Wheel Bearing Questions...
 

Ok, so me and a guy i work with were talking about car repairs. Hes worked on damn near every car in existance, so hes pretty well versed. I brought up the fact that my bearings died not too long ago, and had to fork over 550 in repairs, since i'm not exactly sure how to do it myself, and didn't have time, due to school. he just shook his head and laughed. then asked...

Do you know why your bearings died? This is where my ears perked up since my mechanic couldn't answer the question.

Apparently, aleros have a bad grounding system, which causes a small amount of current to arch off the bearing, inside the assembly. after enough of this, they fuse (or something similar)

He said it wouldn't happen nearly as often (if at all) if I improved the engine to body ground, Battery to engine ground, and Battery to Body. Does this make sense to anyone else? And if so, why has it not been mentioned before? seems to be a really easy fix for a rather costly repair.


Obviously the battery to body is easy to find, its right next to the batt, but where are the other two? Would the Grounding upgrade kit available, cover all the grounds mentioned?

Bump... no-one has thoughts/comments about this?? seem like a plausible solution to a very common problem?

seems very plausible, would be interesting to verify. Anyone?

I am not sure about the bad ground causing rust. But! I have seen wheel bearings welded solid because the dumdass mechanic clamped the ground to the spindle and was welding on the hub. Current will definetley pass across the bearings.

i have replaced around 4 wheel hubs and the bearings did not go out due to rust but due to what appeared to be grease break down and the balls lost lubrication.

$550 to replace wheel hub.....................damn you got it dry.

i didn't mean for this to sound like a rust issue... more like small amounts of current sparking inside the assembly. Probably causing the grease to breakdown and the bearings to sieze...

550 is a lot I got a quote today for 250 out the door

bump, this thread seems very interesting and plausible

I just replaced front right at 220 out the door. Mechanic gave no reasoning as to why it happened other than "these cars are known for it"

I'd really like to see someone test this. Although, you'd probably need some electrical know-how and a shop to do it. If anyone has this, and is planning on doing the grounding upgrade, throw an ammeter across the bearings w/ the car running (pre ground) then again after. see if there really is a difference...