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so i have noticed a creaking noise when i slowly release the brakes. never noticed it before and i think its the front driver's side caliper. any other ideas?
btw, my brakes are on their last leg. think it will go away when i change them? |
its ur caliper
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Same thing happened to mine..then i changed them and it went away for a while then came back..i cleaned them up and it went away again. its a common problem. i think when they get really dirty they start making creaking noises. but yeah you should definatly change them if they're almost shot and the noise will go away after that.
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Hmm I'm getting that too,
just a creak when I am stopped but push the brake a little more, and release it. It sounds like metal on metal. I'll change my brake pads, but I have a sneaking suspicion that its the caliper piston. |
Everyone has, or will have this issue. I am going to take mine in for this repair as soon as I get time. Its only a noise and will NOT affect your brakes.
Here is the TSB: Brake Noise/Creak During Slow Speed Braking (Lubricate Brake Caliper) #04-05-23-004 - (Sep 20, 2004) 1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu 2004 Chevrolet Malibu Classic 1999-2004 Oldsmobile Alero 1999-2004 Pontiac Grand Am Condition Some customers may comment on a creak type noise occurring when applying the brakes. It is usually heard only during slow speed brake maneuvers. If this condition exists, it should be able to be duplicated when the vehicle is not moving by depressing the brake and listening for the noise from the wheel-well/caliper area. Cause This condition may be caused by a caliper piston to seal interface issue during brake apply. If the caliper is removed and the piston is pushed back, the noise may be eliminated. This is usually only a temporary fix. Correction DO NOT REPLACE CALIPER. To repair this condition, lubricate the entire circumference of the seal at the caliper piston interface using Kluber Fluid and the following procedure: Remove the wheel and reinstall two lug nuts. This will hold the rotor to the bearing surface so debris does not fall between the surfaces and cause lateral runout (LRO). Remove the bottom bolt from the caliper assembly without disturbing the hydraulic system. Swing the caliper assembly up so the caliper assembly is facing upward. Thoroughly clean the piston boot with GM approved Brake Clean. Pay particular attention to the area where the boot interfaces with the piston. Using compressed air, dry the piston/boot area. Remove the cap from the tip of the bottle and carefully insert the tip, P/N 89022161, between the boot and piston, inward of the piston boot groove. From the top side of the piston (reference diagram), inject the lubricant. With the caliper in the tilted position, the lubricant will flow down and work its way around the entire circumference of the seal. Let the caliper body assembly remain in this position for a minimum of 2 minutes to allow for the fluid to completely work its way around the seal. Push the piston into the seal to ensure the lubricant is on both the piston and seal surface. Important Excessive fluid could appear as a failure and lead to a comeback. To prevent unnecessary future repairs, it is important to only use one bottle per side and make sure excess fluid is wiped away. Wipe away any excessive fluid. Reassemble the caliper to the vehicle. Tighten Tighten the caliper bolts to 31N·m(23 lb ft). Repeat steps 1- 9 on the opposite side of the vehicle, if necessary. Pump the brake pedal to push the caliper piston back into place. Reinstall the wheel and test drive the vehicle to verify repair. Parts Information Part Number Description 89022161 Service Kit -- Kluber Fluid Important The service kit will consist of a "one--time use only" bottle which will service one caliper. Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: Labor Operation Description Labor Time H9702 Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (One Side) 0.3 hr H9703 Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (Both Sides) 0.6 hr GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION |
^^^thanks, thats some good info
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My brakes have been doing that for over a year, my pads are still good so I figured everything was ok. Can't be that serious if they're only paying .6 for it lol, I'll worry about it when it's time to do my brakes.
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Yeah, mine were doing if before I replaced the rotors and pads, and they started about 3k after the new pads and rotors. So I am taking it in while I have 6k left on the GM warranty.
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Same thing here, it started a while back, at first it would only creak when the car was cold then when the brakes would heat up it would go away. Now it dose it all the time. Good to know what needs to be fix so the shop knows what to do.
Good Info :thumbsup: |
Would assembly lube or such work, if you can't get ahold of the kubler stuff?
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thats what I was wondering. I had almost rather do it myself then to let the dealer do it. I just put brakes and rotors on my car 3k miles ago. I wish I would have known this fix then. <_<
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:huh: Mine is doing it too. Starts the creak noise right before I come to a complete stop. I thought it was a strut bearing on the tops of the struts or something in the suspension somewhere. Has anyone tried the Tech Bulletin with success?
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Well, I took mine to the dealer today to have some stuff done, and I told them I wanted this done also. They told me these "kits" are on back order and would not be in until the end of the month or Dec. So LOTS of people must be wanting this done. But I am wondering if some WD-40 would do the same. I mean its just lube.
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i changed my front brakes today and no more creaking. i had almost forgotten what its like to come to a smooth stop. sooo much better. i replaced the stock poop with duralast rotors (2 year warranty) and bendix ceramic pads. i might take a look at the rears tomorrow, i ran out of time at the shop today. the hardest part by far was getting the lugs off. the damn dealership must have used like 200 psi when they put them on. the air at the shop only went up to 140 and wouldnt budge em. had to do them by hand. i even broke the "breaker bar" i was using, then they gave me the heavy duty breaker bar and i was able to get em off. i thought for sure i was going to break the bolts but luckily none of them did. i called the dealership and bitched em out about it.
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:( Hmmmm. I just turned my rotors and the creaking is still there. Pads are the ceramics and still had a fair amount left on them. I ordered the special oil in the TSB that should be here in a couple of weeks. We'll see.
