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Turbo Manifold.
Where can I get a Turbo Manifold for the 3400... I've googled and searched and can't find one. I know members have sold them on here but those are for the inline 4 / 2.4 or 2.2. I need one for the V6
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Custom only.
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UGH! How much will that run me?
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Depends on the place, a place around here like Auto Addictions does this kind of thing all day. You could make your own if you wanted, get some exhaust flanges, weld on some tubing making sure it's pretty much equal length tubing and have it go to a collector and a turbo flange and stuff. I'm going to custom weld a new intake manifold for the MP62 supercharger, but nearly all shops that can do fab work will do this for *wild stab* $400-700? Not sure really, you'd have to ask around.
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Ahh k thanks, I could prob do it, my friend has some mad welding skills.
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BlackJack made his own, AFAIK.
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I think I saw a set of flanges on gagt I will see if I can find it again for you
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That would be awesome, thats a lot!
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I'm gonna say $1000 plus is a better estimate most good welding shops will charge you $80-$125 an hour...... |
That one guy from GAGT just sold his two flanges to Cliff for $50 shipped. :/
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just 3400 exhaust flanges? big deal probably that same guy who on 60degreev6 has been selling them for 6 months at that price. I have 3 sets........
it is everything else that is expensive trust me. I can weld but not that great so I just tack and have the local shop finish weld it for me and trust me it ain't cheap......... |
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yep they are gone |
Or, you could just buy my car. ;) I have a bit of a built engine... Just swap the engine and transmission, and your done. Move the stock tranny and engine into the Grand Am, and sell it ;) And yes, you would be able to beat blackjack.
Speaking of which, I have not heard anything from him lately. Did he deploy? |
Welll Johnson... what is wrong with your car..../How many miles?
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Nothing. I need to finish putting the engine back together. Only the crank is in the block with the mains torqued down. Will do some assembly this weekend actually. Then, just gotta drop in the engine and it is good to go. ;)
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Oh, and it has 73,000 miles, but, do you think that even applies? See the gallery on my web site and form your own opinion:
http://groomlakelabs.com/ |
I looked at all of them when you first posted, that car is awesome, what about the tranny though, is it just a beefed up automatic :-/
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Yes. And it holds all the torque the engine puts out just fine. 345wtq prior to all the engine enhancements after the original turbo setup. I really am curious to see what the torque is now at 15PSI. The tranny is heavily beefed up (as much as a 45e can be), and has a higher stall Precision converter.
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Awesome... what was the last dyno numbers if you remember? I'm thinking about this car lol...
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It was 289whp/345wtq prior to the last engine rebuild. That was on ~7PSI. After the rebuild, I was pushing 15 PSI.
At Pontiac Nationals in 2006, after the rebuild, I pulled the 13.4 1/4 mile on bad detonation, which resulted in the rod bearings loosing their crush. This resulted in the reaming of the #5 rod journal removing ~.006" of material and bending the crank ~.009" . We magnafluxed the crank checking for cracks, bent back in to spec, magnafluxed again, then turned the crank removing .010 from all the journals. (work was performed by WRP). Now the crank is in, and pistons and rods are about to go in with oversize Clevite bearings. All of this simply because I plumbed the Walbro fuel pump and assumed the little port on the pump was a high pressure line. It is actually a pressure relief. So it was not feeding the venturi puump drawing fuel into the pump assembly. So the 65# mototron injectors was starving the fuel pump... I pretty much ran out of fuel on the track, leading to BANG, BANG, BANG! A stock engine would have yielded a few popped pistons ;) |
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Is that a condition for the sale? :lol: I'm thinking anybody that wants to buy your car better put a deposit on it now. After you get it back together and drive it, with the bugs worked out, you may not want to sell it. |
Tempting, but not likely. Just into too many things right now, and it has been a shame that I got burnt out on it. It is kinda cool to be working on it again tho ;)
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Hey dude , hmm what was the problem with the Walbro fuelpump? Because hmm did the same as you did with mine. |
You need the fuel line tap with the small nipple to feed the venturi pump. On the Walbro, the small nipple on the top of the pump is a pressure release, not a high pressure line. Install the tap in the middle of the main fuel line from the pump to the pump assembly (where the corrugated hose is now) using the 5/16" fuel line that comes with the nipple. This is in the 3800 specific Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump kit by ZZP. This was updated in my gallery How-To:
http://groomlakelabs.com/index.php?q...g2_itemId=1125 Below is a pic of the nipple, clamps, and 5/16" fuel line: |
Hmm hey any pics of installing this?
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Hmm and one more question, what do you do, with the small opening on the pump? because when I bought mine it was closed, and we opened it and installed the small nipple from the stoch pump.
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I would use a piece of tubing (attach to the nipple you installed on the walbro) and redirect the open end to the bottom of the assembly. That way if it is functional, and it is a pressure relief, it is simply pumping the blow off into the bottom of the pump assembly. Make sense?
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http://www.intense-racing.com/walbroinstall.shtml
Check this out they didn't use the T fitting. They just installed it the way I installed it |
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Cool, now read: https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_...les1.php?id=40 |
Okies, hmm one question, what did you do with the fitting that you put on the walbro pump the brass thing that U and me installed on the walbro pump? Do you need to close it, remove it,.....???
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Refer to post #27 in this thread... |
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