Cruise control on toggle switches
 

the steering wheel I got never made it into the mustang so on the alero it will go. Has anyone screwed with enabling the cruise to work with a toggle/push button switch set up? I have schematics and can get the resistance values from the switches when I pull them out but im worried if i get something wrong im going to end up with lighting issues the cruise control module also deals with. imput anyone?
edit- I just realized this is not in the right section. my apologizes, was on the road for 12 hours getting the car and this was bugging me the whole way.

And when do we get to see your new ride

its a secret until I get few things done :p sssssshhhhhhhhhhhh

Wait, pause...

You finally found a 5 speed Eco?

Don't wreck it now... those things are hard to find! I still want one for myself in Grand Am or Alero form... Damn I miss my car sometimes.

Not that hard if you travel... my current favorite is in an atlanta suburb and it is actually super rare...power windows, locks, and a sunroof
On topic of this thread, while not completely sure, why...I dont think there are many aftermarket steering wheels that would look good and i really dont see the switches looking good

EDIT: Car in georgia
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/ctd/4407486087.html

I already have it so its going on regardless. Im thinking about seeing how I can mount the factor set up on it, shouldnt be to bad. And yes, I have a 5sp eco coupe finally. I have the original sales papers for it as well, got the disk brakes on the rear already and trac control. Needless to say, im loving it! :cool:

tbh, the push button think for activating the crusie control isnt that hard in it self. As the OE switch cluster works the same.

the other issue is the setting, up / down and resume action. But well, I'd have to have a look at the schematics.

EDIT: took a quick peek, and yes. Take your source voltage from the BCM, and just use switches to power what u want. No big deal, especially as ur already working with an Alero BCM and PCM (hence correct wire colors and locations)

I ended up just mounting the factory switched onto the aftermarket hub. Running the wires back up the column and doing all that was going to much for my back right now so it works as is.
FOR ANYONE COMING ACROSS THIS- its not worth the hassle! Although the wheel alone really spices up the interior the amount of work required is..just awful. Once you get the specialty bits and get the air bag out even with a steering wheel puller the sob would not come off and I had to resort to hacking to pieces. Then came mounting the hub for the new wheel, had to do all kinds of drilling and dremeling to get it on there and the cruise wires ran through it. Once I got the switches mounted, they work and are in there solid but just dont quite fit the curvature. Its not bad by any means and since I already had the stuff I'm glad I went ahead and did it. I would defiantly call the procedure 'advanced' its a 7-8 hour job to get it buttoned up and looking alright. oh, and you loose your horn. I'm sure it can be wired up to work but I didnt really care so I didnt bother screwing with it.

So you can see what I'm talking about, the one pic is just the hub and base of the quick release. Didnt turn out to bad I like to think.

Wtf.... now I want an aftermarket steering wheel. Where is the hub from and sht??? Text me details!

will do. Beat ya to it though!!! :coolio:

And I beat you to everything else ;)

don't crash
- airbag engineer

I've been trying my best to watch out for those telephone poles. but ya, no airbag and no horn because of the quick release, oh well..

Yeah id miss my horn. Lol im pretty content with my stock wheel though.

just get an air tank and hook up a train horn... beats the stock horn any day!!

Tru. But more weight

exactly. this thing about as light as it gets for alero's. coupe, manual windows, manual trans... The gear ratio helps a ton to but its defiantly quicker on its feet then my old one.

Well, just get a simple pos/neg button and wire that up to your horn. Put it somewhere close to the touch.

On a more serious note, is your state an inspection state? Because you can fail inspection if they see that steering wheel.

fortunately it is not.

you got the red one that was on auto trader didn't you...if so not a bad starting point

Not at all. Only a little rust on the drivers quarter panel. Pretty darn clean overall. Got the disk brakes on the rear and trac control, I didnt want the weight of power windows anyway since its a coupe. All it needs is the sunroof which will be a factory install later in life. It fit what I was looking for perfectly, they took the mustang and gave me the car and $300 cash. I got lucky and when I got back found the original sales papers in the leather cover of the manual. Awesome to have with it, I've already gotten a lot of "they made these with a manual?" I will have it for a long time to come, fell in love with darn thing all over again.

Cant complain on that deal...i just noticed that it wasnt listed anymore when i was doing my search ...there are a decent amount out there if you look in the right place, the harder part is finding them with lower miles and in good condition

X2. with the ecotec 180k is nothing. I ended up driving about 6 hours one way but it was worth it. That was good as is it was ever going to get without going cross country pretty much. and they took the mustang off my hands, I was very happy to be rid of it.

That's not bad at all... except I couldn't see myself trading my Camaro for an Alero. Interesting how that worked out for you though, not only did you get the car you wanted, but you basically got the money to register it.

$15 for title $50 for plates switched to the alero. Got the few little things it needed fixed here and there and had enough to order the intake and buy Nate's spoiler. Worked out perfectly. The mustang was nice for what it was but if I'm only going to be getting 19mpgs I wanted power to show for it, it just couldnt deliver. It was starting to showing its signs I was going to be Fixing Or Repairing Daily very soon. not to mention I dont have a pond in the back of the car every time it rains. gas mileage, cheaper parts, overall just a better car and I actually like it. Very happy that thing popped up when it did.

There are currently 3 i am looking at with one in canton, ga, one in columbus, Oh, and one up by detroit...2 are 4 door, 1 is coupe, 1of the 4doors is fully loaded...max mileage is 130k and max price is 3k and they all three look to be in great condition

I must admit for an aftermarket steering wheel that one actually looks pretty nice. Not bad man not bad at all.

Thank ya. I plan to re-visit it sometime soon. I just took out the airbag light for now but its always still dinging at me when I start up. Should be able to trick it by placing a 2.8ohm resistance across the airbag wires to simulate the circuit, right now it thinks the airbag has been deployed. I'm also going to move the cruise on/off button inside the hub (just leave it on) and more the set/cancel/resume buttons to the center on top for easier access and mount them more flush.

No problem man and it sounds like you already got some plans for it. I can't wait to see the finished result once you get it all taken care of.

You should make a how to. I would want to do this to my 94 Cutlass.

for the airbag trick just get an ohm meter and measure across your airbag. The just put a resistor of a close value in there to simulate it. The hardest part is really just getting the factory wheel off. I rented a steering wheel puller and used it in combination with a hammer and hardly got an progress. once it was off I dremeled down the stud and drilled out the hub for a good fit. Hammer it on then bolt on. I also had to drill out the hole to run cruise wires through, bundle that all up in the hub. I revisited and drilled holes through the resume/cancel/set buttons and used zip ties to secure it to the hub and accommodate for the curvature. Then the new steering wheel or quick release in my case bolts right on the hub. when I revisited I just put the on/off button inside the hub, just kept it 'on' and moved the others for better access. I may sometime, to get good pictures I would have to tear into it.