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When my brakes were about gone they were squealing even when I wasn't braking, The inside pads on both sides were basically gone and the outside pads were like new.
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^^^thats because the inside pad has the wear indicator on it.
i forgot to mention that when i broke that breaker bar trying to get the lugs off, i drilled myself in the knee with it tonya harding style. i gotta nice bump right below the knee cap <_< |
^^^ :lol:
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Well the lube is in and I am taking my car in on Monday to have this repair done. THANK GOD. My car is starting to sound like a TOTAL POS as I am coming to a stop or going through a drive thru. The "creaking" has gotten MUCH worse over the last week. I guess it could be because of the cold weather. I hope this special lube corrects the problem. <_<
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I bought the lube at around $5 per what looks like less than an ounce and it came in today. I plan to try and put it in the calipers this weekend. Will post the results. :thumbsup:
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:thumbsup: Got the lube and it worked!!!!! YIPPIE!!!!!!!!! No more creaking at least for now.
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Holy cow, i've had this problem for a while now but didn't have any idea what was causing it till i read this thread just now. Excellent info guys thanks.
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And it's soooo simple to do!! You get a small bottle from GM with what appears to be less than an ounce in each but it's enough. Cost me like $5 per bottle. Small price to get rid of the annoyance! I would have NEVER thought it was the piston in the caliper that was causing that noise!!!!!!! ;)
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I took mine to the dealer and had them do it, but 2 days after I took it I heard the noise again when going to the ATM. I don't even know if the crappy dealer knew what they were doing. I showed them the tsb, but they showed no interest in it. So this weekend when I rotate my tires, I am going to spray some lube of my own around the piston. I am sick of the noise....
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:huh: Hmmm. Well that sux! Mine is still noise free. It worked on mine.
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I love this forum.. i really do.. and thanks to all who have descriptive thread names and not just 'need help'... :thumbsup:
yes i have this exact same problem.. and hence why im here -- i have the loud arse creaking noise.. but when the car is coming to the slow stop, i feel a pulsating in the brake pedal that correspondes to the clicks i hear outside.. so i feel a small pulse at the same time i hear the click.. did anyone else feel the pulsing too? is this related to this caliper crap? if it wasn't winter here and since i dun have a garage.. guess i have to wait till spring to fix this.. cuz i hate it when the dealership touches my car.. i think they're all a bunch of morons... thx. |
I bet you have the famous rotor warp along with your claipers that need lube. As the pad moves along the warped rotors, it then causes the piston to push in and out which will cause the Caliper creak and the pulsation. Have you ever had your stock rotors and pads changed?
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im now on raybestos rotors and ceramix (napa) ceramic brake pads... hmm so u think my rotors cud be warped huh.. interesting....... |
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im now on raybestos rotors and ceramix (napa) ceramic brake pads... hmm so u think my rotors cud be warped huh.. interesting....... [/b][/quote] They may be if you are getting the pulsation. How long have you had your current brake setup? I have an 03 and I have had 3 sets of Rotors myself. This last set I got at Napa and put on myself. I just hope they last. |
I'd take the rotors off and have them turned if you have several thousand miles on them. It's cheap so it certainly can't hurt. Have the pads sanded flat, too! Unless it is a driving snow you can do it even in the cold. It is sooo easy and only two bolts to roll the caliper back. Only have to really take the bottom one out and just loosen the top one. You prolly already knew that. The lube part is just as easy. It comes in a small plastic bottle and while the caliper is rotated up, you just very carefully peel the rubber seal that is around the outside of the piston back and insert the tip of the plastic bottle and let it go from the top. It'll make its way around the piston to the bottom in like 2-3 minutes and then you just put it back together and walla! You're done. No more pulsating and no more creaking. Good luck dude! :thumbsup:
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just got rid of my creaking breaks, got some WD-40 to clean the rust, took a high water pressure hose to the caliper and then added some lube. NO MORE CREAKING! YEAY!!!
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i installed the new rotors and cermamic pads in April of this year.. they shouldn't be warping already right?!?! ive been though many sets of front pads/rotors -- but still on my original set (2000) of rears (is that normal?)
i have a free 'brake inspection' at my dealership that im going to use tomarrow.. lets see what those monkeys say... next weekend is supposed to be 12 degrees here in toronto (54 deg F).. yeah weather up here is retarded.. so i'll clean/lube the caliper then :) |
I have had this problem and do again. The 1st time I started to hear it the dealler said it was normal. Funny i didn't here it when it was new. It took me three dealerships and a big pain in the ass to find out the rotors were warped. That was around 30.000km. They machined the front rotors and changed the pads due to premature ware. They said the backs were fine. The funny thing is, They said that this repair is covered just once. Even thought I have the extended warrenty. Now at 38,000km, the noise is back. Lets do the math shall we. I may have to pay to fix the rotors 2 times before the warrenty runs out.
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That TSB on the lube is the fix. So easy to do too. I'm still having no noise since I did it several thousand miles ago. :thumbsup:
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i had the dealership do a brake inspection while i was getting an oil change (only cuz the inspection was free - i had a coupon).. and noise is gone... i'm sure it will come back.. but if it comes back in the spring/summer/fall i can fix it myself.. winter.. too damn cold.. hehehe
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This may be a whole other problem, but the brakes were creaking on my car,and I had someone press the brake while I watched the caliper, and the caliper itself actually flexed. I repalced the calipers, and the creaking is gone, and most of all, no flexing!!!!
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Glad its gone (for now). Keep in mind the TSB on the lube though if it comes back. Way cheaper than replacing everything. :thumbsup:
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