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Redog Fails state inspection
FIRST TIME EVER I had a car fail inspection.
It failed for front brakes, everything else is fine. Just got my front rotors and pads from Summit today. I bought the Summit brand slotted and x-drilled like I have now, but I bought the Bendix Semi-metallic pads with the blue break in crap on them. I was running "Evelotion" pads, but I figured the Bendix were better although the others were ceramic. I didn't even know for a fact the brakes were going. The rotors didn't warp, there is a little bit of grinding, but very little. Another first, usually bad brakes make the steering wheel shake like a mofo when stopping So it's off the the powder coating shop to get the centers powder coated and then on the car. When I go back to the shop, I just have to pay $2 for the sticker. The car passed everything else, including emissions |
my brakes suck.....when i first got the pads and rotors i didnt bleed them good enough. then i neglected them for a while.....changed the pads and bled them real good. then they were great for a while, now they vibrate again..... i think i effed up the rotors. so ive been thinking about going back to the stock ones in the front for now and putting on the extra brake pads i have laying around. getting those braided lines would be pretty sick too..... but idk
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At least you passed the "difficult" part. I'm sweating out this next emissions test here, though. Got a ton of new mods that are questionable. How do they do the test on the brakes? |
For just a pad and rotor change, you don't have to bleed the system, just push back the caliper piston ;)
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Wha? How do they test your brakes? How does this inspection garbage work? Someone else drives your car and then decides whether or not it passes?
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they physically inspect the rotors, calipers, and pads, atleast in va. |
Thats weird.
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virginias a wierd place my friend. |
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I didn't mean it to you, I mean it was weird that he failed inspection for brakes :lol: Usually inspections are pretty lax |
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Yes in PA too. All 4 wheels MUST be pulled off for inspection. In NJ you can be grinding the caliper on the rotor, but if the car stops in a certain distance, it passes. So I'm driving around with one sticker that says 5/10 and one that says 5/09 |
here they just pick any random 2
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long story short....i accidentally opened the bleeder screw and let some air in the system....never bleeded the system after i did that cause i didnt think any air got in it.....well it did and it took me a while before i bled the brakes....which in turn messed up my brakes in the mean time. lol, i guess that wasnt short.....:lol: |
im so glad we don't have inspections.
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Ken,
Make sure there's nothing else wrong with your brakes while you're at it. I don't recall if I told you or not but in December I noticed a significant drop in gas mileage that was not related to "winter gas". Brought it in at the beginning of Feb when the problem persisted and they couldn't really find anything wrong. They cleaned my intake and did some other maintenance, just in case. Seemed to help a little that next tank, but then the problem got progressively worse. At the same time I noticed my brakes not being as strong as they were in the summer when I first got the slotted rotors and ceramic pads installed. Figured maybe it was the way these wore in. Fast forward to this week. Wednesday I noticed the front left tire pressure WAY down so I refilled her on the way to work. She started vibrating something fierce as I drove and then there was a sick burning smell coming from that FLT and the tire itself was hot. The rotors looked fine. Brought back inot the shop yesterday thinking the hub might have gone bad. Found out that the CALIPER SEAL had "fallen apart" and the brake wasn't immediately releasing on that side and had been getting worse the more I drove. $510 for parts and labor! THEN they find that a seal on the SPOOL VALVE in my steering assembly has been leaking fluid. I was down about 1/2 quart (the assembly holds maybe 2 quarts total) since the last time the shop topped it off last month. Serious failure could occur if the fluid levels got too low and that particular seal couldn't easily be fixed/covered. Unless I wanted to top off the fluid every month, a whole new assembly would have to be put in. Cost? $1,500 (est.)!!! I just spent over $2G on the car in a matter of a few hours. Car should (hopefully) be ready by tomorrow a.m. |
holy christ daytona.......
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I loved getting inspection in VA...the guy would pull the car in test the wipers, lights, and send you on your way for 12 bucks. Only thing is you have to get it done every freakin year, or at least you did when I last had a vehicle in VA.
I moved to Maryland and they nic pick everything. Some places are just rip offs. But once you get it done once you never have to do it again as long as you own the car....that I like allot. |
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you need to get your car inspected here every year also, and its 50$ but still, LIGHTS, WIPERS! HORN! GOOD! 50$ please |
not having inspections here is great
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Same with Massachusetts. You just need to know where to go. I go to this Lebanese's guys shop. He tests the brakes and headlights, and you're on your way. Only thing that sucks is it's every year for $29.99. I usually go a few days after inspection, so I can get the next months sticker. So, 1 year and 1 month for me :D. Yes, I'm a jew. |
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