Rounding up Material (RS/KE/Alarm)
 

Hi, I'm currently rounding up information so I can install a remotestart/keyless entry/alarm I bought myself for christmas. This is my alarm http://aftermarketgeneration.com/cat...products_id=32
and right now I'm reading how to's and such from
http://www.drdetailshop.com/STARTINSTALL.html
http://members.tripod.com/~alarmtek/VATS.html
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wir...dsmobile/Alero


(I'm not sure where I got this picture from..so if somebody knows I'd like to give credit where credit is due)

I don't plan on using a bypass module, and will use the relay/resistor method. After the installation I'll post a complete how to with pictures :) but right now I'm looking for information or tips that might be out there. (From what I've read quite a few people have had their RS installed for them; this is just a project I wanted to work on while I am out of work this comming month)

you dont need a relay really. you can just put the correct resistor(s) in and itll be bypassed(permanetly).

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=14886&MakeID=33&link=BULLDOG
is another for wiring info

Also if needed I have DEI Direct Wire...

I bought a bypass module to do my Grandma's Intrigue, cost me a whole $21 total with TAX.

Wire it in, it self learns- problem solved.

thanks for the bulldog security site..quite a lot more info on there with pictures...always a help..
If I break down on the passlock bypass I might buy that module..Thanks

ya, ive got a DEI directwire account also. you can always check www.the12volt.com for more info on shit

hm, I didn't catch that in the first reply..What exactly is DEI directwire? From the looks of the directechs.com site I'm guessing a compilation of diagrams and such...I'm sure I have enough information to get started and going. I have a question though.. If I remove my instrument panel will I lose my mileage? I read that alero's had some problem where a car would turn 30K miles overnight..and one guy's milage went backwards after having it unplugged for some time(on this forum)..

nah, shouldnt have a problem unplugging it. ive done it several times in my car.

One more thing, I started to pull off the a/c connections and the ones that didn't have wires started a hissing noise as if they were under pressure (or at a different pressure). If I take all the plugs from the ac connector I won't hurt anything will I?

Thats just the vaccum, your fine.

As for DirectWire, what I have is a stand alone program, no account.

ah, ya i dont have the stand alone anymore.

and ya thats jus the vacuum lines and all thatll do is make all the vents blow while it's disconnected if you turn on the car.

you have remote start joel???

or just an alarm system

just an alarm. not much point in havin remote start when i dun really drive it in the winter. ive done em in aleros before tho

Hey guys, I'm looking for the tachometer wire and several sites say to look for a purple/white wire in the ecm or engine coil. Where is the engine coil and what does it look like? Or would it be easier to access the ecm. Pictures would be much appreciated.

you can tap into an injector wire also. i dun even bother, i just run voltage on the unit

I'm still looking for a tach wire, my haynes manual says its supposed to be a white wire comming from the pcm, and online sites say to look for a purple white wire at ignition coil..Anyways,

what do you mean you just run voltage on the wire sound extreme??
And the park sensor is supposed to be grounded when in park? (My manual looks like a bad japanese translation to english so I don't really understand it)

grab it right off one of the injectors dude. not hard. it will be the UNcommon color. for example. all the injectors may have a brown wire, so you could grab any nonbrown wire going into one of the injectors

what i meant by running voltage is most remote starts are programmable, which means you can make it check voltage rather than tachometer. if you do this, you dont need to hook tach up.

Since mine isn't programmable, I'll be sure not to get another alarm off ebay then :D Thanks.

Finally finished install. Will get tut for alarm/keyless entry up in a week or two, and remote start tut after that.

Passlock Bypass Procedure
 

I finally found my resistance after many trial and errors. Here's a basic breakdown of what I did. If you accidently let the two yellow wires touch after step 4, you'll need to take the key out of the ignition or you'll get the wrong reading when you start your car. In my 02 alero, once the yellow wires touched, the reading was wrong after I disconnected them and measured them again..

1)Start the car with all wires intact.
2)Cut the yellow wire, and wait for security light to come on.
3)Turn engine off, and take key out.
4)Strip a small portions of insulation from black wire and keyside of yellow wire.
5)Turn engine on.
6)Measure resistance from the keyside of yellow wire to the black wire. (In my case I had to put the positive lead to the black wire and negative lead to yellow wire --must be a zener diode in cylinder)
7)That's the resistance you need to bypass passlock system.

My resistance came out to be 1660 Ohms. I'm using a 2K trimmer potentiometer from Jameco(http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...oductId=696052)

A small tutorial that I promised, may introduce more questions than answers
 

Tools:
Soldering Iron / Solder
Heat shrink tubing
Mini Sub Slider Switch (SPDT type, not momentary type)
3M 558 Connectors or equivalent (T-taps, self-splicing taps, etc)
Fully Insulated Male/Female Quick Disconnects (or equivalent)
Stripping/Crimping Tool
Correct resistors and or variable resistor needed for your passlock system
Some extra wire

Steps:
Remove the center air outlet with two small flat headed screw drivers (1)
Remove Radio and Intrument panel if needed.
Tin the pins on the mini sub slider switch.
Strip and tin 3 short lengths of wire and solder them to the slider switch.
Cut 3 appropriate lengths of heat shrink tubing and shrink over the wires that you just soldered to the slide switch.
Crimp one female connector to one yellow wire and one male connector to the other yellow wire. (With this done you can remove the WHOLE setup and passlock will be in original state).
Tap into the black wire (if using a 558 connector, connect the wire from pin 3 on the slider switch to this connector)
Connect pin 1 of the slide switch to the keyside (ignition switch) of the yellow wire
Connect pin 2 of the slide switch to the resistor you have soldered up or the variable resistor set to the right resistance.
Connect other side of resistor to the other (coming from BCM of car) yellow wire.
Set slide switch in desired postion and stuff behind dash
Replace the center air outlet


Images: Click to enlarge (a lot!)
Do note that I used telcom splices intially, but this wasn't all that reliable so I ditched most of them for quick disconnects