lol:. They may not fit in there.

this page has pics of the amp i'm putting in...
http://miami.craigslist.org/pts/619746262.html

and the sub amp...
http://www.tvsdepot.com/image.php?id=39536&s=3
dimensions: 11.5"W x 2.3"H x 17"L

the first is about the same size as the 2nd... yes... they are big. :lol:

Wow they are big :lol: That first one looks like alot of heat sink, cant really make out the size of the second one but I'll take your word on it. I think they will fit! The second one is about the size of my Kenwood excelon as far as the foot print is concerned, and I know I can fit that one in there.

well if yours fits, i guess i could just make a 2 tier box type support, and put a cpu fan or two in there for ventilation...

hmm... that'll save space, and time....

and the first is optimus. company is dead (technically) its an old radioshack brand, actually made by pioneer for them. its UNDERRATED at 400W. actually puts out near 500. which is just unheard of in todays terms.

Well good luck with that cant wait to see pics.