Well, I decided this last week to insulate the inside of my car. I had read a writeup on the internet about it and ran out saturday and bought some of my own to give it a try. Its a duct vent insulation but has the same qualities as the more expensive sound damping material. Just cheaper. Anyhow, I found out that it is a lot easier to look at pictures and imagine doing it than doing it yourself. :lol: Took about 5 hours to do the trunk. I plan on doing the interior but thats gonna be a while down the road. I'm still off work with my broken toe, so it gives me a lot of time to work on my car. which is nice because this next week I'll be starting the custom enclosure in the spare tire well. I'll post pictures of that later this week. Anyhow, heres the pictures from this weekend.

The trunk empty and clean. All ready to go!









And here it is after 5 hours of work. Lookin good!






And heres the way the trunk looks now. Not gonna stay like this for long.




(Jumper cables in winter... GREAT IDEA!! I don't need it, but you have no idea how many cars I end up jumping.)



I started on the trunk, but got tired and figured I'd do it this week sometime. Heres where it sits for now.

looks nice and clean, good job. i should probably do something like that too. the dynomat on the underside of my trunklid isnt really working too well. <_<

yea, whats that duct insulation marketed as and where can you get it?

I picked it up at Lowes. Its called Frost King. It comes in a roll 15'x 1'. Cost me like $15 a roll. I bought 4 rolls and i have almost 2 rolls left.

sounds good, i may rip the whole interior of the car out and do the entire inside

so far im sold on this....but the true test comes when u test the sub in your trunk...let us know if you notice a difference in quality of sound, if theres less rattling, etc....

Did you encounter wetness in the spare tire well?

Well, I had the chance to test it tonight. I hear a lot less rattling in the trunk, and a lot more pressure inside. Although I think things are starting to rattle a bit more inside. I may be forced to do the inside sooner than I had planned. Anyhow, eag182, I didn't notice any wetness in the trunk. I'm going to start my custom enclosure tommorow, so I should have pics of that up later tommorow night.

wow, i was personally thinking of dynomatting my trunk (and kicking myself due to cost) but i think you just changed my mind. :lol: effective and cheap. i like it!

What I want to know is how the hell did you get your self in the trunk. :lol: :lol:

i'm 6'5 and i could sleep (almost) comfortably in my trunk... it's bigger than you think.

I'm 5'8" and I was able to crawl all over inside the trunk without any problems. Not to mention I was able to do all of this with a broken toe. :lol:

Im 6'1" 225 and just seeing you in that trunk makes me feel cloisterphobic.(spelling?) :unsure:

i've been locked in a trunk smaller then ours... :lol: damn older brother....

I was just wondering if anyone has done this to the entire car? And if you have do you think it was worth it? Another question is whether or not you think this would quiet down my slp exhaust noise on the inside. I drive back and forth to school (which is mostly highway driving) a lot and as much as i love the sound on the outside, the inside is getting a little annoying.

Thanks

hey man, off topic but how hard does that set up hit.....im thinkin about changing my set up to that exact 15......how are the lows? let me know what you think and how many watts rms you got powering it.........thanks

I've had my sub for about 2 years now and I'm still in love with it. Mostly because I'm not throwing insane amounts of power to it so I can adjust it between sound quality when I want and earth shaking bass when I feel like that. Most of thats done through my pioneer headunit but the sub is the 15" Kicker CompVR powered by a Kicker KS 400.1.

how do you get that stuff to stick and what not?? its lookin like i might handle this, this weekend.......seeing as how i want that sub in a couple months......i want to lose some trunk weight and figure one 15 instead of my 2 10's will shave some weight......and save some space too.....

Nice work, I didnt notice any rattle noise from the under side of my trunk, so I did not do that. All the rattle that I experience came from the deck lid, and the rear panel on the trunk that the license plate goes on. I took that thing off and put hushmat behind everything including the lights. The top of the trunk lid still has a little rattle, but its due to the pressure from 3 1000 watt amps and 3 10's in a big f***ing box! I will be sealing off the front of my box so that no air pressure gets in the trunk. THe front doors are going to be a BITCH to put material on, I'm not looking forward to it :( GJ Though.

