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Disabling Daytime Running Light
I have an '03. I was able to keep the DRL's from coming on by simply pulling out relay #22. Put the pulled relay into dummy slot #17 to the right of relay #9 in case you ever need it. No need to snip any legs off the relay. They ain't cheap.
I have also disabled the feature that turns on the lights when the car is in a darkened area. If anyone is interested how let me know. Having all those lights on when not needed can chop 1-2 mpg off your gas mileage since the alternator has to kick in to juice 'em. Finally, my horn was sounding all the time. It is combined with the airbag & you can't fix just the horn switch without screwing with the bag (a dangerous proposition). I had to come up with a workaround that still gives me horn control although the push button switch is mounted on the turn signal arm. Anybody with the same problem let me know. Keep 'em rollin'. RichB |
Not having your lights on wont increase you fuel consumption, your alt will be spinning just as fast wether there on or not
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wrong-o deniro |
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:wtf2: That's a new one |
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It may be an exagerated statement, but true in theory. It takes energy to make energy. It takes less energy to make less energy. |
and you think the dim DRLs are causing that much drag on your engine? lol
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It all adds up. Personally, I don't mind a miniscule waste of energy to partially power the high beams for the sake of safety... But the fact does remain that it is a drag onto your fuel usage. Add an accessory here, an accessory there, and the energy you use while driving your car can add up to real world differences in terms of mpg. |
now thats what i call gettin anal on MPG lol
j/k guys |
Your lights don't run off the alternator....they run off the battery. Just like everything else electrical in your car.
All the alternator does is charge the battery. |
lol...
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Well the battery isn't limitless, point is the alternator will have to do work at some point to charge/ run the stuff, and the more power it needs to make, the more drag it will be on the engine.. since it's only really spinning one speed, give or take a thousand rpm or so, in order to charge faster/more it ups the mechanical resistance in order to push more juice. Obviously more resistance = lower gas mileage.. maybe not by much but if you want to save as much as you can, it's just another thing to help.
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so this is making me think now... when i installed all my stereo stuff in the car, it blew my alternator... so i had it rebuilt up to 200 amps... how badly is that effecting my gas mileage? or will having that amperage on my amp just mean that it will not have to run as often to power everything? sorry if i sound dumb... just trying to figure it all out!!! thanks!
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if you don't have a stereo system the alternaotr isn't woking harder with the drl's on. if you wanna get technical i guess you might gain .00000000000001 mpg
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There is an ecotec on gassavers.org that is pushing 70 mpg. Reading the logs of this driver, it appears that alternator drag is affecting his mpg from 2-4 mpg. So for a driver that is getting 20 mpg and not 70, a full 1 mpg loss from alternator drag is entirely feasible. Here is the gas useage log from a 70mpg ecotec: http://www.gassavers.org/garage/viewgaslog/649? |
I'd like to know how you turned off the automatic headlight feature please. :)
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That's for true. I was looking into disabling my DRL's at one time so I could have them badass bulbs. I kept burning through housings, I gave up and put silverstars in. But yeah, not to get off the subject. |
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