Just noticed...when reffering to sound you mean sound damping. The guy at Gagt would be mad.

yo Schimmel03 what material is that? cuz i looked it up and it was foam, but ill take your word for it

from frostking.com

Insulating heating and air conditioning ducts improves efficiency as it reduces vibration and noise

from frostking.com

Insulating heating and air conditioning ducts improves efficiency as it reduces vibration and noise [/b][/quote]
You got it. I picked it up at Lowes. I check Menards and Home Depot as they were closest to me, but the only one who carried it was Lowes. Its in the window and door insulation Isle. Its by frost king and comes in rolls 15'x 1'. Not sure what the item number is, but I can find it later if you want.

does it have a fiberglass material behind it. i went and looked at lowes the other day for this stuff and the only one i found was a shiny material with some sort of fiberglass padding on the back. i figured it could work but was wondering if that was the right stuff.

I fell asleep in a Neon trunk before. Passed out same difference...they gave me a bed pillow so its all good.


Awesome work Schimmel :thumbsup:

No, its not a fiberglass material behind it. Its more like a rubbery grey padding. I'll get the item number next time I get the chance.

Please do ! :) Kudos to you for origionality in doing a mod in a cost-effective way, excellent Idea Schimmel, thanks for sharing. :thumbsup: B)

yeah that works. i wanna go ahead and start getting some work done on the car and the cheaper i can get it done, the better.

Hey everyone. Sorry for taking so long on the reply to this, but I've been getting moved into my new place, so I didn't want to go digging through all the boxes looking for the stuff. Anyhow, the part number is FV516. Its made by Frost King. Let me know if you guys need anymore help.

How did you get it to stick? I'm not familiar with the insulation so is one side adhesive or did you just tape it and how hard would you say the whole process is?

Thanks for the help and great job!

I would not tape insulation. I would silicon or hot glue. Prefer silicone for its sealing ability as well.

It has adhesive on one side of it. I found though that I had troubles getting it to stay stuck in some curves so I wound up using actual aluminum ducting tape. Its like regular duct tape only its actually an aluminum sheet. The whole process took about 5 hours and I'd rank it at about a 6 or 7, because you have to have patience. It is a SLOW process.

^how would you compare it to dynamat. If you can make that comparison...

you try heating it up? thats what helps dynamat stick

/\ Never tried that, but I suppose it probably could have worked. It has about the same qualities of dynamat, but its not as thick as dynamat. I never tried dynamat, but this stuff really cut out on the exterior noise and stopped A LOT of the trunk rattle. I still get little vibrations, but not much.

do you know the thickness? i just ordered some Edead, thats 45mm thick, but i got 60 sq so i can double it up where needed. they made a 70mm one, but this ended up being a better deal, it was $70 after shipping costs.

you might want to use a heat gun, or a powerful hairdryer. if it doesn't bond airtight to the metal, its not effective, so it may not be doing anything in the areas you had to tape it down

otherwise looks good, im doing my trunk to, to make the exhaust a little quiter and help seal up the trunk for the subs since there free-air mounted in the back dash.

45mm thick? 70mm thick?!>!! 45mm=1 3/4" thick. 70mm=2 3/4" thick.....I would say i am gonna use the thermwell based on cost and thickness. I dont need 2 inches of padding in my car.

whoops........LOL 45mils is what i meant

im not sure how thick "mils" are, but its not abnormally thick

http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=9&...Gallery&cur=USD

that has some pics of it installed, im going to do the trunk floor and trunk walls to get rid of alot of exhaust drone (the drone isn't bad, but i can tell its comming only from that corner of the car)

that sites pretty good for info about where to put it too

whoops........LOL 45mils is what i meant

im not sure how thick "mils" are, but its not abnormally thick

http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=9&...Gallery&cur=USD

that has some pics of it installed, im going to do the trunk floor and trunk walls to get rid of alot of exhaust drone (the drone isn't bad, but i can tell its comming only from that corner of the car)

that sites pretty good for info about where to put it too
[/b][/quote]

Ahhh i see...I was saying...now 45 mil = 1.143 millimeter
70 mil = 1.778 millimeter

i looked up dynamat as a comparison, dynamat extreme is 1.7millmeters thick, so its 70mil. i could have gotten 70 mill from this place, but getting more 45mil ended up being cheaper. and this way i can use the 45mil everywhere, and double up in key area's.

dynamat is way overpriced. i used it when i could get 12 sq for 33 (xtreme), working at best buy, but thats still 2x more expensive than this